14/1/79

Bill Mosley's New Year Meet

Sat. Blinding sunlight glistening on 100 square miles of frozen snow. Mark & Geoff set off for Clogwyn y Person after watching one party putting on crampons at the road! An hour later they watched as 3 men skateboarded an avalanche near Parsley Fern. Sinister gully gave superb ice & a good time to the top where huge plumes of spindrift added to the lurid sunset and later to the moonlight walk to C.F. over Cynghorion. Meanwhile at Cloggy, Colin's friend Ken with a suspected # ankle having unsuccessfully emulated Alf Bridges, off the ice, drew sidelong glances from the tourists as he hopped down Snowdon with both hands round Colin's neck. Neville and Bill went up to Telegraph Col where Neville carried on over Snowdon & Bill retreated to the stove. Priorities were restored in the evening when Blind Pew led the way to the Padarn through the snow on one leg with the yard brush under his arm.

Sunday. Weather back to normal, Sunday papers & tea & tea & tea. (Beware - like a lot of things the weather seems to be affecting the ballcocks. Ladies loo and the one in the loft both over flowed through the holes where the overflows should be!).

20th January 1979

Bill Sutherland, Eric Roseberry, Graham Lipp, Mark Diggins.

An aureate day but plenty of snow - trekked up to Cloggy through deep soft snow hoping to do Boomerang Gully although on the way up we thought this would be optimistic. We ascended the ice falls and ??? to the face of the gully and then proved to be excellent although rather murky. Lo and behold when we arrived at the main gully base the gully was found to consist of rock-hard neve, superb condition. We all soloed this to the top where we were greeted by icy blasts of a hurricane which quickly turned us into snow men. We descended to the railway and then Caer Fran. Went to Padarn for a couple of pints returning to hut early to show slides. Bill produced his cinemascope lens for his projector - good photographs.

Sunday 21st

Weather fantastic - blue skies - snow whiter than white - Someone mentioned the Trinities and we decided to try to do all three gullies in the one day, As it turned out we managed to climb all three gullies in 2½ hrs.

RH Trinity took us 1½ hrs, we roped up for a short section just at the crux - The snow was in really excellent condition although a bit more ice on the rocks would have added security. We finished in brilliant sunshine at the top. We then descended Central Trinity which produced one short ice section. We then shot up Left Hand Trinity and in a state of near exhaustion and hallucinations which featured pints of bitter shandy. We arrived at the summit - a historic occasion for Eric, this was his first time on Summit of Snowdon in 16 years of climbing in Wales. The sky was still cloudless but the now red sun had turned the surrounding mountains into a beautiful copper hue. We descended down the zig zags and then onto the Miner's Track arriving back at the car after nightfall - returned to the hut and drained two huge pots of tea.

Mark

27 - 29th Jan

Weekend of Annual Dinner 1979

Sat. A huge party headed towards Cloggy. When there the girls went back while the boys played at ice climbing. Two others managed an ascent of Boomerang Gully amidst deep powder snow. The weather was fantastic, most people returning with a sun tan whilst Pete took on the appearance of a beetroot.

Geoff's speech at the dinner was given 10 out of 10 for quickly bringing everybody to their knees in fits of laughter.

Sunday was an anticlimax - snow drifted outside the hut so we all went home.

John Peake

Sat 3rd Feb

Off to Anglesey to try some walking and fishing.

J.Peake S.Roberts M.Burns P.Sulivan

9th March

11.45pm Friday night Janet (Ainsworth), Sue Duxbury, Glyn Allcock & Me (Helen) arrived out in a brand new T reg Chrysler Horizon!! 1.15pm the three other weary members arrived for the meet ie Pete Liptrot, Rosamond, and Mark Diggins. After coffees we retired.

Sunday 10th March

Breakfast between 10 - 10.30am. Leisurely start to a leisurely day. The big question - what are we going to do? Mark saved the day by suggesting going up Gault Yr Orgof by a path none of us had been up before. Stopped in Capel on the way.

Excitement of the day - after we had ascended up this steep grassy path there was a rock fall and great big boulders fell onto the path. If it had been 5 minutes before - well! Went up to the top of the col and then down to Wilkinson's Farm.

Oh yes - I nearly forgot, I didn't know how to switch the water on & it was only after 10 minutes I remembered - oh dear - I was nearly a failure of a "meet leader".

6 - 9th April

R.L.H. Real Live Happening!. Sue & Pete arrived on Friday 11.30pm.

Sat. Attacked Tryfan N Ridge in the snow, Sun. To Betws y Coed to do a cheeky little route behind the Silver Fountain pub. Rain stopped play - shame.

13th April

Another visit from the frozen north for a overnight stop.

Malcolm Hodges.

14th April 1979

Easter Saturday

After watching the reds take another casual step towards yet another championship? Arrived to find Millwall supporter John Mc Bean in the foetal position on the dining room table. When revived he explained to Barb & Myself, Lou & Denny that it was because of the terrible plight of his one true love. Millwall are destined for the third division. Anyway we are here to enjoy the mountains and here we go.

15th April 1979

Easter Sunday

Arose leisurely in true M.M.C. fashion and were woken by George Bowden and a big yellow thing in the sky. After much debate (John Mc lost) we decided on Outside Edge on Cwm Silyn and the Nantle Ridge. Arrived at Cwm Silyn to find that it was suffering from acute bank holiday congestion, so on to the Ordinary Route. Barb and Lou went to the top of the crag and the rest of the team had a very enjoyable first couple of hours of the year on the rock. Gerorge retreated at the top to venture home and avoid getting on a fizzer. The rest strolled, walked, stumbled, crawled, rolled, collapsed along the ridge to Capel "for the best three pints in the world" before the hoards arrived. Tea at 10.30pm!! and off to bed and a touch of the Colin Hardy's from John.

16th April 1979

Recovery day, sorry, Easter Monday.

11.00am Breakfast over and still the decision has to be made where to go today. John's losing again but the sun's shining so who cares, Happy Easter everybody, See you soon.

17th April 79

Pete, Rosey & Sue arrived to find Simon & Pam, John & Les, Andy & Jenny already here (or in the Padarn). Les fell into a bog (not the ladies) on the way back. Mc Bean, drunk as usual*, went on an attempted rape and pillage without a great deal of success.

*Well done youth!!

Wed. Pete, Rosey and Sue breezed up the N face of Tryfan, down the back, & up onto the Glyders via Bristly Ridge. The sun was scorching all day with snow on the tops making a magic combination. Hero Liptrot navigated down a "breathtaking" gully (not quite the one intended) bringing us down by Idwal Slabs.

14 - 18th May '79

West Brom College.

Colin Hardy, Blanche, Lesley, Mangula, Karen.

Col

25.5.79

Eric, Bill, Pam & Simon, Barb & Dave and a rare visit from John Craig.

A drizzly Saturday saw most people at Anglesey where drizzle was bearable. Bill & Eric carrying on in usual extremist vein did U.F.O. Simon & Dave did Sump Direct and Cursor on Holyhead Mountain, the girls going for a natter and a walk. John went for a walk on Snowdon spending a pleasant break in the Halfway House.

Sunday was more promising and Bill & Eric disappeared to Gogarth to do Winking Crack and returned confessing that there were numerous broken bottles around the bottom of the cliff now! Pam, Simon, Barb and Dave progressed to the Moelwyns, Pam & Simon venturing up Slick or was it Slack? and Dave and Barb do numerous short difficulties including several moves of the Hard Diff standard. The girl is progressing - could this be the start of a new era in women's climbing circles. John had a gorgeous day traversing Crib y Ddysgl and Crib Goch and enjoying a higher level of cup of tea in the Snowdon Summit Cafe. A finale to the days activities was drunk in the Swallow Falls Hotel. Tomorrow looks promising.

Yesterday today looked promising, today, well! Geoff Turner may not believe this but it's better out here now than on the Scotland Meet. Well not quite.

See you all in Newlands

Dave G.

8th June 1979

Mark, Simon & Pam arrived at hut on Friday night managing to put in a route rather than go to the pub for a pint - listen to this! We started off on Superdirect on the Mot at 9.30 having to finish after the second pitch because it was dark. Simon confirmed that before he started on the second pitch he had to close his eyes and then open them again in order to become accustomed to the dark. A brilliant pitch - must return.

John Peake arrives 10.00am in search of climbing partners for a Kamikazi mission. Nobody around. Dep 10.15am.

9th June 1979

Mark Diggins Quartz Icicle
Simon Lewis

Pam Hindley Various routes, Holyhead Mountain Anne Wilkinson

Geoff Turner Tremadoc:- The Brothers
Eric Holigan Striptease
John Peake Christmas Curry

Climbing consisted of battling for position to avoid carrying THE HEX. Otherwise climbing consisted of sunbathing outside the cafe and complaining about how hot the only sunny place in Wales was or fixing a motorbike.

10th June

A very small account of a very good day. Cloggy. Eric Holigan & Geoff Turner:- Chimney Crack & Narrow Slab.

17th June 1979

Eric Roseberry VECTOR
Bill Sutherland

A fantastic route, incredible position. Sorry about the printing too knackered to write.

Tested new bivvi gear outside of hut. Does this mean that we can claim a refund on the nights stay. Bivvi bags worked well. "No sweat".

Eric & Bill

30th June - 1st July 1979

An exodus to Gogarth the team included Ken, Geoff, Eric, Bill, Mark, Billy Ed, and Pete.

Eric and Bill retreated for Blind Pew and then ascended a combination of Park Lane / Doomsville. XS.

Ken, Geoff & Mark ascended Times Square a very fine route and then - we claimed a "first" - Geoff Turner our climbing President climbed his first extreme Park Lane / Doomsville in fine style.

Meanwhile the camera pans to another part of the cliff and the lithe movements of Billy Ed and Pete were quite distinct form the rest of the mob as they ascended Imitator & Bezel.

Sun.

Gogarth Yes again.

7 hours sees Bill & Eric up Ratrace
Mark & Karen up Gauntlet & Scavenger
Geoff & George up Pantin & Simulator

Sat 7th July

7am Eric Gatecrasher awakes.

7.01 Everybody else awakes and then most of them fall asleep again.

It is now 9.25am and the debate is starting: what's everybody doing? 9.30am No decision as yet. Gogarth has been suggested, there is a discussion of an ascent of Snowdon. Inevitably we all decide the first step is to be a climbing shop.

Stop Press 9.31am We're going to Gogarth! (Pete, John, John, Mark)

On reflection little did we know what awaits the intrepid four, but especially what was to be the fate of one member of the team. Billy Ed led off the 1st pitch of Dream.

Upon the crux there occurred

A PEEL

John William Edwards
Crux, Dream of White Horses
8th July 1979
1.30pm

30 - 40 ft
XXXXXXXXXX length
XXXXXXXXXX Artistic Impression
X Verbal Impression
XX Injuries
XXXXXXXXXX Luck
XXXXXXXX Overall Impression
Witnesses: John Peake P Liptrot M Diggins

Pete Liptrot's Meet. - The above is an unofficial report of what happened at Gogarth on the 7.7.79.

Present - Bill Moseley, John Peake, John Edwards. Mark Diggins, Sue Duxbury and Jane (?) Dave & Barbara Graham booked on for the Sunday. Unofficially present were Little (Early Riser) Eric, Bill Leece and The President*.

An early rise followed by a late departure saw the boys off to Gogarth, the girls up to Telegraph Col and Bill & Geoff on to Snowdon.

John, John, Mark and myself successfully finished Dream Of White Horses after a somewhat shaky start. See above.

Bill & Eric - Rift & The Strand

Geoff Turner having just caught Bill going.

*Did not pay for his night's accommodation. Tut tut.

11.8.79

Andy Stewart, Steve Pennington. A good 8 hours on the Glyders starting with Tennis Shoe and continuing to the top with Lazarus, Groove Above and Central Arete Direct (the latter done in mist and drizzle). On to the Glyders plateau and into heavy rain, retreated down the Gribin Ridge

2.8.79

Miserable weather in Llanberis saw an exit to a wet Tremadoc, though there was a sufficient break at 3pm (after much drinking in the cafe) to go and climb Creagh Dhu Wall, a superb climb.

25/8/79

The August Bank Holiday weekend and only 5 in the hut Myself, Pete Smith, Billy Ed, John (I just got engaged) Peake, Eric & Bill.

A late arrival but we managed a quickie in the Pass. John & John on Kaisergebirge Wall, Eric & Bill on Brant Direct. Not Many people about.

Down to the Padarn for a swift half where Bill was poisoned by Wm Youngers and Co Ltd and spent an uncomfortable and cold night in a small room at the back of the hut.

26/8/79

Sunday saw a cloudy day in Llanberis so the usual exit to Big G. Eric & Bill over to the Upper Tier and an ascent of Fifth Avenue. John & John went down to do Mouse Trap but could not get started in view of the state of the tide. They were in however informed by the tourists that ropes were not required for an ascent of the lighthouse steps. Eric & Bill returned from the Upper Tier and made a rapid ascent of Red Wall. Bill was very disappointed that Reginald Bosenquet was unavailable to interview him when he reached the top. John & John did the top pitch of Atlantis in the close company of none other that Jean Claud Droyer.

27/8/79

John & Eric & Bill - Pentathol - a fantastic day.

31st August

Poor Man's Peuterey J.Peake

S.Milnes

The ascent was one of the most embarrassing experienced. Not withstanding Sara's brilliant white BRAND NEW EBs, NEW BOOTS, NEW BREECHES, NEW SOCKS and NEWISH HARNESS, I arrived at the foot of the crag with, still in its poly bag, yes! you can read correctly, with A NEW ROPE. No more 6yr old ropes and rusty cables any more!

Otherwise, despite the looks from others a good day, very windy and not many people around. There's a sign of winter in the air. Not long now till the rusty axes and crampons are made ready for use.

3-9-79

Al Salam Alikum

After a full 15 months away from the crags a harrowing day I had at the mercyless hands of Tonto, thinking that I was in need of a reintroduction to N Wales climbing I found myself today at approx 12.30 being lured up the first pitch of a route called Vector?? at Tremadoc. Later in the day we did Meshach which was more reasonable.

For Sale - Full set of climbing gear or will swap for knitting pattern and needles! Tonto.

3/9/79

Vector XS Simon Lewis, Martin Lacey
Meshach HVS (must be 5b!)

4/9/79

Central Park HVS Simon Lewis, Martin Lacey
Fifth Avenue (pulled on peg)

5/9/79

Off to Dinas Mot - Superdirect XS Simon & Martin

See you all around Christmas - Tonto (bloody liar!)

Sun 23.9.79

Crackstone Rib Sara Milnes
Skylon John Peake

As a beginner I feel quite chuffed with myself for completing Skylon with no hassle other than exhaustion. And at least the new gear doesn't look new any more.

S.Milnes

Saturday Sept 29th

Ribstone Crack VS Simon & Pam
Wrinkle VD Pam & Simon

Funny road that coast road - the grass banks throw themselves under the wheels of your car - at 60mph! (good job I was driving)

Sun

Lighthouse Arete MVS Simon, Pam, Billy Ed

Friday 6th October

Glynn Allcock and friend arrived from Liverpool and London respectively. I (Glynn) have just finished my first week at college so I couldn't wait to get away. This is the first time I have been to the hut with no one else here so it took me half an hour to get the hot water working. By the way I still havn't got my hut key...

Sat 7th

Leisurely start to the day with breakfast in bed brought to me by my faithful companion. We then drove up to Pen y Pass and followed the hoards up Crib Goch and then after a brief sleep up onto that wonderful mountain... Snowdon... with its mars bar wrappers and orange peel. We managed to find a small space at least six feet from out nearest companions where we ate our "plastic" ham sandwiches and compulsory mars bar. However I was unable to get a fix on it as I was too cold.

By the way the fire has fused twice.

Fri 19th Oct

Could this cause an international dispute? Using Caer Fran and then going canoeing on Anglesey the next day. Sorry about this Mr President, Sir - no I havn't sold all my climbing gear and hung up my EB's for ever... Yet!

I was even going to the Verdon Gorge this last week but had to change my plans at the last minute. No it wasn't me - my so-called friends who I was going to meet out there telephoned the night before I was due to leave, said they were in Calais and had been sitting in tents in the pissing rain for over a week. I couldn't believe it - rain in the South of France. Somebody must have a grudge against me!

I had a great time in the Alps in the summer - a whole six weeks. The only thing was I didn't have a penny to my name when I got back. In fact I owed the Midland Bank a fair few pennies! Anyway five weeks solid graft in a distillery back home sorted that out... Working in a distillery - that's another story! If anybody is interested I'm trying to get a job in Aviemore teaching skiing over the winter. If you are making a pilgrimage to the far north and decide to brave the slopes of "sunny" Cairngorms. If you see a bronzed handsome, virile ski instructor wearing shades - that's me!!!

I'm afraid I won't see you at the AGM - with a bit of luck I'll be hitting the big time, washing dishes on an oil rig in the North Sea.

Thanks for all the great times I have had with you lot in the last 3 years I have some really good memories - some nightmares as well - but some great times!

See you when I see you, Hamish Jock Mc Sporran Thistle Graham. X

(Call me what you want I don't care!)

23rd

Two off duty angels taking a break from saving lives, cleaning bums and washing bed pans arrived late at night to find hut nice and clean. Two lazy days spent (Tut tut) even though the weather was good.

The shower unit in the ladies loo is bust again, and the ladies loo is still leaking, sorry but not having got my loo fixer certificate I couldn't fix it.

Back dated entry - Sat 29th

- Billy Ed myself & my better half spent a great day doing Parson's Nose turning left at the top and coming down via Crib Goch.

Sunday Whilst the hard rock men and women were on Gogarth, we went swimming, Hazel fully clothed, it's more fun that way.

See you soon

Take care

Pete & Hazel

P.S. King Freddy is back in the kitchen:- for those who don't understand - Mice are back.

Sun 28th October

Bored with our several consecutive visits to Trento (?) Gardens we decided to return to Wales to do some CLIMBING. After several man hours work Pete was modified into an RDYD 3502505. However, still coming round from the operation he was a little temperamental. However he planned his fits of anger well, his plugs needed changing when he came to a halt conveniently outside a cafe in C bay, and we ran out of petrol 200yds from a garage in Bangor. The bone of contention was whos fault it was that the choke was left on! You can spend many happy days arguing!

The weather was obviously foul all weekend as nobody saw fit to mention Kate's meet and I wouldn't be surprised if some festering occurred tomorrow.

We rose late to glorious sunshine, having been pessimistic as to this prospect (theory being that the weather is the same as the previous day 70% statistical probability). We set off rather late to do Petite Fleur taking one bike, the aforementioned Pete the Yam. We got a mile down the Pass and the throttle cable broke so we drove back to Llanberis, John steering and myself being a throttle, he kept forgetting to tell me when he was changing gear! John fiddled with the bike for a bit, then we both went to Caernarfon to buy a throttle cable, lots of spark plugs and a CX 500 for me and a 400 dream for John but the cheque card only allows up to £50 so we settled for the smaller item.

Meanwhile back in Llanberis John changed cable, I festered in Pete's Eats. A good time later I returned to where I'd left John, he was gone, P the Y was gone and the CZ remained with the key in the lock. "He must have gone back to the hut" I thought, where I duly went searching to no avail. Meanwhile in the village John was looking for me, so futile.

Eventually we met up, I was walking and John on the Yam, we swapped over and I thought John was bringing the CZ (complete with rucsac and much valuable climbing equipment). We went in Pete's Eats and about an hour later lots of coffee and feeling well fed we decided to go. It was then that John told me his bike must have been stolen cos it wasn't there when he looked for it. Unfortunately it was, so we went to the pub and got drunk. My mother has suggested that we have communications problems.

S.Milnes J.Peake

Sun 28th

Chasm Route - Glyder Fach main Cliff - a visit to the Cantilever - Glyder Fach - Castle in the Wind and descent by way of the Gribin.

Andy Stewart, Paul Hemming

9-11-79

Arrived lateish on Friday night. Weather is rather bad even for Llanberis. Delayed somewhat by an accident in the Pass - a car tried to throw itself over the wall.

10-11-79

It rained a bit more today... did a short walk over Crimpiau and down to Llyn Bychan passing thro' a forest of burnt dead/dying trees; really weird.

11-11-79

Not only is it raining hard but it's blowing hard too. So we're going home.

(both toilets were leaking so I adjusted the ball c..ks which fixed aforementioned fault).

16.11.79 - 18.11.79

Wirral Rambler's Meeting

Saturday 17/11 - Weather bad low cloud, driving rain. Low level walk around Dinorwic Slate quarries.

Sunday 18/11 - Moel Eilio, Moel Cynghorion, Snowdon.

30/11/79

Mike Lewis and John Mc Evoy would just like to say a big hello to everybody as this is the first time we've been in the hut as members. HELLO. The only bother is, it's raining!!

1/12/79

Arose (is this proper English?) at about 10.00am and after feasting on beans on toast set off under a clear grey sky to go to Idwal (just for a change). Unfortunately it started drizzling, so we did Hope and came home. Also had Jo & Mo worried on the darts board in the P.L.H., with Mc Evoy playing like a man possessed.

Sun 2/12/79

Woke up this morning, don't believe what I saw - or rather didn't see. After yesterdays dreadful weather this morning greets us with clear black skies, 70mph winds & rain. BUT, the scenic views are spectacular, through the driving rain we think we almost saw Llanberis.

See you soon

Stan Laurel & Oliver Hardy

Sat 8.12.79

Arrived Friday night, heavy rain all the way out. The lean- to extention is leaking again, also beware of the "stop cock" upstairs, it is sticking open a little, resulting in a leak overnight and a big pool in the kitchen next morning.

Saturday and more rain. Had a little walk around Ogwen and then back to the pub for a pint.

Sunday. Another wet day so we are off home. See you at the annual dinner if not before.

Take care

Pete & Hazel

21/12/79

Arrived 10.00pm to find clear starry skies and sub-zero temps. This could be the first weekend of good weather for two years!

22/12/79

Mc Evoy makes alpine start & pot of tea followed by brecky. Weather very cold but a superb clear blue sky, snow on tops and SUN! Avalanche, Red Wall and Longland's game postponed (again) Snowdon Horseshoe abandoned (too risky). Finally decide on Moel Siabod via eastern(ish) ridge descending via N.E. ridge. Lots of knee deep snow still v soft - takes a stud but not an axe. East facing gullies packed with 2 - 3ft of soft snow - aeroplane has been removed from summit.

Down to P.L.H. and didn't get anyone worried at darts, never mind Joe & Mo!!

30.12.79

Arrived 10.30pm after interesting journey through hail and snow showers. Ran off the road at exactly the same spot where Bill Sutherland did 2 or 3 years ago; fortunately I bounced back onto the road! Found a Volkswagon Estate in a ditch round the next bend and managed to extract him with the aid of a few slings and krabs. The promising conditions of last weekend seem to have disappeared.

Woke up to a reasonable morning - going for a walk on the Carnedds.

31.12.79

The Wrights saw the decade out pottering around the disused quarries. Sunshine and snow on the tops made a pleasant end to the year.