1.1.77

Mark, Alan & Marg disappeared in the direction of Liverpool, pushing the car, which has gone wrong AGAIN. It's a long way to Liverpool.

Dave & Helen walked up Moel Eilio in the afternoon next day with P.Smith and did the ridge from Bethesda to Y Garn.

8.1.77

Tonto's Meet!! or The good food extravaganza.

People present included Bill, George, Leslie, Simon, Dave, Geoff, Nick, John B & Egon Ronay.

Sat. Simon, John, Geoff & Dave went round to Ogwen intending to do the North Ridge of Tryfan - Bristly Ridge - Glyders and down Devil's Kitchen. After a small detour (just to keep the boys awake) we eventually found Bristly Ridge and made our way across the Glyders. The next leader had a perfect bearing down from Glyder Fawr, but the doubters and disbelievers insisted that I went 50ft ahead down this steep snow field in white-out conditions - all expecting me to disappear at any moment - but my skill won through yet again and a perfect landing was executed. So we slogged down the Devil's kitchen in the dark (P.S. this is the pure and unbiased account of the day's activities!!!)

Meanwhile back at the ranch Bill and Mexican George (see Bill for explanation) set off up the Glyders from P y G and after some argument about Bill's skill with a compass found their way down to Nant Peris.

14.1.77

Arrived in various states of condition after hitching from Liverpool. After being dropped off at the Pen y Pass in a snow blizzard because the driver feared for his life we proceeded to walk to Llanberis. Some got a lift in a Jag XJ6 and one who could not fit in got a lift on a snow plough. Drowned our sorrows in beer at the Pad, and our appetites in the chippy.

Sat - Set off for Snowdon intending to do Western Terrace on Cloggy, eventually found Cloggy after much sinking up to our waists in snow. Retreated from Western Terrace 'cos of ice pitch and Spindrift Avalanche. Decided to go for the summit of Snowdon the area has been completely transformed by the snow, to find the ridge proper was difficult because of the almost white-out conditions and the number of cornices we came across. Retreated when we found ourselves on hard neve and the prospect of cutting steps plus the fact that we had half an hour's daylight. Arrived back at hut at 7.15 a very long day.

March 24

Sheila, Phil & Bob started up Grooved Arete -icy wind and hail - came down after 1st pitch - Bristly Ridge, Glyders & down.

8th April

(What happened to Feb and March)

(Good Friday)

Parsley Fern, Central Trinity Gully. J Peake

Not much ice left but what there is is good.

9th April

Not so good Sat

Got up, got out of bed, dragged a comb across my head and fucked off home.

& #45 WE DONT LIKE THAT KIND OF WORD.

Sunday Mon Tue

Walked over Telegraph Col to Rhyd Ddu and along Nantle Ridge to Cwm Pennant & then over Moel Hebog to Beddgelert. Camping 2 nights (one on top of Y Garn!!)

Wed

Nothing

Thur

Nothing much

Fri

Crib Goch - Snowdon - Moel Cynghorion - Foel Goch & Gron - Moel Eilio & back to the hut. Then some night navigation around midnight.

Dave & Helen

9 Sat

After 9pm. Came out expecting there would be someone to climb with, then WENT off home.

10 Sun

Those who read the following will be disgusted and amazed at the weak willed nature of some of our members. Perhaps it is due to their lack of physique, or stamina, or there again their young ages? The culprits are M Rees, B Ed who couldn't summon the enthusiasm to climb in the wet at Tremadoc on Sun 10th April 77.

Appendix to above:-

Those who read the following will be disgusted and amazed at the weak willed nature of ONE of our members. Perhaps it is due to his lack of physique, or stamina, or there again his elderly age? The culprit is - J Peake (No Honours) who is unable to show himself climbing in normal weather or show himself swimming in public places. Instead he likes climbing and swimming in one place at the same time - Tremadoc cliffs. It's no wonder some of us have letters after our names - the youth of today have just saved the sultry life of an old man on Sun 10th April 77

M Rees B.Ed.

Appendix to above appendix to above. This appendix to (above) is to be considered null and void.

10 April

Sheila & Phil arrived in the hut after 4 days camping high in the Carneddau - had great weather, snow at night and clear days but had a bad storm at Cwm Bychan this morning so we came down - previously we had walked over the back of the Carneddau from Ogwen - eventually down to Gerlan & a hitch back to the car. Managed to get some good photos on the ridge - Dyfedd, Llywelyn, Yr Elen, etc and a fine set of rubbed feet bruised shoulders etc! Arrived here to find Geoff and his mate swilling numerous cups of tea in a bid to store warmth and energy for the motor bike ride back - Dave, Barbara, John Craig, Colin (youth I) and Graham (youth II) had been on the ale at Betws at lunch time and then had walked over Y Garn. Meanwhile Mike Rees and Billy Ed had looked at Tremadoc with J.P. and , having despached the latter to Bangor, had climbed Flying Buttress. We had some grub and then went to the ale house in Betws. Billy Ed and Mike went home and we all came back. Happy Easter, wish you were here.

11 April

All up and out of bed by 9-30!

P.P.S. Welcome back to the Poet Laureate (excuse for any spelling mistakes) And if you don't know who the Poet Laureate is, he smokes like a trooper, sometimes lives in Wrexham!! climbs like a machine (except on the "Corner") and wipes his nose everytime he has three points of contact with the rock (once known as the classic style till he took over).

All answers on a postcard to the world's greatest heating authority (no guesses please who that is).

Lots of love and warm wishes The Spartans

And it came to pass that, thusly, after consuming many pints of orange juice in the local hostelry (back in the "Pool"), I had this strange urge, I also had an odd compulsion, to go the "utt". I have arrived (1.00am) and there's nobody here. So I think I'll go home...

What happened to the "It'll-warm-the-next-valley" heater (?) by the way (_____________) (J Sharkey comment here).

13th April

Very windy and wet (hailstorms) day.

J.Peake } Direct Route, Milestone Buttress.

S.Milnes}

P.S. 1st pitch is regraded 4b. (down from 4c)

Dave (Jenkins) ascended Tryfan (got wet)(very wet) thence to col between Glyders (through "half b--- bogs in N Wales") and back to car.

14th

Off to attempt Pedestal Route, Craig Ddu J.Peake S.Milne.

17th Sunday

Widnes Junior College Outdoor Activities Course.

Arrived out with a party of 8 for a week of activity(!!) to find a very clean hut thanks to the efforts of our Hut Warden - thanks Fred.

18th Monday

Introductory Navigation. Spent a short morning session on theory and then went out on navigation exercise: Foel Gron; Foel Goch; Eilio and down via plantation and quarries. Snowing on top, certainly needed compasses!! Late dinner; route cards session in the evening.

19th Tuesday

Navigation Course. Between the Capel P.O. and Ogwen via Little Tryfan, Milestone, Bochlwyed, Idwal, Kitchen and down. Students did the course in twos and all did well. Weather not too good; slides in the evening.

20th Wednesday

Awful weather: Jo had to go back to Polytech. so we eventually went to Caernarfon. It poured all day so we had a day "off" although everyone went around the museum in the morning. It's fantastic for 5p!! (But 20p for Sheila).

21st Thursday

The weather is even worse! Not possible? Oh yes it is... Can't wait for good weather so off we went in the gear ('bout time I used my overkecks). Started at Capel - along Llyn Cowlyd up onto Craigau Gleison and over Cefn Cyforwydd and down to Crafnant over Crimpiau and back to Capel. Certainly good weather for navigation - particularly good on Cyforwydd - all we saw for most of the day was rain, maps and compasses. The crags at Crafnant are quite impressive - worth a visit on a nicer day! More slides in evening.

22-23 April

Mike Rees' Meet

Headline : Meet Leader Hogs Limelight!

Arrived on Friday night for Mike's first meet. Bad weather on Saturday resulted in the characteristic journey to South Stack Cafe. Conditions were not too bad, only gale force 9, so climbing was possible(?). Mike & John were talked into Lighthouse Arete, despite an urge to go to Holyhead Mountain, Simon , Bill, and Eric intending to do Blanco.

At the top of the abseil apprehension set in, and Bill gallantly gave up the chance of Blanco to aid the novices, despite criticisms from one member of the group.

Middle ledge - apprehension now paramount. Simon abseiled down to the bottom but reappeared soon after the wave had passed. Eric joined him and Simon left immediately on the first pitch of Pel.

Bill then sent down Mike, the first of the "A" party, and felt guilty for the rest of the day. (He is at the moment confessing his sins at Mass). Lighthouse Arete was out so John and Bill, displaying all their mountain experience, stayed where they where, on the middle ledge.

J.Peake and Trevor joined the middle ledge, then began the second pitch of Rap. Some time later one wet S.Lewis dragged himself from the waves and so regained the position he had left earlier. Some people will go to any lengths for a wash.

Bill and John waited for the rain to begin before they began the second pitch of Pel (too easy in the dry). Not to be outdone, Simon decided to do the harder finish - Rap. (Although a possible loop was discovered on hauling in the abseil rope).

Still all's well that ends well, and the cafe owner had soon mopped up the floor and cooked the fish.

--------------

After eating our lunch in the glorious sunshine on Holyhead Mountain the girls descended to watch the boys paddling in the sea. After Hazel had recovered from her bout of diarrohea we, not wanting to outshine the boys, performed a mammoth 300 ft climb up the notorious South Stack Lighthouse. By that time it had started to rain but this did not deter us, soaking wet and fighting against the torrential hailstones we fought on and returned to the cafe only to find the boys still playing games in the sea. Exhausted from their games they emerged over the cliff face and staggered towards the cars and collapsed in heaps on the floor. Later that night all the men were flaked out whilst we girls were still full of life. Which just goes to show that the men can't stick the pace.

29th April

After a week at Glen Dera - great hut, nice OPEN fire and good toasties facilities came over from Ogwen and met Sheila.

Saturday. Sheila & Phil : Parson's Nose - Crib y Ddysgl - Crib Goch and down via North Ridge of Crib Goch went down to the alehouse for a few drinks will Alan, Marg, Eric & Billy Ed.

Sunday. Sheila & Phil and diverse others - round to Idwal to do some climbs on the Slabs.

24/4/77

Eric, Alan, John Ed Cleopatra's Crack

Christmas Curry (Micah)

30/4/77

Alan - Birthday Ridge - Gribbin } Snow, hail, lightning

Eric, John Ed, Geoff - Sabre Cut } rain, thunder, mist, fog, monsoon, sleet, typhoon } etc.

14th May 77

Trevor Alison Simon arrived via Deeside ice rink to find Geoff Billy Ed & Eric in residence. Sat: all off to Dinas Mot, Simon & Trev did Direct Route while Eric Geoff & Billy Ed did Garth, Tonto and the lone ranger then entered into unarmed combat with Hiawatha, at the top of round 3 Tonto was trailing by one fall, but soon overcame this tiny setback and shinned on through! Meanwhile, the threesome were completing Direct Route, Billy Ed decided to slash his hands to bits on the descent! Good day was had by all.

Sunday - I am most disappointed in the young generation of climbers at the hut this weekend. Picture the situation - there's young Mark dying to go to the Corner and no-one will second his rope - I am really taken aback - where has all the keeness gone? (to be continued...)

15/5/77

"THE BOYS" (TONTO BILL MARK ) DID THE GATES (JUST!). YES THOSE GATES.

Billy Ed & Geoff N did Parchment Passage, Spiral Stairs & Flying Buttress. Trev & Alison did Flying Buttress and Bangor Direct, Pete & Eric went to Tremadoc? Alan & Marg went to Moelwyns to find Point "A". Bill Leece & Eric Holligan did Skylon & Bole Way.

21/5/77

After a dithering start the boys - John Mc Bill Suth Bill Leece & Simon eventually arrived at Dinas Mot. Simon & John, Bill & Bill (or Ben) did Western Slabs for starters then "the flower pot men" went off and creamed up Mole. Simon & John did the first 3 pitches of Diagonal - no beads - but the top pitch WOW! John the Fonz fell off the top pitch FOUR TIMES! but the youngster saved the day when the Fonz climbed up a rope ladder to the top and we all lived happily ever after. Simon & Bill finished off with Cracks. Nice day!!

28/5/77

On the hottest day of the year to date Eric (R) decided we were to "warm up" on Spectre. He then decided to do this climb he has been avoiding for years, so we do Slape and find he had good grounds for it. By this time we were definately too big for our own boots (acute case of footarohoea) and hobbled back to C.F.

29/5/77

Another beautiful day. Boiling hot! The teams reinforced by John Ed and Pete Smith visited the Cromlech, where ascents of Pharaoh's Passage and Better Things were recorded.

Day one - Jubilee weekend

Phil, Sheila, Annee, Rachael went up Elidir Fawr and along onto Y Garn then down to Nant Peris. Barbara, Gill and Helen entered the 1000 metre races and won the women's team event Barb & Gill came 3rd & 4th while Julie came in some time later. Lonely Dave went up to Cwm Glas and up Parson's Nose over Snowdon & down to hut. Simon & Pam did Rib and Slab, Petite Fleur & Nea. George & Lesley went to Caernarfon. Bill Leece & Eric H arrived late and ascended Slape.

Day Two

Early start, Phil, Sheila, Annee, Rachael, Phil (the cravat), Mike went up North Ridge of Tryfan via Brigham's sale. Helen, Dave, Kim & Mark did Nea. Mark & Eric did Ochre Groove free - nice one Eric. Simon & Pam spent a while gear-retrieving and finished off with Crackstone Rib & Skylon. Anne Moloney & Anna and Kath W ascended "most" of the Watkin Path.

In the evening Phil, Phil II (the cravat), Mike and Billy Ed went up Snowdon and camped on the summit in preparation for the 14 Peaks.

Day 3

Bad weather meant that the attempt was off and the boys descended at 5-30am - met Sheila at checkpoint(!!!) - Ynys Ettws - and got back to hut for 7.15 and breakfast.

After an even earlier start all off to Tremadoc. Dave, Mark & Kim did Niobe, while Bill, George, Eric R, Bill L and Eric H did Mensor. Simon & Pam did Creagh Dhu Wall. Mark & Dave finished off a good day with Tensor. Bill and Eric finished off with Tarantula.

Phil, Sheila etc made a superb job of cleaning the hut.

Day 4

Cancelled - Dave & Mark got rained off Central Park and Bill Leece and Eric Holligan got rained off Dream Of White Horses. Phil & Sheila's party along with Simon and Pam and Mike Rees did a number of routes on Holyhead Mountain, one of them being aptly named Sump Direct.

Day 5

8th June

This was worth waiting for.

Bill Leece, Simon Lewis, Dave Allcock and M Diggins were left at the hut.

Arose about 11 0'clock not expecting much of a day - we were surprised when suddenly from behind a cloud there appeared the SUN. Dived out of bed and had breakfast. Dave and Mark hitched down the Pass and eventually arrived at about 1.30. Bill & Simon arrived after 2 sometime after having been to Caernarfon on Bill's motorbike.

We all had a really good day doing a number of good routes which made up for the last couple of days.

We left the Pass about 7 o'clock.

Brant Direct } Dave Allcock

Kaisergebirge Wall } & Mark Diggins

Spectre }

Brant Direct } Simon Lewis

Ochre Groove (Free!) } & Bill Leece

Day 6

Up at 7 o'clock!! Sun & blue sky. Mark & Dave left for higher things on Anglesey while Simon, Geoff T & Bill L set off for the Pass.

We had a cracker day. Next day climbed on Slabs in pouring rain. What a let-down.

Unicorn fell to a team attempt from the afore-mentioned - after 2 hours!! Tonto plucked up the courage to heave up on the manky wire nut and the route was beaten. Old Holborn was next to fall, this time to Bill L. The top pitch was ascended shakily by the two remaining boys (Geoff had abbed off to safety by this time) in the pouring rain.

E.H. returned in the afternoon and from Pen y Pass made lonesome ascent of Tryfan via Pinnacle Rib and then Gashed Crack.

Wednesday 15th June

Phil, Billy Ed, Phil the cravat, Sheila and Hazel came out tonight. After calling off the attempt in bad weather last week we decided to do the 14 Peaks regardless of the weather... it goes without saying that the weather was bad again. Up at 5am. Started from Pen y Pass 6.10am in rain and clag and finished on Foel Fras at 9pm. Down to Aber for 10.30. Phil, Phil the cravat, and Billy Ed did the 14 summits with excellent support from Sheila and Hazel. Much jubilation, cramp, chinese meals and ale back at the hut. Left 8am on Thursday. What a day... never again. Weather remained poor - clag - until Carneddau.

Phil

(P.S. We raised £140 for the Pyrenees)

Sat 18th June

Dave and John Ed ascended Yellow Groove, Petite Fleur and Anthropology - John Ed deciding to impress the crowds did it upside down - fuller story on request! Eric soloed Rib and Slab, Pedestal Route and Petite Fleur. Meanwhile Simon, Pete and Martin did Scratch Arete, Holloway and 1-2 pitches of Leg Slip due to a psych out by Martin which resulted in three refusals and a disqualification - so we went 'ome.

Sun

Dave & John did Direct, Cracks and Western Slabs on Mot.

Sun 19 June

Very pleasant day spent on the Cromlech.

Pharaoh's Wall (VS)
Holly Buttress (VS)
Sabre Cut Direct (HVS)

Nice weather, nice climbs E.R. & W.S.

Great Tower Buttress } Glyder Fach -
Direct Route } Pete Smith & Geoff Turner

Sat 25th June 1977

Late start due to weather.

Bill M, Bill L, Billy Ed, Eric, John Peake Simon and Pam went to Tremadoc.

Eric & Bill L did Grasper & Striptease

Billy Ed, Bill M & John did Christmas Curry & Y Broga

Simon & Pam did Oberon, Christmas Curry & Yogi

Dave Jenkins, Helen & Yvonne went up and down Moel Siabod. There seems to be some doubt as to the activities of Dave, Barb, Sheila, Hazel, Sue and Dave W. Needless to say a great deal of ale was consumed!

Sunday 26th June

Phil and Edge Hill brigade arrived out on Sociology field trip - met Sheila (occasionally we do meet!!!) Hazel, Dave, Barb, all of whom had spent a glorious day doing horseshoe - Simon informed us that the water supply has packed up - s... - we've got a week of early morning dips.

Dave Helen and Yvonne did Snowdon H.S. (Crib Goch)

Wednesday 29th June

Anne Hardman came down last night so we set off to see just how good her navigation & compass work is. Over the Glyders & down to Pen y Pass, then back up Pass - a quick pint in the Vaynol and a climb - dinner at 9.30 and last orders in the Padarn. Her navigation was excellent (needed to be!!!), the day was superb - ale not bad either.

Thursday June 30th

Early start...

Anne and I set off in poorish weather - Cwm Glas, Parson's Nose, Crib Goch and the North Ridge. Weather broke so we came down rather quickly - managed to find a drink in the Padarn before closing. Went off to climb in the late afternoon. Needless to say the water is back on!.

Phil

Friday 1st July

Packed up and went home - howling gales and pouring rain - never known a week like this in the summer - it's good weather for March!!!

I hope it's better at Stanage for the weekend!! TARA Phil.

1st July

Arrived after a good session at P.L.H. A good weekend is assured...

Dave Jenkins Keith & Christine Gibson.

2-7-77

Set off from Ogwen, then on to Tryfan - Glyder Fach - Glyder Fawr and down Devil's Kitchen to Idwal. A great day despite very strong winds. (I was blown from in front and from behind as the lads had had a heavy night on the beer!).

3-7-77

Slight change in the weather today. Not only fresh to strong winds but low cloud covering just about everything. So it cleared nicely and we spend a great day in the Carnedds

2 July 77

KMC 635258 - 647238 - 649229 - 662234 - 661257 - 666270 - 658289 & back.

GW JP,LF & JH all above SH Kirkus' & Outside Edge RH & PB

3 July 77

To Lliwedd and all pts E.

9-7-77

8.30am start.

A fine dawn with the promise of yet another beautiful weekend, weather-wise.

Dave J did the Snowdon horseshoe and got down in good time for a couple of well-earned pints in the P.L.H. The peace and calm of Snowdon summit was rather shattered by parties of German hikers; forming human pyramids and frightening the children. But there were some right good views on route and I took a few good snaps.

Bill Leece/Eve Holligan - went to Cloggy

An excellent day. Gargoyle (HVS) and Great Slab (VS) after an inspection of Moss Groove. The day was full of accidents. A sheep lobbed down the East Buttress for the entertainment of the locals. A body fell out of Curving Crack and landed on its back, and a second had tried to catch a falling screw, which passed through his hand.

11.7.77

Helen and Dave arrived 6.00pm knackered in the sweltering heat. Followed shortly after by Colin & Mike.

Tue

Dave & Helen went to the Mot. Did Cracks, Western Slabs, Direct Route. Lovely day with no one else on the cliff most of the time. Colin & Mike went to the Slabs and did .

Wed

After an even earlier start we all arrived at Cwm Silyn at 2.00pm. We did Great Slab & Outside Edge (first time that I had been there).

Thur

Colin & Mike went to Crib Goch - Snowdon and down. D & H went to Cromlech and did Spiral Stairs & Dives/S.Stairs variation before crying off to dizzy spells probably due to lack of food & general apathy in the heat. TOMORROW WE WILL START EARLY!!!!!!

Thur evening

Enter the intrepid J.Peake (not on his bike). Quote "You havn't seen a Sekonda watch about have you?" - NO - 30 secs rummaging upstairs. "Well I'll have to give it up for lost". Exit the intrepid J.Peake.

Thur

Jack Elwell (Stourbridge) & Jerry Avery (Oxford) cordially invited to stay by Colin Hardy.... Had a fine "epicy" day. Paid our first visit to Cloggy and somehow managed to fall up Great Slab (V.S.)... We were very grateful to the corner for remaining dry... Jack lost his way about three times. Did 50' up The Arrow before he'd made an inconsequential route finding error. Later on while walking up the slab itself complained of the difficulties as he clambered over grass tussocks in the middle of the slab.... All in all a great day.

PHIL How's about an occasional newsletter sent down to the deep south - and what happened to those course details? Hope to see you soon.

Colin

Fri

Well we did start early & trudged our weary way up the railway and down into Cwm Glas up the side of Parson's Nose. Up Crib y Ddysgl arete - Snowdon and onto Yr Aran (neither of us had been up here before) and down to Rhyd Ddu and back over Telegraph Col. Quite knackered.

Sat

Eric & Eric went to the Mot & did Nexus (without aid) and Eric (little) soloed The Cracks. Simon & Bill went to do Main Wall but it was crowded so they went up to Parson's Nose - Snowdon - and back to Pen y Pass. Helen & Dave did Parchment Passage and then watched the Snowdon race start. Met Alan & Margaret in Padarn.

Sun

Middle of winter has descended. It prompted prussicing in the barn and plenty of tea drinking and cursing so we all went home and lived happily ever after.

20-7-77

Left the 'utt, 4.30pm up to Telegraph pass. Weather's overcast but bright spots there and here.

Over to Rhyd Ddu when it started raining so we took refuge in one of the quaint places were people stand about drinking coloured water.

Stopped raining so up to Y Garn and no further as we were rather tired and feeling peckish (no, Peckish didn't mind). Kipped at the top of Y Garn rising early next day...

...The next day, weather even worser, so went back to Rhyd Ddu, down the road and got lost on Moel Eilio. Got back to the hut as the weather improved somewhat. The evening was spent going blind in the P.L.H.

E L P R E S I D E N T E

H A S S P O K E N

"HOW'S ABOUT SOME MEANS OF IDENTIFICATION, MARTIN LACEY EXCEPTED, WE ALL KNOW WHEN HE'S WRITING!!"

Anon

Friday 22nd July

When the boys are away the president will play. Only male (no that's not open to question or debate) on a 4 person (for Phil's sake) meet.

Couple of pints and a scotch with my team Barb, Yvonne & Janet and off to bed!!

Woke up feeling knackered!!

Saturday 23rd July

Rain mist & fog & screaming winds, if it wasn't for the guests I'd wish I was in the Alps with the boys.

Reluctantly we set off. Yvonne & Janet buy a new pair of boots at Capel & visit, or at least one of them does, to try them out on Moel Siabod.

Barb & I after having spent an hour at Ogwen Cottage, were tempted out and decided to walk up to the waterfalls and the Watkins Track, as the weather deteriorated as soon as we got to Nant Gwynant.

Having seen the waterfalls and the shelled house and seen the Gladstone Rock, and still fairly dry ... we decided to walk on ... arriving an hour and a half later on the summit of Snowdon, absolutely soaked to the insides of underpants and knickers and weighing three times more with the weight of water.

But fear not Barb is coaxed, cajoled, prodded, threatened and finally tempted with the promise of a mug of tea in the cafe.

CAFE IS CLOSED!!!!

Barb breaks down hysterically and is last seen booting her newly aquired husband all round the cafe. Wish I was in the Alps with the boys!!! and .... that cafe owner!! (clue supplied by Martin Lacy for that missing word ... Passtime taken up by consenting couples if the telly breaks or you don't like Match of the Day on Saturday night).

Saturday and the P.L.H. is deserted but of course the boys are in the Alps. Anyway lads I had yours (pint of course, although the female clientel was improved).

Sunday

Still raining, gear moderately damp, much disillusionment. Hardest day decided upon by 9.30am over to Ian & Marg's for a natter. Wish I was in the Alps boys!

Have a good holiday all and we will see you soon.

P.S. We don't have our hols 'til September when yours are all finished (hee hee).

Barb & Dave

14 August 77

Nick & Joan Halls and son Mathew Halls stayed for 5 nights with some friends from the Lake District. Colin & Janet Downer and Chris & Pat & Adrian Bacon.

Climbed on Clog & Mot.

26th Aug 77

G7 C G7

I woke up this morning, had them Llanberis blues,

C G7

* I woke up this morning, had them Llanberis blues,

D

Looked over at my baby,

C

And sure enough she had 'em too.

Anon

* Dave Jenkins Meteor extraordinaire

Tue 30 August

Dave & Helen arrived after being washed out at Tremadoc. After our "Alpine" trip spent at the side of the road in Belgium, Luxembourg & especially Germany. A lightning visit to S Wales where it rained for a week. We are here to salvage something of our summer holidays but it looks like the weather will defeat us again.

Dave did:- (a few weeks ago)

Ivy Sepulchre Pass

One Step in the Clouds Tremadoc Various Partners Valerie's Rib (twice) ..

Hope (pouring rain) Slabs

Yellow Groove Pass

Kaisergebirge Wall ..

Western Slabs ..

Diagonal Route ..

Cenotaph Corner .. (seconded unfortunately) Trawsfynydd Gorge Walk (really good when there's bad weather cos it is sheltered & you're probably going to get wet anyway)!

Wed

Cleaned for a few hours & so we went for a walk over Dinorwic way & round the quarries.

Thur

Poured down all day.

5th Sept

Crackstone Rib } J.Peake
Skylon } S.Burnes

6th Sept

Off to the Mot to attempt the Cracks & Direct Route

We did The Cracks - J.Peake, S.Burns

Sept 9-11

Glen's Meet

Guess what? It rained. So we skate boarded.

October 14th

Arrived out on Friday to meet the ever-present Billy Ed at the P.L.H. John Peake & and Jan were also around, apparently enjoying things in the honeymoon suite. He hasn't dropped much gear lately!

15th

A beautiful day - blue skies, warm breeze and glorious sun!

Went round to Bochlwyd and climbed:

Arete & Slab } Phil Scratton & Dave Whitworth Chimney Climb }
Two Pitch Climb }
Marble Slab }

Arete & Slab } Sheila Scratton, (??? M.S.)
Chimney Climb } Andy Stewart
Two Pitch Climb } and (on another rope!) Chris Roberts
Five Pitch Climb } - who did Marble Slab twice!
Marble Slab }

And then we all went and did Sub-Cneifion Arete. Came down just before dark and went to Duggie! Then back where Billy Ed exclaimed that he had "just" done Horseshoe and Glyders. I suppose it's his long legs - he also claimed to have gone for a "dip" in Llyn Clyd!! He's mad!! Most be something in his diet!! We all went off to the Padarn!.

Phil S

14th Oct.

Arrived 1.45pm only managed one route.

Nea } S.Burns & J.Peake

15th Oct

Off to attempt Great Slab. J.Peake J.Edwards

15th October

Milestone Buttress: Lowering/improvised rescue & stretchers all morning - Phil lowered 80' in Alpine Basket - full of bruises.

Then in afternoon:

Direct Route } Phil Scratton & Dave Whitworth
Canopy } Sheila Scratton & Bob Chance
End Gut (reversed for descent!)

Direct Route } Andy Stewart & Chris Roberts
Soapgut }
Chimney Route }

Much of the climbing is harder than the guide suggests!! Weather was absolutely brilliant - sunny skies and warm breeze. A magic weekend.

Phil

27th October

Arrived 3.30pm Andy & Jenny Stewart.

Set straight off for Moel Eilio at 3.15pm. Good views from summit then it all became dark! back to hut by 6.00pm

28th October

Walking on the Moelwyns! Nantmor - Bwlch Battel - Cnicht - Llyn Addur - Llyn Llagi - Nantmor. Weather fresh winds and mist clearing occasionally.

Oct 19

There is something about eating marmalade butties while watching the sleet shake itself free from the veil of mist to caress the slab surface of Llyn Llydaw; or the gentle sound of slush lapping against the kneecaps and providing a suitable background for the rhythm of rain on a waterproof.. Such delights stir great thoughts and scientific conclusions can be made such as: gaiters with holes in leak; and the great problems of mankind can be grappled with: eg does one slip over more often when one can't see because one isn't wearing one's glasses than when one is wearing one's glasses but they are steamed up? A vital question indeed!

Of course sacrifices must be made. The "Dirty War of Harry Slade" must join that other temptress "Climber & Rambler" on the bookshelf. (It may be beneficial to add at this point that the past editions of "Climber & Rambler" have been read by so many people so many times that further issues of the same issue have now appeared to add a bit of variety). There is only one disadvantage to going out on days like this - it incites one to write drivel like this.

Saturday 10 Dec 77

Billy Ed's wonderful and literary artform (above) appears to have overshadowed other's potential... demoralised them, broken their confidence in their ability to scribble up their eventful moments. Yet I hear on the grapevine that the snow and ice has been excellent over the last few weeks and various combinations, usually including Eric and Bill and our hero Billy Ed, have been up and down the Trinitys (ies?) and the Parsley Fern gullies in fine style. It's a pity that the boys haven't been writing as half drunken scribblings are a fine and reliable source of scandal. Anyway following a week of end of term festivities Sheila and Phil came out to Caer Fran with a group of Widnes nutters - Billy Ed and Anne Hardman made up the numbers! We were met by young John himself (that's Billy Ed) at the door sometime around noon - he had made us tea, broken into the hut (NB Committee!) and was wearing London Ballet leg warmers (circa 1876). We grabbed some lunch and as the rain balleted down we had another cup of tea and set off up Moel Eilio. We were down again a couple of hours or so later having taken on the wind on the top - Billy Ed was in fine style - this ballet bit has really got to him - as he pirouetted on walls, did a series of high twists and twirls on trigpoints and a beautiful triple back fish flop... a fine day... for staying home and watching the ballet.

"Ballet Ed"

Sunday 11th Dec 77

Well some people have no luck!! Not only is this the first really bad week since we were last out in Wales but the minibus stuck in gear and we had to ditch it at Capel. We'd not had a bad day - messing around on the P y G track and Zig- Zags and down... kept dry fairly well - but the minibus was the last straw... Got a bus to Liverpool with Sheila's students - left hut 4.30pm arrived Widnes 11pm!! Had to repack to come out first thing tomorrow (left Annie & John at hut).

Phil

Monday 12 Dec 77

Edge Hill College of H.E. M.C. Christmas Meet.

Arrived out with new minibus and a group of Mountaineering Club yobs from Edge Hill... John the shepherd heard that the women were in town and came up to Caer Fran for tea. He gets rounder as he gets older! Apparently the whole gearbox is seized on minibus No1 and has been sullenly towed back to Widnes... I don't want to see the wreck again - you've got to turn the wheel as least 20 seconds before you get to a corner!! The weather still seems miserable... early night, heavy cold and no pub... this is Christmas?!!!

Phil

Tuesday 13 Dec 77

I suppose that after a half sleepless night in the company of snoring lackeys the best you could hope for would be a light drizzle and the occasional drip of water on the move... well we had both... the drizzle and the drip - the latter in the form of one John Edwards washed in on the early morning tide. If that wasn't all! He was bunking lectures to hold hands with us on the hill - so we packed him and John Snorer and Annie the Lune off in to the mists over from P y G to Carreg Fraith - Bwlch Tryfan - Bochlwyd. I went to Ogwen with the gang and did navigation work etc around Y Garn E. Ridge, Idwal, the Gribbin & Bochlwyd - some impressive compass work & map use was recorded - star of the show being young Rosey late of Cumbria! So we ate too much - what wasn't eaten was thrown at each other - and went to pub(?).

P.S. Billy Ed managed to get down before dark!

Phil

P.P.S. Phil didn't.

Wednesday 14 Dec 77

The weather forecast again proved accurate and we had localised rain throughout Snowdonia - just for a change! Undaunted, however, the "team" performed their navigation exercises admirably and I found myself on top of Eilio for the second time in a week - something of a record as this week has doubled my lifetime's ascents of Eilio - not my favourite walk!!! Anyway Rosey did us proud again in heavy clag managed accurate pacing and "nav" to "Telegraph" Col via Foel Gron. We left the col just as the evening was coming in and, needless to say, arrived back in the dark. We ate too much and went to the pub.

Phil

Thursday 15 Dec 77

My record for 1977 has been smashed, this is the fifth week that I've been away with groups for a full 5 days during the year and - you've guessed it - the sun was shining when we got up. The weather was cracker... December sunshine with low, fluffy, broken mist - we went to Oggie and one group took (navigating) us to Llyn Clyd. Then Rosey, Anne and myself continued up the N/E ridge to the summit of Y Garn - we had the lot - Bocken Spectres, Glories, Magic of the Winter - it was great - on to Foel Goch - into Cwm Perfedd and around to Oggie via Yr Esgir and Cwm Coch. John Mc and John Edwards had gone ahead at Clyd and they took in Perfedd and returned via the Old Road. We grudgingly squeezed every last second of light out of a beautiful day - my twenty sixth of weekly trips and the only one in which the sun winked. The high path back was a revelation - never been there before - but it's more like a ridge than a traverse halfway up a mountain - perhaps my judgement was coloured by the pinks, purples, browns of the most exciting December sunset in my last few years.

John and Billy Ed had returned and done a route up the West Wall of Tin Can Gully.

Back at the hut we ate, drank, read and went off to the alehouse. A great, last day!!

Phil S

Friday 16 December

After last night's debacle in which the girls won a resounding victory in a battle of immense proportions (thanks to the vanguard Billy Ed) we reluctantly packed our gear as the morning sun beamed through the windows... a terrible pity to leave on such a good day... We gathered several tons of dust, feathers etc off the floors and cleaned the hut pretty thoroughly. Off home to Liverpool - back in a few hours... Returned via Widnes, Ormskirk, Liverpool and Bangor in time for a bevie or two...

Phil S, Simon, Pam, John Mc B, Ann, Billy Ed, Mark, Sheila, Myself, Pete all came out tonight to honour Dave Allcock and his Christmas Meat.

Phil

Saturday 17th December

Got up late - all of us - played football. I.M.Marsh "Mens" team 6 M.M.C. Old Cronies 16. A resounding win for the boys. Went to pub, watched footy and put up decorations.

Billy Ed says he isn't an old crony.

They did not say that they did not play to the book or that I.M.M. team limped off with bruised shins and pulled hair .

Sunday

HAVE A COOL YULE!!

- They won again! 10 - 3