January 1984
1/1/84
Too wet and windy for anything.
John and Sara
5/1/84
Having spent my hard-earned wages & Christmas money on a new ice axe and an extortionately priced bus journey down here, I found that there was no snow or ice. To add to my misery I electrocuted myself on the cooker whilst heating up my sago pudding.
6/1/84
Hoped to do Pyg Track but stayed in bed as it is cold, wet and misty. Lazed around in the hut and watched a succession of mountain rescue helicopters fly towards Cloggy - obviously in search of Spike's elusive pinklies*.
Decided to stroll up to Cloggy in the late afternoon with the faint hope of finding it in condition for the weekend, but couldn't even find the cliff in the mist. Hopefully, this weeks meet will be more successful.
*(9.8.83)
Simon H
13-15/1/84
Thanks to Bill for use of hut.
Arrived 9.00pm arrival at hut somewhat later owing to Dave's excellent map reading.
In looking back through log found several places of interest to visit i.e. Pete's Eats & Victoria. We came across one chip shop ourselves!
Sunday breakfast had a visit from a low flying sheep who decided to land on roof above kitchen.
Thanks again. David Pryce, Neil Sansbury, Christine Smith.
20/1/84
Arrived in Llanberis at 11.15. Were up in the hut about 12.00. Ned managed to produce toast and tea in about 10 mins - "is this a record" - Quote.
21/1/84
Although we got up late, we decided to search for some ice in Cwm Glas. Due to a general lack of equipment, only Ned and Spike were able to get a route in - Parsley Fern Gully. Simon and Mike continued up the Crib y Ddysgl ridge and witnessed part of a heroic helicopter rescue behind Lliwedd. At 4.10pm we changed our boots for trainers and ran down the railway track, getting back here at 4.55pm Scrambled down to the Vic just in time for the start of the meal. Scrambled up from the Vic and got extremely wet - unlike wimpy 'James Bond' Spike who didn't want to scuff his patent leather shoes.
27.1.84
We arrived late and after a quick pint we went off to bed early for an early start.
28.1.84
An early start on a cold morning and it was off to Cloggy to do Boomerang Gully. Lack of ice produced a snow scramble but good fun was had by all. Halfway up the gully on a belay ledge Simon (Dr Dolittle) Hill discovers a shrew, after 'boffin' off about high metabolic rates an attempt is made to save its life, and the poor mammal is stuffed in a haversac lid.
Once on top of Cloggy the intrepid party find themselves in a blizzard and head off to the Trinities. Saddly though the other 4,999,999,995 (in joke) were on the gullies so after a swift grovel to the top we headed down to the car and Pete's and then the Vag's disco in the Vic. (The shrew died and was buried below Hebron Station with full honours).
29.1.84
Apathy set in and it was off home (the snow had gone as well).
Bill S, Simon H, Dave H.
4/2/84
Alyson's Meet
Pete, Aly, Dave & Keith (welcome to the club hut!) were breakfasted and waiting for Bill, Simon H & Dave S to arrive on yet another wet & windy Saturday morning. Bill, complete with new car, spun up the lane (ask Bill for details) and disappeared again with Simon, Dave and Keith. As the remaining members in the hut were not totally convinced about the climber's activities the account of the climb has been left to Simon Hill's vivid imagination to describe. (Author's note: Simon is still wearing his red and white ski hat from the annual dinner!).
"We set off for Tremadoc in the faint hope of finding shorts and tee shirts weather - instead we decided to do Oberon (V.Diff) in waterproofs and big boots. Despite the fact that two whiz kids told us that they'd been forced to retreat from the final pitch of Christmas Curry, we completed our route without too much trouble, amidst rain, muddy chimneys and sub-zero temperatures."
Meanwhile back at the hut Pete Dave S and Aly settled down to a hard afternoon's read and followed this with a walk down to Llanberis. After tea we managed a pint in the Vic before retiring for the night.
Sunday dawned wet and windy and saw us eating our packed lunches round the table. It looks like a quick walk and then off home.
P.S. What happened to John and Sara?
February 1984
6/2/84
Just Canoed the Seiont and am soaked to the skin. Popped in to drop some gear off for next w/end (please excuse the 15ft of fibreglass in the hall) happy New Year
Neil
11/2/84
Arrived at 9.00 after leaving Liverpool at 7.15, not bad for an H reg Cortina eh!! The reason for the rush did not arrive and we abandoned the Pass. Having not had any sleep at all last night (another story!) I decided on Brant Direct and that was it for the day. Back to the hut to catch up on lost zzz...
12/2/84
Woke to a perfect day so hit Tremadoc. Ascents of Pincushion and Silly Arete and abbing off from the first stance. Couldn't get the car started so left it at Tremadoc and went to Porthmadoc, returning at beddybies to prove it can be slept in.
13/2/84
Up late and managed to get a push-start. Back to the hut for food. Then the Pass again, failed on Foil. And then top- roped it. I'm glad I failed, it's desperate. Then back to the hut.
14/2/84
Off canoeing. This is where Les gets his own back!!!
Neil Davies.
Les Hall.
April 1984
20/4/84
Has no one visited since I was last here!! All arrived in mummy's car after the cortina followed in the Davies vehicular tradition and broke down in Gloucester and had to be towed to Liverpool! unloaded the two cans of beans and 20kg of potatoes that made up our provisions and got to bed.
21.4.84
Ogwen was chosen as the venue for the days activities. Dave, having woken at 10.00 and eaten his breakfast immediately complained about everyone's slowness. After eventually negotiating Deiniolen's maze of roads we arrived at Idwal prepared to take on anything it could throw at us (well the Ordinary Route and Tennis Shoe anyway). Dave, after being told he was a pig by Mo gave up on the day and only woke up to second me up Suicide Route 2 in the hope that I would fall off. Andy arrived back, to witness the mass ascent of Suicide Groove on 2 9mm ropes, after running halfway around North Wales - finished off with a leg shaker on Route 2 and back to the hut.
20/4/84
| Mensor | John & Sara Peake |
| Tantalus | |
| Craigh Dhu Wall | |
21/4/84
22/4/84
22/4/84
To Tremadoc. Neil & Mo did Christmas Curry, Micah Finish while Jon & Dave went off to do Geireagle. Having blown Dave's mind yet again Neil & Jon did Grasper, Mo & Dave Clapton's Crack. Neil, still enthusiastic, wanted to do another route but failed on Venom. Jon led it, Dave 2nd. Back to the hut. Attempted to skateboard down the pass but got rattled to pieces after 1/3 way down. To bed after nosh up.
23/4/84
Bye bye CU again
Neil Davies, Morag Maxwell, David Harrison, Jon Kenyon, Andy.
23/4/84
First visit of the season to the infamous Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. Weather fantastic - not a cloud to be seen all day. We had the place to ourselves in perfect conditions.
| Daurigol E3 | (East Buttress) | AW Lacey & Ian Barnett |
| Taurus E2 | (Pinnacle) | |
| Shrike E1 | (East Gully Wall) | |
24/4/84
| Dinas Mot | Direct Route VS | M Lacey, I Barnett & |
| Cyrn Las | Great Buttress E2 | Chris Lacey |
| Dinas Mot | Crosstie HVS | |
24/4/84
Mal Ashman, Ian Loten.
Gogarth. 1st route of the year - The Ramp. I thought it was a V.S. (Don't say a word Anderson!)
Same day, Grochan Brant Direct. That last pitch of The Ramp was a long one especially if you use the old Menai Bridge. What will tomorrow bring? Wind probably. We had chili for tea.
Ned, Spike and Simon H arrived at mid day and decided to hitch up the Pass to do a "warm up" route on the Grochan before we started on the hard stuff. Having watched someone fall off the first ten feet of SS Special and land upside down with his head six inches from the ground we decided to have an attempt at Delphos (VS) - Spike's first route of 1984 (you certainly get your money's worth for 4c on the 1st pitch).
24/4/84
Hitched a lift off two Lubyanka (E3) bound hippies up the Mot. Simon and Ned started Diagonal - by the second pitch we had accepted the seriousness of the route. Simon got slightly gripped leading the 3rd pitch (a very good lead! - Ned) The fourth pitch was the proverbial sting in the tail "climb the strenuous corner crack 4c" Hmm..! Well it went after much grunting and groaning but this guy must have been pretty Brahms and Lizt when he gave it 4c - MEGGA ROUTE!!! Next on the agenda was Crosstie. After a pleasant first pitch I had to take a hanging belay (someone else was on the stance) 45 mins later Spike was nimbly picking his way across the ultimate megga traverse of all time. This pitch was ace and was followed by another of the strenuous 4c cracks. It was then Ned's turn to lead the top pitch. The first thirty feet were brilliant 5a and then the rocky horror show started. "The ultimate in crack pitches, you've got to go on this one... and keep going". The gear was reasonable, the finger jams strenuous and the foot holds non existent but I didn't fall off and it must have been 5b! I finished off the route with that silly little mantleshelf at the top of Cracks. This route is truly ACE and is better than Diagonal.
To complete an enjoyable day's climbing Spike & Simon did Western Slabs VS.
25/4/84
Fantastic day! Brilliant conditions!
25/4/84
Gogarth eventually! Found Scavenger by the pretty way. Good quality climbing which seems to go on forever.
Mal, Ian
Off to the Grochan again. The three of us burnt up Kaisergebirge Wall (HVS). Spike was the first to ab off the holly tree and made a bit of a wally of himself by landing on a bloke who was leading the second pitch of Hangover - he blamed it on the wind.
Speaking of wind, this was the next route to be bagged. An excellent lead by Spike (HVS 5b) an excellent second by Simon, and a slightly marred second by Neil (rest on rope below crux, a lead will see my ego avenged) saw us all on Lords, gibbering at the thought of abbing off that awful twig! A few more rocks were added to the foundation and then Ned launched himself into space....
26/4/84
Early start and straight off to the Grochan. Simon & Ned chose Spectre as the route of the day - little did they know....
Simon was still unable to do that initial 4c crack and was forced up the slab. He led the second pitch & had a minor epic getting up the horrendous jamming crack. Ned led the groove pitch with difficulty - Simon seconding with chronic indigestion. We finally got loose scrambling behind us and it was over! To summarise: 5 falls; 1pt aid; 4hrs 45 mins.
Meanwhile Spike "burnt up" (his leader's quote) Slape Direct (5c) and then went on to do at least a half of Quasar (6a), due to a lack of time.
Dave Kelly, Mike Hall, Simon Hill.
27/4/84
Return to the hut (after picking up a ticket for failing to stop for the police in Mold last Tuesday night... Went to Llech Ddu (arrived at 11.00 am, not bad from a 9.00 start from Mold!)
The Groove (Lacey/Barnett)
Cupid's Inspiration & New Variation to pitch 2:
110 foot 5b/c Continue up groove thru overhang, move onto steep right wall with difficulty to a flake, move up and diagonally right on undercuts to finish directly below Zenith. (Barnett/Lacey) (protection poor)
Llech Ddu The Great Corner E2 (Lacey/Barnett, Al)
28/4/84
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
No excuses, weather great. Never did like performing to an audience.
May 1984
5/4/198417
Arrived last night Simon H, Dave Melville, Bill S and Dave S. Up at 8.30 and off to the Pass at 1.00 via the Co-Op at Llanberis. Simon H & Bill did Right Hand Wall - Anthropology*, Dave M & Dave S did Petite Fleur Arete (dig the French) minor epic i.e. no pro at crux. Bill's mate Dave (confusing) arrived on Saturday and did Short Tree Chimney with Bill. Dave S & Dave M did new variation at start. Start 15ft left of normal start and go up crack and blank wall for 15-20 feet to a good ledge. Traverse right going through a tree (elderberry?) to left of chimney. 30ft 4c hard heros.
Bill, Simon H (who led) & Dave M then did Wind and bottled out and finally did Kaisergebirge Wall.
*Overhanging corner definitely 5a! (Simon H)
What awaits tomorrow...
John & Sara arrived late afternoon at Craig Ddu
6/4/84
Cyrn Las or the Grochan?
The weather is becoming cloudy and it is rather late and who wants to be in the shade anyway?
Sara & John Peake
6/4/84
First trip of the year to Gogarth for the boys. Simon and Bill did Bezel (middle pitch now 5a - official). Dave M seconded, and Dave S had a go at Uhuru. Then off to Holyhead Mountain to do King Bee Crack (HVS). Why does it look so easy from the ground? Simon led, Dave M seconded, Dave S got lowered from the bulge and finally Bill shot up in fine style.
19.5.84
My first return to the hut for years, the absence certainly making me realise how good it is. We have been here for a week although our list of climbs could be done in a day. The trudging around in snow all winter certainly doesn't do your arm and brain strength much good. Been to Pex Hill, Craig y Forwen - Mojo and Duchess Craig yr Ysfa - Amphitheatre Wall Girdle - which is certainly exciting especially the abseil off the jammed Moac. Britomartis on North Stack after not wanting to venture towards 'Tailer on the Sea'. The Weaver and One Step In The Crowds at Tremadoc good routes. We had a good time in all and now will be leaving to go N again. All the best - Martin and Mark.
28.5.84
Very pleasant walk up Snowdon via Telegraph Col not too many people at the top. Off to Portmerion to see No6.
Drod and Mark Tunstall
26/5/84
Bank Holiday Weekend - Bill S Dave M and Dave Price
Sat. Cloudy in the Pass so off to the big G. Imitator (VS) Bill & Dave M. Saw big Ron F doing Ardvark, solo reversing Ramp and finally leading Barbarossa - how does he do it. Finished off with Puffin and so back to the Pass.
Sun. Went down to the 'Madoc'.
| Bill & Dave M | Clapton's Crack VS |
| Bill & Dave M | Merlin VS again. |
| Bill & Dave M and Dave P | Boo-Boo |
A good day.
Mon. Anglesey and Rhoscolyn crags. Superb weather. A few problems finding the crags first but eventually. Truant VS, Badger Crack S and Symphony Crack were climbed. A good day and a worthwhile safari.
June 1984
9/6/84
Bill, Dave M and Ruth Cornforth out for the weekend.
Sat. - Tremadoc Bill & Ruth - Christmas Curry, Dave and Pete "the Frenchman" Smith - Christmas Curry by the Micah variation.
Tea was consumed in Eric Jones' cafe and then off to Craig y Castell where Creagh Dhu Wall was completed . Well nearly - by Dave who had an incident with a No 8 hex - full report will follow in the next Newsletter - you should have seen it!!!
Sun - Tremadoc again and Craig y Gesail with the hang glider enthusiasts.
| Princess/ Acropolis variation | Dave, Ruth & Bill |
| Bramble Buttress | great route Dave, Ruth & Bill |
| Avalon | Bill & Dave |
A good weekend - no crowds where are all the members this weekend?
17/6/84
Mike's meet (where has Dave Harrison gone?) Leader Mike Bird (Who?). Bill, Kate, Ruth, Rowland Nock, & Dave M arrived Friday Night for tea and toast and an early night (Bill was still recovering after being out the night before & not in the watering hole in Dale St "What time was it you got back Bill?"). Saturday dawned (as it normally does after Friday) warm but damp & it was decided to go to Holyhead Mountain while Kate went for a walk up Moel Eilio.
Mike Bird (leading) and Rowland;
Bill, Dave M & Ruth;
Please note the word "mega" does not appear in this account of climbs as it does in the record of 24/4/84 as that lovesick climber does not seem to want to climb any more (shame) Has cupid fired his arrow? No (29.7.84). (14/9/84 - No comment - but I'm here now so shut up!!)
Sun 17/6/84
Cloudy with low mist in the mountains so off to the seaside again.
After having coffee in the South Stack Cafe Kate went for a walk to Holyhead Mountain and North Stack. Dave M, Ruth, Bill, John and Sara Mike Roland braved the abseil in to Castell Helen. Two other climbers on the middle ledge were heard to say "How many others are coming down?" !!
John and Sara - Atlantis/North West Passage
Ruth, Bill & Dave Lighthouse Arete.
Rowland and Mike Lighthouse Arete
Seeing that Ruth was climbing so well we decided to introduce her to Pel. Dave led the first pitch, superb climbing. Ruth went next - well that's what we thought - didn't she do well. Bill had some trouble removing a Friend (no it was not Ruth) from a crack. I wonder how it got jammed! The top pitch went no bother and so back to the Pass for tea.
17.6.84
Sara & John out for the week.
Midweek report.
Sat. Direct route. Top pitch wet hand-jams ugh!
Sun. Atlantis/North West Passage connection. Excellent climbing.
Mon. Grochan Spectre, Kaisergebirge Wall, Slape Direct.
Tues. Cemetery Gates (led by a whimpering Sara Peake 3hr for 1 pitch!) Followed by Grond (John raves about it while I cursed on a tight rope all the way; it's the last time I do a route to get the pro out).
Wed. Scratch Arete, failed on Pincushion (lower peg missing) , descended round the corner on Barbarian.
Thur. Festery day, beginning at Gogarth and lacking the courage to go over the edge ended up on Dinas Mot doing West Rib.
Fri. Rained off. Morning spent making up for the lack of work meets we've attended. Spring cleaned toilets and showers and we both felt virtuous. Caernarfon and Bangor looking for bargains.
Sat. Elaine arrived, off to Tremadoc. Rained off Chwys John and I soloed Yogi, looks like bad weather is set to stay.
July 1984
7.7.84
Mike Turner and Dave Greenwood after an early start did the Direct Route and Western Slabs on the Mot and Trilon on Wastad.
7.7.84
Bill, Dave M and Simon H came out in the late afternoon and did Wind (HVS 5b) before going to Pete's.
8.7.84
Mike Turner, Dave Greenwood after another early start walked up to the Grochan only to be rained off Phantom Rib (up and back from the crux) met Bill on Mot and took it easy and did the Cracks.
8.7.84
After retreating from the Mole and then M.P.P., Bill, Simon & Dave M did Diagonal. The memories came flooding back for Simon as he remembered that this was one of the last routes he had done with Ned before the poor man's retirement from the climbing scene.
7/8/84
One way of developing butch calves!
8/7/84
Scarface (Llech Ddu) Martin Lacey and John Peake.
The Windmill, John Peake and Lew Brown.
Black Spring, Sara Peake and Elaine Owen.
My parents arrived, first time in the hut, mum suggests new curtains and a rug in front of the fire and why do we call it a hut when it's a house etc. etc.
9.7.84
Pat & Frank Caernarfon, Bangor, Beaumaris and up the little railway to the top of Snowdon. The weather has broken, scattered showers causing havoc for John and I at Tremadoc. Having roped up for the second time - a well timed shower having stopped us first time - we did The Weaver, excellent climb.
9.7.8419
Kate Garner arrived at the hut, the bad weather having prevented her attempt at the 14 peaks.
10.7.84
11.7.84
Off to Gogarth. Kate, Steve
12.7.84
Tremadoc. Sara - Chwys, John - First Slip.
13.7.84
Tremadoc. Kate Poor Man's Peuterey well led for 1st Severe lead. Sara - Helsinki Wall, John Pincushion led in frightening style with vital runners slithering down the rope.
Sara Peake.
14th July 84
Simon Hill's meet (should have been Neil Davises but like his mate Dave (Skully) Harrison he cried off! Is this a plot!)
Arrived on Friday night in Prince of Wales (not another pub this Mr Sutherland keeps taking us innocents to). On the meet Simon, Mike, Mike, (Bird & Turner), Bill, Dave & Keith Melville.
Saturday, Very wet, after breakfast went down to JB's and saw a helicopter swooping upon the Pass, this should have been an omen coupled to that of a single magpie, so we went to Gogarth in search of good weather or a swimming pool. Had a look at this route called "A Dream of White Horses" never hear of it, but it looks like rain (thank God!). So we went to North Stack to have a look and Bill and Simon decided to try Miura.
That was where our problem started. Having found the start of the route "Evil Knevil" Hill started up a steep groove protected from the "rain" by an overhang. He carried on despite protests from the support crew that they were getting wet. A well placed No1 friend held a short fall (6ft) caused by the rock which had now become wet. A decision was made to abort mission and Simon traversed left onto an adjacent route - Maverick. Rain now falling steadily but Simon made good progress and disappeared from site (Sic), rope going steadily out and as we all thought he must be nearly up.
Suddenly there was an almighty scream and Simon arched backwards clutching half of the cliff in his hands. The first runner pulled and then the second saved him from plunging 80ft towards the sea. We thought old Neptune was claiming another victim when suddenly he stopped about 3ft from the water. Dazed and with a knee injury - we dragged him onto a safe ledge and after some assistance with fixed ropes managed to make the cliff top and the car. Injuries were checked in the Bangor C & A but fortunately they were not serious and soon we were enjoying our evening meal washed down with some suitable vino. "I have heard of leading meets but this is ridiculous!" was one quote heard at the dining table.
24/29 July 84
A very pleasant week spent walking, scrambling and canoeing. Excellent skinny dipping weather and surprisingly few people on even the popular walks.
David, Jeanette and Emily Tunstall & Bryan Diggens.
29.7.84
Spike arrived in Llanberis at 11.12am after hitching from his house starting at 8.30am. Was given a lift by a bloke who did nothing but talk about the £21000 armed robbery his brother had been put away for. I was quite scared! Hitched down the Pass and soloed Wrinkle (V.Diff) and Divinity (5a) Dave H after starting at the same time as me arrived at 5.00pm. It was the charm that did it.
30.7.84
To the Grochan for about 10.30. First off Spike led Slape Direct E1 and then Dave (Richard Geer) Harrison led Surplomb E2. After this apathy set in and it was back to the hut for tea.
30.7.84
Clogwyn y Grochan
31.7.84
Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadoc
Mangoletsi*/ Barbarian .. ..
(*missing out the hard bit!)
31.7.84
The weather is looking just a bit mean so a day off. After the rain had gone off we went up to the "Holes" at hut to play with the UXB's . Maybe tomorrow we can be hard men again.
August 1984
1.8.84
Rain still falling so after a big moan off Spike we went to buy new rope for my runners (my god I look like a V.Diff boy). It was then back up the Pass to the Wastad, a half- hearted attempt at Brute 33 failed so Unicorn (HVS) was done. The we had a go at the New Girdle VS. This turned out to be a good route taking the best part of Wrinkle, Unicorn (backwards down an abseil rope) and the three pitches of Lion. At this point it rained again so we finished up Ribstone Crack, but the route continues through the crux on Shadow Wall on beyond.
2.8.84
Going home coz it's wet
Dave H + Spike xxx
Friday 3rd August '84
Craig Gogarth - Upper Tier:
Against Ian's better judgement he was whisked away from a wet Mold town centre at 7.30am for a day trip to the seaside.
The heavy rain over the last few days has left the cracks in a greasy condition. After completing our first two routes we retired to the cracks for a spot of sunbathing - that's when I made the silly mistake of changing into shorts. Firstly it started to rain halfway up Winking Crack and secondly DON'T do Winking Crack in shorts unless you want de-skinned knee caps.
3 - 5 Aug
Stuart Bamforth's meet.
Walked Snowdon horseshoe Saturday, Climbed Tremadoc Sunday. Weather poor Saturday and glorious on Sunday pm.
ML
5 August - 10 August
Sheila, Phil, Paul and Sean plus Greg Mc Lerner + Suzanne Battleday out for a week of mixed weather. Some good canoeing around Anglesey plus Parson's Nose etc. Walked on Cnicht. Paul's first climbing day (he's just 5) and he's well into it! Weather steadily improved towards the end of the week - Portmadoc next week xxxx S + P
P.S. Hut, especially floors - filthy and took a good deal of cleaning. Phil.
11.8.84
Peter Melville & M Henneghan arrived 2.00pm. Cycled up from Conway, both tired. Moving on to Barmouth tomorrow. Weather's good but starting to cloud over.
P.M.
11.8.84
Eric Roseberry, John and Sara Peake drove out this morning - late start. Up to the Cromlech. There's a queue at the Corner but Resurection beckons John. He then makes a fine attempt failing on the top move. (taking 4 hours!)
The Corner, then free, goes to S Peake followed up by the men. I'm very chuffed.
S.Peake.
John announces formally, his retirement as from 11/8/84.
12.8.84
Superdirect - S.P. & J.P., Lorraine - E.R., S.P., Windmill - E.R & Peter (one of the Pex Hill Mob), Link & Chain - J.P. & Peter.
17/8/84
Keith and Dave Melville arrived at the hut late Friday night after spending the day on the Wastad:-
Saturday was spent on Craig Ddu:-
Rift Wall - Simon was right, the second pitch is at least 5a VS.
Petite Fleur HS
Rib and Slab VD
We hope to spend today on the Mot to round off an excellent weekend.
19/8/84
K.M.
17/8/84
Mike Turner 2nd Left Wall with a mate.
23.8.84
Arrived at hut knackered after 8hr drive from Bideford. Rather demoralised by the routes on Lundy.
Fri. Crosstie - S & JP (AL) a very fine route (might even say mega)
Sat. Ten Degrees North S & JP (almost AL) SP (2 falls & 1 submission on the final L hand traverse and then fell off 2nding).
P.S. Re Crosstie, endorse comments of Messrs Ned & Spike of 24/4 inst.
Sunday. Red Wall You have been warned
John & Sara
27/8/84
Dave and Heather Stevenson arrived after several bus and train journeys.
28.8.84
Dave and Spike arrived from that small isle to the west of Bangor to meet the Stevo clan in Pete's Eats (Spike led a mild HVS at the seaside and asked me to include it in my written words). It was then off to see "Quasy" on the telly in the Vic. Spike got a weep on and callously lobbed my flip-flops into the deep and sharp undergrowth. A hunt will be held come first light and if it's not found Ruth will have his knackers for tea. (Like she got Dave's on Anglesey ).
Spike led Emulator (HVS 5b). Dave thought it was hard he asked me to watch him.
29-8-84
Spike & Dave took Dave & Heather up and over to the P y G car park we weren't going to pay for the Pen y Pass car park. After originally deciding to do Snowdon we decided to do the Glyders. Dave and Heather did Glyder Fach while Spike and Dave did Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr, running most of the way.
P.S. The flip flop was in fact found safe and sound and all is forgiven. It was then off to the Prince of Wales for far too much fall-down water. Spike
30.8.84
Most of the day was spent shaking off hangovers. At 7pm it was decided to go off to the Grochan to do a route. In the end Spectre was chosen and by the time Spike started to lead the first 5a pitch darkness was closing in fast.
After that pitch all progress was made via Spike's head torch (which broke and had to be carried down in a pullover). Once the climbing was over the intrepid party abbed off into the now very dark space below. Then finally down to the car park and back to the Vic for last orders. (Does this mean that what Ned Kelly and Simon "fall off a lot" Hill can lead with aid and many falls in the daylight Spike and Dave can do in the dark?).
27.8.84 to 31.8.84
| Spiral Stairs | D Edwards |
| Dives/Better Things | R Edwards |
| Crackstone Rib | |
| Wrinkle | |
| Christmas Curry | |
The team of six is off to "Tremy" and then off home. It's rumoured that Spike has an empty house and a little lady. Is he to follow in Ned Kelly's footsteps?
31.8.84
Spike led Barbarian (E1 5b) with Dave H
31.8.84
Tremadoc
Les A and Rob Gregory - Grim Wall, Merlin Direct (in the rain)
Carolyn and Dave Harries - Salamanda (yuk!), Plum.
September 1984
5.9.84
Marty N & guests - floor was very clean.
Once upon a time.....
1-9-84 - 9-9-84
Dave Greenwood got a lift out with some mates and camped at boulders. A bit wet on Saturday so I just watched an ascent of "Direct" - Dinas Mot and then toddled off to the Tyn y Coed for a long night.
Sunday was a bit drier so we made it down to the Grochan and did Brant Direct (quite easy climbing but I thought it was a bit claustrophobic at times). After getting the ropes stuck round the block and having to wait for an hour until another team was up to retrieve them (I'll use the tree from now on!). A sorry attempt was made on Slape Direct, after one fall and two submissions we gave up and watched another couple of mates doing Quantum Jump. Finished Sunday by waving goodbye to my lift home and got into my tent just as it started to rain. Monday woke up quite early, still raining heavily, in fact so heavily the stream had risen quite alarmingly. After a few more hours I realised it would be a good idea to move my tent across the road. Just in the nick of time as it happened as less than half an hour later the stream burst its banks. Slept uncomfortably in a damp sleeping bag. Woke up to a brighter day and went down to Llanberis (bought some RP's) to look for someone to climb with, couldn't find anyone so went back to my tent. While I was at the Cromlech Boulders an American called Neal came along looking for someone to climb with, so we teamed up and went up the Cromlech and Neal led Memory Lane but (un)fortunately it was too late and I was too cold to follow him. What was fortunate was meeting Kate who had a spare key to the hut (comfort at last). Wednesday I teamed up with Neal again and went to the Grochan and failed (just) on Quantum Jump and then annoyingly failed on Slape Direct again (I'll get it next time) so that was the end of the day. Thursday - back on the Grochan again and did SS Special (E2 5c) which was quite technical but not strenuous at all - recommended - tried Quasar afterwards but failed before the crux (pumped).
Friday I thought I'd try something hard so I set off for Dinas Cromlech to do Right Wall after sitting on the belay ledge for 3 hours while Neal led it I was very cold but well psyched up for a brave attempt. Just as I was preparing to go there was a yell of "below" from above, as I was belayed I couldn't jump out of the way of a karabina somebody had THROWN down. It hit me right on the middle of my head - they couldn't have done better if they had tried! Seconds later I could feel blood running down my face and into my eyes so I couldn't climb the wall. By the time I had got down to the tent I was covered in blood all over my face and down my arm, out of approx a dozen tourist cars only one asked if I was hurt badly, I casually informed him that "I had had worse". After about an hour of prodding and poking the wound, it stopped bleeding so a trip to the hospital was not required.
On Wrinkle a couple of cronies turned up at the hut so I went off to the Pass with them, watched them do "Direct" After a bit of messing around at the boulders we decided to get another route in so we went down to the Grochan and I took Graham up First Amendment (hard, but good).
Wrinkle - went home.
Dave.
P.S. Any Oscar nominations?
and they all lived happily ever after....
14-9-84
Spike, Dave G, Mike and NED arrived after a very wet journey out. We had a good pump on the PYB climbing wall then sat in Pete's for about 2 hours discussing how to make Irby Quarry harder.
15-9-84
Work Meet.
Nick Jones, Ian Wright and Chris, Pete and Ali, Dave and Caroline Harries, Mike Hall, Dave Greenwood, Ned Kelly, Mike Bird. The day started at eight with tea and breakfast, and a discussion on what to do. It was raining so inside painting was decided upon. After much thought on the colour scheme, mint and cornflower blue were decided upon (Spike), (I thought cornflowers were yellow). The bridal suite was painted in the mint (Spike) with what was left being splashed on to the window bays in the women's dorm (Spike). No blue undercoat so two coats of gloss was needed on the handrail and door frame with the stairs still to come. Severe cleaning of the kitchen was undertaken by the women with Dave H and Pete T painting just about everything that was whitish white again.
The late afternoon was taken off by Dave G, Mike B, Ned and Spike. An attempt on Comes The Dervish (E4 6a) by Dave G then Spike, saw Spike take his first 5 leader falls but finally just before sunset Spike reached the top knackered. Ned and Mike B had a go at Legs Akimbo (HVS) but so many pieces of rock fell off that route that they had to abort - a very inadvisable route to do.
16-09-84
Nick, Ali and Pete went board sailing; Dave and Caroline went climbing and Mike, Ned, Dave + Spike stayed to finish off the painting. Mike Bird did the murals.
18 Sept 84
Phil (Scraton) and Martyn (Nightingale) arrived at lunchtime to Ogwen - Cneifion Arete, Y Gribin, Glyders and Y Garn followed by a few drinks in the Vaynol. Fine day which ended in rain....
19 Sept 84
Heavy cloud and poor forecast but no rain - Dolmen Ridge, Glyders, Bristly Ridge and down - another good day - picking the route on the Dolmen is fun!!
20 Sept 84
Friday - off to Jammed Boulder Gully, Dinas Mot, Crib Goch, N Ridge. And it was a good day except that I (Phil) managed to get jammed in the boulder area (painful) complete with rucsac.... as anyone knows who's been here (either up it or down it) it's a small space!! Reminded me of those Abraham Bros stories - much pulling and pushing until a contorted body exploded out of its skin.... no it wasn't completely right but a hell of a good laugh! All in all it was a fine day with good weather and some memorable moments. Oh yes...Bob Dylan? "Shedding off one more layer of skin" (Jokerman 1984) - and several layers of clothes! After all it's a small space!
October 1984
20.10.84
Graham McMahon, Mike Turner, Dave Greenwood and Ian Douglas arrived Friday. After running into Tyn y Coed in the driving rain David realised he had locked his keys in the car. Fortunately someone had a similar key behind the bar, so the panic was short lived. Next stop: the Padarn. Awoke (not in the Padarn!) to the usual sound of rain lashing down on the hut with thoughts of another day on the PYB climbing wall. But no, after the usual cup of tea in Pete's, we drove towards Tremadoc and clear skies. As we walked up to the chosen crag Bwlch y Moch, Mike managed to bury his training shoe clad foot in eight inches of mud. Perhaps an omen of things to come? Dave and Ian got stuck into a couple of VS's, Grim Wall and Shadrach while Graham and Mike waited to have a go at Vector E2 5c.
The saga begins:- Mike brushing the cobwebs from his harness, while Graham scrounged gear from everyone in sight (Dave and Jan) struck with fear at leading the first pitch. One hour later we began with Mike wobbling up the first route he had done since France. Graham led the second pitch nervously and belayed from a peg 10ft short of the proper stance. Mike followed and in doing so lost a wrestling match with a Rock 4 and had to abandon Ian's first piece of lost gear*. Mike reached the heavily overcrowded peg (four different people's different krabs attached). Moving of into the crux, his wrong choice of krab became apparent as he stopped abruptly and fell all of 12 inches. After unclipping the correct krab he completed the pitch with much grunting and swearing, climbing past Graham to the correct stance. When we had both reached the cave stance, Mike took the lead, disappearing over an overhang and out of earshot (a severe problem later). A muffled scream signalled his successful ascent of the amazingly, satisfying overhanging undercut move. The trouble began. Not having known which way to go on the route Mike crossed the ropes and tangled one over the other out of sight of both of us. Graham waited for a call but only people in the cafe could hear him. After half hour of tugging, yelling, swearing and being trampled on by other climbers the wind dropped and Graham leapt off the belay pegs and proceeded to enjoy the climbing. We rushed off the crag with paper bags on our heads to prevent our now familiar faces being recognised. A Really ace route!
*More to follow
A wandering (downhill) self emptying rucsac finished the day as it started!
21.10.84
Off to Forwen then home.
November 1984
21.10.89
Geoff Turner's Meet
Brave souls in attendance:- John & Jane Edwards, Lisa & Pete Barlow, Richard Dickinson, Nigel Anderton, Bill S, Dave Melville, Graham McMahon, Mick and Geoff Turner, Dave Greenwood. Sue & Eric, Jane & John arrived Thursday pm and spent Friday testing the waterproof characteristics of Jane's cagoul. The rest arrived through torrential rain, fog and all kinds of inclement weather against their better judgement and resigned to the fate of wet weather alternatives for the weekend. To everyone's amazement - especially the Met Office - Saturday dawned in its non- raining form even hints of blue sky threatened to emerge through the menacing sky.
John & Jane claimed to have climbed at least 51 Carnedds. Lisa & Dave believed they'd been up Tryfan but did not actually see it. The remaining adventurers headed for Tremadoc and ended up climbing in sunshine (+ starlight) for the rest of the day, the following routes:-
Graham, Mick & Dave - Scratch Arete, Itch
Richard & Nigel - Yogi, One Step
Bill & Dave - Striptease, One Step
Sue & Eric - Scratch Arete
( & Geoff) Grim Wall
The greatest challenge of all was the encountering of Geoff's mega apple crumble which defeated most of us but thanks to Irene for the wonderful spread.
Sunday was less bright and promising with countless mumblings of elaborate plans. Dave & Bill made a hasty retreat to have a burglar alarm fitted to Bill's car - I've heard some good excuses but that's original. Lisa & Pete set off towards Snowdon horseshoe. Richard and Nigel to climb in the Pass. Mick, Dave and Graham vanished from sight and Geoff stayed to embroider the M.M.C. logo on all the pillowcases. Jane & John set off to take a sub aqua walk at Aber waterfalls.
A good time was had by all, proving that the weather forecast should be ignored when planning a weekend and that it is not the weather that defeats mountaineers but the sheer volume of an apple crumble.
15 November
This was an unusually eventful journey out even by our standards. With Sean and Paul safely deposited elsewhere Sheila & Phil (Scraton) conked out (well the car actually) on the M53 and were "persuaded" to join the RAC. Still stinging from the experience (£47) we stopped for food in Ruthin and Phil lost a tooth on a barbecued spare rib! (Probably another £47). Managed to get to bed without further ado.
16 November
Neither of us can remember the last time we slept until 10am... no kids! So wide eyed and toothless we walked over Cnicht, probably the only clear hill on a very misty but mild day. Off out for a meal (Pete's Eats) - we really are hitting the high spots tonight...
17 November
And another lie-in - this could be habit forming! Mixed day, but dry, so it's off to Ogwen and possibly the Carneddau or...
24/11/84
Stardate 23 - 24 November 1984
Captains Log: Quest
Mission members: Chris Marsh, Andy Busby, Judith Allanson, Phil May, Mike Luke, Victor Inazi, Lynn Morris, Vicki Rose, Genevieve Ledoux, Bjorn Sowden, Paul Rose, Ron Frumkin, Tim Davies, Phillipa Hare - all from Wolfson College, Oxford OX2 6UD.
24/11/84
After much debate we divided into three (uneven) groups -
1. Snowdon via Miner's and Llanberis - bivvy outside hut 21/2hrs.
2. Ogwen Cottage - Carnedds - Nimbus
3. Llyn Ogwen - Tryfan - Bristly Ridge - Glyder Fawr - Cwm Idwal - Nimbus
Fantastic views, hailstorms, low cloud, blue sky and lots of people! (on Glyders).
After lots of veg curry (thanks to Phil and Chris) off to the pub (the best possible finish to a great day!). Chas.
Also 23.11.84
Graham and Dave got totally pissed at Plas y Brenin. Much better than climbing in the rain!
30.11.84
Graham and Dave couldn't resist the call of the Padarn again so they resorted to the use of a motorbike on Friday night. Very cold and very wet (the weather not the beer!). Surprisingly enough it rained all day Saturday so we went to PYB climbing wall and did 4000 traverses at least. Went to a party in Llanberis in a Citroen 2CV. The police stopped the car as they were blinded by the headlights, not surprisingly, badly adjusted for carrying 8 people. Chris, the driver, sweet talked the pigs without them detecting the fact that she was pissed.
Sunday. We got up and wrote in the book and now we're going to Tremadoc to do some exceptionally difficult, hard and dangerous routes. Although Dave doesn't think he is ready for a Hard Severe yet. We shared the hut with 13 people from Leeds Outdoor Pursuits Club.
December 1984
8-9/12/84
Dave + Graham + Dave went to Forwen on the way out, did Freedom (easy) + Mojo Direct (failed) + Dutchess. Tremadoc on the way home.
17-19/12/84
Mike, Ian Knox, Andy Foster, Steve, Alister (the guide) David, Terry, Sheila organisers.
Went up Tryfan on 18/12/84. Terry saves Mike from falling to his death. Only for Alister and Terry we would have been stuck and had to be rescued.
Leaders + guides drunk up to the eye balls both nights.
19.12.84
Up at 7.30am had to make breakfast for adults.
Terry came into our room and brought us all a cup of tea each (Mike had to get out of bed for his). Today we were going to climb Snowdon but heavy rain stopped us from climbing. So we all came back to the hut to tidy up (we did a good job).
Off to Conway for the castle.
"Mike could not shut his mouth for both days"!
"Woman climbs Tryfan with us"
"Very old woman!!!!!!!".
"Dave looks a right Wally"
"Dave attempted 50mph driving to Tryfan"
We all had a good time and hope to come again.
"Liverpool"!
Scousers Rule O.K.
21 to 23.12.84
Bill, Pete Smith, John & Sara Peak, Simon Hill and Dave Kelly, Dave & Keith Melville all turned up on Friday night in order to avail themselves of Joe Brown's "discount night". A great deal of money was spent (mainly by Bill) and then Marion and Graham were taken up to the Vic for a thank you drink. Geoff Turner Also turned up on Friday night with intentions of snow and ice climbing on Saturday - however the Llanberis weather once again shattered everyone's plans.
On Saturday one group of hopefulls made off for a climbing wall which unfortunately (or so they say) was closed and ended up in Bangor picture house watching Ghost Busters. (Simon wanted some tips for next time he encounters the headless shepherd at Caer Fran).
The other party went for a walk around the forest at Capel Curig and generally gave the old Goretex a good testing. The day was finished off by a modest Christmas dinner which left everyone holding their stomachs and crying for mercy. All in all a great weekend was had by all (I think).
Keith M
P.S. "We aint 'fraid of no ghosts!!!"
Ned.
The Last Day of the Year.
John, Sara, Eric and Sue
So ends 1984
AMEN
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