January 1985
THE FIRST DAY OF THE YEAR.
Cold, dry and bright.
Off to Tremadoc.
John, Sara, Eric, Sue.
1-1-85
Simon Hill, Mike Bird, Ned and Spike arrived at 10.00pm hoping to do some snow and ice climbing - where's it all gone?
2.1.85
Up to Cwm Glas in search of snow in Parsley Fern Gully - no luck! Did some bouldering above Llyn Glas in big boots. Spike nearly sets the hut on fire in a pathetic attempt to get warm. Simon chopped finger off (well almost) also in a pathetic attempt to get warm. It's going to snow tonight!
3.1.85
(It didn't snow). Off to Ogwen today. Walked up to the Idwal Slabs, leaving the freezing level below us. A chilly, dry wind blew from the north, and a glistening sheet of verglas covered the slabs - the scene was set...
(Ned) "Let's do Tennis Shoe Direct" I said, still with some vague notion that anything at this angle must be dead easy! There was some Irish guy on the normal start with a large selection of 'friends' and 'tricams' and I thought I'd show him how to do it in "traditional style", so, hiding the RP's in the chalk bag I put on the Superrats and took off!!! (only joking about those last few items of gear - honest!) Well to cut a 150' long storey short I got fairly scared due to the thinness of the climbing, lack of protection and freezing conditions. I completed the stretch with only 3 runners ( I'm not bragging - it was ***!!? crazy) and after that the route went according to the book. A great route as we all know - could have done with crampons on the descent gully.
Spike and Mick decided to have a cozy day soloing 400' up on verglas (supposedly the Ordinary Route). Then Hope was attempted and a traverse across the Slabs took us back on to the Ordinary Route which was reversed.
Monolith Crack, once the hardest route in Wales was then attempted, finishing in the dark.
(Shoudn't be attempted soon after Christmas and the New Year) Mike.
4-1-85
The day dawned bright and clear about 11.00. There were clouds over Idwal so it was decided to go down the Gwynant Valley and do some classics on Clogwyn y Wenallt. Spike and Mike - Bovine HVS 5a, 4c. Ned and Simon - Oxine 4b, 4c. Once again freezing conditions caused numb fingers, but the final pitch (that both routes shared) proved to be "E7" (that's E for excellent by the way!).
5-1-85
THE OFFICIAL SELF CATERING MEET
Meet leaders S.Hill, D.Kelly, M.Hall
Those attending S.Hill, D.Kelly, M.Hall
Our early starts continued to be late but we eventually made it out of the hut and got on our way to Tremadoc. We warmed up on the famous Gwynant Crack and then proceeded to the car park. We parked too near the horrible sewer and the smell was horrible!!! The nasty niff however inspired to get the gear on quickly and Christmas Curry by the Micah Finish was decided on. (This was to be a revenge climb by Ned (That's me) due to a rather bad failure on this route two years ago).
Ned led the route competently, Spike seconded with ease and Simon Thirded. We all agreed to regrade the eliminate VS 4c.
6-1-85
Going home via Craig y Forwen. We missed out Forwen and ended up at the Breek.
7/8-1-85
After arriving back from two weeks in the Cairngorms, Dave G and David Mc came down to the pass to do Cemetery Gates regardless of conditions. However a late start, wearing big boots and carrying rucsacs with full ice gear saw us being benighted before the second pitch was completed. What progress was made was quickly reversed to the hanging stone where we made a hairy abseil descent in the darkness to safe ground, packed up our gear and walked to the hut. We will return tomorrow to recover our gear and to do the second pitch.
18.1.85
We arrived, about 20 of us. I can't remember who we were.
19.1.85
We had Spike, Dave G, Neil, Mike B, Graham Me and 3 females - Dave & Graham ??? head up the Miner's Track and did a bit of ice. We got well well pissed at the annual dinner - Mike B poured 2 tins of meths in the fire - horrible smell. It's now 3.21am in the morning and we're getting up at 0.00am in the morning - Joke. This was written by a drunken person. Graham likes snow rubbed on his **** **** and round his ****
20.1.85
Graham, Dave G, Mike Turner, Spike, Ned and Mike Bird after having gone to bed at 4.00am we managed to crawl out of our pits at 9.00am. At 11.30 we staggered out to the vehicle and drove down to the Grochan for a mass solo of a grade II/III gully. Lots of fun!
27-1-85
Visit to hut by Litchfield Mountaineering Club - only six members a poor turn out as we thought we were going to be over booked. Saturday bright and clear 2 members off to Parsley Fern again, whilst the rest had a slow ramble up Snowdon via the Ranger Path to join the hundreds of others also taking advantage of the weather. Sunday cold, snow and rain outside so it's off home. Many thanks for the use of the hut, just wish there had been more of us.
February 1985
EVIL KNIEVEL'S MEET (1-3 Feb)
Simon H, Richard Dickinson and Jean Lovins arrived Friday night, apparently the rest of the crowd are going to appear on Saturday evening. The new poet laureate, John Peak, would like his "president's introductory rhyme" to be recorded in the book. Here goes:
The Rhyme of the Flying Climber
3 cheers for the boys of the M.M.C.
(Why, what did they do?)
I thought you knew,
They saved their friend from a wetting.
3 cheers for them
(For when?)
For them,
He couldn't fly but they held him firm
(They held who where?)
Our hero there.
The problem was
Our hero was
Well, quite obsessed
With weightlessness
(With whatlessness?)
And fearlessness
But he couldn't float
So down he went
(So down went who?)
Our hero who,
They thought would die,
As he flew by.
(Oh tell me why they thought he'd die.)
Well, 3 chocks pulled
One, two, three
As he headed for the sea.
One friend left as our hero flew.
(A friend of who?)
Oh listen do!
I'm talking of our hero who,
Flew downwards past
Until at last
That friend held fast,
Skywards ho!
To shouts of No! Oh No! Oh No!
3 cheers for the boys who saved their friend from the blue
(Just tell me somebody - who saved who?)
2 Feb
The trio of Richard, Simon and Jean went for a walk as the wind was blowing, the snow has all but disappeared. A route to Snowdon was taken via Cwm Glas, Crib y Ddysgl (p.s. I can't spell) to meet the hordes of folk on Snowdon summit. Back the same way and down to Pete's Eats for the cups of tea.
3 Feb
It was a wet and windy and everyone sat in front of the fire drinking tea deciding what to do.
21/2/85
Mike Bird staggers into the desolate hut still stricken with the flu.(sorry if I spelt it wrong) after hitching from Bangor (The rail fare is in the expense range of those of you in the upper tax bracket).
20/2/85
Mike Turner and Gaz Parry hitched out in a few hours only 3 lifts needed.
21/2/85
MT and GP had a great clear and warm day and did horseshoe.
22/2/85
Mike Bird, Mike Turner, Dave Greenwood tried to hitch to Tremadoc, but after a good start Mike B & T walked down the Gwynant Valley for 3½ hours without an offer of a lift. Return to hut while Dave G got a lift to Pen y Gwryd and has not been seen since - sorry, has just arrived.
23/2/85
Dave G, Graham Mac, Mike Bird and Mike Turner went to Carreg Hyll Drem on a damp wet day. Mike T did a new route, so far unnamed, VS-HVS 5a move - not very good rock.
March 1985
2.3.85
An amazingly packed hut! Lots of scouts and things. Dave G and Graham took one of the scouts climbing (stupid boy!). Anyway the unfortunate chap broke his foot on P y B climbing wall.
8.3.85
Dave G, Graham Mac and Mike Turner arrived after a visit to the Pad. After an eight o'clock start from hut Dave started at 9.15 Graham 11.30 and Mike 12.45. Tremadoc was crawling in turkeys. Graham led Extraction with Mike Turner. Then they did Striptease in front of some young blond. It was a 5a mega VS route. Sunday it is pissing down, off to the wall and possibly climbing at Forwen.
29.3.85
Dave G, Graham Mac and Spike arrived. The weather is awful - visibility of one cats eye up at P-Y-B and pouring with rain down here.
30.3.85
Awoke early Sat morning to see yet more rain so minor apathy set in. But we managed to get to Tremadoc for 1pm. It was murky but the six of us decided to do Poor Man's Peuterey. The first two pitches were disgustingly wet and very muddy. The third pitch, although damp, was excellent and well worth the hassle. It was then to the wall at P-Y-B for an hour or so.
31.3.85
Dry but very windy so off to Tremadoc again. Dave led the 1st pitch of Vector, Spike led the 2nd (the wind was getting worse) and Graham led the 3rd (it was now at least gale force 9). All went smoothly except for the wind which caused the ropes to become a large suspended birds nest which refused to disentangle. Dave and a couple of friends did Y Broga, (VS 5a)on Bwlch-y-Moch " a sound route well worth doing".
April 1985
1.4.85
It's pouring with rain so we'll attempt to hitch to P-Y-B climbing wall.
It poured all day but managed to get to the climbing wall for a couple of hours.
2.4.85
The weather's brilliant - sun's pouring into the hut. We attempted to hitch to Tremadoc but 1½hrs later we decided we weren't going to get there. So after a cuppa in Pete's we headed off up to the Vivian Quarries with Mel Roberts. Between us we managed to do Comes The Dervish (E3 5c), Flashdance (E6 6a) and Belldance (E5 6b)25. Comes The Dervish is definitely a lot easier since I last did it but the grade of E3 5c is only in my opinion.
It's started to rain again.
3.4.85
It rained all day. Went to P-Y-B climbing wall for a few hours.
4.4.85
Off to Pen Trwyn in search of better weather.
Spike and Dave Greenwood.
4/4/85
Iain D and Mike T arrived late, wet and fed up. Hitched to Forwen (in 1) this morning. Whilst on the way to Burgess Wall we passed Great Wall and decided to give it a go. 3 falls, one lowering off and restart later we were beaten. Abbing down from the top caused severe depression, as Mike had failed just short of a ledge big enough to bivvy an army on and from there to the top seemed to be 'easy' ground (we'll try again on Monday on the way home with this in mind!).
5/4/85
Mike and Iain after a cup in Pete's walked up behind the hut had a look at the slate quarries, quite impressive. Mind the explosives though !
6/4/85
Woke to the usual sound of rain, but not bothered we hitched up to Tremadoc. A great day was had, the afternoon was sunny and warm and the rock dried off. Mike led Diadic and Valour with Iain, two great routes.
Diadic - an easier way of doing the undercut move on the top pitch of Vector - interesting.
Valour - 1st pitch is a bit fiddly and bold under the roof. Followed a party above us on the same route and - they went off route, so did we, but pleasant climbing anyway. Finally reached the top pitch which was a waterfall so we dipped out - try again later.
7/4/85
Off to Holyhead Mountain a spot of good weather. Mike led Tension (VS) and Iain, Dave and Geoff followed. As soon as we finished it started to rain so back to the hut.
Jane and John Edwards of the Kent branch of the M.M.C. braved the M1 (6b) to join their old mates from Liverpool on the mountains for the Bank Holiday weekend. Old mates forgot to turn up.
4/4
Joined by J Edwards Snr: Milestone - Tryfan - Bochlwyd - Idwal.
5/4
Capel Curig - Llyn Crafnant - Llyn Cowlyd - Capel Curig.
6/4
Hut - Telegraph Col - Snowdon Ranger Path - Snowdon - Hut via Railway.
7/4
Holyhead Mountain.
8/4
Cold, wet and zero visibility, but a pleasant change.
11.4.85
Spike and Dave arrived after a short holiday in the Lake District. It rained all the time but we got a few routes done. Ambleside Chimney Wall is the best!
Spike led the Dervish - no falls this time. The weather great - tee shirts!
It's started to rain again!
12.4.85
It's still raining.
13.4.85
The secret is out it has been discovered how young Spike can levitate up bare pieces of rock. I'm sure you have all seen the PEDIGREE CHUM advert "I breed all my champions on Pedigree Chum" it should read in Spike's case "I lead all my hard routes on Pedigree Chum". Though this brand is too expensive for him at the moment (he only leads E3) I am sure that in the years to come he will be "Best of Breed" on some of the easier 7a routes if he gets his grant and goes for the recommended DOG FOOD.
13.4.85
Sara Peake's Meet attended by: John Peake, Dave Stevenson, Dave Edwards, Alan Rippon, Mike Bird, Bob Ferguson, Iain Douglas.
Abysmal weather. Gale force winds with rain in the afternoons. Tremadoc with Yogi x2 Merlin and One Step In The Clouds either completed or partially done. Parties then separated for Plas Menai climbing wall or on shopping expedition.
We will all aim for the coast now.
13.4 85
Graham did Comes The Dervish in a short spell of sunlight followed by rain.
14.4 85
Spike and Graham did Void (E3 6a) at Tremadoc. The weather was excellent. Blue skys and brilliant sunshine - the first for weeks.
Dave Edwards and Mike Bird did Meshach (HVS) .
Dave Stevo and Alan Rippon did One Step In The Clouds (VS).
Iain and Jackie did Grim Wall (VS) and One Step In The Clouds (VS)
Sara and Bob did One Step In The Clouds - a popular route.
15.4.85
The BVMC Mid-Week Meet
Those attending: Spike, Nige Preston, John Hawkins. It doesn't seem many but it's the quality that counts - Nige is the President.
16.4.85
Tuesday.
Went to Tremadoc but shrouded in mist Nige and John did Valerie's Rib and Spike and Mel did Valour. By the time we'd finished the road was no longer visible due to dense low cloud. Both climbs were very wet.
Spent the afternoon on the Mot: Diagonal, Zeka, The Chain, The Link and Superdirect were done in much better weather. Spike freed a No1 friend from Western Slabs!
14/4/85 - 16/4
Finally managed to escape the inner city crisis to spend a few days in the hills. Sorry to have missed vegetarian meet - great news! - we're taking over the world. Weather wet but cleared by Tuesday for a fine scramble on Tryfan. Great to see a new generation putting up ridiculous routes here there and everywhere - but why do they have to resort to dog food? and where are the mountaineers of yesteryear? creeping privatisation?? - Martyn N.
So I found myself for the first time ever in the Welsh hills - what had I let myself in for? Never before had I been walking, and as for climbing - oops! get the jargon right, 'scrambling' well....
The climax of these few days has to be the ascent of the North Ridge of Tryfan - I did the real McCoy according to my guide, and it was wonderful - what a torrid beautiful mountain she was that day. I think this may be the start of something big!
Sean O'Malley
17.4.85
BVMC Meet Cont.
The same team went to the Grochan today Kaisergebirge Wall was done twice Karwendel Wall (quite hard), First Amendment, S.S Special (an excellent route, more the leader's than the second's).
20/4/85
Iain Douglas, Dave Greenwood, Graham McMahon went to the Grochan for the first day in the Pass this year.
Iain led First Amendment (E1 5c) with (3 falls at the crux) Graham followed in a snow shower (1 fall at the crux) and Dave followed clean.
After leaving an abseil rope on a tree Graham did Slape Direct (E1 5c) Dave followed, Iain failed at the crux. Dave and Graham did the 'hard bit' of SS Special. Iain led Brant Direct (HVS 5a) and followed by Graham and Dave . Graham led Wind and Dave followed.
A good day!
21.4.85
It's raining and we're going home!
29.4.85
WORK MEET
Nick & Dave Jones
Dave & Pete Melville
Chris & Carol Murtagh
Ruth Cornforth
Rowland
Bob Ferguson
Alan Rippon
Bill Sutherland
Dave Stevo
(To be sung to Rhythm & Blues)
RIPPON YARNS
Presents:
The Mountain Hut Blues
I got up in the morning
So I went to the loo (ladies)
Alan beat me to it
So I had to join the queue
Chorus: I got those, can't get enough of those
mountain hut blues.
Meanwhile in the kitchen
Nick was doing fine
Eating all the bacon
Leaving us the rind.
Chorus
Rowland's looking sickly
Oh what can it be
Looking at the list
You can see it's number 3
Chorus
Jammin' for his breakfast
Jammin' for his tea
Bill likes to Reggae
When we're sitting on his knee
Chorus
There's a scream in the night
Who can it be
Was it Bob, The Melvilles
Or was it Davy Ste
Chorus
Now us girls are finished
We're feeling mighty fine.
We've 1. Painted the kitchen
2. Fixed the window
Spike - 3. Put down rat poison } Lies
4. Fixed roof }
P.M. 5. Mended electrics
6. Painted outside of hut }
& bedrooms.
We would like to thank Alan for his brave attempts at fixing the ladies light switch in the toilet (5 hours!!?)
P.S. Can we please have our talc and deoderant back?
Chris & Carol Murtagh, Ruth Cornforth (available for bookings).
May 1985
4.5.85
Spike hitched out to the hut in just under six hours! I had to walk most of the way. A point to be noted for would-be hitch hikers is not to accept lifts to Mold.
Just arrived back from the pub some f--- mice have eaten my Alpen. Where's the f--- rat poison.
10 May
Sheila, Phil (Scraton) Anne Wilkinson (home from Canada) and John Mc came out for a couple of days (minus sprogs).
Saturday: Parson's Nose and Horseshoe.
Sunday: Cneifion Arete, Glyders, Bristly Ridge, weather brilliant.
14 May
Marty arrived to rain - but weather improved - Crib Goch, Bristly Ridge, Moel Eilio, Siabod - discovered new breed of Kamikazee mouse - seems to like milk bottles! Did Phil scrub the floor??
Adventure No 2 in the Welsh hills - Moel Eilio, Moel Siabod, Crib Goch, Snowdon, B. Ridge, and the Glyders - big & little. - Words fail me.
Sharon
20th May
Carreg Wastad
| M W Lacey | Overlapping Wall |
| I Waring & Christopher Lacey | Oberon Groove |
30th May
Grochan
31 May
Off to Cloggy. Weather fine!
May B/H weekend.
Iain, Graham, Dave & Co ventured to the Peak. Between rain showers managed a few VS's anything else was too hard! Saw Ron (F) soloing around and turned green.
June 1985
1st June
Friday
Pete M & Colin M arrived for Kate's meet and went to Bochlwyd Buttress in Ogwen and completed-
Wall Climb (HS 4a).
Saturday 1st June
Kate's Meet
Colin & Bob - Carreg Wastad
Pete M, Ruth, Alan - Milestone Buttress
Pat, Anne, Sue & Dot (in their own words)
Set off for Snowdon and made a 7 mile detour with one can of diet pepsi. Dehydration sets in, our brave legionaires strive (plodded) to the top. Finally arrived at the summit at 4.30 and collapsed. Was it all really worth it? They decided to get the train down but it had stopped running, so they tramped through bog, stream, and rivers to meet Kate's 8 o'clock rendezvous. Arrived back at the ranch sunburnt and tired! Gasping for some more diet Pepsi - arrived for 8.00 deadline at 9.15!!
John P, Iain - Grochan
Kaisergebirge Wall
Stroll On
Spectrum
Sunday
Epic walk, Crib Goch, Crib y Ddysgl, Snowdon - completed by Dave, Keith, Pete Melville, Ruth and Bob waxing lyrical about the heat shimmering across the lake.
Weather superb, fantastic views, completed in fine style because we are all knackered.
14 June
Pen Trwyn
| Melkor | Graham, Spike; Mike, Dave |
| Jerusalem Is Lost | Spike |
| E1 | Mike, Dave |
15th
| Spectrum | Spike, Mike |
| SS Special | Mike, Spike |
| 1st Amendment | Mike |
| Wind | Mike, Spike (training shoes) |
| Spectre | Graham, Dave F |
| Sickle | Graham, Dave F |
25.6.85
Annual pilgrimage up Snowdon, glorious weather, now back to the heat of the jungle. Bill Mosley.
23.6.85
Comes The Dervish E3? Iain.
26.6.85
Foil and Left Wall Mike T & Sara
July 1985
5.7.85
Pen Trwyn
6.7.85
The day of many falls
Surplomb - Mike led, Spike fell
Slape Direct - Mike led, Mike fell
Tom Plum's - Graham led and smashed his head
Trilon - Graham led with Katherine (on Ribstone Crack some guy broke both legs)
Stroll On - Graham led, Spike second, Mike fell off a lot. Comes The Dervish - Mike led (reversed 25ft very quickly!)
Brant - Kathy led, Gwenne had trouble, Iain failed to fall off.
5.7.85
Arrived in the Pass with time for one route - Wind.
7/7
Went down to Tremadoc, Weather fine and very few people about.
7/7
The sun is shining and it looks like a good day for sunbathing, but we might just stroll up to the Pass to test the rock.
Those responsible. Richard Dickinson, David Waul.
27/7/1985
Dave S's meet
After a rainy Friday night, Saturday was bright and cheerful, so off to Tremadoc.
Creagh Dhu Wall - Bill S, Clare, Dave S
Mensor
Oakover - John C, Richard D
Grim Wall
Yogi - Bob, Colin
Merlin
Y Broga
August 1985
2/8/85
Mel Ashman Ian Loten -
Dream Of White Horses
King Bee Crack
Diagonal
Kaisergebirge Wall
Ivy Sepulchre
Les Anderson, Pete Kirton -
Crosstie
Sickle
Wind
Slape Direct
Revolution
Cordon Bleu
1st Amendment
3.8.85
Mike Turner and Dave Edwards climbed The Plum E1 and Extraction E2 at Tremo. Also on route a friend 2½ was recovered by Mike on Extraction after a half hour struggle. High winds made the climbing interesting.
Graham & Spike did Silly Arete E3 and Itel E1 6a.
10.8.85
A dry but windy day at Tremadoc and the now standard 3 o'clock start.
Leg Slip - Graham, Jackie, Spike
Vulture - Alan M, Twid (M Turner) rests were needed!
Oakover - Bill, Simon H
Merlin
25.8.85
Don't go to sleep...
eternity
We stayed for one long dark spooky night and the rain lashed down on the window panes..... agh.
LA
September 1985
5/9
Bad timing LA, we arrived after 'Jiving About' VS (Pen Llandudno) (led by M.T.) in sunshine.
6/9
Total sunout.
Cod & Chips Pete Smith & Geoff Turner
7/9
13.9.85
An evening solo ascent of Tryfan by Gashed Crag Route. Then I found out why it was Friday 13th, the taps at Caer Fran were behaving like two week old babies - constantly gurgling and passing wind - but no water. Outside a great wind blows, but inside silence - silence - silence.
Geoff Turner.
Sat. rang waterboard, I think, never spoken to a Welsh answerphone before.
18.9.85
There seems to be an ongoing gurgling situation! Can't work out what's wrong so will try answerphone again! Hope you like the new tray!
Set off yesterday in mist, wind and rain! Aborted plan to do navigation around Cnicht as noticed a gap in the clouds. A good day on the Carnedds.
Early start today (10.00am!) and off to do NE Ridge of Y Garn if we can find it from Steve Ashton's guide!
October 1985
4-6th October 1985
Work Meet
Bill S. Dave and Keith M, showed up on Friday night with a big list of jobs. Spike, Cathy, Graham Mc and Jaquie also came out on Friday night.
Pete Smith, Stevo and John Peake turned up on Saturday night for a Caer Fran Committee meeting.
In all we worked damned hard and would have appreciated a little more help.
All yours.
K.M.
12th October
M.W.Lacey (Senior) Ian Waring (Y.O.P)
Chris (Junior) Lacey
Went up to do Comes The Dervish to find that someone had inscribed the following at the bottom.
"There was a young man,
But then he decked it,
...There was a young man no more"
Anyway reading that and discovering that the RP's had been left behind persuaded a rapid retreat after 30 feet. In the end we went to Clogwyn y Wenallt and struggled up Bovine and Ferdinand.
13/10/85
Nick Halls, Matthew Halls Junior
Sunday drove down from Ellesmere Port. Climbed Wrinkle on way down Pass with dad (I'm not sure he should still be leading he looks very unsafe to me).
14/10/85
Decided for dad's safety I'd better lead. Dragged him up Flying Buttress (he's obviously nervous, kept criticising my belays). Went on to lead Spiral Staircase and later did Dives and Better Things (let dad lead, didn't want him to lose face in front of the Marines and SAS who infested the crag).
15/10/85
Dad had a hard time so decided it was time to upgrade his footwear; took him to Joe Brown's and persuaded him to buy a pair of Han Wegs bright yellow rock boots. Looks a bit of a fairy but might improve his climbing. Decided to go to Idwal Slabs so dad could try out his boots (met a load of geriatric climbing instructors from Ogwen Cottage, friends of dad's they should all be collecting a bloody pension by now). Had to let dad lead Tennis Shoe so he wouldn't lose face. New rock boots not doing much good. Holly Tree Wall , Original Route. He put in a lot of protection made it a bloody sight harder for me, continued up groove above, dad obviously getting nervous kept complaining of wet greasy rock, we'll need to get him a chalk bag for Christmas. Dragged the old fool up to the top of Glyders where the sun was shining on a sea of cloud.
16/10/85
Dad to take over second as the neo Adrian Mole cannot be trusted to see things in the correct perspective. Drove to Ogwen again - as Mum had arrived after biking from Ellesmere Port and she needed to be dropped off at the highest point possible (she had sworn not to cycle up another hill) so that she could freewheel to Bangor. Allowed Matthew to lead Milestone Direct - he climbed by a process of avoiding all polished rock and ignoring all runner placements. (This made it a bit difficult to follow as I thought the polished rock too slippery and the unpolished rock too hard). I got my own back by walking up to Heather Terrace - to the bottom of Grooved Arete - (continuous complaints from the 'apprentice' who is a typical little crag rat and hates walking). Climbed out of the dark, overcast gloom just below Belle Vue Bastion - into brilliant sunshine - and finished on sun-warmed dry rock - so did Direct Variant - to show the apprentice I still had a bit of go in me. He was not particularly impressed unfortunately, seconding it in about 2 minutes - and powered off to top of crag - (where he proceeded to photograph goats - while I had to struggle up with a loop of slack).
Again a brilliant day above the cloud, with only the 3,000'ers above an even layer of cloud. The apprentice was much impressed and now thinks climbing in Wales much better than Scotland.
17/10/85
Drove to Pass - left mum to cycle to Caernarfon - agreed to meet at car park at 14.00hrs. The apprentice led Crackstone Rib (he managed to find some runners this time - so at least I was not so worried about rope burns on my hands) apparently not noticing the exposure on the crag (I wonder if he suffered brain damage at birth - or is he sniffing glue?). Went on to do Nea - and discovered the top pitch had fallen down - or at least was very unstable - so decided to lead up Spectre finish. The apprentice did not seem to notice any discontinuity between Severe and Hard VS (I always did think he lacked a certain sensitivity especially as I was still shaking when he arrived at the stance). We rushed down to meet mum - then went down to Pen y Pass for tea and cakes (an unavoidable interruption in the smooth flow of the mountaineering day whenever we join up with mum). At 15.30 decided to get above clouds on the ridge @ 17.00 took photos of a Brocken Spectre with us all in at once and then roped mum in the middle of traverse Ridge (apprentice was not impressed - and as he passed other groups kept muttering about having to lead a slave train to Snowdon summit). Arrived still roped together at summit @ 17.45 much to the amazement of a group of Public School M.L.C. candidates with their rucsacs and map cases. They seemed to think a rope on the railway as slightly incongruous especially as we were wearing training shoes - it obviously confused them slightly.
Descended into the murk again.
18/10/85
Cleaned up hut and departed. Drizzle outside - Anglesey perhaps.
19/10/85
W.O.P.S. (Wolfson Outdoor Pursuits Society) Expedition North Wales '85.
Members:- Chris Marsh, Andy Busby, Lisa Curtis, Bjorn Sowden, Richard Burnham, Sally Day, Kathy Clayden, Diane Gray, Chris Buckley, Marcos Scott, Dave Jones & Ali Abdalla
Aims:-
1. To join the other hordes of people on Crib Goch and spend the day joyfully queueing their way to the 10 millionth ascent of England & Wales' highest mountain.
2. To stay dry!!!
3. To return to Oxford with the expedition bus in one piece.
4. To survive a double overdose of grease plus a WOPS megamix curry special.
20/10/85
So far so good
21/10/85
Doh ray we so far!
PS anyone interested in past expedition sponsor slips please contact Chris Marsh c/o above Oxford. You never know what your name linked with such an expedition will do for your career!!!
31.10.85
Sue and Eric arrived for half term break (or total collapse). Ventured to Tremadoc - pleasantly quiet and dry. Leisurely ascent of One Step In The Clouds & back for one of Eric's culinary masterpieces.
31.10.85
Carolyn, Dave & Richard Harries, 1st visit to Carreg Alltrem - Lightning Visit, Fratricide Wall, a torch would have been useful!
31.10.85
Spent half the morning in Bangor Accident Department, Dave's big toe was hurting him! The pain was relieved with all the resources of the NHS, the end of a red-hot paperclip was used to pierce the toe nail. Down but not out, the team made it to Tremadoc, Richard and Carolyn alternated leads on Christmas Curry. Dave recovered enough to do The Plum with Richard.
November 1985
1/11/85
George Bowden's Meet
George, Bill S, Steve Gille, Suzanne Ayers, Pete Hoey, Jane & John, Keith amd Pete M, Sue and Eric, all attended a superb meet.
Thanks George.
29-11-85
Dave Melville's Meet
Dave & Keith M, Alan & Joan Rippon, Bob Ferguson, Richard Dickinson, Christine & Carol Murtagh & Cathy all in attendance.
Weather was lousy both days but a good time was had by all.
December 1985
29.12.85
Chris Murtagh Meat?
Alan Rippon Visitors: Marion & Andrew Taylor Joan Rippon (Sunday afternoon) Bob Ferguson
Pete Smith
Carol & Chris Murtagh
Storage Heater
Food Great*
Weather - Snow & Sunshine.
Alan showed us all how to 'breakdance' on ice*
Carol
29.12.85
Marty Nightingale & Kate Harper visited Chris' meet too! - impressed by growing number of vegetarians!
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