January 1980



1.1.80

Happy New Year! Fullish moon, snow sprinkled 'round Caer Fran. Cloggy black as its name against the snows. What will the 80s do? Will the mad electric engineers litter more of our mountains with those monochromatic fairy lights? A PWR in Cwm Brynog perhaps?

Grey clouds cleared by noon to give a beautiful sunny afternoon. The tops beckoned but we settled for lake sides and Capel Pinnacles.


2.1.80

It's a real effort to leave on such a wonderful morning - cloudless sky, hard frost, tops looking wonderful. Mike Lewis & John Mc Evoy came.

(Late Scrabble score: Mike 132 John 115 Pete 104 Hazel 80)

A fantastic day. Clear skies and snow on the tops. Hazel & Pete walked from Capel to Llyn Crafnant and back.


3/1/80

A great day which started badly, continued badly and ended badly. Guess what? It absolutely persisted down. Gent's bog painted by the firm of Slapiton & Botchit Ltd, painters and decorators to his Eminence Sir Michael Edwards. Downstairs brushed out by Hazel, table scrubbed, shelves wiped and floors mopped courtesy of the National Health Service. No hut fees to pay. Yippee!! (Work day). Another Scrabble game Hazel 185, John 156, Mike 155. Would anybody with any information as to the validity of the word "HO" please enter it further in the log book in very large red letters. Ran out of paint about 5pm so all work stopped.


4/1/80

The rain has washed all the snow away (1,2,3, Aaahh!!) Mike & John to Tremadoc for Oberon and Heartbreak Hotel before hailstones curtail the days activities. An epic on Heartbreak Hotel due to a brilliant piece of mis-grading in the guide - it's VS at least (if not E4!!). Enter (approx 11.00pm) Haston, Bonnington, Scott and Braithwaite complete with a ton and a half of snow and ice gear in preparation for their assault upon the 27,643ft Yr Wyddfa. Depart all snow.


5/1/80

Depart Haston, Bonnington, Scott and Braithwaite for the Pier Head Superdirect.


Captain's Log Stardate 13:13/2

Menai Bridge, the final frontier. Our mission - to seek out new rock forms and boldly pull on runners where no man has used aid before.

Scientific Officer Stock, Chief Engineer Lippy,

Communications Officer O'Hazel and Captain Birk beamed aboard the Starship USS Boobyprize and set off at warp factor 5 towards the Galaxy Srimnox 5 or Anglesey, as it is otherwise known. This galaxy was found to be unfit for human habitation, being too cold, bleak and desolate. After beaming down and inspecting the rock it was found to be of no commercial importance. Returning to base 3 Klingon vessels were encountered and destroyed. Live long and prosper.


6/1/80

Off to Ysfaen Quarry, then home - John & Mike.


25/1/80

Annual Dinner Meet 26.1.80

Friday night

Hazel, Pam, Anne, Rosamond & Pete arrived very late to find Colin & Bill Mossley, Dave & Barbara, Sue & Jane, Mike Lewis & John Mc Evoy already in residence.

We returned almost immediately in preparation for a strenuous(?) Saturday.

Friday night was cold +++ (even my hotwater bottle was not enough protection from the draught from the men's dorm) (there was a hole in the roof professionally repaired by the hut warden on Saturday morning).


Saturday

What a beautiful day! We soon thawed out in the sunshine. The girls did the Caer Fran horseshoe! Mike, John, Dave & Pete - Banana Gully - Y Garn - team division - Dave & Pete - Glyders & Bristly Ridge. The boys strolled down.

Colin paid the top of Snowdon a visit but the hotel wasn't open!


Sat night

Quick change and down to the Dolbadarn for an excellent evening. The food, company and dancing were all very good (the only complaint was that the DJ wouldn't play the latest Nolan Sister's hit!!)

Many drinks later the team returned to Caer Fran - it may have been as cold as Friday but we didn't notice!


Sunday

Mass dispersion...

Thanks for a lovely weekend it was great to see you all again,

Rosamond



February 1980



15th - 17th February 1980

H.P.U. Geology Soc.

Arrived 9-00pm Friday and had a job navigating from car park all the way across the bleak, desolate tundra wasteland to the back door! 10-00 Llanberis. Why are the publicans in this quaint haven of Welsh hospitality so friendly? Anthony was greeted with a haughty "Get out" as soon as he set foot in the pub. When we returned we enjoyed "carry outs" sold to us at extortionate rates "specially reserved for tourists".

Saturday 10.00am. Got up for an early start and climbed Snowdon reaching the summit at 2-00pm. Alison almost abandoned the attempt because of vertigo but a considerate mist reduced visibility to mere inches and she saved face by being unable to see the abyss below. Through occasional brakes in the cloud we were able to see the dramatic scenery of Snowdon.

Saturday night "Simco" took on a plate of curry and followed it with a gallon session. Don't use the toilet for another six weeks (it might be dead by then).

Sunday morning. 11-00am. managed to get out to the Nant Ffrancon. Half the group walked around Llyn Idwal while the others attempted Y Garn. The ascent took about 11/2hours, the descent about 1 hour. We were disappointed to meet a toddler's outing at the summit looking in much better shape than we were. Returned to the house to discuss a society that makes children carry full L-frame sacs and yet outlawed child labour in the mines 150 years ago.

6-00pm Preparing for our return to Huddersfield. No doubt there will be much excited discussion about this trip, past trips and future trips. I shall go to sleep. Thank you for the use of your facilities.

    P Baker

    Anthony P Waters

    Alison Crawley

    J Chase

    X (Simco)

    D Slater

    P Moses

    A Williamson

    M Leary Huddersfield Poly Geol Soc.



April 1980



8.4.80

Nonesuch Youth Club

Arrived at 8.30 after a slow trip from Sutton Coldfield.

Leaders: Ron Parkiss, Lynne Parkiss, Kit Lawson

Gang: Adam Lawson, Ping, Dig, Graham, Karen Turfrey, Jackie Mann, Debbie Haycock, Tessa Freoughty

After a "superb" dinner went down to pub - bad reception! (to say the least)

Had to fix electric kettle this resulted in the lead to the switch being too short thus standing the kettle on the wash basin enables water to be boiled.


9.4.80

A very misty day, cloud at 1500ft and above. Crib Goch in mist with a very cold wind blowing snow on the ridge. Reached Snowdon summit very cold and wet, weather so bad we decided to return via the Llanberis path and hitch hike back to the minibus. A good days walk in spite of the cold weather. Dinner was cooked by the boys of the party, the only person to feel sick was Damian. Tried to light fire in the drying room, smoked out the hut.


10.4.80

A good walking day, cloud above 3000ft. Went to Ogwen, climbed up Devil's Kitchen onto the Glyders, climbed Glyder Fawr and Fach, saw a six year old boy fall down Glyder Fach on snow, unhurt but baddly shaken. The boys of the party went onto Tryfan and the girls and the old man (Ron Parkiss) went down to Llyn Bochlwyd and Ogwen. Celebrated Jackie's birthday in the evening.


11.4.80

Home. Thanks for the use of the hut.


18.4.80

Arrived to find hut in immaculate condition and proceeded to wreck hot water system - sorry folks.

Friday - To Milestone - sacks and boots intending to climb Direct Route and then on to summit of Tryfan. However found many 5 star sunbathing spots on route and didn't quite make Tryfan summit. Also free cabaret in top chimney!! No names mentioned. John & Anne.

Saturday - Set out to climb Parson's Nose - wind tremendous near summit so abandoned route and climbed to Crib y Ddysgl - Snowdon - Lliwedd - Pen y Pass. Carried climbing gear on good walk. So in space of two days had climbed route with full walking gear and walked with climbing gear - early alpine training.

John, Anne & Sheila

Heard rumour!!! Mark Diggins is applying for a pair of wings from Glenmore Stores.

William John Edwards - who already has wings took Jane to Tremadoc and climbed Creagh Dhu Wall and One Step in The Clouds - shorts - Tee shirts!!


18.4.80

Sat. Mick, Geoff, Gavin & Mark went to Gogarth to see if any of that old climbing magic is still retained. It didn't take long for mark to realise that it hadn't as a twenty foot flyer was taken from the finishing holds of Tequila Sunrise. It was as frustrating as trying to peel a banana with boxing gloves.

The climber descended and then ascended in good style.

    Mick and Geoff ascended Pantin & Dirtigo.

    Mark & Gavin 5th Avenue/Tequila Sunrise


Sun. Tremadoc

    Mick, Geoff - Borchgrevinck

    Gavin & Mark - Monkey Puzzle - an excellent route. After failing on two other routes too ridiculous to mention

Mon. Malcolm appeared from Scotland therefore decided to "break in" gently.

Went to Gogarth, climbed Phagocyte and Exit Groove. Phagocyte being the most strenuous HVS I've ever done. It takes an overhanging crack on the Wonderwall.

Tue. Weather didn't look too good went to Tremadoc, wanting to do something reasonable, for the same reason we did Grasper a strenuous route, I got the finishing hold blues again at the top of Grasper through trying to jam over the overhang instead of going for a good edge which I did too late, resulting in a 35' plop into space. I then had to reclimb the whole pitch again and this time with better success.

Wasp was our next route the first pitch of which is a strenuous jam crack at the top of which a small jug appears. Malcolm who was leading clutched hold of this, thinking it's all over, relaxed then pulled up to find no more holds. Those finishing hold blues were heard again and Malcolm dived for a modest 20 footer. His second attempt proved more successful. The second pitch is sustained and v good.

Wed. Attempt on Mangoletsi Direct ended up doing Mangoletsi Ordinary.

Thur. Gogarth again - we ascended the Moon on Yellow Wall which we found both strenuous and sustained. "Situations Strictly Spacewalking" nonetheless an excellent climb, glad to get to the top, a real gripper.



May 1980



Friday 2nd May

Eric, Sue, Mike Lewis, John Mc Bean, Anne W


Sat 3rd May

    Sue & Mike Wrinkle VD Carreg Wastad

    Crackstone Rib S

    Christmas Curry VS Tremadoc

    Borchgrevinck S


Sat 3rd May

    The CZ died R.I.P.


Sun 4th May

    Mike & John Edwards - Brothers VS Tremadoc - Kestrel Cracks VS

    Eric & John - Grotto VS

    Eric & Steve - Merlin VS

    M.Diggins J.Mc Bean - Valour

    A.Wilkins A.Grodcock - Oberon

    A.Wilkins J.Mc Bean - Poor Man's Peuterey

Came out expecting a quiet and peaceful weekend what did we find? Not much room at C.F. !! all the "boys" came out with the sun - equipped with shorts/white pants! & sun hats. Good to see the hut lively again.


Sat 3 May

    Geoff & John - Lighthouse Arete NEW ROUTE via Yellow Wall abseil.


Sun 4 May

    Geoff & John & Jackie - Creagh Dhu Wall


Sun 4/5

    Direct D Mot - John Peake, Pete Smith

    Cracks Geoff Turner, George Bowden

    Llanberis Pass four times Bill Hopalong Sutherland

More refugees in C.F. tonight than in the Iranian Embassy.


Mon 5/5

    The Black Belt C Dhu , well almost, Pete S and G.T. Billy Ed, John P & Mike Lewis? (CASTER ) C Dhu

    OXO John Peake Geoff Turner

    250 miles with a duff angle - Bill Sutherland

Bloody good wheelman.


Sat 10 May

    Gogarth Main Cliff

    The hardest VS in the world - Scavenger - John Edwards & Peake

Weather very hot & close.


Sun 18th May 1980

    S.Milnes, J.Peake - Grochan - Delphos

Only had to be pulled up 3 pitches

Sara


23/5/80

John Peake's New Members Meet

Team arrived Friday night - Eric, Sue, Fred, Bill, John, Mike and Rob Upton New member's meet 2. Whatever happened to enthusiasm? It's alive and well and living in old members obviously.


24/5/80

Sunny skies. Saturday morning and Fred's back got so bad that he had to go home. Everybody else went to Tremadoc. John Peake & Bill did Oberon and Heartbreak Hotel/Merlin as Bill once again touched rock after a six week absence. Eric & Sue did Grim Wall and H Hotel/Merlin and Mike and Rob (the new member after whom the meet was obviously named) did Christmas Curry and Poor Man's Peuterey. John and Eric had a go at Vector but gave up after a 20ft lob by John (a 5.9 from a passing judge).


25/5/80

Awoke to clear grey sky, and so decided to go to Gogarth. George Bowden turned up on an eight hour pass, and the day seemed lost when it began to rain while we were in the cafe. Bill, Rob, George, Eric and Sue went off to do battle with diffs and belay practice at Holyhead Mountain, and John and Mike went for a laugh at the abseil point on Castell Helen. However in about twenty minutes the rain stopped and the rock dried and diffs and belays became

    Simulator (VS) for Eric & Sue

    Puffin start/Pantin finish (VS) for Mike and John

    Pantin start/Puffin finish (S) for Bill, George and Rob

Which made a pretty reasonable day out of one which didn't promise too much (I just wish some of my birds were like that!!). The day was topped off by another excellent meal and even more wine.


26/5/80

Bill, John, Rob and Mike saved 3 lives on the Great Orme. We're pretty modest really so don't mention it around.



June 1980



1/6/80

    PuffinS.Milne
      J.Peake
      P.Hindley
      J.Edwards
    SimulatorJ.Edwards & P.Hindley
    StrandE.Roseberry
    PhaedraS.Lewis



July 1980



12/7/80

    Meshach John Edwards - Simon Lewis

    Helsinki Wall

    Quartz Icicle (Pitch 1) E Holligan J Peake



August 1980



1/8/80

Kate Jones' Meet

Fri. Present: Kate Jones, Nick Jones, Dave & Barbara Graham, Anne Wilkinson, Bill Sutherland, Bill Moseley, Mike Lewis, John Mc Evoy, Phil Kennedy (guest) and Ian Yarroll. Every one arrived safely, had tea and toast and went to bed.


2/8/80

Sat. Ian, Phil, Mike, John climbed in the Pass and did

    The Cracks (all) MVS, and

    Western Slabs (Ian & Mike) VS, on the Mot, and John and Phil did Crackstone Rib S and Wrinkle VD on Carreg Wastad before rain caused an adjournment to Pete's Eats.


26/8/80

Arrived Wednesday after travelling through thick mist over Denbigh Moors up past P y G and the Pass. However all cleared to give very good warm dry weather for one whole week.

Saturday saw us walk up Slate Quarry Road before turning up Moel Eilio and over Foel Gron & Foel Goch & finishing up Moel Cynghorion. We retraced our steps and walked down Telegraph Col soon to be renamed as they are chopping them all down!

Tuesday dawned fine so we managed a long thrash up Snowdon with 1001 other people and their dogs. One 70 year old man did not make it collapsing and dying just after Cloggy station not 5 minutes before we arrived. What a contrast after Moel Eilio where we only saw perhaps 8 other people at most.

We kids, Julian age 9 & Germaine & enjoyed the walks and would like to come back for more if we can drag our parents out.


29/8/80

Nonesuch Youth Group arrived at 12.30 on Friday.

The party consisted of leader Ron Parkiss, Andy Sullivan, Adam Lawson, Steve Jubb, Graham Jubb, Damien Pinguey, Mike Bower, Tim Shore, Uddhaw Vaishanpahas, Ian Rain Smith, Tessa Feroughty.

The weather was wet, cold and uninviting. The party decided to attempt the summit of Snowdon in the afternoon. Uddhaw and Ian decided to stay in the hut and make the dinner. When we arrived back they were still playing cards and had forgotten to make the dinner - typical!

At 7.45 Tessa arrived from Edinburgh and we all had dinner. In the evening we all went down to the local pub but were not very well received!

On Saturday, bright and early we drove over to Ogwen and sat in the car until the rain stopped. By 12.30 we were on our way up Pen yr Ole Wen having avoided the rain. We reached the summit but could see nothing as we were surrounded by cloud. The descent was not so easy and we ended up wandering around on the side of the mountain. Eventually we saw through the cloud the end of lake Ogwen so we scrambled down towards it, Andy went round to the other end of the lake where the cars were and came and picked up the other two drivers.. We arrived back at 6.00 ish. Uddhaw had done the whole walk/climb in wellingtons! That evening most people played cards continuously and after dinner we had a heated discussion on religion, politics, ghosts and anything else which cropped up.

Sunday morning the party were disinclined to attempt another walk although the weather was a lot better. Hope to come again sometime.



September 1980



Saturday 27th Sept

Bill, John and Eric headed to Tremadoc - Terantulus* supposedly VS AT LEAST 5a!

Followed by an attempt at an epic on Diadic. Unfortunately failed as common sense demanded we ascended One Step since it was going dark(ish). Sod common sense in future, "epics are always good food" (E Holligan). Never mind, Martin Lacey is back on the scene, so watch out for future editions.

*Tantalus (Ed)


Sunday 28th Sept

It's 10 past 8 and they,re not up yet! E.J.H.



October 1980



10/10/80

Decided we had better write in the log for once as no one else seems to these days.

We arrived at Corris near Dolgellau at 2.45 am this morning from London/Milton Keynes. Awoken at 7.30am with a cup of tea which wasn't much appreciated. A good day followed on Cader Idris in rain, wind & snow but otherwise it was really nice!

Drove to Llanberis where joined later by Jane & John. Had a lie-in this morning then set off for Carneddau. Good day in quite good weather. The first snow of the winter underfoot - can't be bad!

Sheila & Anne


21.10.80

Arrived in the pouring rain for my 1st weekend in the hut since my finals. Departed next morning cos it was still pouring down.

Pete & Hazel



November 1980



30.11.80

Hudds Poly Geol. Soc.

Present J Chase David Cartwright

S Mottson M Leary

A ??? M Stoddard

Greg Puterel A Simcock

Bev Boedley Tim Mitch

Brian Woodhead Pam Moses

Friday arrived 00.00hr Leader: Buck Stoddard

Navigator: Simco

Friday - demo in London - Maggie! Maggie! Maggie! Out! Out! Out! S Morrison cannot spell - just as well I'm writing. London had a blizzard - 1st in living memory. Piccadilly tube line - Bev Boedley - asleep as per usual. 2 people suffered from snow blindness - could read the magazine of the man opposite them.

The group is becoming argumentative partic. S Morrison - The Yorkshire Rebel.

Jez's driving - atrocious - stopped by police, & minibus - shit. Despite 2 members taking Mountain Leadership Course there is a lack of authority characteristic of Geol Soc outings 1/2 group go 1 way 1/2 go the other - every time. Had some trouble finding the A5 M Stoddard takes responsibility.

The house was triple booked - shock horror people in our beds - we soon sorted that out.


Saturday

Usual early Geol Soc start - porridge for breckers. Snowdon from the S Ridge - worse than the Eiger - we tried to sanction A Simco - but no, he doesn't roll down the hill that easily.

Didn't make the top - fading light - due to our indecisive leaders - common sense and brute force won through in the end. Snowball fights on the peak from the summit - we also had lunch there. S Morrison got a snowball from J Chase in the temple - it aggravated his ID and persisted in retaliation all the way down.

Evening - curry for din din then a race to Bangor to catch the begining of Dallas - boring. Bangor Union - shit - no students go there. Gregg wanted to purchase cheap Owd Rodger - but unfortunately - sold out Bah! Not to worry - he was tipsy on 21/2 pints of ordinary bitter. Bar shut 10.30 - shock horror! Bangor asleep by 10.35.

Sunday good early start.

Going to Cwm Idwal & Tryfan - who knows if we will get back.

Sub note. M Stoddard - found a new game - addict already - the pipe and board - how long can you balance on it?

    T Micham 2 mins 05 secs

    G Pickard 2 45 with bricks

    M Stoddard 0 2½

When the game catches on nationwide you'll know it didn't come from California or Hawaii but Llanberis N Wales - something to tell your grandchildren.

Thanks for having us despite the overcrowding - we were beginning to show signs of abberant behaviour - overcrowding stress - the next step would have been homosexual tendencies thank goodness we only stayed the weekend.



December 1980



Tuesday 2nd December

Arrived at approx 6 o'clock after eating in Pete's Eats.

Hazel drove, only one epic (By the Crown pub 900 bend) we went round on two wheels despite screams from co pilot to break. Rest of the journey was uneventful.

Mucky lot from Huddersfield left Caer Fran dirty.

Late night, bedded down by 9pm. unable to sleep as normal due to nightmares about G.N.C. result.


Wednesday

Up early. Weather good and cold. Failed to reach summit of Dinorwic again but had a good day.

A swab has been taken and sent for culture sensativity from the cracks in the table. Results will follow - don't miss next exciting entry.


Thursday

Pete's birthday (he doesn't look 25 does he?). Snow and blue skies had been ordered the previous evening but alas we could not be let down again. So with blue skies over Anglesey we headed out to the Wrights with their left overs from Caer Fran. Had a really nice walk along the coast. Pete reckons he has found a new cliff face to climb. I drove over but I'm not allowed to drive at night due to my fancy footwork on the pedals.

P.S. On my way to Anglesey I had to stop on the main road as a jet had the right of way.


19 - 20 Dec 1980

Pre Christmas Festivities Meet.

Present: Dave & Barb Graham, Bill Leece, Drod & Jeanette Turstall, Eric Roseberry, Sue Duxbury, John Edwards, Jane Gander, John Mc Bean, Anne Wilkinson, Bill Sutherland, Nick Jones, Simon Lewis.

For those who were available for Christmas tree and holly finding Saturday proved a worthwhile day. It was snowless, iceless, but there was plenty of rain. After several pints and a protracted game of darts at the P.L.H. a satisfactory amount of holly and a suitable tree were obtained.

The dinner provided its usual surprises after an ever increasing party had returned from trying to find a "footy Echo" (there was no dog to take for a walk).

Sunday started in similar vein to Saturday and indeed most of the year in that it was customarily wet. Most people decided on a vaguely compulsory walk round Llyn Idwal before returning home to watch the skiing. However a friendly break in the persistent rain saw Dave and Bill (by the North West Ridge) and John, Anne & Simon (by the Devil's Kitchen and subsequent slope) ascend Y Garn in ever improving quality snow (ie bloody slushy at the bottom and hard but melting at the top).

Merry Christmas 1980 to all our readers and a "Guid New Year"


29th Dec 1980

The "Auld Firm" returned to beat the increase in hut fees ( we won't be able to afford to come next year). After a determined ascent of Moel Siabod in wet, windy and warm conditions. Dave & Alan were very pleased to get to the hut.

Tuesday dawned pretty similar to the rest of the year wet and windy and after several ascents around the world (thanks to the numerous magazines in the hut library) a visit was made to the P.L.H. and Pete's Eats, Pete's Eats again and John Jackson's for a pre New Year noggin. (It should be noted that much to the boy's relief it didn't stop raining until dark).

Wednesday we suspect will be wet and an early dart home for the festivities with our respective spouses is in order.

Happy New Year to you all. See you at the Dinner or on page 27 of "Classic Rock" round about June 20th 1981.


Have a good one.

Alan Mullock & Dave Graham.


30th Dec '80

Mike Lewis arrives at 6.10pm after leaving Warrington at 4.20pm and smashing world land speed record (and world air speed record for piston engines under 1000cc at one point). No one here. Off to Pwllheli to a party. See everyone tomorrow.