January 1989
27/1/89
Plymouth Polytechnic M.C.
Tremadoc : One Step In The Clouds, Merlin, and Eric's cafe was closed.
Weather windy but OK.
Plenty of attempts on a hard crack (5b) near Merlin? "Beginners" (really very hot) led their first slab (S). Three atomic lads tried Comes The Dervish but failed and cruised Last Tango In Paris.
RIGHT THEN, the Last Tango In Paris was "merely a warm up" (quote John Franks) to The Dervish. Rob then started but was rained off.
Somebody reading this please tell us what the crack to the left of Merlin at Tremadoc is
DRAGON? E2 6a?
Visited the Padarn in the evening.
28/1/89
Glorious weather!! Andy, Roland, John hacked it up Snowdon and John and Diedre ran up - such fittness is unfamiliar to Plymouth M.C.
Robert decided today was the day for the Dervish which was completed successfully in a couple of hours. He really was throwing some rad shapes while slapping for dinkies. John, in a silly hat, followed.
Good weather presided over the sweating torments of sinuous bananas and a very bold lead by Steve - his first on slate was Mental Lentils HVS. He very patiently dragged the rest of us up.
Ray & Dave did Tryfan east -> west come what may. A very classy mountain experience was completed.
Certain members considered Atomic Hot Rod E6 6c but that was as far as it got.
John with Wendy (sister) did a line left of Wrinkle at Carreg Wastad. On her first climb she did radically well!
Sun stayed out for the climbs and the evening was very starry especially through the eyes of some happy chappies. Bong!
One member, Matt, brought his ice axe; ever hopeful!
29/1/89
Up at 10.30 generally!
January really is proving her worth. Sun is out again.
Rob & John completed Pull My Daisy E2, and Rob soloed Red & Yellow & Pink & Green, Orange & Purple & Blue (E1).
Alex & Steve had a crack at an E6 6b in the Rainbow area but god knows what it was!
Another E6 6c was tackled but very fingery.
Bit of a mental afternoon really, but we enjoyed it!
Mat & Ray did Flying Buttress followed by Roland & Andy but Dave bottled out (in the nicest possible way!).
Bill did nothing except go to the Castle (sorry Bill).
John F actually scrounged a lot this weekend.
Quotes: "What's a reindeer?" (John B)
"Do reindeer really exist?" (John B)
"Edna Edna" (Matt)
"I'm going to fall in a minute!" (Bill)
Lots of love
Plymouth
March 1989
26/3/89
Had a great day, solo Milestone Buttress, Tryfan, Bristly Ridge. Pity no one out.
Rowland.
29/3/89
Ford Teambuilding Course.... 2 Groups
Cornelyn Manor
30/3/89
Ford Teambuilding Course AGAIN!.... 2 Groups.
Cornley Manor.
March 1989
16.4.89
Arrived 5-00pm. Circular walk across Afon Hwch up the ridge to the top of Foel Goch, and then around the top of the Cwm taking in Foel Gron and Moel Eilio before descending to the cottage via Cwm Ty Du.
17.4.89
Crossed the Afon Hwch and picked up the Llanberis path top the summit of Snowdon. Fair amount of snow above Cloggy station. The weather became cloudy and bitterly cold as we traversed the Lliwedd ridge and then dropped down to Llyn Llydaw. Weather cleared up as we returned to the Pass. A brilliant day with virtually no one on Snowdon!
18.4.89
Low cloud over the mountains, so we headed for Anglesey. Pleasant walk around Newborough Warren Nature Reserve followed by a sunbathing session at Rhoscolyn Head. A beautiful sunny day.
19.4.89
Went exploring around the slate quarries and ended up in Deiniolen. From Deiniolen we scrambled up Elidir Fach via Dinorwic and then to Elidir Fawr, where we had lunch. The cloud lifted and produced another sunny day. We followed the path above Marchlyn Mawr and then the Nant Ffrancon, bagging the peaks of Foel Goch, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach, before descending the Miner's Track and hitching back to Llanberis. A fantastic sunset rounded the day off nicely.
20.4.89
Hired mountain bikes in Betws and cycled up through the forest paths to the Llanwrwst lead mine. Descended to the A5 and returned to Betws along the Afon Llugwy.
21.4.89
Off to the Carneddau today.
A brilliant sunny week, without a spot of rain!
Simon Hill & Ruth Thomas
P.S. Anyone fancy taking a semi-retired climber to the Alps or Provence this year?
May 1989
14th May
Simon who? never heard of him.
Mike Bird (?) M.M.C. Bar, President T.C.U.M.C./C.C. Mark Lose T.C.M.C/C.C Sec
Bored. No!
Creagh Dhu Wall H.S. 1 pt of aid.
Christmas Curry, Micah E1 HS/S
Via Llanberis Pass, Nant Gwynant, Beddgelert once the auto started. Back the same way and chipie. Do you know that there are only 94 pages left in this book. My goodness how jolly, we shall have a new book soon! That is if we have the same number of entries as we have been having recently. I shall have to stop now as I am jolly bored & I expect that you are too. I expect all the funny comments have gone to Vis.
19th May
Mike Bird arrives again Friday night and can you believe it the hut is packed, yes packed.
20th May
Saturday morning everybody off to the mountain crags - it must be very warm.
Reports later.
Some time later.
Ordinary Route D/M Idwal Slabs Mike, Kate, Cathy. Much good fun had by all. Slow party in front but who cares.
27-5-89 - 1-6-89
Roy and Dave Edwards' Annual Climbing Holiday. This is my first climb in almost a year and something is very wrong: the sun is shining. It doesn't seem right at all. Perhaps this year we're going to have "a long hot summer" not a "cold damp early autumn".
Climbs : Gashed Crag
Main Wall
Something on Holyhead Mountain.
Ordinary Route @ Cwm Silyn
Creagh Dhu Wall
June 1989
2.6.89
3.6.89
11/6/89
Les Dethlefson and Fiona Watkins' attempt on Torero E1 5b resulted in rope burns for Fiona & a smashed vertabra for Les - enforced stay in Bangor Hospital maybe 4-6 weeks. (??? ward)
If it is a wet day and you're in need of something to do between now and the end of July he's an American, now working OB Eskdale, from Salt Lake City via Colorado - & probably would appreciate some company.
13/6/89
| John Domoney | |
| Fiona Wilkins | Striptease VS 5a at Tremadoc |
| Kate Harper | |
| John Domoney | |
| Fiona Wilkins | Scratch Arete VS 5a at Tremadoc |
| Kate Harper | |
16/6/89
Perfect weather, very good forecast - no one here!!
Cwm Silyn - Kirkus' Route VS Les A
Crucible HVS/E1 Ray Duffy, Phil Casson No peg now on pitch 2 - 5b
20th June 1989
Mike Bird & Karen Allwin (T.C.M.C.) Arrived today after walking round the horseshoe. Good weather (sorry, fantastic weather) lots of tourists on top, though we only met a couple of people before and after the summit. Dinner in Pete's and surfing yesterday. But it has gone flat. All this hot weather is ruining the surfing, I might have to start climbing again. Oh well off to the pub, more rubbish later. P.S. Exams have finished but results out soon.
24.6.89
Caer Fran has once more become "centre of the North" please book early for floor space. Slough & Merseyside unofficial joint meet.
Sat. Cloggy Great Slab. B.S. P.P.D. P.S. G.T. & Mike (S.(Slough)M.C. rep). It was good to go back to Clog after a few years absence.
Our great plans for fantastic routes were changed somewhat when we saw the crowds on everything.
Anyway Great Slab was chosen and in spite of the crowds was very much enjoyed. It was a day (of) back ropes, front ropes old fashioned waist belaying by the Slough member. A 6ft man had to retreat from a critical section, no names since he has bought me a pint. A very good day even though it was windy and I ended up with a cold.
Rob McH traversed over Snowdon via Telegraph Col down the north ridge of Crib Goch up the Glyders via the Cromlech down to Nant Peris.
A very good day had by all.
Bill
25/6/89
Bill got a cold!! in need of medicine. Gogarth was the order of the day. Geoff & Maggie cruised Central Park in fine style.
Bill & Paul - Bezel good climbing.
Richard D & Rowland did Puffin as Richard had left his rock boots at home and had to climb in trainers. Undaunted this pair then went on to Central Park. Richard boldly led the first and top pitches in trainers. A good effort!! a very good effort.
26-28/6/89
I.M.Marsh, L'pool Polytechnic
M.L.C. Assessment course.
2 nights only. back to normal wet Welsh weather after being spoilt by some glorious sun for the past two months.
Many thanks to M.M.C. for the use of the hut.
Gavin Peat
July 1989
1-3 July 1989
First time in a while I've been back now I'm in god's own country again. Came out on Sat with Bill S, Richard Dickinson and Paul Davies. Did some bouldering at Cromlech Boulders - wet and greasy, down to Pete's Eats and then the Vic.
Sunday dawned fair and bright - even sunny! and with it brought Geoff Turner. After a leisurely breakfast (what else in M.M.C. I hear you say). Off to the Big G.
A great day (especially as it's the first time on rock for me in ages). We did Minuteman (with varient finish) and Britomartis.
Today (Monday) was once again sunny - but even hotter!! - and so I walked up the Pass and did some bouldering, sunbathed, walked up to Cwm Glasl? correct names. had a look around, walked back down the Pass and into Pete's for tea.
It's good to see the old place is still standing. One query though - who is going to clear the ditch out next work meet.
Well bye for now. Hope to see all you scousers some time again, hopefully before next ski season - in god's own country of course.
Activities have included the Snowdon Horseshoe.
Sea Canoeing in the Rhoscolyn area - ascents of Tryfan.
Lots of fun and laughs
Thanks again.
W Les A & group.
August 1989
5.8.89
Neo alpinist training day. Sherpa bus to Pen y Pass 60p M D. "Leewed". Avalanche - Red Wall - Longland's Continuation. Boots & sacs, giant gnats.
Paul & Bob, Geoff & Roland. P & B walked back to C.F. over Snowdon, some people take it too far.
7.8.89
Marg's first night in Caer Fran for over eleven years!! It hasn't changed much.
8.8.89
Peace shattered. The Hirons arrive! Alan supposed to do Crib Goch but couldn't get within miles of the car park. (Excuse No 597(a)).
9.8.89
Usual Welsh weather. That dosn't change much either. Got drenched 3 times.
10.8.89
Hirons & Mullocks embark on gentle walk to Cwm Bychan & and visit the best ice cream shop in the world (according to Glen) Hirons depart for L'pool.
11.8.89
Skiing in Llandudno today. A very impressive situation, but why, oh why don't they get some sensible poma's. My arms were nearly wrenched out of their sockets!
23.8.89
A return visit to the hut after quite a long time (not quite as long as yours Marg!). Arrived out at 1.30pm to a really clear sunny day. Did Braich Ty Du face onto the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen. As the guide describes route finding at the top was very difficult. Still a great place for photos especially when you're with Chris "David Bailey" Hughs!
24.8.89
N.Ridge Tryfan - Bristly Ridge & Glyders. Weather still warm though mist on summits. Two days walking in shorts and tee shirts.
25.8.89
Knew it wouldn't last - thick mist and rain this morning. Still a good return visit. Hope to be back soon....
Sheila S
September 1989
24-9-89
Crackstone Rib, Ribstone Crack and Direct route yesterday. Off to Tremadoc today because it looks like rain. Just had a stupendous breakfast at Pete's. Ay, this is the life!!
George Lubikowski (IBEX)
Having returned after ยป 7 years have discovered what happened to my missing enamel plate. Thanks for looking after it for all these years.
Major Beaumaurice Bumble yesterday. Tremadoc today (see above).
Steve & the rest of IBEX
(Intimate lighting can be accomplished using little more than 3 tea-towels and 8 drawing pins).
December 1989
2/12/89
Just a note to say "Lacey" is back again, but now there's two of them.
(Martin & Chris)
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