January 1981
1st January 1981
Arrived back from Pwllheli about 3.30pm after what is best described as an unquiet evening. With a bit of luck I'll be back on solids by Sunday. Walked up a little hill near the Rivals (biggest Iron Age settlement in Wales I'm told. Forced to walk around 200 hut circles and nod appreciatively at each pile of rubble) and then returned to the peace, tranquillity and increased hut fees of Caer Fran. Still no one home, so I'll have plenty of opportunity to swot up on some Chemistry. Ah well, never mind it's got to be done sometime.
P.S. The Christmas decorations are smashing.
Oops can't get water to work and can't find instructions to see where I've gone wrong. Therefore, I'm going home. The weather was lousy anyway.
February 1981
21.2.81
The S.W.G.B.M.M.C. Meet (South of Watford Gap Branch Of the Merseyside Mountaineering Club)
After the long drive Friday - early start Sat morning - woken by John Victory!
Ed (Hillary) and myself went over to Ogwen up Peny & Helgi Du - Carnedd Llewelyn, Carnedd Dafydd Pen yr Ole Wen - brilliant blue sky to start which quickly turned into a snow storm. The hardest part of the day turned out to be coming back over the Pass but after plenty of skidding up we skidded all the way down! Over the Glyders today if we can get over to Pen y Gwryd.
Here's hoping I'll see more of the "Northern Branch" soon.
L Anne Williams
March 1981
26.3.81
The midweek mountaineers arrived for some pre-workmeet fun! Hazel Pete Pam Simon.
Thurs. Tryfan via North Ridge, great day. Sunny!? Bent car on Joe Brown's shop wall!
Friday. Fair day spent playing at Little Tryfan. Simon lobbed off on a V.Diff. Pam was heard to use "strong language" when Simon told her it was good practice. Two routes done before the rain came.
Returned to the hut in preparation for the work meet.
April 1981
3/4/81
Friday. Hugh Mantle and Ron Jones - Dream Of White Horses and Britomartis - a day out on the way to Bala.
4/4/81
The S.W.G.B. are back again. We seem more active than the Liverpool M.M.C. Woke up to superb day - blue skies, not a cloud in sight and hot sun. Decided it was a day for the Snowdon Horseshoe. A superb day - spent 1 hour on the summit of Lliwedd sunbathing - not bad for 4th April.
Returned sunburned and very happy.
Anne & Sheila
3/4/81
Hartshead School, Ashton (Ray Duffy I/C) arrived (with a bang) oops.
4/4/81
In glorious sunshine we all scaled the heights of Glyder Fawr and Y Garn (note from ed. - bloody big barbed wire fence across Y Garn path). A beautiful day.
5/4/81
Walked up Telegraph Col to Ranger Path through the col and up to Cloggy. Cool and breezy but still better visibility than 99.999% of Welsh days.
Thanks a lot
Ray.
4/4/81
Simon Lewis } The Brothers
Geoff Turner } Oakover VS
Pete Smith } Via Gelli
18/4/81
Easter Weekend Meet
Pete, Hazel, John Mc, Anne, Pete, Lynne & kids, Simon, Pam, (Bill Leece & sheep impersonator, meet jumpers), Ian, Chris, Ste & Jackie. Phil Ste & Paul arrived later
Simon Lewis Ochre Groove HVS
John Mc Bean Direct Route VS
19/4/81
Leviathan Direct Bill Suth VS
Simon Lewis - "if lichen can stick to it so can Bill"
50% Lavaredo Wall!
20/4/81
Kirkus' Direct } Bill
Cwm Silyn } Simon
Outside Edge: Pam, Anne, John & Mike
May 1981
May Day Weekend:
Sat. Retreat to the coast in search of sun, and find same! Peake and Holligan do Gazebo and Hombre, Easter Island Gully. Sue and Eric find it cold and windy up on Upper Tier.
Sun. It's even worse in Llanberis today, wind, rain etc. etc. but not so bad in Easter Island Gully.
Peake and Hooligan : Big Guts and Exit Groove - both excellent climbs.
Mon. Easter Island Gully??
Park Lane: Holligan and Peake
Simon Lewis & Pete Smith : Imitator and Bezel VS Upper Tier Gogarth
Geoff and Micky Turner. Holyhead Mountain. Plimsole & Sump.
Sat 23rd May - Bank Holiday weekend.
Rain in Pass forced us all to Tremadoc, slightly better there! - Dry!
Eric and Sue Duxbury & Pam - Scratch VS
Simon & Bill S - Scratch Arete HVS
Simon & Eric A/L - The Plum HVS
Bill, Sue, Pam - Christmas Curry S
John, Ed & Jane - Christmas Curry + assorted other pitches.
American tourist to three well clad climbers "Excuse me could I take a photo of your janglies?" - (we didn't even know they were showing).
Sunday
Everyone (and I do mean everyone) was at Tremadoc today! Waited 11/2 hrs for route - got fed up went back to cafe ??? 5.00pm started climbing yipee!
Simon Lewis, John Mc Bean. Merlin Direct - good.
Bill S, George, Pam - Mensor, Niobe
Bill Ed, Jane - Marble Slab etc Bochlwyd.
Eric & Sue - Axeminster - did he lay it.
Monday
Rain everywhere - except Gogarth!
Doubters and disbelievers stayed and festered the others climbed in the sun.
Simon Lewis, Bill Suth Atlantis free great route.
John Mc & Geoff T - RAP Mr T climbing well.
Good weekend despite the attempts of the weather to work us out!
Tues 26/5/81
Sun seekers off to the seaside again. Claw down the horrendously steep wet grass of Easter Island Gully. Slide into Wonderwall zawn.... Geoff has passed out (must be tonic poisoning!) so I'll carry on as what I was there as well. Sea nice and calm so skipped along to Big Gut VS. Mc Bean attempted to throw his watch away but Geoff retrieved it 2 inches above the waterline. The climbing was pleasant though the grass etc above was not.
We was Geoff Turner (ex pres) dairy?
John Mc Bean future pres(?)
Pete Smith (ex pres)
+ me Les Anderson (never pres)
Wed 27th
Cloud, rain, mank.
Drizzle Tremadoc
Pissing down Gogarth
Cleared up late afternoon Tremadoc, Geoff and Pete took advantage and did Yogi. Others festered.
Day notable only for Liverpool's win at Paris.
Thurs 28th
Urged on by reasonable weather at C.F. Geoff and Pete get down to Tremadoc for 9-30 only to find it raining cats and dogs. Immediate departure for Anglesey where we met up with others. Weather excellent, conditions perfect-
Hombre - Kev Flint, Duffy
Blanco - John Mc Bean, Les Anderson
RAP - Malcolm and Terry
Pel - Geoff and Pete
Dirtigo - Geoff and Pete
Lighthouse Arete - Kevin, Terry, Duffy
Fri 29th
As usual raining elephants - all to Tremadoc; all see the light and go home, except Pete and Geoff who slime up Oberon to maintain the daily ave at 1.2 routes/day.
Pam & Simon arrive in evening, Simon's sabbatical year is over on Monday morning - he's got a JOB!
Sat 30th May
Fine weather arrives.
Start at the Grochan
Simon Lewis, Geoff Turner - Brant Direct
off to Dinas Mot
Simon Lewis - Pam Hudley - Western Slabs
Geoff Turner, Pete Smith Western Slabs.
Simon - Cracks solo
Geoff & Pete attempt to beat Warren Harding's record for the longest time spent on a route and only just failed.
Sunday 31st May
Had two hours at Llangefni Leisure Centre climbing wall, really worth a visit on wet days. We've all got forearms like Garth!
June 1981
Mon
Marlaise and Mark went to the Pass and did Nea
M's failed Brant Direct.
Tue
Wed
Marlaise and Mark led at Tremadoc - Christmas Curry Heartbreak Hotel
Weather quite good on the whole, managed to climb in the sunny spells.
It's nice to climb in Wales again but the rain's just the bloody same.
I notice the increasing use of chalk amongst some members with the decreasing no climbs, that's probably the rain though. Don't get hooked, kick the habit, don't become a CHALK JUNKIE.
Sat 13th June
On the THIRTEENTH day of this month it is raining
EVERYWHERE!
July 1981
Tues 1st July 81
New Years Eve, 30th July 1984 - The Bounty Hunters went in search of paradise - 3 men(?) - 8 women - got stuck into ??? new routes - Vulgar Tits, and if one more bloody woman doesn't get my - string I'll have to pull the other one. Named a new route today Position 26 but needed 3 + 8 to complete it. I'm exhausted after the gorge swim, my nipples are killing me, Jim felt a right tit! Owing to the abundance of sheep, the group were spoilt for choice and had to resort to satisfying their primitive urges getting sticky polos stuck on knobs. If the hot water is still not working here try the pool at the bottom of the waterfall.
Activities. (Party of 8 beginners)
Mon - Snowdon Horseshoe 3 ½hrs.
Tues - Bouldering/scrambling Cromlech Boulders
Tyrollean ??? Llanberis Waterfall.
Wed - Intro to rock climbing, Lion Rock Fachwen.
Direct, Ordinary, Rowan Tree, Pulpit, Ivy Chimney - Milestone Buttress.
Thursday - Ordinary, Faith, Hope - Idwal Slabs. Lazarus - Holly Tree Wall. Skiing at Plas y Brenin dry slope.
Sat 27th
Peake and Holligan going for it in the Pass. Three falls and a submission on the Left Wall! John did the Gates afterwards.
Sun 28th
We need that peg on Black Shadow! An excellent first pitch!
Sun 28th
Bill S, Pete, George, Big B here for the day. Where are we going to go?
Tryfan and Munich Climb - very good. George very knackered.
4/7/81
Bill, Pam, Stuart, Anne - Poor Man's Peuterey, Clapton's Crack.
Eric & Sue - PMP and Great Western
21st June
| Dream of White Horses | Les Anderson |
| Andy Hamilton |
| (new graduates) | Mal Ashman |
| John Ford |
3rd July
| Wen | Les Anderson with Pete Kirton |
| Hombre | guess who led the hardest pitches! |
4th July
4th July
Anglo - Australian Expedition.
Norm & Anna, Kevin & Sara
Started well with good traditional trog up Snowdon via Miner's Track. Arrived at summit in thick cloud but gods were with us, cloud cleared to provide our visitors with chance to admire view and take a few photies.
5th July
Weather deteriorated overnight, attempted to climb at Tremadoc but washed from cliffs into cafe, spent day looking at pottery!
6th July
Weather still bad; however headed across to Ogwen via Deiniolen. We managed a guided tour around the Clog factory, Kevin (the Ausie) had an introduction from his climbing gear firm in Sydney which almost got us thrown out, apparently they were behind with their bills!
Walked up to Idwal Slabs in driving wind and rain, actually set foot on some rock!!
7th July
Weather still bad, Norm & Anna went home, dropped us (Kevin & Sara) at Betws, we walked back to Pen y Gwryd just for exercise!
8th July
At last some climbing. Our first ever in UK! A fine afternoon so we did Spiral Staircase and Flying Buttress - lovely view from the top!
9th July
Another fine (well it didn't rain!) day. Off to Carreg Wastad mid-morning. Climbed Crackstone Rib and then Wrinkle. Two more of the classics fall to the Ausies! Home early to clean up in the hut as we leave tomorrow for Pen y Pass YHA. Very many thanks for letting us stay!
S & K
13th July
Kevin and Sara returned briefly to collect some things left here whilst at Idwal Cottage. Friday 10th climbed Lliwedd via Avalanche/ Red Wall/ Longland's Continuation. Saturday rain! Sunday 12th climbed Hope and Tennis Shoe on Idwal Slabs.
10th July
Eaglesfield School Party
Arrived in perfect weather, Cloggy looked beautiful warm and sunny. However in 1 hour clouds and rain had arrived, an omen for the long weekend?
Saturday
Went to Dolgarreg gorge - an interesting day splashing about in the river and climbing slimy waterfalls. At least it wasn't raining but proceeded to get wetter and windier as we walked back to Capel. However, the whole day was a good "giggle".
Sunday
Climbing at Capel Pinnacles. The party ably assisted by Anne Wilkinson. Most managed to get up something and everybody gained their wings as things got progressively harder. However, it was all very pleasant in the warm sun with splendid views down to Snowdon.
Monday
Weather not so good. Although not raining the threat was there but Snowdon was the challenge before our return to the "riots". Reached summit in cloud and through some rain. Lunched on summit and over Lliwedd and surprise it cleared so that we had some views.
Generally a splendid few days with a group of great kids, no complaints at all, hard working and enjoyed every minute of it. So don't despair there are some good youngsters around in these days of riot. Thanks to the Merseyside Club for use of the hut - it was greatly appreciated by all.
12/7/81
Bill S, Mike Lewis, George "Big B" Bowden - yes George "Big B" Bowden
Cloud and rain in the Pass left an obvious choice, Anglesey. Arrived at last and the usual discussion. Castell Helen - RAP - a very good route. Steep and Big B in fine form - well nearly.
18/7/81
Bill S & Pete S
Decameron Rib - Pen yr Ole Wen - good value deserves more frequent use. Followed by mad dash to Pete's Eats - Bliss!
27/7/81
John Thedhen - John Kenton - Dave Bardekin - Clogwyn y Grochan - Brant Direct - Slape Direct - Vaynol to finish the day. J.T's first extreme, he bought the first round!
Flying Buttress & Spiral Stairs, a first for Mick Turner & Geoff (NB Summertime started today)
28/7/81
Mick Turner and Geoff. The Wrinkle followed by a knocked knee, leading to an early tea.
26/7/81
Simon, Pam and Bill S
28/7/81
Jon Thedhen, Jon Kenton - Leg Slip - Chwys (great route technically all the way) Superb day - Beautiful weather.
Maximo Soleil. Mick & Geoff. Crackstone Rib, Rib and Slab.
30/7/81
Super Maximo Soleil. Snowdon horseshoe, the pint in the cafe tasted fantastic, even at 75p a pint.
Mick & Geoff.
29/7/81
Pam, Bill, George, Pete - Bole Way
Bill & Pam - ???
All - pint on the way home - a good day.
August 1981
2/8/81
Simon, John and Bill Mur y Niwl
Memories of Big B dropping onto the scree.
8/8/81
Kate's Meet
Bill & Stewart - Lighthouse Arete, Puffin
John & Sara - Lighthouse Arete, RAP - top pitch.
Martin Kate and ??? ½ the horseshoe.
Mist and not very good weather. Is this really like the Pyrenees!! - we are not too sure of the spelling! Sorry there is a dispute as to the correct spelling.
Very good food and yes we were forced to go for a pint - doctor's orders!!
Sun 9/8/81
Martin, Kate & Montse - Glyder Fawr(?)
Bill, Stewart, Sara & John - Clogwyn y Wenallt - Oxine and Shake.
Kate went for a walk towards Snowdon.
Sat 15/8/81
Arrived back to find Bill and Simon had assembled THE NEW SHOWER. Followed by a slide show.
Wed 26.8.81
Arrived from the deep South (Maidstone) early Thursday morning, brought some sunshine with us and did the Direct Route - Dinas Mot, also Petite Fleur - Craig Ddu
Friday - Great Slab - Cloggy
Sat - Main Scoop Route - Wastad
Sun - Stromboli - Pant Ifan, then it rained.
Off to the Grochan then Maidstone.
Jane & John
September 1981
Thurs 3.9.81
Hazy.
Gave Emily a piggy back to Beddgelert Forest via disused quarry. Paddled in Llyn Cwellyn. (Emily nude). Returned via Moel Cynghorion - Just.
Back to Frisby tomorrow.
See you soon Drod, Jen and Emily.
October 1981
5-8/10/81
Gone home in disgust! Why oh why does it always happen to me! The low of all lows centred over Snowdonia, hurricane and lashing rains incessantly. Went to Tremadoc on Monday, Rain. Did Lockwood's Chimney on the way back - never again!
Tuesday. repulsed by Reade's Route Crib Goch. Rain and sleet on Gambit, Clogwyn y Person
Wednesday. Braich Ty Du, Ogwen, Pinnacle Ridge. Interesting.
Thursday. Completely clocked (pun) going home in a few minutes 11.30. Water level rising rapidly.
Col & Ken
21-10-81
Orville! I returned after some 18 months to find....it's still raining.
Thursday
Weather looking very promising so we set off to Capel. Abandoned the wheels and took to the hills. Bog-hopped our way around and up Moel Siabod and descended the northern slope. Although cold at times, conditions were ideal. Ann's new boots passed their test with flying colours - not a blister in sight. Got ripped off for car park charges by some 84 year old grannie when we returned to the car. An evening spent drinking at P.Y.G. included a "heated" discussion on the subject of setting fire to tourist's cottages.
Friday
Cloud base very low today so we spent an easy day walking above Dinorwic. A local dog decided he would come with us despite all our efforts to deter it (him). Arrived at Caer Fran just in time to help some lost city-type tourist get his car out of a field.
Later on the way to the pub, a drunken local decided to come up the track "for the view" - it was pitch black! When he saw us he tried a 3 point turn and so got stuck. After a half hour of pushing and shoving Dave and I had got nowhere - so Ann went for help and after another ½ hour and two strong fellas we got him out. Dave backed it down the track as the owner was not in any fit state. So be warned - if you see a red Datsun with a rather large gentleman at the wheel run the other way.
Eventually we made our way down to the P.L.H. joined by our 2 helpers.
Ann & Dave Jenkins
The Nick Jones Evil Workmeet.1
Slaves: Bill Sutherland, Stuart Bamforth, Ian Barnett, Barry Mills, Isobel Mills, Lisa Thompson, Andy Thomas, John Ford, Mal Ashman, Ann & Dave Jenkins, Jeanett & Drod Tunstall, Barb & Dave Graham.
25-30 Oct 81
RAF Finningley Party.
Many thanks to M.M.C. for this super hut - without which we would have stayed very wet.
Monday - The Glyders 6" of snow but clear and dry all day. Tuesday - Rock climbing Holyhead Mt. Wed - Tryfan - slightly damp and windy - spent day queueing behind hundreds of other scramblers. Thursday - Snowdon Horseshoe - damp again. Yet more of the party went to "do" Snowdon again. Servicemen must be crazy.
8/10/81 (I'm not quite sure)
Ray Duffy and Jim Paxman (guest) arrived hot-foot (in the car) from Denbigh at 11.00am. The weather was beautiful above 50000 ft where us mortals (people, not drunks) dwell, it's throwing it down.
Dave over to Tremadoc to watch the rain there. Jim noticed a poster which sent us swimming back to Plas y Brenin (£1 for 3 hrs and you can use the climbing wall).
Tried my psychologist's idea of progressive desensitisation by climbing up the wall a little way and
'cause they've got ropes hanging from the centre of the room for that sort of thing. Found great trouble getting back onto the wall as we'd tied on high up so as not to hit the ground, so we didn't. Just hung there waiting for someone to come in and rescue us (we didn't really but the thought had crossed our minds). Visited Brown's, Brigham's and finally North London Club - where we started a brew. Back to Pete's Eats where a daring adventure was compounded by us and the North London roughnecks (Al), vagabonds (Rick) and layabouts (Mike), DEVILS KITCHEN. Tomorrow, daybreak, ropes drawn and runners at the ready. Jim is to act as my second. At fifty paces we begin (climbing). (In case of illness or incompetence (I suffer both frequently so tomorrow is awaited tensely) the second always takes the lead.
P.S. While eating dinner, Jim tried "the board". All was quiet foe 3 secs. I removed my fork from my mouth in anticipation (had my back to him) and sure enough Arghh! Bang!!! Crash!!
21/10/81
Drove over to Capel to do battle with North London but were foiled in our plans as they were creeping off to some outcrop on Anglesey, saying that "the weather wasn't bad enough to do the Kitchen. We went to Tremadoc to avoid further confrontation and spent the first half hour finding out that we'd know* wish to climb most of the routes as either one or the other had done or aspired to do them. Finally arrived at decision to do Scratch Arete. Arrived at the bottom and tossed a coin to select pitches. My double- headed twopence ensured Jim got the top pitch which he led with consumate ease (in about 2 hours) while I creamed the bottom pitch in seconds. Then followed an abortive attempt on Merlin Direct, well we got to the bottom only to find many parties present. Couldn't decide what the team in front were doing, one bloke was belayed in the bottom groove on one rope, his partner was climbing up to him, and both were being belayed by a third on the ground. Then both swopped places and started down-climbing and at that point Jim's harrassing got to me so we went to do The Fang, which I said I would hate, and I did. Doesn't it go dark quick?
31/10/81
Arrived at the hut via Craig y Forwen
Softly, Softly
Left Hand Y Chimney
Route 66
John & Sara Peake
November 1981
1/11/81
Weather perfect for Devil's Kitchen. The North London mob had their annual dinner last night so they should be in terrible shape when we wake them up.
Please leave the following space for the final result of this heroic attempt:-
They'd had two hours kip, smelt of beer, puke and other substances, Al Baker refused to go point-blank, Mick Fowler still asleep but after much harrassing Mike Chapman rose to the bait. God it was horrific. It might be Severe in drought but when Mike was forced, "out of honour" to lead the first pitch, it was about HVS, loose, mossy, green, steep and poorly protected with a long traverse. Well done Mick, the rest of us wobbled precariously on all of it but we topped out soaked to the skin, freezing cold but all the better for the experience. Result: Merseyside 2, North London 1! 3 points to us. THE END.
1/11/81
Possibly off to Anglesey with the backup of Holyhead Mountain.
Found the new shower is no longer!(?)
John & Sara Peake.
14/11/81
Marty Harper & Kate arrived via the Carneddau to find a "Derby Meet". As always the forecast bad but escape is good. Who are this "new shower" anyway?
27/11/81
Sue's Meet
Brave participants: Sue and Eric, Julie Maddox, Ann Wilkinson, Tom Wright, Stewart Bamford, Geoff Turner & Andy Thomas.
Arrived Friday pm in a deluge, still at a loss how to turn on the water supply. Andy disappeared to join "his" meet with Liverpool University at Deiniolen.
Saturday - Geoff and Stewart made an enthusiastic start and ventured up the P y G track to Snowdon and virtually flew down the Miner's Track - sad that they hadn't found any "real" snow, only a bit to slip on. Ann led the "B" team up Cwm Glas onto the Snowdon ridge, down via Telegraph Col. Sue and Andy lead the "C" team back to the hut for convalescence both suffering the effects of bugs various - Eric was the ambulance driver.
December 1981
30/12/81
Arrived in rain but New Year's Eve was great. On the Elidirs & Foel Goch with some views and snow. New Years Day the most glorious ever. On Snowdon via Rhyd Ddu and the ridge. Many bodies, climbers and nobody wanted to go down! Dark walk home! Why is New Year's Day always so good? Today awoke to rain and Head off to Anglesey to visit the Scratton commune.
Marty & Kate Harper.
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