January 1990




2/1/90

Two days into th 90's and couldn't handle the West Mids any longer! Snowdon, Y Garn, and lots of fresh air.

Colin H with friends Bob & Tony




February 1990




23/2/90

Hi back again after 8mths with Mike Bird to answer question on top of page 42618. No. Well it's blowing a gale and I'm recovering from a hang over by drinking wine (Giz wrote this). Rag pub crawl last night pist as a .... though Captain Pugwash and his merry crew did win the fancy dress prize. Hardly any work done this week, and guess wot I'm hear for the week and it better not rain no what I mean Harry. A college field trip starts on Tuesday and I brown nosed my way onto it. Walking tomorrow training man.


24/2/90

Rain and more rain with some wind. Walked up to Aber Valley today and guess wot we got very very wet. After this we went to Llandudno skiing* though the wind was so strong you needed to assume the position as Bill might say, to even get over the top to start your run. Once back in Llanberis via Bryn Boots (new soles for my plastic boots) and the roundabout on the A55 (he normally walks to Bethesda from his home in Bangor to start work and then home again. He was late this day). Food and drink in the village, and back to the hut for some Buck's Fizz. I must mention the Leicester Uni club who are staying in this weekend. But I won't coz they're really boring.

* NB I have got the ski bug.


25/2/90

Giz and I have been to Holyhead (Rain in Llanberis what's new) and had a look at the cliffs, they are still there and so is the lighthouse. It was, however, dry and sunny between showers making it a pleasant day. Back to the hut via Bangor Autobank and cup of coffee.

I am now in the hut on my own and am quite bored thus I have provided a long entry for the book. P.S. the forecast is for more rain and gales for the rest of the week. I should have gone back south with Giz (Karen) and stayed dry and warm.


26/2/90

Moel Eilio - Snowdon - Hut.

Very windy, some ice near summit of Snowdon.

Read The Spy Who Loved Me last night.


27/2/90

Moving to Pen y Pass via Bwlch Maeseg Cwm -> Snowdon Ranger -> Bwlch Glas -> P y G Track -> Pen y Pass. Weather quite windy with some showers.

Back later in the week to pick up the rubbish bag.


28th Feb

Mike here again well I walked up to Pen y Pass the scenic route. Through the wind and hail and the wind blown snow in the cwm below Snowdon. But when I got there there is no record of the groups ever even booking for this week or next, most peculiar. Feel like Rip Van Winkle at the present moment. I came up to the hut last Friday night, with Giz, she leaves and I am somehow transported in time. There are several possible reasons for the group not being there. 1 They are at Idwal Cottage YHA or some other place 2 They are leaving Camarthen today but have not booked the Pen y Pass knowing it will not be full 3. It is supposed to be next week and I have mixed the dates up in which case I will look a complete fool but will have had a nice rest from the college into the bargain. 4. The trip has been called off for some reason.

I shall go and find out in the village using the phone. I don't fancy the trip back to Camarthen it will hurt my pocket too much.

Have phoned college. They didn't come up because of the storms, it's next week now. I would have said what storms but I read the morning's papers in Pete's. It wasn't that windy on top of Snowdon I've known worse in Scotland, the wind was gusting to around 40 to 50 miles per hour. I might have been too lucky not to have caught the worst of it. The saving grace of this was that I took some good photos. That's if my hands and body weren't shaking too much.

Tomorrow I will get the bus back to Camarthen, all being well. The danger of being in the hut for six nights is that I have read all of these James Bond books. The names Bird Mike Bird licenced to thrill etc etc. 003½. The music rises dan, der, dan, dan, derner exit stage left. Was I good luvie, did they like me, wonderful, wonderful! darling. what old Larry gone, dear, dear, Larry what a wonderful player, what a lead man E6 wasn't it. Dear Dear Larry I will miss him.

Mike Bird




March 1990




8th March

Mike Bird

Called back for sleeping bag and rubbish.




April 1990




6-8 April

A very cosmopolitan Red Rope trip, organised by Manchester with people coming here from near and far. Superb sunny weather - so lots (well a fair bit) of climbing and peak bagging. Shame about our Poll Tax posters being taken down, & the trip organiser losing his camera on Y Garn, but appart from that everything went v. well.

Chris Cant, Carolyn Walker, Tom Mills, Ivor Smith, Sara Stubbs, Roely Scheltens (Manchester) Peggy Walker, Tamita Philippa & Otter the dog from Bournmouth, Barrie & Marie Bradford Liz Birmingham, Linda Northwich and Melvyn (JR) Dallas from deepest Dyfedd.


21/4/90

Moel Eilio to Telegraph Col.

Dug mantraps to catch Mike Bird and thus save paper in our club book.

The Blakeboroughs


29/4/90

Steve Gille called after a great day on Snowdon (Pyg/Miners') The sky is blue, the orange thing is hot and the wind's warm. It must be December.




May 1990




7/5/90

Martin Lacey & Chris Lacey went up to Clogwyn y Grochan.

    Brant Direct HVS 5a (Martin reckoned that Chris was leadng like a "spastic")
    ** S S Special E2 5c (Chris led and Martin could not second without a fall)

P.S. Martin tried for ½ hour to remove the "in situ" flexi friend, unsuccessful.




June 1990




17/6/90

Ken ate & breathed fire! Justin & Chrissy dribbled fire too


WC Bogtrotters

P.S. We are all pissed or tried to!

P.P.S. I almost did the hardest climb of the day but managed to co-ordinate it so that my partner led through all the crux ptiches. Even grey weekends in Wales can have their politics and odium.

No activity since 17/6/90 Tut Tut?




July 1990




22/7/9019

The great heat wave.

After recovering Bill's old faithful boots from Bryn Boots in Bethesda Bill and Rob McH decided to go to Glyder Fach.

Left car in extreme heat and sweated up to Glyder Fach.

Enough is enough and the shade of Bochlewydd Buttress tempted us on to Marble Slab and Wall Climb - a good morning. On up to Glyder Fach and surprise surprise, only two other climbers there.

The guide book fell open at a route called Hawks Nest Arete VS with a good introduction and an open invitation to climb. Superb climbing at 4c and well enjoyed - why havn't we done this before!!! ??

A good day rounded off with a meal in Pete's Eats and a few orange juices in The Heights.

Paul in the meantime Karakhorum (sorry about the spelling) bound next week went for a walk. Moel Eilio etc to Snowdon and down to Pen y Pass. The heat or "drug" training got the better of him and we eventually met up with him in Pete's.


23/7/90

Promises made in the heat of the night and that extra orange juice that I was forced to drink saw Paul, Rob, Bill and Spike (Dave Pycroft) up to Cloggy. Spike and Bill - Diglyph HVS? good climbing.

Paul and Rob Curving Crack. Rob was impressed with his first visit to Cloggy.

Bill & Spike went on to climb The Boulder E1. The name was well chosen - oh boy was it bold. Not desperate climbing but if you fell off you would be faced with a desperate swing into the Black Cleft.

A Superb Day out

Bill


28/7/90

Cloudy weather in the Pass so off to Gogarth. Bill, Spike (Dave Pycroft), Bob and Neal.

A quiet cup of tea first when we were found by Dave Jones of Ogwen Cottage and a young "fishing gentleman" star of trout fishing programmes none other than Joe Brown. Many funny stories later bill, Spike, Joe & Dave went to Easter Island Gully area and on advice from the fisherman Spike & Bill did Hombre E1. Superb climbing. This was followed by Belial HVS - hard finish.

The A team did Supercrack led by the fisherman's friend and Volcano followed by complaints of very poor rock on the second pitch. Many more funny stories from J.B. rounded off a superb day.

In the meantime Bob and Neal went to Holyhead Mountain and did Teaser, Laceration VS, and Mrs Murdock.

A goodly day had by all.


27/9/90

Rain and more rain where shall we go.


30th July

The Rock Tour.

Arrived here after a sortie north of the border - managed two routes on the Ben (Route II and Centurion) and two golf courses (Fort William and Callender***)

Driven south by inclement weather, midges, disgusting beer and Freda's car.

A short stop was taken - Glossop to rinse billies and dabble dixies - then the Welsh leg of the tour.

Old Holborn and Plexus in the Pass (without the pegs) Scavenger on Gogarth then Llithrig (with rope move) and the Corner on Cloggy.

Joined by Jim & Pip

Friday saw us again on Cloggy - White Slab ****

Saturday at Gogarth including the Concrete Chimney and the annual ascent of Wen.

A large M.M.C. team was met at Carreg Altrem and Big Jim Witham led Greenpeace (deserves a star).

The weekend was partly spoilt by the aforementioned group - on Sid's meet kept us up being noisy on Sat & Friday evenings - a formal complaint will be sent to the Committee.

A map reading course is suggested for certain members who have difficulty in locating small features such as Cwm Silyn.

Cloggy again today but it was much colder and Indian Face was damp - so we're off home for wash etc - then on to the N.E. Scotland leg of the tour.

P.S. was the hottest week in the U.K. ever!! Who needs the Alps?

Les A & John Mc




August 1990




24/8/1990

We walked up Moel Eilio and Foel Gron then Foel Goch. Then we went down Telegraph Col. The scenery was beautiful when you can see it!

Llanberis is nice and so is Pete's Eats! Caer Fran is nice. It was lovely to wake up to beautiful scenery.

Heather Nock (Rowland's Niece)


24/8/1990

Arrived late Thurs night - Keith, Sue, Heather & Sara Nock (Rowland's brother and family). All liked farmhouse - both interior and view of twinkling lights.

Fri morning - views from Caer Fran lived up to expectations. Walked - or in my case (Sue) staggered up Moel Eilio - well worth the effort -despite mist on top lovely views on the way down. Really enjoyed Telegraph Col.

Room service throughout stay excellent - Thank you Rowland. Also thank you to M.M.C. for sharing the hut and beautiful surroundings..

Sue Nock


28/4/1990

Not much to add to the above comments except that after a long break from walking Moel Eilio has proved to me that my stamina is still intact a personal achievement.

Keith Nock


24/8/1990

After we climbed Moel Eilio they said that I was a mountain goat because I was first to the top with Rowland and all the others were still trudging up the monutains in the mist I had a great time and didn't want to go but I had to go its a great place I hope the sheep stay well and I hope everybody else stay well.

Sara Nock Rowlands niece




September 1990



15 Sept '90

    Manx Wall (Nameless Cwm)


16 Sept '90

    Great/Bow Slab

R Dickinson P.P.Davis



Editorial Note

The original transcription of the Record of Climbs ended here. The following text is work in progress and will be completed eventually.

I intend to bring the text up to December 1999 at the end of this year.

Records currently in my possession bring us up to April 1994 and the end of another log book.

Jim Hunter, March 1999