2/1/74

It is to be hoped that this, the first climbing day of the New Year is not indicative of what we are to expect of the new year.

After getting up late we made the foolhardy decision of climbing in the Pass, on the Grochan (foolhardy because no one else even bothered to climb anywhere in the Pass!). In a relapse into New Year madness we made an assault on the greasy and dripping Kaisergebirge Wall. The reasons for the uncomfortable descent from the crux are as follows:-

a. Too much to eat over Xmas
b. .. .. .. drink .. ..
c. Wall too greasy
d. .. .. wet
e. Leader not used to PA's
f. Too much slack in rope
g. Lack of general support from new J strap.
h. Cholesterol concentration in blood in excess of 80mg/ml
z. Leader has given up fags

The other route attempted by the party on that dismal day was Hazel Groove; the first two pitches having been led (the 2nd by the infamous and deadly right hand variation) the remainder of the party ascended to that part where it was decided the bad light stopped play.

Anyway and abseil was arranged using both full weight ropes. On reaching ground we found that - guess what - yes the ropes were well and truly jammed. not even the weight of three blokes could budge them.

By now it was pitch black but we were lucky in that another party were benighted on the crag and had left a full weight rope on their gear sacks. After much climbing and abseiling in the dark the ropes were retrieved and the other party gallantly rescued for which we earned a lift into Llanberis and a pint.

3.1.75

Saturday An uneventful trip out to the hut with not a single car on the road. (What would you expect at 4.00am? everyone else has got more sense).

Rose early on Saturday and feasted on the now usual Alan Brown b'fast. (For a moment I thought it was the feeding of the 5000 again).

Left the hut at 11.30 with Mr Turner (Geoff to you) and went to the Cromlech Stones via Joe's.

At Joe's a merry time was had by all and Alan, who'd been fondling the ice axes for some time suddenly decided, on the spur of the moment, quite out of the blue, upon an impulse, without fore-warning, taking everyone by surprise, bought a rope. But not just any rope, oh no, not for Mr Brown, it had to be 45 metres of kernmantle and not the one hanging up in the shop. It was a brand new one in a lovely shade of terk turq terquoise - bluey green.

Meanwhile back at the Cromlech our trio set off in intrepid Whillans tradition to fine the lost world of Esgair Felen but were repulsed by the soaring rock pinnacles of Dinas Cromlech.

So we decided to climb Flying Buttress while Geoff went for a walk.

By the time we got back to the hut we were fair clemed so at once got supper under way with a bottle of Chateau New Brighton '64.

Dave raved most of the evening and most of the night, about finishing climbing on F.B. as if it were a sexual experience.

The night was spent in the PAD sitting in ETTS having just ABBED off the north face of Fron Goch road (John Peake take note) {don't worry I don't understand it either}.

So the aleing continued late into the night. Breakfast consisted of two lightly boiled alka seltzer

Sunday

Intend to do some climbs near Silver Fountain via Joe's at Capel.

Sunday 5th

M Diggins, Kev Scribens, J Peake arrived out on Honda 250 and Bantam 175 respectively off to Capel to Join Al and Dave.

18.19 Jan 75

Sat Snowdon via Crib y Ddysgl - lots of snow.

Sun Nowhere - lots of rain!

I.F.Wilson M.L.Welsh

25/1/75

Aujourd'hui? Lewis Jones avec les grandes Glen Heeeerons (said quickly) on est tres, tres mal. Avec le grosbier. Maintnant Jean Mac (?? Francais). Bean arrive avec Joan (ou ai un grande Peake) Peak et son ami Geoff (avec un grand, grande epic) Tourner de epiques.

31/1/75

RAF Scampton Meat (Fried or Stewed) Mostly stewed?

01.30 Arrived amid force 9 gale (expected).

09.30 In the hurry to get out of the gale we forgot the supplies. Hence forth Gerry went without his Readybreck.

11.00 Left for Idwal Slabs, ten in a party one was Lone Ranger. Tut! Tut!

11.45 Arrived at Ogwen walked to Idwal Slabs climbed Hope and Ordinary Route.

15.00 Lone Ranger lost! Rob and Mac sent to top to look for him.

16.30 Found Lone Ranger (mutter, mutter).

17.45 All arrived at stagecoach (hired)

18.45 Arrived home (Club P.S. Thank you).

20.30 We all left for natural function (comes in pints)

Sat 10.00 All left for Tryfan, Grooved Arete (ridge) and liquorice allsorts (we don't know either) climbed with no difficulty.

17.00 After a good day climbing we all left for tea.

Sun The morning after the night before feeling prevented Rob from joining party in Llanberis. The weather today superb hence the Pass was very crowded.

14.00 All back to the hut for bull night? We all leave for the plains of Lincolnshire shortly. Thank you for the use of the hut it made our weekend a most enjoyable one.

21/2/75

Arrived 11pm to find Phil and Sheila on "scouting mission" of Glyders for bringing down party of students.

Saturday John and Ann to summit of Snowdon via Cwmbrwnynog and Cloggy in perfect weather. Hot sun, blue skies and only a cool wind on ridge. Only small amount of frozen snow on summit. Phil and Sheila on the Glyders and then to Portmadoc cafe, hoping to climb in Moelwyns. Let's hope weather holds - better than any "meet".

J Mc

21/22/23 Feb

Arrived Caer Fran at 5 on Friday - Polaris already established, went to Llanberis to F + C + Booze. John and Ann arrived late on, can't get away from them!!

Saturday - P y G - Glyders - Nant Peris. Day was beautiful, clear skies, snow and ice, superb walking in shirt sleeves.

Sunday - Moelwyns with John and Ann (Kirkus' Route/Slack) Phil and Sheila (Slack*/Bent)

* Sheila's 3a HVS variation most impressive!!

Fabulous days climbing, weather warm and dry....

If only M.M.C. could arrange their meets to coincide with weather like this... (but then there would be too many members to be able to get warm around the fire?? is it really a fire???) Phil and Sheila S.

Will the real fire please stand up??

28 Feb

Here again at 6pm with party from WJC (dart players, T.T.players, Snooker players extraordinaire) once again we managed to lose a tyre en route....

1 March

Early start Moel Siabod East Ridge via Gully.

Weather like Spring, warm and hazy - party in good trim - quick up to trig point and back to Capel via Ridge. Eventually, as usual, arriving for pre 3pm pints in Tyn y Coed. Weather turned whilst in pub.... by evening the wind/rain was the enemy - probably the determining factor (as usual) for tomorrow.... also certain members are feeling the pace.

Evening in Pad Lake - managed to lose John (Mc Bean) to another group (groupie).... perhaps he will never return.... hope not, I owe him £3...

2 March

John returned early hours and performed a feat of daring from the top of the stairs - took party climbing 1st to Capel Curig and then on Little Tryfan - weather OK. Thanks for the hut use!!! Phil & Sue

8 March

Off to Tremadoc or Crib Goch - depends if it rains in 10mins (Al B. Al M. & Di(guest))

Sat. Drove to Anglesey - nothing done } planted trees

Sun. To Dinas Mot. Plexus - Fell off } twice

J Mc

15th March

Ian Wright + Steve Scranton:- Cwm Glas - N Ridge - Crib Goch - Snowdon Summit - Ridge to Pass. Fantastic day - weather perfect, sun, snow and ice.

15th March

Cwm Glas - Crib Goch - weather superb, snow superb, whole day superb - sorry you missed it. Ian

16th March

To Carnedds. Weather looks superb, snow superb.

15th March

S Milnes, T Lewis, A Brown

Snowdon via Railway Track and road, Weather superb. Summit views excellent, good hard snow.

16th March

S Milnes, T Lewis, A Brown

Excursion up Moel Eilio - maybe.

P.S. substitute T Cotterell for T Lewis.

Danger

The Padarn has an explosives licence, they now sell (wait for it!!) Younger's Scotch Bitter.

22 Mar

I F Wilson, M L Welsh, - Horseshoe

23 Mar

I F Wilson, P P Davis - Horned Crag route.

Wednesday 26th March

John McB, Trev Cotterell, Phil & Sheila S all arrived via Plas y Brenin and P.L.H.

Beautiful moonlit night - looks like a good deal of snow on the hills...

Thursday 27th March

Phil/Sheila, John and Trevor.

Woke to a new fall of snow and clear blue sky. Ascent: Cwm Cneifion - Llyn y Cwm - Glyder Fawr. Superb above Llyn to Glyder Fawr a fine icefield with new snow on ice. Blizzard developed here - walked on compass to Glyder Fach - continual blizzard, almost white out. Arrival at Glyder Fach, the skys cleared - views of Carneddau, Tryfan, Snowdon Horseshoe, Siabod, Cnicht etc. were absolutely outstanding. Descent to P y G. A tremendous day with most winter ingredients.

Friday 28th March

John Mc B left for Austria via London complete with blown exhaust!!!

Bill Sutherland arrived with two friends (John/Rosemary) and Simon arrived too.

Weather = tremendous, fresh fall of snow overnight, slightly overcast.

Phil/She, Bill, John/Rose, Trevor & Simon - Black Ladders. Rose wandered back to the car, the rest of us decided to ascend icefield/gully to Carneddau Ridge.

Snow/mist came in after we had completed gully - bad condition. Decided to traverse and drop down, after some back climbing we eventually dropped down to valley. Mist cleared - we had been 11ft short of ridge and it would have been easier to have gone on than to have dropped down!! The views, sun, snow, cloud etc of B Ladders on our return were fantastic....wish you were here!!

Saturday 29th March

Phil under the weather, achilles tendon.

Bill .. .. .. cold!!

Dropped Trevor/Simon off to do Crib Goch and returned Llanberis. Snow/ice good again. Bill/Sheila/Phil walked up Cloggy, despite complaints decided on a gully on the east end....ice not too good, after going up the snowfield to the gully, a traverse left and then off....walk down to car - Phil nearly put it in a ditch. Back to hut via Wendy's - an easy day.

Fred & Bett, Dave Salter, Nick Jones and very, very much later Pete Smith/Mark Diggins arrived.

Saturday 29 March

After being dropped off by Phil at Pen y Pass we went up the P y G track, Crib Goch, Crib y Ddysgl and up to the summit. Weather was fine up to this point and as far as the eye could see there were snow covered mountains. The summit of Snowdon was like an ant hill with lots of people unequipped for the wind and snow that finally came and limited visibility to a hundred feet or so. Came down railway to Caer Fran for tea.

Trevor/Simon

Sunday 30 March

Pete Smith and Mark Diggins went off to the ice in Cwm Glas.

Fred/Dave Salter/Phil & Sheila/Nick/Trevor and Simon did the Nantle Ridge. Fred/Trev/Simon did a gully on the ridge, the rest went up to the Carnedd Goch Shoulder, met on Craig Cwm Silyn, then Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd, Trum y Ddysgl, Mynydd Drws y Coed and finally Y Garn and a quick grass hop down to the Rhyd Ddu car park. There is seldom better weather in Wales, Crisp firm snow on top, cool fresh winds, clear blue sky and sun all day long. A fine day, yet another in a truly memorable week. The evening, minus pubs, meant canned ale, cheese and a splendid Antartic slide show from Dave Salter. Monday 31st March

Mark went off with Phil to Trinity Gully, but they were probably disappointed by the ice as a thaw had set in. Nick, Trevor, Simon Phil/Sheila all went round to Ogwen after much deliberation. The weather has finally broken, mist and rain returning... N,T, and S ran up North Ridge of Tryfan, while P & S rested Phil's ankle....Weather became increasingly miserable. Returned to Caer Fran to find many "happy families" dashing here and there.* Phil & She are sleeping with Nick tonight as a result of the invasion...She doesn't mind, but Phil is worried (he's on the bottom bunk!!).

* Another cock up on the meets/hut booking!!!

Discovered in the pub later that Bill and Mark (solo) and George had done Left Hand Trinity G. On final pitch, apparently bemused by last nights ale and slushy ice, he found fairly unique belay...none other than the trig point on Snowdon!!! We all met for a bevvy in Vic in the evening George/Fred, Bill Trevor, and Simon all departed for home. During a discussion about Di backing into things, Nick reversed into the wall of the P.L.H. destroying the back window.

Tuesday 1st April

Well, there is no doubt about it, Fred has played the biggest April Fool on us with no less than 24 people in Caer Fran for breakfast!!

Needless to say we had an early start and with diversions on Fred's behalf for wicks and paraffin we (Nick, Phil and Sheila) went off to Nant Peris: Elidir Fach, Elidir Fawr, Mynydd Perfedd, Foel Goch and off by Afon Gafr. Decided against Y Garn as Nick had to make his peace in Tarbuck!! Arrived back at hut to find Dave, Sheila and Ann Sanderson...that makes 6 in the downstairs bedroom. If anyone else arrives tonight we've had it as all available mattresses (3 with visitors, 2 with us) are used. I think a word is needed in H.W's lughole!

Wednesday 2nd April

Ann disappeared early to Caernarfont!!! The rest fought for survival in the kitchen... Weather is damp and misty, but it will probably clear... sadly today is our las day (until next Sunday!) and eventually we will make our way back to the 'pool. The last week has been outstanding. the combination of snow/ice/sun/wind/blizzards etc have been just right. We've managed a fair amount of work in perhaps the best week's conditions I can remember in Wales.. Phil's achilles tendon has bugged him all week and P & S's colds have been truly spread throughout the club. It's like the walking wounded with Ann's arm in a sling.... The only problem of any significance has been the embarrassment caused to members and visitors over hut bookings... Still nothing could mar a tremendous week in the hills.

As for today? well after sorting and packing we'll make our way up the Pass and see what the weather brings. See you next week!!

Phil & Sheila

Sunday 26th April

Widnes J.C. Outdoor Activities Course.

Sheila and Phil Scratton.

Arrived Caer Fran around 6 with a party of 9 students to find that since Wednesday the hut has undergone considerable changes! The downstairs windows are great.... the departing working party looked tired after what must have been a hard working weekend. Bill was hoping to return on Monday if his firm went on strike! Ann was staying in the hut for a further week. After Sunday roast we unpacked and talked our way to sleep.

Monday 7th April

Introductory navigation/map use.

Low level walk became Telegraph Col - Foel Goch - Foel Gron - Moel Eilio as the clear weather made ideal conditions for compass work. Returned to the hut via reservoir behind at approx 4pm. trip to Llanberis for supplies then an hours theory and planning for Tuesday. Dinner. P.L.H.

Tuesday 8th April

High level walk/ more advanced navigation/

P.Y.G. Hotel - Glyder Fach - Bwlch Ddwy - Glyder Fawr Llyn Cwm y Ffynnon -P.Y.G.

Extreme snow and ice conditions on tops with very heavy blizzards and winds forced a retreat after Glyder Fach. Unintentionally became an introduction to basic snow and ice techniques!! Superb day for snow and ice. Two of the party walked from P.Y.G. to Caer Fran. Dinner. P.L.H.

John McB arrived to give us a hand.

Wednesday 9th April

Navigation route from grid references only/ Capel - Ogwen route: Capel - Nature Track - Mac's Track - Ffynnon Llugwy - Llyn Ogwen. One hours theory/ planning in hut. Phil and Sheila went up to Ffynnon Lloer - lower Carneddau ridge - snow and ice superb. Lloer frozen as was river (Afon Lloer). Weather: occasional blizzards. All members of the group, working in 3's completed the route successfully. John had been on Y Garn (from Nant Peris via Elidir Fawr) Ann did a snow/ice climb, solo above Lloer. Dinner. Dominoes. P.L.H.

Thursday 10th April

"Environmental" day... Slate Museum, Llanberis. fascinating museum/collection and well explained by the blokes who worked there prior to the quarry closure in 1970. Puts the view from Caer Fran into real perspective. On to Beddgelert and eventually to do some climbing (after the rain stopped) at Nant Peris crags. Eventually home (C.F.). Dinner. P.L.H.

Friday 11th April

Introductory rock climbing.

Spent a mild/overcast day (after a promising start) jumping around on Little Tryfan. It's an excellent place to start and those with more experience in the party made light work of it. Back for dinner. P.L.H.

Saturday 12th April

Carneddau High Level Walk

Ffynnon Llugwy - Craig yr Ysfa - Llewelyn - 3185 - Dafydd - Ffynnon Lloer - Tal y Llyn (Ogwen).

After route planning and some theory we set off up Mac's track. Cloud at approx 2000' and fairly dense. Quite a mild day, it never rained, we walked on bearings all day, crunched down through the last of the snow to Lloer and back home via the Vaynol. Dinner. last night at P.L.H.

Simon and Trevor had done Spiral Stairs and Flying Buttress.

John McB had a great day on Cnicht.

Geoff Turner and his mate had arrived at the hut via the Glyders, Y Garn, Elidir Fawr.

Sunday 13th April

Rock Climbing: Plas y Brenin Crags.

Weather turned out to be showery and after much deliberation we left the crags and went for a quick run up to Bochlwyd. The weather cleared and it was a fitting end to a good week. Everyone enjoyed themselves and THAT is the main criterion for outdoor activities....

The leaders and students of the party extend their thanks to the M.M.C. Committee for the use of the hut.

Sheila and Phil Scratton.

School Trip 2. Paddington have returned!! de de da der

The stone walls having been mended and the locals finally having forgotten us we returned.... We shattered the peace, the Railway Inn being the first to groan as they decided we were unsuitable for them. (Welsh peasants!!) The hotel was the next as they refused the driver a bed as he was driving us from "Paddington". I bet it was them there that what stole our rucsac like (phoney southern accent).

Despite the Welsh peoples efforts to upset us we managed to enjoy ourselves tee hee. In fact giggling has been the order of the week, the giggles did stop though when they had to abseil down the cliffs at South Stack, after a few hard climbs as well, hysteria took over and Karen (carry a lot) Clarke finally cracked up over the dishes in the sink. She had to be carried away sobbing incoherently.

This year the young Joe Browns of the world alias Kim (Strider) Page and Janet (sit down at any excuse) Grainger actually made it up the hill within the hour. I feel proud that my two years of extensive training has finally produced results with them. All's not in vain folks!.I am also pleased to report that the same young man that shook himself off Oberon led a climb and did not split a pair of trousers in the process. (Quite a feat!!). Another improvement on last year is that I actually managed to get the group to walk seven, yes folks, seven, miles - can you believe it? Poetic licence made Phil (Homer) Black report to his parents that he walked ten and to his auntie he walked 15, by next week it will be at least 25.

(The rightful pride in getting us all to walk 7 miles is far outdone by the pride Lyn should have in pulling 6 of our hefties up a sheer 45ft rock face! Lyn to be known as "Muscles Clarke" from now on!!)

(P.S. It was going to be 25 miles but who in their right mind would believe that I walked 25 miles when I won't walk around the corner for me misus)

Philip (Homer) Black.

I fear for the safety of one of our tribe Debbie (insult a lot) Coster has finally insulted her near last. (If there is a freshly dug mound when next you visit Caer Fran - it's Debbie).

Today the coach driver Dave took us on a buffalo hunt and had us reversing up the road looking for them, needless to say they'd just been shot so we missed them! Caroline (believe anything) Bol was very disapointed!! but she was made up to hear a real Jonsie saying "Boyo"!! The last day was spent touring the area and resting after the exploits of the week, we were even too tired to have our barbecue. After an extensive clean we left to return again maybe!!

Lin Clark

26th April 1975

27th April 1975

25th April 75

Phil/Sheila/John McB + party from Edge Hill arrived and went to the pub. Trevor and Simon came down. John and Phil beat Joe Brown + another at darts!!

26th April

Party went climbing (introduction) on Little Tryfan, several hardy walkers returning to Caer Fran on foot via Y Garn after a days climbing.

Weather really good.

Trevor and Simon did Crackstone Rib and Wrinkle and eventually T peeled off Ribstone Crack and escaped a 20ft drop with a dented crash lid. Visited P.L.H. for drinks.

27 April

Several of the group with Phil, Sheila and Simon did the Cnicht Ridge, to Dogs??? lakes in glorious sunshine. All needed sun lotion, though we had none!! 3 went off to Bangor. John and Trevor climbed Nea and Skylon.

3rd May

Roger Bannon and guest Alec Brown arrived 5 o'clock to meet Fred Smith at 2 o'clock. Seven other members present, Phil Scratton, John Mc Bean, Bob Piercy, Sheila Scratton, Simon Lewis, Enid Smith, and ??? ??? (sorry about Surnames not known) They were watching the Cup Final!

4th May

Fred, Roger and Alec - The Wrinkle and Spiral Stairs. Weather perfect. On our return Fred Smith stuck into an hour and a half of hard labour digging a trench to drain the path leading to the hut uncovering a spring at the same time.

5th May

Fred, Alec, Roger North Ridge of Tryfan. Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach and Fawr and down the Gribin. A superb day. On arriving back at the hut the path had begun to dry so it looks as if Fred's trench digging was worthwhile.

Roger Bannon.

10th May 1975

10 - 11 May

What promised to be a good meet degenerated into a gastronomic obstacle course and by 9.30 Saturday evening several members had to be lifted bodily out of their seats, due to an excess of MEET BALLS, (or is that meat balls?) to drag themselves down to the pub. So rife were the comments (some too rude to print) on the BALLS that all of the routes, climbs and festers done were lost in a welter of groans at the arrival of more balls. It was heard that one party set of to Tryfan and on to Glyder Fawr - Glyder Fach - Twll Du - Ogwen. But the party bifurcated and an intrepid duo forged a new route to Pen y Gwryd previously untrodden (even by the sheep). The rest of the party completed their mission meeting on their descent to Llyn Idwal other ascending members who's names I can't remember.

Sunday Morning.

John Peake and Roger Clegg escaped to an unknown destination to do some easy? routes. As good as the breakfast was it was totally eclipsed by those now infamous MEETBALLS. And in true Caer Fran tradition decision making was as precise as ever regarding the day's programme. Those unfortunate enough to attend the meet were Alan & Margaret Mullock, Glen & Margaret Hirons and Ray and Roy Edwards, Albert Shepherd, Denny and Kate Jones, Bill Sutherland, Dave (knee jam) Jenkins, Simon Lewis, Pete Woof, Sara Milnes, John Peake, Roger Clegg and Me.

Alan Brown

Any suggestions regarding excess meat balls should be addressed to the M.O.D. via G Hirons.

Belated entry.

May 3

Phil's birthday party.

Watched Cup Final... group: Sheila & Phil, Bob & Enid, Trevor & Simon, John Mc B.

Fred & friend arrived....see May 3 entry.

May 4

Met Pete, Alan & Mark (White Streak & Kirkus')

Phil Scratton.

May 17th

Stanage: with party (Phil & She & John McB.

Sociology
Anatomy
Physiology
Twin Chimney (Left & Right)
Capstone Chimney
Crack & Cave
and diverse unnamed others.

Phil S.

May 23

Arrived via mechanics and fixed manifold with Denny and went to P.L.H.

Phil & Sheila

May 24

Met Bill Sutherland, John Peake and Simon Lewis on the way to Anglesey to rendezvous with Pete, Lyn and Shirley. Inherited Simon and walked up Moel Hebog. Dinner & P.L.H.

Phil & Sheila & Denny

May 25

Holyhead Mountain

Everyone returned to Caer Fran

(Phil, Sheila & Denny via Ian Wright at RAFA Club)

Sun

Sat

Most eventful, left minus 1 contact lens, 5 chocks, 5 krabs left in ocean.

Extracts from an interview by Michael Parkinson of our intrepid hero Omar J Peake. Sometime in the late 70s.

(

O.J.P. is the only member who can scramble an egg without touching it!!!)

(

O.J.P. enters to music: a selection from "Calamity Jane" and "Strangers in the night").

M.P. "Ee by gum lad, ows tha doin?"

O.J.P. "Well, er, Eamon, sorry, Michael, actually I went to the wrong studio tonight. I thought that I was on the London train but I must have been mis-directed at Crewe. Stuart Hall sent me back from Manchester on a bus and it broke down near Newcastle.... ehm, yes, I'm sorry I'm late..."

M.P. "Ee dont matter, lad, what's one week between friends?....Tha's always been t'unlucky sort a lad, aint tha? Can thee tell us abaht tha most famous invention, th' slippery hitch?"

O.J.P. "Well, er, yes, sorry, Michael...It was climbing on Gogarth in the mid 70s, with our old mate Martin Lacey....I was abseiling down The Pel and I lost a contact lens....I tied a knot for my krabs etc. and half way down....well, it slipped....I lost 5 krabs and 5 chocks in the sea...."

M.P. "Ee, lad, tha's unlucky"

O.J.P. "Yes, er, Michael, I burnt two holes in my new jumper as well...."

M.P. "Ee, aye, lad, that was t'week after tha lost tha guide book up a climb, around the time tha was almost benighted on Pillar?"

O.J.P. "Yes, er David, sorry, Michael....I seem to be unlucky....I have a compass and that sort of thing....I got them from a bloke called Alan Brown".

M.P. "Ee, lad, Tha's now the only member left of M.M.C. ist' tha't right?".

O.J.P. "Well, yes, the slippery hitch has been useful". M.P. "Ee, lad, before tha finishes tell t'me what tha uses for after shave, it pongs reet fine well, like a baby's bum".

O.J.P. "Well, yes, Michael....it's actually called Mountain Twilight by Max Farter....I think that's his name....It seems to go down well in the P.L.H. of a night....I use it to attract seconds. It helps to direct the Mountain Rescue, especially if I,m upwind....Must go now Eamonn, I mean Michael....I've a plane to catch....I'm the only passenger on the flight, strange isn't it?".

Whit Monday 26th May

Weather continued to be glorious....

John and Martin went off to Cloggy. Simon, Phil and Sheila, Denny and ,eventually, Bill all went to little Tryfan and did several of the more difficult routes there. The Pass was jam-packed with climbers....

Tuesday 27th May

Denny, Simon, Phil & Sheila: Tryfan North Ridge, Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr, Devil's Kitchen - Ogwen. Weather has been fabulous ever since we came down.

Wednesday 28th May

Glorious day. Set off up to Moel Eilio along to Foel Gron, Moel Cynghorion and on to Snowdon, down rail track to hut. Arrived at hut to find Dave J and Sheila S settling in. After tea, persuaded Dave to do a route in the Pass so we set off for Carreg Wastad and The Wrinkle, home via Padarn Lake Hotel.

Thursday 29th May

Spent another enjoyable day on little Tryfan. Weather still glorious, Dave and Sheila left for home. WALKED back from Capel Curig via P y G Hotel, Vaynol Arms Hotel and P.L.H. Arrived at hut exhausted to find Anne Maloney and Rich Cartwright had arrived via Moel Eilio Ridge. Martin Lacey also arrived from Anglesey. Returned to P.L.H.

Friday 30th May

Set off early on a glorious morning with Anne, Rich and Martin for Dinas Cromlech and Spiral Stairs. Simon and Rich completed the climb but Martin and Anne had to retire due to Anne being unable to make the tricky first move. Moved on to Clogwyn y Grochan where Martin, Rich and Simon did Phantom Rib, while Anne took photos of the ascent from the hill opposite. Abseiled down from top as Martin late for meeting with mate in Vic hotel. Spent evening in P.L.H.

Saturday 31st May

Rich and Anne set off for Nantle Ridge, weather still fantastic. Martin and Simon set off for Dinas Mot where yours truly did his first VS lead on Western Slabs - a really enjoyable experience. Moved back into the sunshine on Carreg Wastad via the hot dog van in the Cromlech's car park. Being a glutton for punishment I agreed to lead Ribstone Crack and Shadow Wall - a truly harrowing experience, but extremely enjoyable. Back to hut for tea, and ale in P.L.H.

Sunday 1st June

RAIN!!

Martin set off with Alan Stewart for the Cromlech, Rich and Anne intending to do the Carnedds, and me down to Nant Peris to meet Trevor, who was camped there.

Simon Lewis

Saturday 14th June 75

21st June 75

22nd June 75

28th June 75

Fred, Bett, Dave, Barbara, Bill a walk up Cnicht and a hunt for a camera case in Cwm Edno. Weather great.

Sunday 29th June

Another great day and a trip to Cloggy was the order of the day.

Fred and Bett work about the hut, well that's their excuse. Alan and Margaret work about another hut and a tale about a monstrous thistle attacking Alan. Then an ascent - Anne Maloney, Kath, Caroline, of Yr Aran, went for a swim.

July 5th

Me (Dave J) and Alan Brown, after much umming and ahing set off to Snowdon via Eilio, Foel Gron, Foel Goch. Fantastic day. We both got sunburnt. met the others down on Cloggy which looked very dry.

July 22

Alan and Margaret arrived about 7 o'clock accompanied by the usual weather. It is, to put it mildly, raining quite hard. We havn't been to the pub. Perhaps tomorrow (lunch time).

July 23

An entertaining start to the day! having put the grill on for toast, I was, a few minutes later recalled to the kitchen by the most foul smell. A mouse had decided to commit suicide in some old fat in the grill pan and was gently sizzling away. Alan declined to consume this extra delicacy with his bacon and eggs, so we evacuated the place opening as many doors and windows as possible, while the smell wafted away on the Welsh wind.

This diversion over, we fumigated everything in sight and headed for the hills, via Llanberis. Devil's Kitchen - Y Garn - Foel Goch - Mynydd Perfedd - Elidir Fawr return via Cwm Coch to Ogwen. Got chased by lunatic fringe police cadets and later by lunatic fringe sheepdog who got too involved in his sheep rounding.

July 24th

Late start, 1.30. Moel Eilio - Foel Gron - Foel Goch - Moel Cynghorion. return via Cloggy and Halfway House. Weather miserable - rain and clag. Mice overslept also.

July 25th

Snowdon Horseshoe in better weather at last. Summit crowded as expected - even lots on Lliwedd.

July 26th

Slab Direct on the Gribin. MM's first route for over six years. Only diversion was appearance of strange man in Saville Row mac, patent leather shoes, and leather briefcase at bottom of crag - maybe selling insurance policies?

July 27th

Still nobody else at hut, so a late start. Pen yr Ole Wen - Carnedd Dafydd - Carnedd Llewelyn - Craig yr Ysfa - Pen Yr Helgi Du - down via Helgi Ridge back to Ogwen Cottage. Returned to hut to find Neil (mate) chomping at the bit to do a route. So down pass at 8.30 to Grochan. Neil having just got back from two years in African Bush, decided to carry on where he left off and led Brant Direct - naturally I didn't succeed. Neil (now ex-mate) abseiled down to jam the ropes. By now black (he's used to this in the bush) so up Brant to retrieve ropes and another abseil.

July 28th

Left for Liverpool - still in a state of shock from yesterday.

A.M.

M.M (grilled mouse a speciality)

August 27

Anne and Cierry arrived just in time to explore the Llyn Padarn Country Park and woods across the lake.

Aug 28

A glorious day. Set off to do Crib Goch and Snowdon and ended up doing the Horseshoe - first time for me and Cierry's first time in Wales!

Aug 29

Mist had descended and hardly cleared the whole day. Set off hopefully for the Glyders but ended up scrambling around Devil's Kitchen.

Aug 30

Mist and rain once again. Left for L'pool midday.

A Maloney.

Sep 5

Phil and Sheila, Geoff Turner and Ann Sanderson arrived.

Sep 6

Late start!! Phil's suspension (at least, the car!!) collapsed again but this time was soon put right by the magic of the Welsh Garage!!

Geoff and Ann searched for North Rib on Tryfan and Phil and Sheila picked a more individual route over the North Ridge.

Sep 7

Another late start!!! Not too sure were we are going but Ann and Sheila set off early with poly bags hoping to collect seven pie measures of blackberries before we all meet in Llanberis and decide where we are going. Eventually we did Y Garn from Ogwen Devil's Kitchen and down.

12th Sept

Phil, Sheila and Anne (Sanderson) arrived early evening and departed to P.L.H.

13th Sept

Anne and I said our fond farewell to Phil as he set off back to Liverpool at 8.30am to meet Bill and Co ready to depart to Lundy Isle until Tuesday. (It's alright for some!!). Anne and I took advantage of the early start and spent 1/2hr collecting blackberries! We then set off via Telegraph Col over Rhyd Ddu intending to do the orienteering course in Beddgelert Forest. However, having arrived in the valley the weather was so nice and Snowdon so inviting we changed plans and set off up Snowdon from Rhyd Ddu via Llechog Ridge. Continued eventually back to hut over Cloggy and Moel Cynghorion. Excellent day.

14th Sept

Late start. Anne and I set off from Nant Peris - Cwm Cneifion - Glyder Fach - Glyder Fawr to Pen y G.

Returned to hut to be served an excellent salad by our "hut warden"!

Sheila S

13th Sept

Shot off to Lundy via Liverpool/ Altrincham and all points South. Stormbound on mainland for 2 days. Two nights proved to be more interesting....spent one night in double bed with our president (guess what I found!!) and another under Ilfracombe Pier (whatever turns you on!!). On the 16th we crossed to Lundy during sunrise and did Devil's Slide. Other routes were on the Dewerstone : Ordinary Route (before we crossed) Beeline

Lundy is great....Phil.

Phil Scratton can't spell Dewerstone no matter how clever he thinks he is.

19 Sept.

Phil and Sheila, Simon came out. Found a pair of the hut warden's best trousers in the lady's dormitory (what did he go home in?).

20 Sept

Phil & She and Simon climbed at Holyhead - 2 routes not yet known as we had no guide (true pioneering spirit). Went to Ian's (Wright) who had been collecting mushrooms at Carme Head via helicopter. Enjoyed dinner there and returned to hut. Trevor was lying in hut, fed up, after running into a Rover on his new scooter on Capel Curig Road!! Bill arrived in P.L.H. slightly inebriated after his day out at a wedding (I don't think he was invited). back to the hut from pup to find Alan Short outside, having come down without his key. The Caer Fran security officer will be glad to know that ALL attempts at breaking or entering had been frustrated.

21 Sep

Climbing in Moelwyns? Yes Kirkus' Route } Simon & Paul Slick}

Phil

27th September 1975

The Parson's Nose, John Peake, Dave Jenkins.

Fantastically bad conditions, extremely knackering, especially after 5am arrival at the hut and 8am start in addition to the ULTIMATE driving WIND and RAIN. UGH! (!!!)

Saturday

Dave and Bob, hell bent on doing something, decided to venture up Y Garn past Llyn Idwal (this was like mid Atlantic in midwinter). We eventually reached the summit after 2 hours battling against increasingly revolting conditions and had lunch. From here we rather foolishly decided to walk on to Glyders Fach and Fawr but 20 yards from the summit we were promptly warned to retreat when Dave was lifted on the wind and dumped 20 yards away. This we very quickly did, the wind now being the worst we had ever experienced and so to the Ogwen tea shack to recuperate and reflect on the fact that hang-gliding is all very well but not very pleasant without the glider.

See you soon Dave and Barb (the toast pincher)

Sunday

It's 12 noon, wind still very high but it's stopped raining. Best suggestion up to now has been Silver Fountain Direct for a well earned festerers pint and to watch match of the day.

P.S. It's nice to be out in all this wind and rain as normal, we can't stand all that sun and Ambre Solaire.

Ta ta for now D & B

P.P.S. If anyone finds a contact lens between the gents bathroom and the gents dormitory, it's mine

John Peake.

13th September (late entry)

Decided to camp in Pass. Set off to Dinas Mot - weather not too bad but rain immanent. Western Slabs to start followed by Direct Route - Great Day - walked to P.L.H. for drinks.

14th Sept

Late start too Carreg Wastad, originally intending to do Bole Way but at top of pitch 2 on mad impulse went left onto Old Holborn - what a route! When we eventually sat panting on the top we realised that we had missed the bus. Everybody arrived at Chester 11.30 and only got home through efforts of Simon's dad and car.

Simon & Trev

Friday 17th October

Arrived with some of Sheila's students to find many changes in appearance of hut....two lights instead of one!! table position (strategic management technique!) altered, coat hooks have vanished (nowhere to hang our male chauvanists from) and, well well!, a Carpet in the lounge. Rumour has it that our Hut Warden visited the hut last week or maybe the table(?)15 of stone decided on a little apres pub vandalism....thanks for the cigar you left behind, old chap!!

Saturday 18th October

Weather beautiful, clear and dry, early start. Party went over to Ogwen: - Tryfan - Bristly Ridge - Glyders (Fach & Fawr) - Y Garn and back to Ogwen.

Ate too much for dinner - no room for ale!!

Sun 18th Oct

Another beautiful day. Half the group went to the Pass climbing. Other half had a walk over Moelwyn Mawr and Moelwyn Bach. All left for home leaving Sheila and 3 (Mike, Val, Hazel) to stay until Mon evening.

Fri 23 Oct to Sun 25 Oct

Kitchen Roof Workmeet

The magnificent seven who had "volunteered" to put a new roof on the kitchen, and a new window in the wall, arrived Friday. the weather looked ominous with rain and high winds. Trevor and Fred came Friday morning and . after moving a cooker out for use elsewhere, proceeded to install a mezzanine floor which was to make the roof job much easier on

Saturday. The roof was removed with gay abandon next day while Dave Clarke slept - no he wasn't slacking he worked all night Friday to remove the plumbing an provide a cold supply for the weekend. The main roof timbers and sheeting had been delivered by Nick, Fred and Glen on Wednesday evening (or should it be night?) and Nick used his circular saw to rip the timbers down the middle. The roof was in position and weather proofed by 7.00pm Dave by now was back at work after 3 hours sleep. Gauleiter Smith had a cold - by the time the roof was on his voice had disappeared and the meet took advantage of this, by ignoring his hand signals, and beetled off to the pub for the last hour. Kate stayed with Fred at the hut where peace and quiet were most pleasant with the mob away.

Sunday

Another fine day - no excuses for idleness so work commenced about 8.30am. Dave finished the plumbing, Trevor and Simon completed the roof while Fred, aided by Alan, filled in holes, rendered walls etc. Coffee and the most marvellous food - home baked cakes, pies, stews, casseroles - you name it we had it. The hardest work was the late clear-up on Sunday night - there seemed to be more dirt than the total rubble removed.

But the job is 90% done and it seems to be a great improvement thanks to:

Nick Jones, Glen Hirons, Kate Jones, Trevor Cotterell, Alan Brown, Dave Clarke, Simon Brown and Fred Smith.

Sunday 26-10-75

We (Dave & Sheila) arrived in time to admire the results of the work meet.

Rushed off earlyish Monday morning to do a nice gentle walk. So we decided to do the north face of Tryfan. We reached the top in a remarkably quick time even though I lost our way once or twice.

Returned to the "wheels" via Llyn Bochlwyd and Ogwen. Ate well on yet another Sanderson feast then down to the "Pad" for a 1/2.

(Has anybody got any idea as to what to do with the barman in the Padarn? there's nothing down for 'im).

1st Nov 75

Arrived via P.L.H. in pouring rain on Friday night. Awoke early Saturday morning to the sound of drumming rain. Enjoyed a marvellous breakfast, during the preparing of this the cook (Barb) was thoroughly soaked by the dripping roof! Climbed eventually into the car heading for the Black Ladders, but alas the intrepid party was driven back by the rain. Reluctantly we retired to the Padarn for liquid consolation. Here the thoughts turned to a mass chess tournament. Competitor's list:-

Dave Boris Spasky Graham
Simon Bobby Fisher Lewis
Barbara Noddy McRoberts

This was narrowly won, not entirely legally by "Boris". After a well earned glass of vino an assault on the as yet unconquered traverse of the dining table was decided upon. (See below for route). This was cracked in great style by the intrepid pair of hardmen helped by yet another glass of vino. After a huge meal we retired exhausted to the P.L.H. for a victory drink.

Sunday

This saw the end of the rain, so the first job after breakfast was the weatherproofing of the roof. We sealed all we could, until supply of black sticky stuff ran out. We then retired for coffee to discuss plans for the rest of the day. Set off to Cloggy with only a few hours light left, probably do White Slab or something.

Party - Dave (which way to the pub) Graham, Barb (Cordon Blue) McRoberts, Simon (try anything once) Lewis.

8 - 9th Nov

Party arrived 3.00am after A.G.M. and Fred and Bett's do. Meet got away to a good start by the meet leader (Alan) being violently ill.

Early rise, believe it or not, saw most of the party going to the Pass.

Mark, Trevor, Simon climbed Ivy Sepulchre, Cenotaph Corner Direct Finish.

Bill, Ann, Dave R (guest) climbed Petite Fleur, Rib and Slab, Short Tree Chimney.

Kate and Lyn on Y Garn

Phil and Sheila synoptic charts on the Carnedds.

Fred and Stuart Brooks (Fred's oppo from Australia, Bruce) went up Crib Goch via the North Ridge.

Geoff and Bill (guest) climbed Parchment Passage.

Night in P.L.H. followed by the great cream cracker eating competition.

9th Nov

People leaving for various parts of North Wales.

Ogwen

21 Nov 75

Sheila & Phil arrived with Widnes party.

Cold clear night, beautiful - P.L.H.

22/12/75

Arrived on Friday night via Caernarfon to meet Phil and Sheila's party.

Saturday. Mark and Simon set off for Carreg Wastad, arrived at cliff at 9.30 (full of porridge). The sight of Erosion Groove drew us on despite the freezing conditions. The leader was shocked to find the absence of the peg at 40ft but in true Merseyside spirit he battled on to arrive at the top in one piece, panting and minus porridge. Then we retired to sacks for dinner (pork pie and orange). In a further fit of madness we decided to climb Lion. This proved to be the most eventful climb of the day, GROWL! Mark led off to the cracked blocks at 40ft consequently belaying himself to the largest block. Simon came up to the blocks and proceeded to tip the belay block off the face with me attached. The block was precariously balanced on the edge with Mark furiously trying to undo the belay and Simon frantically groping for holds on a blank wall. Both then retired to the opposite end of the ledge gasping and staring blankly into space. (Visiting parties should beware of this block because it is still in place - JUST). Simon led the crux via the harder way (very strenuous) and was still in a state of nervous exhaustion when Mark arrived at the belay ("The hardest move I have ever made in my life" quote Simon).

Back to the hut for dinner (sirloin steak, sausage, potatoes and peas). Returned to P.L.H. for a well earned drink.

22nd Nov

Up at 7.15!!! Sheila, Phil and party on the Nantle Ridge. A fine day, though rather misty over 1500 feet. back to hut where Simon & Mark were wandering around still belayed to a block which they stole from Lion!!

23 Nov

10.35am Moment of decision, will nobody go climbing? A most disappointing morning having wasted so much time, particularly considering the terrific weather. N Jones, J Peake arrived out last night.

23rd Nov
Up early again despite the previous night's festivities - John Peake "Must go climbing (force 9 gale plus rain lashing down - can't see Llanberis from hut) It's better in wet weather as the rain washes the dirt from the holds". Miserable day! Party will probably walk over to Ogwen. John still looking for a second.... Nick on roof blocking leaks!!

Omar J:

"Climbing in wet conditions is great - good practice for Scottish winters...."

All I can say is that I am glad Capel has gone wet !!

PS.

Appears nobody will climb after all J.P.

Wanted: Anti freeze for Phil's gaiters.

STOP PRESS

11.35am Moment of decision, will nobody go climbing? A most disappointing morning having wasted so much time, particularly considering the terrific weather. J.P.

STOP PRESS

11.34am No decision as yet.

28th Nov 75

Arrived Friday night. Party consists of Simon, Trev, Mark, Pete, Dave J, Sheila, John.

29 Nov 75

Set off in various directions, Mark, Simon, Trev & John to Grochan, Pete and Dave R to Clogwyn y Person and Dave J and Sheila S to Glyder Fawr via a small unknown detour. Simon & Mark spent approx 2hrs trying to overcome the first pitch of Ochre Groove which now has no peg. After taking it in turn to jump off from 14 feet into mud - gave up and settled for Phantom Rib (wet!).

John and Trev did Brant and decided to do Phantom Rib as well. This proved easier said than done! Omar J. taking a small fall on the rid, he was held by a sling and one small ripple in the rock. Cries of "but there arn't any holds! could be heard echoing round the Pass. A swift retreat was executed but in true style the rope became jammed. The cavalry arrived in the nick of time and with three bodies hanging on the rope managed to free it - all retired to the hut for a massive meal and a well earned rest.

(John was heard wandering off into the mist mumbling excuse 35b).

6th Dec 1975

Sheila's Party arrived and were later joined by Dave, Barb, and David's sister Cath (via Cobdens)

Saturday dawned a strange misty day and we ventured towards Moel Siabod to introduce a couple of "freshers" to the mountains. After much struggling and thrashing about and half and hour's wait for a bus on the ridge we reached the summit picking up a ladies Ingersol watch on the way. The views on the summit of Snowdon in a sea of cloud were some of the best even the oldies (Phil that is) never mind the freshers had ever seen. We actually sunbathed on the summit in our shirt sleeves for 3/4 hr. You can believe this one folks (Bill Suth wasn't with us!!). We scrambled down the ridge to the endless fun of watching one young lady who attempted to arseade all the way down to Cobden's.

7th Dec 1975

Sunday saw a slightly reduced party make its was up to Telegraph Col via the haunted house and contour round onto the Snowdon Ranger track and eventually to a very cold, wet, miserable summit, GREAT!! Back for showers, cheese on toast and endless cups of tea via the railway track. See you all soon, if not, have a happy Christmas from

Dave, Barb, Cath, Phil, Sheila, Lee, Lin, Heather, Wendy (the arseader), Jane, Anne, Ian, John, Judith (one eye)

P.S. Dave discovered what a Brocken Spectre is, consult him for details.

17th December

Hello again! Phil and his fellow loonies from Edge Hill are back....to back.... whatever turns you on! (Don't knock it 'til you've tried it!!). After last night (Tuesday) we arrived mid afternoon knackered from our end of term party which finished around 3.30!! Made a meal and then descended without aid to the Padarn Lake for a few bevvies.

18 December

Because of our incredible state of tiredness (that's our excuse) we slept in 'til 10 and ate breakfast. Phil bust his tooth on the bacon and John bust his zip on the rind!! Took a pleasant lunch at the Vaynol and then round to Ogwen and over the Kitchen returning in the dark....weather warm, misty and fun!! Ate spaghetti Bolognese and did yet another (late) descent to P.L.H. with John (the shepherd).

20th December

Simon and Mark, Alan, Lew, and Mary - all to Moelwyns.

Not a bad day but short.

23rd December

Alan & Marg arrived late Sunday night to find Len and Mary about to bivvy outside the hut as they could not get in. Managed pint in Erw Fair - Sunday guests!!

29th December

After shopping in Llanberis for food, Len, Mary, Alan & Marg left for Snowdon via Crib Goch at 11.15am Quite windy and misty on the tops but made quite a reasonable pace along the ridge. Marg excelled on only second mountain summits in recent years (those keep fit lessons must be working). Descent via P.Y.G. track as causeway flooded.

Mark and Simon arrived. P.L.H. for beverage.

Star Date 30th December

The Tardis has landed!

(Well that's what the water tank sounds like).

Late start (what else) and wind extremely severe so Mark, Simon, Alan & Marg went to Tremadoc. Here they hit an all time low (our biorhythms were wrong - all of us were on three lows at the same time - excuse 47c). After an abortive attempt on Oakover we retreated after an hour on discovering at the foot of the climb that some kind gent had carved the invaluable information "holds gone - now HVS". Kind gent please in future make information clearer so we see it earlier. Rather than change our tree belay decided on Knell for a Jackdaw where we climbed the "awkward layback" the "interesting crack" and other delights!!! Ugh!! Len & Mary braved the Pass weather and climbed Flying Buttress.

31st December

Pouring down with rain, roof in kitchen leaking, roof in women's toilets leaking and roof above side door. The morning was spent in torrential rain with Simon trying to alleviate the leaks in the roof and Mark, Alan and Margaret collecting the vast amount of rubbish that had been left around the hut - empty beer cans and lemonade bottles, jagged tins and broken glass all of which are extremely dangerous to the farm animals.