January 1987
9.1.87
Spike & Twid - Central Trinity
16/1/87
Annual Dinner weekend. Arrive clear sky and snowdrifts.
We are told be President Peake that he is unsure how many people are sleeping at the hut, so be sure to take a karrimat.
Those present on Friday night were :-
Dave (Ned) Kelly
Mike Bird
Where was everybody else eh John?
Sat 17/1/87 Ned Kelly's annual entry.
Steve Gille arrives in morning.
We were here.....hiding!!!!
Mike and Ned after a leisurely stop - a very swift (mach 2 in Mike's mean machine) where we attempted to climb the semi formed Screen (III !!! - no way IV at least!!) After loosing confidence due to extensive ice due to the other demolition expert climbers and (mainly) due to large amounts of freezing (almost) water pouring off the route. As far as actual technical climbing achievements we did NOTHING!, but we had a nice(ish) day and at least we tried! - not very many people in this club did today!!
The dinner was very tasty, - the smuggled in wine was even tastier and this game of knockout whist is very boring because I'm out! Oh, there goes John - he's out as well!
I predict that nobody will want to climb anything tomorrow - I might tell you if I'm right! - Goodnight.
17/1/87
Mike Turner and John Cushine - Chicane Gully in Idwal - Wet! Spike and Neil - Chicane & Devil's Kitchen.
23/1/87
Mike & Spike
24.1.87
Met Neil in Pete's at 10. Finally decided to have a go at the 14 peaks. Arrived Aber 11.30. Managed to do all the Carneddau but didn't arrive in Ogwen until 3.45 so decided not to carry on.
24.1.87
The lads. Spike, Mike and Twid hit the Pad then the Vic. The Vagabonds had their dinner. Spike was well impressed "lots of talent" he said, does he want to become a Vag. Had a chat with Ian Wright he seemed well tanked up, plenty of right rudder and all that flying, anyway, he seems to be enjoying himself. Next year can we have a Cabaret act too? Spike has agreed to perform, as long as he can do it in time to The Jam, "Love Blinds". An amazing night, plenty of talent, no one left alone!
February 1987
21/2/87
Mike's mob. (Boss, Frankie, Paul, Oly, Matt, Tubs, Herbie (Me!),Shades, Chris & THE Van!)
Like the shower! Frankie's in there at the moment shouting things like Flip and Blimey. Just back from Joe Brown's and I managed to escape buying anything. Tubbs is sitting here cleaning that camera of his, and I'm running out of things to say already. I strongly advise everyone to take in the delights of the designer kitchen. After dinner which consisted of, well your guess is as good as mine, and a short lesson in etiquette which Tubs was in desperate need of we're of to the rub a dub dub for some serious drinking. Oh, by the way, we did do Snowdon today, just thought I'd put that in otherwise it looks like we aint done nowt in the way of walking.
Excuse Simon as he has just gone to get a decent tape.
23/2/87
Steve Gille and Co arrived to grey cloud but It's above the tops so off for a stroll around Mynydd Mawr before retiring to the Vic.
24/2/87
Spent the day in Caernarfon and the night in the Padarn.
25/2/87
Off to the Moelwyns today then home after three days of good walking weather.
March 1987
Friday 13th
The Work Meet
Present
21.3.87
Red & Yellow & .... Dave Edwards & Alan Moore - Weather bad.
April 1987
11/4/87
E Roseberry's Meet
Eric, Sue & Bill went on the slate. First route of the year for some! Pull My Daisy and Bella Lugosi.
Mass ascent of Mount Snowdon by Fiona, Suzanne, Dave, Bob & Roy. Another party went to Tremadoc, Dave, Lyn, Wendy, Alan & Mike and came back with Leg Slip & Valerie's Rib.
Sunday - the usual late start but brilliant, saw parties off to the Pass and more slate.
Spent all morning trying to unblock the drains. So much for the high fibre diet!
Dave, Alan, Wendy & Lyn stayed on after the meet :-
Sunday went to the Wastad & did Skylon (Al & Lyn) & Wrinkle (Dave & Wend)
Lyn absolutely knackered - so Alan & Dave attempted Unicorn Direct. Had an epic. Dave fell off, so decided I'd better try, gave up and attempted Unicorn, gave up decided to abb off. Got back to Caer Fran to find drains blocked. Oh shit!
Monday - "Rodding the drains" (not a route on the slate). A bold proposition! After running out 40' of drain rods, swopped to plunger (is this ethical) and the stream flowed free. Thanks to Bangor tool hire for providing the gear.
Tuesday - Weather looking good went to try a route on E face of Tryfan. Managed to get split up (lost). Dave and me were waiting at the end of the Heather Terrace while Lyn & Wendy decided to climb the North Ridge. Eventually managed to find each other and do a route each. Grooved Arete (Alan, Wendy),and Overlapping Rib Route (Dave & Lyn). Beautiful sunshine all the way. Dave did Adam & Eve for the first time! Brilliant day.
Revised version!!
Due to excess speed of Dave & Alan we got left behind and totally lost - no one in sight - we carried on up, completely breathless and with heart beating double the rate! Finally decided to sit and wait, little bite to eat etc when I noticed two familiar figures miles below - oh god not a descent!
Climbs pretty straightforward but descent left little to be desired!
N.B. Pass guide arrived in Brown's today looks quite good but not too sure about grading, is Cemetery Gates E1 5b? Is the Corner 5c? Find out!
I wish I could!!
Wednesday - got tea in bed this morning for the first time (looks like these graduate members are starting to learn). Decided to have a change and went to Gogarth. After a coffee decided we had to go for Dream Of White Horses. Left some gear with "the girls" and said we'd probably be late about 4.00. Went looking for Wen Slab, actually found it at about 3 o'clock. Thought we might be a bit late back. Ate butties, geared up and scrambled to start.
Dave led off on first pitch across, up, across, up, up then a comment from Dave "thank god for that I feel safer now. That gear down there is crap". Then a comment form someone nearby "You in the green - if you'r doing Dream you're about 25ft too high!" Out came the gear and Dave climbed down Wen (HVS) and belayed before the end of the pitch. After a gripping pitch I led through the next pitch finding a 6ft leftward traverse to a peg involved climbing down not across. Dave led through and the last pitch was a brilliant airy traverse I followed to finish and look across at the sunset. We were late back. Got back to the car at 8.30pm. Decided we'd be too late for the pub so stopped at the off licence for a bottle. Cheers!
Thursday - after a momentous evening watching "the lads" get drunk, they finally decided to go to bed at 2am, taking OUR sleeping bags with them. We are now in the process of planning revenge.
Another brilliant day. Going to Grochan to do Scrambler's Gate & then home!
17.4.87
Came out by myself and met Steve Algers. Had a superb day walking. I left the "moped" here and took Steve's Robin Reliant to Beddgelert. Walked the Craig Wen/ Yr Aran ridge, then Clogwyn Du/ Allt Maenderyn to summit of Snowdon (cafe not open). Continued along Cloggy/ Moel Cynghorion/ Foel Goch/ Moel Eilio ridge back to Caer Fran. Had a couple of pints in Beddgelert, Steve returned home, I'm spending the night on me tod. I'm so knackered I won't even notice the ghost!
Cheers!
Rowland
18.4.87 - 22.4.87
Christine Murtagh, Catherine Gilbert, Lucilla C-G. had a really good Easter weekend here. Went to the Alternative Technology Farm outside Macuncliff (spelt wrong!) v interesting, well worth a visit. Went up Snowdon yesterday, weather beautiful, misty on top but cleared just after we left summit. Catherine & Christine got LOADS of work done!
May 1987
1st May
Spike, Del, Mike, Ian & Fiona. Friday night.
New Llanberis guide now being dragged over the coals. Goodnight! Grade this, grade that, no you're joking "Yes"
June 1987
19th June
You boring lot lets hear what you have done, that's what this book is for.
20.6.87
St Helens M.C. Meet
Two of our party completed the Snowdon horseshoe. The other four visited Carreg Wastad and climbed Lion, Sun Valley, First Test, Unicorn, Overlapping Wall, Old Holborn, Ribstone Crack and Skylon. Good weather. Had a good time in pub to follow. (drunks)
25.6.87 - 1.7.87
Weather terrible, Done Scratch (Tremadoc) Main Wall (in the rain) Seamstress, Neat Arete and top-roped Seams The Same. Two days watching the rain. Lot of trouble with the car, but it seems to fix itself each time, so we are'nt going to interfere. Dave Edwards & Alan Moore
July 1987
3-7-87
Keith Melville, Ian Thompson, Colin Cronin, Pete Thomas, Dave Huddley Attempting the 14 peaks - should be back late 4-7-87 - with luck.
4th July
"God bless America"
That's in case we have some Yanks staying at some stage who's hut fees will be £5 per night. All those in favour please leave a tick in the space provided.
The committee awaits the result with bated breath
The Melville(s) once again do the the 14 peaks, a SECOND TIME!! Those who think they have a screw missing please tick.
x x x x x x x x x x x*
(* Sorry can't manage ticks - x's will have to do - ED)
Or is it that they trying to make up for the fact that one of the more outspoken younger members, like a snide keeps trying but never seems to succeed in his or her attempts.
The weather is fine. Pete's & then the pass? (Slate).
4/7/87
Central Park HVS, M Bird, W Sutherland.
5/7/87
Melvilles "Maniac" Marauders made a valiant attempt.
Gogarth E1 M Bird, J Pinch
(long cold day & you needed one)
Bill
Nobody at Gogarth compared to the hordes in the Pass & Cloggy.
25/7/87
The great British or Welsh summer. Low cloud light rain. Decided to go to the Madoc for alpine training seeing that it was a late start.
| Clapton's Crack | John B, Bill S |
| | Mike B, Bob F |
Much cursing and sweating on the first pitch. Well led by John. "Arms" Ferguson was blown out after pitch 1, insisting it was at least 5c!!
A good route but a bit crowded. Slow party on Leg Slip and First Slip. Very fast party inc "Jimmy Cool " on Venom. He made it look V Diff. Still we made it. P.S. Ask John about the audition for Billy Smart's Circus. Retired for sustenance and an orange juice.
P.P.S. I have been poisoned by a Chinaman.
Bill
August 1987
7-9 August 87
Kate Jones' Meet
Those attending:- Chris Murtagh, Lucilla Cardowa-Gilbert, Tony Ashton, Keith Melville, Kate Jones.
One of those familiar wet, misty weekends when inertia sets in. Saturday was spent wandering around Llyn Dinas and then over the hills to Beddgelert. Sunday has been spent doing very little.
On the whole a particularly enjoyable weekend was spent looking for "Havina Snog ". If you cannot identify this person from the notice board then ask Kate for details. Christine, as ever, managed to eat sufficient apples to stave off the dreaded "sag" for another week. Tony philosophically drank his way through the weekend while reflecting on the passing of those "good old days". To be fair, Tony had suffered a traumatic journey out to the hut at the hands of "Mad Murtagh". In addition he had been inflicted with Christine's novel approach to buying a new pair of walking boots. From all accounts this seems to comprise trying on one boot from the shop's entire collection and then choosing the one that fits least well. This decision seems to be made so as she can spend the next two days discussing whether or not to return them.
As Lucilla is at present drawing cartoons for the forthcoming newsletter I think it prudent to refrain from criticism.
Keith XXXX
27/8/87
Steve Gille and kids. arrived tea time after a day on the eastern Carneddau taking in Pen y Castell, Craig Cefn Coch Penygadair in warm sunshine (has summer returned).
28/8/87
Off to Ysgafell Wen in the Moel Siabod group today before heading for the coast for two days on the beach (come rain or shine).
30.8.87
Conscience Slab
Bus Stop
31.8.87
Tremadoc
Clapton's Crack - Del, Spike, Bill
Diadic - Spike & Bill
September 1987
5.9.87
Seamstress Slab
3.9.87 - 5.9.87
Tremadoc
| Extraction | Dave & Carolyn Harries |
| Merlin Direct | |
| Grasper | |
| Poor Man's Peut | |
Llanberis Pass
3/9/87
Bus Stop
19.9.87
Well We're Litchfield Mountaineering Club, and this is the first time in this cottage for me, Clare, Liz, Jason & Nige!! Went out climbing today, it started off sunny, but it soon turned to rain. Nige and Clare did Cemetery Gates, (well done) - while Liz, Me and Jason went to Pete's Eats and shopping. - That's it for now.
Jools
On the first night Julie Tactfully kept everyone awake.
For this we have a little ditty,
It's very long, but a little witty.
There I was upon the gates,
I'm not alone, I'm with my mates,
Florescent gear and friend at the ready,
Off I set, nice and steady.
For a belay, I've got Clare,
A bit of rope and a lot of air,
A piece of gear would go down well,
There's nothing here! Oh what the hell!
Just keep going, smear that rock,
Now pull up on that loose block,
A sling as well, I'll clip the blue
It' not a bomber but it will do,
It don't seem much as I get higher
Am I heading for a major flyer?
A bit of pro goes in the crack,
Stretch up and now clip black,
Jam the crack and reach the hold,
This bit's becoming very bold,
A dip for chalk will help a lot,
And waste the friend in a slot,
My arms are pumped, my legs are shaking,
Let's concentrate on the move I'm making,
Another move I'm at the belay,
Take in the ropes there's no delay,
As drizzle turns to heavy rain,
"OK", I Says, Clare climbs again,
We carry on in rain and hail,
While all around others fail,
At the top the cloud is
The abseil down is off a tree,
It held Clare but will it hold me,
Jason sped off in his car,
Watched by us from afar
He reappeared a moment later,
Foot well down on accelerator,
A Crag rat.
Nige Tuckley
October 1987
24/10/87
After leaving Liverpool in thick fog I arrived in glorious sunshine at the new car park below Llyn Eigiau Reservoir, the car park was full. Anyway spent a nice half day on Craig Eigiau which offers fine views into Craig yr Ysfa and Melynllyn.
25/10/87
It's cloudy again, well off to Manod Mawr today.
Steve Gille
November 1987
8/11/87
John, Stephanie & Andrew Blakeborough & Martin Hirons climbed Snowdon. It was cloud and rained and they had blisters. There would have been a mutiny, and a nasty end for me, but I was saved by the fact that I carried the sandwiches.
John Blakeborough
29.11.87
Dave Sid and Myself arrived on Saturday morning expecting Dave Graham to have our breakfast ready - no such luck. He and Steve Gille were up and gone to Tryfan, so after breakfast/ lunch we set off in pursuit. As we approached the summit the snow got thicker and the ice icier, I soon got to a point where my bottle was just about gone, no hand holds and not a lot of foot holds, was relieved to reach the summit and an easy descent on the other side, reached the car as it was dark. Lovely roast dinner by Dave G that night when Nick and John B'br joined us.
Note to Gen: Dave forgot the marj.
Suzanne
December 1987
11/12/87
Mike Bird returned from the south to land where the hills are tall they call the inhabitants the "Gogs" and they don't keep saying "lovely".
11/12/87
Bill is writing this with a broken thumb (there is a story in that). The Christmas party meet Wow!!!
12/12/87
Sat
Cneifion Arete - a very good day.
Les A - a return visit - member where have you been!! Maybe we're not too bad after all. A good day. Les, Mike, Suzanne, Bob and Bill - Bilious - well gone and going to bed.
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