January 1978
Friday 6th Jan 1978
Approx 2 weeks ago - Decided to go to Scotland - to camp at CIC hut on the Ben. Alas engine was removed from transport (3 - wheeler Reliant - ?). Complete rebuild - ready for Scotland. (about 5 days climbing). All food and extra gear bought. Time off work arranged by working Bank Holiday overtime and taking annual leave (Steve)
Approx 1 week ago - engine overheats cylinder head gasket blows. Huge masses of smoke and fumes. Car evacuated. Green Godess arrives! (on New Year's Day!)
2 days later engine rebuilt - all set for Scotland. Left Liverpool for Scotland via Llangollen.
10 miles later - engine overheats - car evacuated. Possible radiator leak.
10 tins of radiator seal later - left for Scotland from Llangollen.
10 miles later - engine overheats - car evacuated.
1 day later (should be camping on Ben Nevis). Car running great - head for Wales. Car does 3 miles to the gallon (of water). Camp in Nant Peris.
1 day later - up at 6.30am. Plan to do Parsley Fern Gully & Trinity Gullies as a consolation prize. Carry ice screws, dead men, hammers, axes, rock pegs (all Scotish winter gear for the Ben). Arrived at gully 1 hr later against force 10 wind. What do we find...
NO BLOODY ICE AND CERTAINLY NO SNOW!
(What does the guide book mean "from the first to the last snows Parsley Fern is in condition")
12.15PM - back at tent. Totally fed up. Picked up tent headed to hut. (only stopped twice to fill up with water! It's getting better!)
John & Steve
P.S. It's all Trevor's fault!
Lazy afternoon. John said "let's go for a drink in Llan". What a great idea! Off we set at 7.30pm. He didn't tell me till later that we were not going to Llanberis but Llandudno. Arrived back at 12.40am - shattered.
Saturday 7th Jan 78
Slept in. Up at 11.00am. Miserable day. Cold, windy and low cloud. In the afternoon against all the elements we did Flying Buttress.
Went for a drink again, you've guessed, Llandudno. Car was doing great only stopping every 10 - 15 miles to fill with water. Crawled into bed at 2.00am - shattered yet again!! So if John asks you to go for a drink SAY NO. You have been warned.
Sunday 8th Jan 1978
Up at 8.30am. Left for the Great Orme or Craig y Forwen.
John & Steve
Saturday 14th
Mark and Hamish arrive in hut after bivvying in Ogwen on the Friday night.
Walked up ridge of Tryfan - Bristly Ridge and the Glyders, then walking down to the Pass and the hut.
We were a bit disappointed at not finding any snow worth climbing on, so we hauled our ice screws and deadmen around with us.
Sunday January 22nd
Due to the miserable weather the hut warden and his minions decided to do a little work on the hut. The new safe is now installed - not a bad job considering there was only :
1 Concrete Technologist
1 Civil Engineer
1 Quantity Surveyor
despite the lack of supervision it's no a bad job! I hereby formally apologise to the ladies for the lack of shower facilities but I'm afraid you'll have to bear with us for a bit longer - sorry.
Simon Lewis, Dave Graham, Martin Lacey, Barb Graham, Bill Sutherland.
Billy Ed & friend (non working members).
29/1/78
Another great dinner! Just been told the Pass is blocked. What's Simon done that he's got to leave the country in such a hurry? Yes, the Pass was blocked and I was unwillingly forced to unblock it. (No crude comments about drains please).
February 1978
Thursday? or Friday34
Despite 'orrible low cloud we set off for an easy stroll up the path (next to the railway) to Snowdon.
The weather got worse as we got higher until as we got to Cloggy station it was downright arctic. I reckon Omar J got his weeks mixed up...should have been out today.
Reluctantly turned back with cold gale force winds and general clag in pursuit.
Dave J & Ann W
Saturday 4-2-78
Weather is foul, low cloud, clag etc. so we're off home.
5-2-78
Bill, Alan & George up to Cwm Lloer in ...ing rain. Snow really wet (just like the above writer!). Soloed Hidden Gully in the dry (just like .....) Blah blah blah etc etc
Gorgeous Georgie
12-2-78
Fantastic condition for snow/ice. Best I have ever seen in Wales. Rock hard snow from Oggy Cottage upwards.
Mark, Dave, Bill & Eric went up the Nameless Cwm - which was followed by an ascent of Clogwyn Du Gully by the latter pair, Bill and Eric, - fantastic front pointing and back & footing on ice!! Finished in dark. A good Gd IV
Mark
17th - 19th 2-78
Eric and Mark came out with Geoff a few "heads" on the track up to the hut - sliding backwards down the road in the car, Geoff still maintaining his cool image. When getting out the car to inspect the damage the road was so icy he went whizzing down hill and only managed to save himself by making a full length dive for the car door handle nearly wrenching his arm off in the process - a really funny sight.
Woke up to see the crack of dawn (a nice lady). Whizzed round to Ogwen and finally made an abortive attempt on the Devil's Kitchen gully and retreated to the base of South Gully which was in fantastic condition. 2 fantastic steep ice pitches the second being about 100ft 80 - 90o. Where it went steep about 10ft of the ice went really shitty couldn't get a good axe placement ended up hand jamming behind the icicle - a few beads were shed on that section. Eric came up in fine style beaming all over his face and then up came Geoff he overcame the crux by putting his hammer behind the icicle and turning it sideways. Geoff arrived at the top with a look of wild elation after climbing the last bulge shouting "ice is nice".
Mark
Sunday
Dave and Alan & Mark & Eric went up to Cwm Glas and had an enjoyable day round Parsley Fern gully. Saw some igloos on the way up. Coming down over the cornice in a tremendous wind made for a bit of a struggle. Eric's nose was bleeding and covered his glasses & Alan's eyes were iced up. The wind was so strong we could run down the gully leaning against it. Met Col, Eric etc on way down.
Dave
24.2.78
Jock & Dave went for a walk, they nearly didn't. With a good book nearly completed and the weather not looking good there was a great temptation to laze the day away, but at 1 o'clock we wandered up Moel Eilio and over Telegraph Col and back.
25.2.78
It was a wet and windy day when seven lonely figures forced their way up the North Ridge of Tryfan which was possible the third completed ascent of that day. The first difficulties were met at the ??? ??? where Billy Ed due to his length was washed off. Again more rock which brought us onto the snow slopes. Oh no not more front pointing. Simon belayed onto a tied off screw and brought up Pam - the rest of the party jumared up the fixed ropes above to the cut platform. This is where Alan's expertise came into play with his experiences on El Cap etc etc he was able to peg up dubious overhanging rock sometimes only suspended RURPs (Ultimate Reality Pitons) . Kim had difficulty in cleaning his pitch and was on a number of occasions left dangling. The rock tower was traversed around to the famous pendulum pitch. On this one had to swing on a rope from a jammed ice axe and at the end of the arc had to jump into an overhanging crack and clip into the wedge, a few aid moves and the difficulties were over (or so we thought) all that was left was the summit icefield. Owing to the extreme temperatures Pete Liptrot was suffering, he pulled the balaclava lower over his forehead. We were getting worried. The final easy rocks although extremely treacherous were easily ascended. Then we saw the last mountaineering difficulties ahead. It was now left to the wives of both Simon and Mark to jump from Adam to Eve. Immediately we were rejoicing. The message was relayed to base camp and Ogwen was "electric" with excitement and jubilation. We well apart from this, sat on the summit and ate Kendal Mint cake.
This is an account of the third ascent of the North Ridge of Tryfan that day. The party included John (Billy Ed) Edwards, Kim Skuse, Alan "Kar" Mullock, Simon Hamish Lewis, Pete Liptrot (who is still under treatment) and Mark Diggins. This is a true account - also starring
*PAM HINDLEY*
March 1978
2.3.78
Having recovered from frostbite, due to the arctic conditions we encountered while "climbing" Tryfan, Pete Liptrot returned to tackle Snowdon, (tomorrow) single handed (Cor! - he's bionic you know) (has only got one hand you know).
3.3.78
Had a great day today. The weather has been excellent all day. A cloudless sky meant I could see for miles & miles. The scenery around here is amazing.
I set off to do Snowdon for the first time at 12.00 and was on the summit by 2.30. I was dead beat. I followed the footpath to the Clogwyn Station and then lost it due to snow and ice. The railway line kept disappearing in snow drifts. But there it was at last, the summit (or so I thought) I wised up only to see to my horror a second ridge with the summit perched on top. Just at that moment a thick cloud engulfed me & the mountain. I shit myself 'cos I couldn't see a thing and wasn't feeling very safe with snow and ice all round. I almost packed in and decided to come down but the cloud disappeared as quickly as it came and so I wasn't about to go down now with the summit staring me in the face. Upon reaching the peak I stood on the stone slab at the top and celebrated my triumph over the mountain by having a wee 3560 feet above sea level.
The view from the top was fantastic.
I'm off to the P.L.H. for a drink.
Pete (lippy)
4.3.78
I'm playing footy tomorrow so I'm going home this afternoon. Spent this morning & early afternoon doing a little walk to the village & back (up Snowdon tourist route down Crib Goch & P y G track then home) and messing around the hut.
Weather fine again.
See you on Friday for Mike's meet.
Pete (Lippy)
P.S. If anyone comes up before next Friday the reason for the shortage of towels is that I have taken them home to wash. There is a not so dirty one in the drying room.
Tara
11.3.78
Mike's Meet
Stop press - on the night of the 11.3.78 Pete did the move from the toilet seat in the men's loo to the table in the dining room.
11.3.78
Phil & Sheila Scratton and John Stacey (guest) managed to get away for just after 10... Well the clag was down - I'll tell you that for nothin'. Went up to Cwm Glas; weather still rough.... and went up Parson's Nose and then on to Crib y Ddysgl and, finally, Yr Wyddfa then down down the last pitch of a gully at the head of Cwm Glas - Bach - the snow was old and manky - down the screes to the road and into the Vaynol for a well-won pint - Don't you worry about that, pal! So - despite the bad weather, the wind, mist and occasional rain we had a really good day - we didn't go down to the pub - just climbed around the hut, drank tea and rested - I'll tell you that for nothin'...
Phil
Fri & Sat
Easter Weekend
We don't appear to be having much luck with the weather chaps!
Simon, Pam, Dave, Barb, Fred, John & Ian (briefly) - various low-level walks - Moel Eilio, Llyn Crafnant etc
Stop press Geoff and Fred free climbed a difficult grass ramp/gully (previously A2) onto Tryfan, all in situ pegs were chopped!
Sun
Dave was first up - but decided to return to bed and await the dawn. Dave, Barb, Pam & Simon off to the Nantle Ridge - Simon via Outside Edge route. Pam and Marg managed to talk solidly for the whole walk. Found - one cool hat!.
31.3.78
Me, me Dad and our kid arrived to find a spotless hut. Thanks to the people who were here last.
April 1978
1.4.78
After a freezing night due to the fact that I only had one sleeping bag and I forgot my wooly night garments (sorry about the garments bit, but I cannot spell the word begining with pyj or pjy - armars). Anyway we woke to find a beautiful morning. I wanted to take advantage of the weather and do Crib Goch but, due to the old man not being as fit as he used to be, we did the P y G track up to the foot of Snowdon and returned down the miner's track. There were that many people up there it was like going to the match.
Joke time... What's the difference between a goldfish and a mountain goat?
One mucks round in fountains and the other...
Everton are having a training session, Gordon Lee is showing them how to receive the F.A. cup after the final.
"Just say "Thank you your Majesty" and take the medal", he says. "Then shake hands with the King".
"But there isn't a King on the throne" says Mike Lyons.
"Ah, no" says Mr Lee, "But there will be by the time you win the cup".
Pete
7.4.78
"Traitor's Meet"
Pete Liptrot's opposition to the R.L.H. Meet.
Including:- Himself, King Lippy; Billy Ed; Hazel; & Mike (Ed).
Pete and Hazel set off with 4 days to reach the hut, yes they finally made it! Meanwhile Billy Ed had a few beads climbing on the back of Mike's bike - I've never seen so many ropes holding a person on to anything. "I'll tell you that for nothin'... Pete
8.4.78
Thinking about "the boys" on the alternative meet, Pete Rose muttering Billy Ed's quote of last night "It won't fit in Mike, I've already tried it with my moped, it's just not big enough!"
We set off just afore noon to climb. The four of us managed to haul ourselves up Flying Buttress and Spiral Stairs, and while Hazel remarked about Billy Ed's bulge, the latter mentioned took "Pete the innocent" away from the courting couple's antics to do Dives. "Don't you worry about that pal"...Pete.
Back to the Vaynol for drinks - ¾ pint of bitter shandy sees our intrepid King Lippy weaving up the road like a slalom skier. Ah well, back to the hut & even more fun and games...
"I'll tell you that for nothin'"...Pete
Note to Hut Warden: please supply gas masks when Pete Liptrot occupies Caer Fran - the noises and particularly the smells coming out of his rear (in mixed company too!) are quite revolting Ed.
"Don't you worry about that pal"...Pete
Due to vampires in Hazel's room last night, Hazel woke to find she had burst capillaries all round her neck. (Mike (Ed) was hungry).
9.4.78
I don't seem to get much say in all of this, so while the boys are playing out I have decided to let the innocent members of this club know what they are letting themselves in for when they come to Caer Fran with Billy Ed, Pete & Mike. This morning I told "the boys" that I would go for a walk on my own, I knew that this would disappoint them knowing how much they value my company. Anyway I ran all the way back to the hut just in time to fumigate (is that the way you spell it?) the men's loos and bedroom. I cleared away all the dead mice, lambs etc killed in the night by explosions from regions that I will not name. And I have just eaten my first meal without feeling sick, due to fumes etc, etc. On the whole I have had a thoroughly disgusting weekend. I woke this morning to find Mike walking around on all fours shouting after the rams, he then rolled around a bit in the sheep muck and came in for breakfast.
I would just like to end with this, Caer Fran hasn't got ghosts it has vampires. As I lay innocently asleep on Friday night I had blood drawn from my neck. In future I think I will stick to camping. At least the toilets are usually in another field.
Hazel
9.4.78
Due to popular request, the intrepid three were forced by King Lippy to do Crib Goch. Billy Ed chose the way up - roughly in the region of Parson's Nose. We eventually found it, sticking out like a sore thumb. A good ascent followed by different, if exciting, route finding by our King. Such was the great occasion of Pete doing his ambition, a friendly passing helicopter decided to pay him a visit on Crib Goch (or was he in search of Billy Ed's apple?).
A good scree run put Pete's nursing into practice, Billy Ed the patient. On the whole a great day.
Mike
poo poo
The King smelly of the weekend was Billy Ed's. He went for a XXXX* and the smell reached as far back as the kitchen. And he had a window open too.
Pete.
*Naughty, naughty boy! Surley you mean 'excreta' or 'faeces' - our elder statesmen will be disappointed!!
THIS IS A RECORD OF CLIMBS NOT BOWEL MOVEMENTS.
Mark Diggins.
9 - 16 April
Widnes Sixth Form College: Outdoor Activities Course
Sunday
Arrived out at 7.30pm after a "quiet" journey from Widnes. Passed Mike and John on the motor bike at Betws - obviously "wind" assisted - then stopped in the Pass for a chat with Lippy and Hazel. They had all returned from Parson's Nose and Crib Goch. The hut is spotless - cleaned throughout, everything organised, etc - thanks to Hazel in particular.
Monday
Tea in bed at 7.15; snow on the ground! A fair fall last night, did some map and compass work AM. Then went up to Cnicht via the Dog lakes ??? and down by the waterfall - perfect navigation weather with occasional heavy blizzards clearing to blue skies and sunshine - a superb day of contrasts.
However there seems to be some flu in the party - in addition to the usual intermittent bouts of lunacy. This year's game seems to be "Donkey" - hee haw hee haw - nudge, nudge, wink, wink, and "Don't you worry about that pal"!! Bed at 9.30pm (I don't believe it!!).
Tuesday
...and I'll tell you that for nothin'...Up at 7am after tea in bed and out for 9. Much snow has fallen so the rearranged navigation day started for Capel Curig went up to Cowlyd and over Creigiau Gleison and down to Crafnant - back to Capel. A great day of changes with sunny periods and occasional snowfalls. All of the inmates performed well, with exemplary performances from some. We got back to the hut at 7pm and drank our carry out wine unperturbed and turned in at 10. Is this a record? 2 in one day perhaps! (Toni Travis wants me to tell the world that yesterday she led the "cream team" to the top of Cnicht)
Wednesday
Up at 8am (thank god for small mercies!) with even more tea in bed... AM the group went down to the quarry museum and brought home the goodies... PM orienteering course - a 24 checkpoint course starting from the hut, over the back of Eilio, and back round the approach to Telegraph Col. Toni (there she goes again) Dinah and Rosie cracked it in 2hrs 40mins with the others following on. We actually went for a bevvie tonight with some trying out the local disco at the Dolbadarn whilst the rest "rested" in the P.L.H.
Thursday
Not nice weather at all!! The flu now seems to have taken hold on the group so tonight's camp is postponed until Saturday. The morning was spent doing navigation exercises and route cards in the hut. We went down to Caernarfon in the afternoon for a "blow on the beach", Phil succumbed to the dreaded bug and went to bed at 6!! (Ian ate a tin of hamburgers - a catering tin!!).
Friday
Up at 9am this morning (sense at last!!). Went round to Rhyd Ddu for 11 and started up the Llechog Ridge - turned back just before the summit - excellent snow on a hard base, but would have proved problematic for the whole group!! Almost there - never mind it was a great day with occasional sunny spells... despite varying degrees of influenza the 7 who came out did really well.
Tonight we move on to the Nelson Centre on Anglesey for the final two days - some climbing and a camp to look forward to!!. Thanks to the "Committee" for letting us have the hut and to those here last weekend for leaving it so clean. Here's looking at you Blue Eyes... Happy Days.
Sheila & Phil xx
Mon 17th
Colin Hardy, Tina, Sue, Dave, Mathew, Blanche. (West Bromwich students & staff)
Tues - Wed - Thurs. Y Garn, climbing on Pinnacles & Tryfan; Tryfan again & horse riding at Rhos; everyone extremely grateful for use of hut.
Boys, ie Bill, Simon, Phil, Dave, Alan, Mark etc oh... and Mc Bean... Hope to see you soon, got lots of stories... some involving beads!!!
Col
21.4.78
The loss of our beloved Hut Warden (to Holland) is sadly evident this weekend. There is no bog paper or bin bags. (Look in stores)
Billy Ed had to catch faeces* in a piece of paper (ex Crags mag) and dispose of it outside for risk of blocking the drains.
*Specially for our older statesmen.
22.4.78
Up at the crack of dawn today so that I could catch Sheila (so I could borrow a hat). Perfect weather. Started up Hope but got crowded out half way up so we finished via Faith. We decided to leave the crags to the hoards of climbers following up. Finished the day on the Bochlwyd slabs.
Returned during the evening to The Padarn in the hope of finding Billy Ed's lost scarf.
Sat 22
Arrived out with 100 bin bags - sorry no bog paper* - via Tremadoc.
*Look in stores.
Andy Stewart had done Pincushion and Grim Wall
off today to the Wastad - Sheila & Phil: Wrinkle
Skylon
Andy Stewart: Ribstone Crack
*Obviously Phil is the Father Figure and Sheila the Hard Woman type. For further info see Crags No 11.
Off home today no more holidays 'til October. Us nurses are overworked and underpaid.
Pete & Billy Ed.
28th April - 1st May
Helen Sankey's and Helen Smith's Meet.
Eric, Bill Suth, Mark Diggins, Martin Lacey, Allan & Margaret Mullock, Martin, Simon & Pam, Dave Rawlinson, Ian & John.
Sat.
Mark & Eric: Ramesese Wall - Dinas Cromlech (after a failure on Thing and Epitaph).
Bill & Dave R Skylon, Wrinkle, Crackstone Rib, Rib and Slab, Petite Fleur
Martin & Bill Leece were on and off Striptease & Grim Wall, Tremadoc.
Dave & Barb North Ridge Tryfan - Bristly Ridge & Allan M Glyders, Devil's Kitchen
Helen, Bev, Santa Clause Land & Telegraph Col
Rosamond & Martin
Sunday
Rain mostly.
Martin & Simon - Tantalus, Tremadoc.
Mark, Eric, Bill, Dave R - Anglesey - rain - no good. Billy Ed - Home via Joe Brown's
Dave, Barb, Alan - Went underground in the Moelwyns. Bill, Ian & Frank - Cloggy
& all the girls went for a drive in a little red car. Gasp!
May 1978
1st May 78
Wen, Gogarth. Eric & Geoff. Like sex it saved the best bits until the last moments.*
Concrete Chimney - Gogarth - Mark & Martin - a very good enjoyable route.
Simon & Pam - Cracks - Dinas Mot.
Simon & Bill - Western Slabs
Rosamond & Bev - Crib Goch.
Dave R, Bill, Ian, Frank Slow Ledge Climb
Good food - good climbing.
* In your terms Mark, this is also is drivel.
6/5/78
The boys are back in the Pass.
Eric R, Mark, Eric M, Bill L, Bill S, Dave R, Billy Ed, John M.
Tremadoc was the order of the day where the following were completed:-
First Slip - Mark & Eric
Burlesque - Well, nearly, by Mark & "Evil Knevil" Eric.
The Princess Route Craig y Gesail Bill S, Dave, Eric M
Foul Touch Billy Ed, John
Touch & Go Eric M, Bill S
Clutch Eric M, Bill S, Dave R
Acropolis Dave R, Billy Ed, John M
Avalon Billy Ed, John M
A good day, a small bead or two and a late finish. We only just made the Pad after a good meal.
20.5.78
In good weather
Jane & John - Snowdon Horseshoe
Pam, Rosamond, John Ed, Pete Liptrot & Pete Ford - Horned Crag (Lliwedd) - Horseshoe.
Bill & Eric did Plexus & Black Shadow.
21.5.78
John & Pete - Nea & Hazel Groove
27/5/78
Superb weather, and two very nice climbs.
26/28 May 1978
Pam, Hazel & 2 guests (Karen & Jan) Eric & Pete had excellent weather this weekend.
Sat. Pam, Hazel, Karen & Jan & Pete went up Tryfan. Pam & Pete carried on up Bristly Ridge.
Sun. Pam, Pete & Billy Ed did Direct Route on the Mot, Dives and Better Things & Flying Buttress & Bronzy Bronzy.
Eric sunbathed. Hazel, Karen & Jan also sunbathed.
June 1978
2nd June 1978
Brant Direct Mark & Hamish
Spectre Hamish & Mark
Slape Hamish & Mark
Phantom Rib Hamish & Dave
Hazel Groove Dave & Pete
Nea Mark & Pete
Babel Dave & Pete
3rd June
Beorn XS Bill & Eric
Black Spring HVS Bill & Eric
Nexus XS Mark & John P
Plexus HVS Mark & John P & Dave & Hamish
West Rib HVS Dave & Hamish
Cracks - Solo Mark - Hamish
White Slab (Cloggy XS) - Martin Lacey - Garner
Spectre HVS .. ..
10th & 11th June
Eric R & Eric H went to Tremadoc and Eric redeemed himself by leading Burlesque XS which he had earlier fallen off. Also Fang - HVS; Clapton's Crack - VS.
11th June
Eric - Mark and Eric R
Ten Degrees North XS on Dinas Mot
11 June
John Edwards, John Peake
17/6/78
Craig Gogarth
Gogarth HVS - ER/EH/WS. Varied leads
18/6/78
Craig Gogarth
13 June
Phil, Sue Duxbury, Jaquie, Rosey Acott and Pauline Davenport (all Edge Hill) did Tryfan N. Ridge, Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach and down the Gribbin in fine conditions. (N.H.E.T.C.)**
17th June
Sheila, Phil, Sue Duxbury and Rosey Acott arrived out PM. (I'm not sure I'm supposed to write that) and we walked in good weather up to the lake at Eilio before tea. (Perhaps I shouldn't record that as it's not considered a climb). And we went down to the pub after dinner.
18th June
Enough of this drivel... Sheila, Phil, Sue and Rosey climbed (it's in the guide so I can write about it here) the Parson's Nose (N.H.E.T.C.)** and then completed the Horseshoe. The weather today has been brilliant - not a cloud in the sky and very hot with a cool breeze (sorry about the BBC style of reporting but it appears we have to watch what we say these days). Sue went back to Liverpool and yet another Viva tomorrow and the three of us came back to a welcome dinner, via the Bryn Tyrch and a pint. The first people to be seen were on Crib Goch and as we arrived at Snowdon summit between trains there weren't too many there either... a few more on Lliwedd - sunbathed, ate and drank (and thought of the hard men thrutching their hours away).
**(N.H.E.T.C. is a new grade instituted for the purpose of writing in the "Record of Climbs"; it should help as a directive for new members. It means Not Hard Enough To Count...)
10 - 11 June
Lake District
Phil & Sheila alt leads:
White Ghyll: Slip Not MVS
White Ghyll Wall MVS
Moss Wall VS
Ravens: Centipede S
Revelation S
Sevenakes S
19 June
Phil, Sheila & Rosey - mediocre day: Pen yr Ole Wen, Dafydd, Llewelyn, Pen Yr Helgi Du and down. Back to Liverpool...
30th June - 7th July
The only mountains climbed this week were "Mountains of Knowledge" (tongue in cheek) as C.F. has been used as a base for a IV form fieldwork course. Rained continuously from Friday 'til Wednesday but a lot of good work ensued. Now that we are experts on the economy and physical geography of Snowdonia we are scampering back to the smoke. Thanks from the IV form of Eaglesfield for the use of Caer Fran - a very pleasant if hard working week.
J Mc Bean
July 1978
13.7.78
We (my father and I) ascended Tryfan via the back way and descended via the North Ridge. The old man jumped from Eve to Adam at a ripe old age of 51. We also cleaned the table, painted the stairs & wall next to the stairs.
Pete
78/7/15
A doog yad
Cire, Llib dna Evad R - Erbas Tuc
Egroeg Evad R - Sevid
Cire dna Llib - Yvi Pes
23/7/78
Rib and Slab John Peake and Rosey Acott.
24/7/78
25/7/78
Several routes at Holyhead Phil Scratton, Rosey Acott Pete Liptrot & Gill
"We went in search of the sun and got wet!!"
23/7/78
Teaser VS } Holyhead, Sheila Scratton & various partners
Plimsol D+ }
Sump Direct S }
24/7/78
26/7/78
Climbing wall (Llangefni) and then:
Sump V Diff } Holyhead, Sheila Scratton
Yellow Crack ? }
27/7/78
Oberon, Tremadoc Sheila Scratton "a torrential waterfall"
then: climbing wall at Nelson
This week has probably been the worst July for many a year!!
August 1978
Aug 7th 78
Returned to the mountains after what seems a life time; acquired a new female partner to share the horrors of the Pass in the tourist season. It's taken me six years to find someone mad enough to climb with me it now only remains to be seen if I can still climb. Tomorrow will tell!! The rat disturbed us continually and we were quite lonely until the hoards descended on us, the silence of the mountains was ruined but we had a lovely time, chasing rats and stuffing people up chimneys. Beryl has decided she likes climbing and so she will return to do Flying Buttress and not get scared!! (I hope that's Beryl!)
Lin & Beryl
The Golden Welly Wonder Girls!!
12th Aug 78
Dave & I got engaged (5/7/78 - wedding 23/6/79)
Myself (Dave J) Ann, Sue and Derek woke late and peered out at a typical Llanberis scene; low cloud, clag etc but the MET OFFICE forecast an improvement later on so off we went to Snowdon.
Up the P y G track and down the Miner's trail. As we reached the causeway we saw the summit bathed in sunshine but when we were there it was cold and cloudy. A really great day out enjoyed by all.
It was noticed that a large party (20+) of young boys was not equipped for mountain walking as they struggled to the top. Even the leaders (?) only had shoes on.
11/13 Aug
Pete, Pam and Ann arrived at the hut expecting to be on our tod, but the place was full.
Sat. John Peake made up a four.
Pete & John The Crevice VS
Ribstone Crack VS - Pete had been leading.
Pam & Ann Crackstone Rib S
Wrinkle V Diff
All in all a really good day.
Sun. It was dull round the hut so off we went to Holyhead Mt following the sun. Did the first pitch of Pigeon's Crack and then the heavens opened. Ann was on the crux battering her knees on the rock just as it began to get a bit wet so she had to reverse on wet rock with her new EB's. Good practice. Who's idea was it to go to Holyhead anyway Lar?
Pete, Pam & Ann
14th Monday
Disaster day - shouldn't have got up today.
For a start we overslept - had breakfast at 12.00. It wasn't only raining it was lashing down. Ann couldn't find her polar jacket so we spent a while searching in the rain etc and got drowned.
Went to Bangor but couldn't even park. Got caught by a traffic warden for speeding - let off with a warning. So after doing some shopping went to Brown's and spent a fortune.
Let's hope tomorrow brings better luck.
14/8
Arrived from Liverpool (Graham, Helen, Glynn, Steven, Percy)
Played on the "rollerboard" thing, don't know if it's been done before but Graham lifted Steven (11) onto his back while balancing - what was he balancing?!!
15/8
Pouring down in the morning, but as we're in on hurry we took a leisurely start to the day and eventually at 12 noon we started up the f.p. to Moel Siabod. Up by quarries & NE Ridge? and down by path following top edge of hill. Ann & Dave did Y Garn.
16/8
Weather much improved. Blisters and tiredness also much in abundance. Went shopping in morning. After lunch my dad & I went for a short walk up Moel Eilio - Telegraph Col & back. Don't know if gambling is allowed in the hut but my brother won 30p (and we never heard the last of it!).
Lyn & Beryl finally arrived back to the hut after a mysterious couple of days absence - they said it was a long queue in the launderette! (complete with gold wellies!).
Can I just say this is the first time my name has appeared in this log - and the last! Anon.
17/8
Lyn had told us of Lockwood's Chimney on Craig y Wenallt the night before in the pub then had suggested that all nine of us go up it together - so we did - it was a good laugh as well as quite interesting - we were wondering whether nine in a chimney was a record - if anyone knows of a better feat please contest this. (Yes: 25 Annual Dinner '74)
After faffing around in Llanberis village a bit more we had tea and Dave went down to get the orders in for the evening & we opened a "bar" in Caer Fran - Dave even took pickies to prove it!!
We think this is a record for M.M.C. roped climbs.
.. unless of course, you know better...
I did it as well. Anon
September 1978
3/9/78
A Tryfan day: dry rock (mostly) on Grooved Arete. No other climbers after the leader of a following duo "peeled" on the polished groove - slowed him down somewhat.
4/9/78
An early start. John & Fred out at 8.15 to do Wrinkle - back at 11.00 to take Liz and Heather to Gogarth. Dry weather - "is this a record"?
8/9/78
Hi. Trevor's returned (Lundy Gannet) sporting a new wife (no comments).
Those present on the meet: Bill, Big Eric, Little Eric - who didn't book on the meet again! - Billy Ed, Pete, Helen, Roz, Kate.
Phil & Sheila brought out a party who self-catered.
Saturday morning arrived bringing mist at low altitude & gale force winds.
Trevor, Wife, Helen & Roz attempted Carneddau ridge but had to retire because of bad weather (ate windberries instead) and came from Llewelyn down Craig yr Ysfa. Bill Ed & Pete went to Tremadoc. Eric S and Bill to Gogarth.
After tea Billy Ed and I had to tell John to remove his posh new boots when in the hut, silly boy wouldn't listen so we took him outside and removed them for him & his socks & trousers. Poor fella. Then went to Pad. Hole of a place.
Sunday
Bill, Eric S and Billy Ed to Anglesey. Kate, Roz, Helen & Pete walking to Cwm Glas & me & wife (Alison) to find slates for my back garden.
Trevor & Alison.
20th Sept 78
A superb day - unusual in such a poor summer - Jaquie Acott, Pete Liptrot and Phil Scratton - Cwm Glas, Parson's Nose, and the Horseshoe - some cloud on the summits but it cleared by Lliwedd producing beautiful views. Stopped off at the Vaynol for a pint of Robinson's where Jaquie, in a desperate rush for relief, dropped her purse down the loo! Dinner and Padarn - a really superb day. The climbing and walking great.
21 Sept 78
Pete, Jaquie and Phil off to walk in the Carnedds - weather somewhat overcast but promises to be good!
What a day! It was low mist up to 500' below Pen yr Ole Wen and then it happened - ORGASMIC - on the summits up above the cloud level in blazing sun. Afternoon frolics (head stands, human pyramids, etc) on a beautiful day. Walked the Carnedds and then down for skinny dips in the river and home to see "Love and Kisses from Kirkby" at the Everyman.
Phil
October 1978
Sat 28th October
Sheila's Meet
People went off in various directions - Gogarth, Snowdon, Glyders, Moel Eilio. Sheila, after her fine day on the Glyders yesterday, now rather tired (she has to walk for two these days!)and went for a walk round Rhyd Ddu before picking up the others. Phil worked in the hut and than went for a run (Moel Eilio - Foel Goch - Telegraph Col 1hr 6min) and then enjoyed the heat of the showers. Billy Ed had walked over the Glyders & Y Garn and Kate spent the day hiding from Phil on the Moel Eilio route!
Dave, Barbara, Rosie & Pauline followed by Pam, Ann, Rosamond and Paul conquered Yr Wyddfa via the south ridge. The first party then ran up Lliwedd & descended by the miner's track. The follow up team zigged and zagged their way to giant beakers of ice cold milk!!
Bill, Mark, John and Pete didn't run anywhere - or even record the time it took them to get to Gogarth!! Bill & Mark did the Big Groove - Bill has now got deformed ankles (feet are not at 90o to legs anymore) he insists that it was through strenuous bridging for 130ft. John & Pete Dirtigo? not being prepared to queue for D of W H (another day?).
November 1978
5/11/78
Bill, Billy Ed and Steve
The Cromlech - Spiral Stairs
Parchment Passage
and, wait for it, Flying Buttress
A good day. This place is better than Gogarth (only kidding).
December 1978
16th & 17th Dec 1978
Kim's comming of age/ Christmas/ Bill getting smashed again, Meet.
Poor old Pam having prepared the turkey, gotten the decorations together, bought the whizzers couldn't make the meet. She fell foul of the demon flu.
Lucky people who made the meet, Bill Sutherland (inevitably) John Peake (graciously) Nick Jones (lately) Mark Diggins (as usually) Barb & Dave Graham (unbelievably) Jan (after workedly) and Kim (on the downward slide to gravedly).
A party of six ie everybody above less Jan & Nick who hadn't arrived then made for the Nameless in clear bright and cold weather and made a massed ascent of Cneifion Arete which proved very worthwhile expedition on a cold day. Amid snow showers the Gribbin Ridge was eventually reached and subsequently the summit of Glyder Fawr down into the pass above the Devil's Kitchen and back to the Ogwen Cottage only just before total darkness.
Aperitifs (several aperitifs by each person) where down at the Pad and copious quantities of wine and ale were bought for consumption at the latter. I don't know what happened next until next morning when we all woke with fat heads although I do have a faint recollection of a siege of Caer Fran about 10.00 when the boys won and enjoyed the spoils of war by raping an pillaging (much to the delight of the raped and pillaged women).
Happy birthday Kim (it's a good job you're only 21 once. And Merry Christmas one and all, see you in the Cairngorms.
Sun. Beautiful sunny day and a rather ragged party set off for a jaunt up Elidir Fawr.
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