An excellent weekend. Weather near perfect. On Friday spent day on Pinnacles and at Ogwen. Saturday we went to Cwm Cywarch (Arrans) where Dennis & Bill ascended Arran Fawddwy in brilliant sunshine, returned via Bwlch y Groes, a wonderful day. Very few people about in the Arran district.

1/1/74

Exodus - most of the august collection of bodies departed in the morning. D Salter remained to endure the rigours of Caer Fran. Went for a walk over Moel Eilio to get warm. Rather windy, cloudy with a few patches of blue sky.

(Couldn't see Kahoutek's Comet again).

2/1/74

Weather excellent - blue skys, sunshine (in between sunrise and sunset, that is), light breeze. Drove round to Nant Gwynant and walked up Watkin Track. Light covering of old snow persists above 2500ft.

A few patches of high cloud formed to the west around sunset, not much, but just enough to prevent one from seeing whether Kahoutek's Comet was visible - again.

(Dear Patrick Moore, About this comet....)

27/1/74

ANNUAL DINNER

Excellent conditions: severe rain, wind and cold. Braving these elements we proceeded to obtain peace and tranquillity in the haven of our Welsh mountains. Returned to Caer Fran perturbed after our illusions had been thwarted. Mad dogs (sheep) and Englishmen go out in the pouring rain. John Peake, Mark Diggins, G Moore.

2 Feb 74

RAF Scampton Party

A sign of the times - we had intended arriving last night but as we ran out of petrol just past Plas-y-Brenin, we had a cold, uncomfortable night in a lay-by. We finally made it here - bogging the van down in the process!! A very wet and windy day so we went over to the Milestone Buttress - we're mad! Today the weather was a little better so up to Dinas Mot we went. Two minor epics resulted. A very wet thrutch up the Western Gully and loosing the route on Dolerite Dump. Thanks very much Wales - for nothing!!

23/2/74

Bill Sutherland's Meet

After having our own private work meet and fitting a new pane in the toilet block. Dave Graham, George Bowden, Roger and Judith Clegg went down to Tremadoc.

W.O.B. George & Dave

Kestrel Cracks } Roger and Bill

Oakover }

Returned for a feed and then a pint.

24/2/74

Another good day. Weather great. Bill and George went for a wander and did Parsley Fern Gully. Snow very hard, George very knackered. Roger and Dave went to Tremadoc to look at Olympic Slab and did it and Grim Wall.

9/3/74

We feel it should be recorded that one of our second generation members completed his first gigantic effort today - to the sweety shop in Llanberis and back up the path via the Youth Hostel, of course saying 'hello' to every cow, sheep and gate on the way. Welcome to the club David Maxwell Jones, age 2 years!

17th March 1974

Brooklands School Mountaineering Club.

Four members of this elite club visited Caer Fran for a weekend excellent climbing in adverse conditions. Various routes on Tryfan were ascended.

Thanks to M.M.C. for use of Caer Fran.

T Cobbold. Club President.
M Venables.
Timothy Hill-Baldwin.
S York. Vice President.

23/24 Mar 74

RAF Scampton Party

Arrived by 8.30pm on Friday - bit better than last effort in February! Saturday dawned windy but dry. Motored round to Ogwen then footed it up to the Heather Terrace. One party did Pinnacle Rib, the other Overlapping Rib Route (the old Pinnacle Rib No1). Met up again on top and then set off down South Ridge and thence up Bristly Ridge.. Plenty of snow around on the Glyders. Descended into Cwm Idwal via Cneifion Arete for a welcome cuppa at Mervyn's (still Mervyn's?). A great day out.

Packing up in the hut tomorrow morning with aim of climbing in the Pass (odd individuals muttering something about Crackstone Rib). Then sadly straight back to the plains of the East. Thanks very much for the use of the hut. We never fail to be impressed.

30th March 74

J.R.Clegg } The Corner, Longland's Route - Cloggy
M.Lacey }

Judith Clegg went along for the walk.

12th April 74

Bill Sutherland and George Bowden went looking for new crags. Yes, we found one. No we are not telling where it is - just in case you finish the route we started. Watch this space for news of a first ascent or ascents.

13 April 74

Bill and George to Cloggy in good weather. No one there when we arrived. Soon discovered why, believe it or not ICE on some of the routes due to very cold wind. Geared up and started Longland's as we could not continue with frozen fingers we came back to the Pass and nipped up Petite Fleur on Craig Dhu.

14th April 74

Another good day.

Dave Salter and George Hodgins went for a trog up Moel Hebog.

Bill and George.

Via Gellia - on Craig y Gellia - recommended and Hazel Groove on the Grochan.

15th April 1974

in good weather and sore feet.

George and Lesley festered - well that's their excuse.

20.4.74

Arrived late (2.30) having broken a rear spring en route. Nonetheless managed to get in 3 routes:

Wrinkle, Parchment Passage and a gallop up Flying Buttress.

21.4.74

Today we have good intentions -

Gambit climb - over Snowdon and down Y Gribin ridge then up Rocker Route (we shall see).

Fred Smith and Geoff Turner.

Yes they did it?!!

excellent - left the Pass at 11.30 arrived summit of Lliwedd at 8pm P.Y.P at 8.55 FAS.

21/4/74

Out for the day.

failed to do Little Sepulchre but finished up Cracked Wall - a good route.

26.4.74

Bill, Dave & John were first to arrive closely followed by Martin and two guests 'Spud' & Richie and later the party was completed by the arrival of Geoff.

On the morning of Saturday we were aroused by the persistent hammering on the door of Mr & Mrs Bowden who promptly hurried us through our breakfasts for an assault on various crags in the Pass.

Passes of the day: George and Martin completing Ivy Sepulchre and Cenotaph Corner (direct finish), Geoff & John Bluebell Cracks, John doing his first leading, and Spiral Stairs.

Fails of the day Bill and Dave after having completed two magnificent pitches of Intruder, Bill, while taking a difficult corner with bulge at the start of the third pitch decided to do a nut-stripping move which resulted in a high tariff double twist with half pike dive into a pile of bushes. Needless to say we rounded this pitch and continued above the corner to the final slab pitch. However rain at this point deterred us from venturing any further onto the greasy slab, (or any further into the high diving stakes). And so we retired gracefully to live and try another day "long live Bill and Intruder".

Sunday

After an exceptionally large breakfast, we decided to look at the rain spots on the window, that Tremadoc was the order of the day so off we set, and off we go. See you all soon we hope!!!

Dave Graham

11th May

11th May

Jim's Meet

12th May

The Fang - J.R.C, M.L.

19th May

Paddington arrived with a vengeance, the coach demolishing the entire dry stone wall en route. 'The Hill' killed most of the southerners, at 12.30 the road was strewn with bodies in varying stages of exhaustion crawling hopefully upwards. 20th

The next morning saw fourteen people grinding and hacking there way through rock hard toast trying to gain strength for the days ahead, some hopes. The coach took half of the day to reverse the hill, the other half was spent walking the lake surrounds. (wow!!)

21st

Georgina 'bled all over' and finally 'cried herself to death' when we finally found the moving mountain (Welsh peasants had moved it). A large meal and heavy pudding proved too much and people fell into bed.

The week passed by with only one pupil missing and he was a nuisance anyway. After the first horrified exclamations of bugs and damp and mold (sic) and lack of luxuries they finally decided they wanted to stay and groans were heard when Friday dawned. No serious climbing was done but one young man shook himself off Oberon and another took a swim in the sea.

Paddington will return!!!

Paddington, please write spelling mistakes out correctly.

25.5.74

Arrived late - 4.00pm Bett decided to read so John and I trotted over Moel Eilio to Telegraph Col and thence to C.F. Time 2hrs 7mins - Scotland obviously still having an effect. Martin (Lacey) got up at 6 by mistake and found himself at Cloggy before eleven -joined two bods and led them up Piggot's. Weather perfect - now off to Vic!!!

26.5.74

Weather not looking too good: Martin and John (Peake) went to the 'Mot' where Martin coaxed his companions up 'Direct' and 'Diagonal'.

Roger (Barron) Bett and Fred, being more realistic, walked to Parson's Nose upon which Roger achieved his first lead, thence to the summit in bright sunshine with dramatic low level cloud scenery to join the 33,943 others in the tea queue. A gentle stroll to Cyrn Las ridge in cloud and descent (which turned out to be on the wrong ridge) back into Cwm Glas. A very pleasant day.

27.5.74

Day dull and threatening. John and Fred did Wrinkle then joined Roger and Bett for an entertaining scramble up the rocks of Esgair Felen via Tweedledee to the top. R & J went to summit of Glyder Fawr which F & B traversed, on compass bearings via very rough ground to the P.Y.P. cafe. V pleasant.

28.5.74.

Rain!! Wind!! R & J felt foolish and traversed Moel Eilio to Telegraph Col - got back as rain stopped. F & B did a few jobs about the hut - tending the track etc. before cleaning up to depart. A nice break.

21st June

RAF Lindholme party set off to leave Caer Fran in glorious weather, however, the few days here have allowed Snowdon summit to be visited via Western Terrace on Cloggy by a small party; the Glyders & Tryfan to be traversed via Devil's Kitchen & the rake to right on Clog-Y-Geifr. Even Yr Eilio were well under cloud on Thursday but Friday provided a superb day for Crib Goch N Ridge to Yr Wyddfa descending variously via Cwm Las ridge or Moel Cynghorion ridge. This delectable day was rounded off by a couple of parties attacking the rock with Wrinkle and Spiral Stairs falling. Many thanks to M.M.C. for the use of Caer Fran for these pleasant days.

29/6/74

30/6/74

Cenotaph Corner, 2 VS's near Betws Y Coed J.R.C. J.Loxham

29.6.74

Wayfarer's Weekend (unofficial)

30.6.74

Thanks to Merseyside MC for their hut.

27/7/74

Tremadoc

28/7/74

Tensor, Tantalus, Mensor (Craig-y-Castell) MWL, JRC

4/8/74

Family Meet [Dave Clarke]

Attendances

Dave and Freda Clarke and 7 month old John
Ken Jones (guest)
Geoff Turner & Wife with two children
John Peake
Mark Diggins

On Saturday Mark and John arrived in hut at 9.00 after starting from Liverpool at 8am hitching most of the way arriving at the Pass around 5pm, doing Spiral Stairs. Traffic was dense.

Ken, Dave and Freda walked up Snowdon

Geoff and family - conquered Penrhyn Castle.

On Sunday the 4th, Ken walked back to Llanberis from Llyn Idwal.

Dave, Geoff and family walked up Cwm Idwal and never saw each other due to the multitudes wearing high heeled shoes and Marks & Spencer pumps.

John and Mark climbed Crackstone Rib and Shadow Wall on Carreg Wastad.

16.8.74

17/8/74

24/8/74

Carlisle M.C. Welsh Meet

Routes done included Cemetery Gates, Erosion Groove Direct, Brant Direct, Phantom Rib, Ribstone Crack, Skylon, Old Holborn, Nea, Hazel Groove.

13 members attending, not all staying @ Caer Fran.

25/8/74

Routes done included, Central Park, Times Square, Simulator, Black Spot, Oxo.

7/9/74

The weather was somewhat inclement - heavy, prolonged rain showers and strong, gusty winds.

Geoff Turner and Alan Brown visited The Devil's Kitchen and were washed out. Dave Salter went for a walk round the back and having done this walked round the front. With the cunning born of long experience he then went to Llanberis, bought some bread, and returned.

8/9/74

The weather was still rather inclement but shafts of sunlight were observed shining through the writhing cumulus. Heartened by this sight Geoff & Alan depart with great expectations of a day on Tryfan, and were not seen again. Dave set off for Nant Peris and then ascended Elidir Fawr (having reached Nant Peris) in rather mixed weather - sunshine, wind, short showers. Proceeding to Y Garn the sunshine disappeared and the showers and wind increased. During the descent to Nant Peris a fellow sufferer remarked that the sheep looked remarkably clean. Another fellow sufferer remarked that he was not Bl--dy surprised. Heartened by this cheerful badinage, we continued our sodden descent, and reaching the road went our own sepa rate ways, greeting the passing limousines with merry quips and uplifting gestures 'Tis said that they are drilling a hole through Elidir Fawr - what a good idea!

5/10/74

Work Meet - Fred Smith.

Those attending - Fred, Geoff Turner, Alan Brown, Pete Smith, Mark Diggins and John Peake.

John and Alan arrived Saturday afternoon after travelling by bus. Both with ailments, they managed a walk up Cloggy, very impressed with the diff, and the first time they had visited it. Arriving back tired and Alan's feet blistered (new RP's) they retired to bed at 9pm! (Sat night!) At 10pm they were awakened from their coma by footsteps on the stairs - Fred arriving. Drowsing a little later more noise - Geoff arriving. Still sleeping, they finally arose when Pete and Mark arrived. They all retired again 1.00am.

The relatively small number allowed more individual concentration upon the jobs in hand: Pete and Geoff made a fine job of fitting the shower cubicles, Fred plastering the ladies' shower, John, Alan and Mark painting and ??? and various other jobs. Leaving at about 6, Fred stayed back to finish cleaning operations.

John Peake

11/10/74

Arrived about 10pm via the Padarn, Dave's car ascending without difficulty, loaded to the extreme. Alan, catering, provided morning tea the next day. Out of hut by 10.25am, walking up to Cloggy. Mark and John determined to complete their first route on this cliff arrived at the foot of Great Slab, an ancient guide book and photographs in hand. Meanwhile Alan and David scrambled up the Western Terrace which was pleasantly exposed (still is) and thence eastward on to the summit of Snowdon. Their first ascent. Cloggy was rather damp (two-three other people there). Mark managed to traverse ??? by tension after 2hrs (!) and ascended the first pitch. A further 2hrs passed while John attempted the crux. Shortage of krabs required a direct attempt using aid of an old peg and chock. After the chock decided to fall out, they decided to abandon the attempt (4.30pm) not wishing to push their luck on the 40ft corner. Mark in true form managed a perfect descent retrieving fairly new gear on the way down. The last few feet proved difficult, John lowering his leader on a chock left in a cave. Both looking forward to the next attack.

David and Alan successfully gained summit in arctic conditions - mist, snow and freezing breeze to descend at 5.25 to prepare an evening meal. At 5.30pm (never in the annals of club history) two young nubile females entered upon Caer Fran. To Alan's immense pleasure neither had provisions and thereupon he made a concerted effort to accommodate their needs . The evening was further pleasantly spent in the Padarn.

Alan made a synthetic breakfast on the Sunday and we were out by 11.00am. David thereupon managed to accommodate 6 people in his Viva (!) and safely ascended the road to deposit his load on Little Tryfan (via Capel). Conditions were wet but the climbing enjoyable, Alan, David, Ann and Sheila forced a route, Alan practising his leading. Sheila attempted an abseil in rather awkward conditions, hands numb, wet and feet greasy. A Royal Greenjacket provided encouragement. Ann and Sheila departed at 2.30pm to hitch to L'pool (to the dismay of male members). The other 4 finished the day with evening meal at the hut, Dave providing a lift back home. A tremendous weekend!!

John Peake, David Jenkins, Mark Diggins, Alan Brown, Ann and Sheila Sanderson.

John Peake

18.10.74

Glen's "Fester" Meet

The meet grew as the weekend progressed - 9 Friday evening : 14 Saturday p.m. : 16 Saturday night.

The weather was kind to the festerers - unkind to the climbers. John achieved a climber's ultimate - FAILED Great Slab last weekend - FAILED Flying Buttress this weekend; but then he's a student now!!

Bett and Fred ascended the Craig Llechog Ridge, Glen, Marge, Raymond, Lewis, Denny found the causeway submerged so were stopped in their ambitions. John, Alan and Dave gave up F.B. (see above) then magnificently achieved a double on Nebs Crawl.

The meet was highly successful in its way - the first up crawling from his pit AFTER 9.00 - bed at 1.30am This is the stuff GREAT FESTERERS ARE MADE FROM.

Sunday. Weather again wet and very uncertain - to the delight of the G.F's. Much poring over guide books - brewing that extra pot of tea - sorting out the accounts (Glen having forgotten his new toy - an ELECTRONIC CALCULATOR). Whatever happens is in the lap of the Gods!!

Fred Smith

The "lap of the Gods" turned out to be somewhat uncomfortable, cold and uncertain. The party went to Cwm Silyn where I climbed (?) the Ordinary - record time - 4 plus hours. The excuses included:-

a) John kept losing the route.
b) Lewis only had one boot (and one desert 'welly')
c) They only had two ropes
d) Geoff wouldn't be pulled up
e) It was wet, cold and windy
f) It was too hot
g) The route was too hard (Diff!!)
h) The women wouldn't

Meanwhile the remainder trogged along the ridge to Rhyd Ddu where it was discovered that Geoff's car was there but he wasn't. The other cars were at Cwm Silyn but we weren't. An initiative on Fred's part discovered a local who OFFERED to drive us to Cwm Silyn - fool! being a local he didn't know where it was. By the time we returned the climbers (?) had arrived, having traversed in 1/3rd of the time taken to climb the "diff".

A great meet - much humour, food, beer, frustration, wet clothing, hanging about and rain.

FAS

8-10/11/74

Geoff Turner's Meet

Weather normal!!! Saturday: Ogwen for a change. Bill, Fred, Mark soloed up Cneifion Arete followed by Geoff and Ann (roped) and John and Alan (also roped). Strong wind and rain etc. Then up ridge and Glyders to Bwlch Tryfan whence to tea shop.

Philip, Sheila, Lew and Denny managed (somewhat involuntarily) a version of Senior's Climb on the Gribin Facet. Philip managed a dip in the river much to the disgust of his new boots.

Other notable events: Alan Brown suffered a dilemma - couldn't decide whether to lavish his affections on his new boots or new sleeping bag.

Sunday (Intentions)

Rain - still normal!!! Bill, John, Mark and John P heading for Tremadoc. Remainder to Cwm Glas, hopefully to climb (a) P.N.Direct , (b) Vestry Variant, (c) Gambit - all, some or a variety.

The Truth

Bill, John a very wet Borchgrevinck I think that's how you spell it. John and Mark practised abseiling down Christmas Curry.

Some of the team nearly missed tea at Pen y Pass.

23/11/74

George Bowden's Meet

An epic journey by Bill S Party and a new write-off on a white Marina. Ask about the night they lost the 'O'.

Sat - Lew, Denny, Alan M, Alan B, John Peake, Dave, Graham, John McB went on a stagger up Mac's Track in Ogwen, up Carnedd Llewelyn (Lew spelt the last two words) and blundered their way down very stony ground from 3185 to 971 which ever way you feel. A good but damp day. Quite a bit of snow about. The meet leader and his good lady went to the grotto in Caernarfon and pulled Father Christmas' beard off, at least that's their excuse. An excellent meal preceded our visit to the Vic and amusement back at the hut consisted of jokes by all and sundry and demonstrations of ballet dancing by John Peake on the new board and roller.

30-11-74

We, Alan and me, arrived after a few bevvies in the Pen y Gwryd and were flagged down by a consturbuel (sic) and asked if we would stay with our lights full on as a rescue helicopter was due to fly down the Pass bearing with it a victim of a nasty accident on his way to hospital.

Sunday: Rose at the crack of dawn, saw the weather was normal (ie P...ing down) so we went back to bed. Rose again at the crack of mid-day (actually it was more like 12.30) we had a vast, if somewhat greasy, breakfast then cleared off in search of Joe Brown's shop and Llyn Idwal.

6.12 to 8.12

Lew Jones' Meet

And what a meet that all but eight missed. Friday night saw six of us climbing into Cobden's Bar via the waterfall whilst the other 3 went to Victoria. Saturday - one dead eight to go - never even tasted Denny's cooking, lucky Ann. Eight little niggers go to Ogwen, heading for Devil's Kitchen, resting at Idwal en route to view, open mouthed, the climbing maestros at play. At the Kitchen the ways parted - one to traverse, two to stay put and five to head into the dark, dank nasty gully headed by Geoff Turner - the only dry day for weeks and we walk into a waterfall. First pitch sorted the men from the boys - Denny used artificial aid - Lew's head, Lew used artificial aid - the rope and Phil went back. Four little niggers remain. Geoff was then forced to lead with John as second and two more niggers fall back. Returning to car in the dark for the benefit of John's head torch.

Good evening at pub produced our usual drunken behaviour with the rubber ring - a new method has been devised - beware future meet members your doom is nigh especially if Nick, John, Lew or Phil are about.

8.12.74

Well, well, Sunday was, as usual, marked by a late start owing to the arrival, just as we were about to depart, of Bill and Alan. This bought an even later start to the day (games, tea, breakfast etc!!!) Eventually the party decided on Cnicht as a possible route for the day. So with various means of transport and with various interchanges en route the group moved on... Picked up a semi blind guide dog on the way (in keeping with the condition of the party after the previous night in the Vic ie Joe Brown (shopkeeper) Whillans and Ron James et alia) and eventually up to the ruined cottage. Nick became prominent in the party (ie new gaiters demanded at least one excursion into a bog) and then he starred again by saving Phil's life (ie smothering him as he fell down the grassy slope). Cnicht became less important as it disappeared even further into the mist.... with horizon withdrawn the group decided on an excursion around Llyn Yr Adar. This achieved, the descent became immanent... noted by Geoff and John's attraction for waterfalls... others preferring a more leisurely route. The "others" descent was noted by the sense of the dog and the elastic going in Kate's kecks, well, well, red face etc...

All together again at the bottom we went off, Lew and Kate nicked holly and others changed clothes after a sodden wet day. Off we set for home, Geoff and Nick BOTH clouting their offside front wings on walls of varying qualities.

As an independent observer the meet was yet another classic in the Jones mould... especially Denny's home made bread (note the topicality) and the famous stew which tends to reduce Guiness capacity.

P.S. A certain cafe owner in Betws y Coed would like to know how you make a profit out of one pot of tea (10p) and four jugs of water?!!!!

Fri 13th to Sun 15th

Phil and Sheila Scratton: Widnes Junior College Meet

Party: 8 leaders / 8 students.

Arrived early Friday evening complete with burst tyre and retired to the chippy and P.L.H. for refreshment.

Saturday:

3 leaders and 4 students went to Moel Siabod and the same went to Tremadoc.

Moel Siabod:

Phil and Sheila etc set off 1.30 from the Quarry track went up via quarry/lake and for ridge. Fair amount of snow and lunched at 1.30; down via the bog (muddy) to Pen y Gwryd hotel at 2.50 just in time for (a drink) then on via a cadged lift to Pen y Pass Cafe. Several coffees later the group was picked up by the Tremadoc climbers(?) and returned to hut.... with yet another burst tyre....

Tremadoc:

Started from Tremadoc at about 1.00pm (after taking burst tyre no 1 in to be fixed). Three teams, two teams of two, and one team of three. Two routes, Christmas Curry and Oberon. Donna (the only girl with enough guts to come), myself (Mike) and one of the leaders (John G) attempted to climb Oberon. The start was a slab, and after being coaxed up by helpful onlookers we went on to climb, as in Donna's case, feet first the rest of the way up. Of the other two groups Colin was said to have done exceptionally well, and managed to abseil down. On the other hand Big John caused a few laughs, he fell down six times in all, one time managing to boot Kathy with his size 12s!!! We, remarkably, all met up again in the cafe at Tremadoc, and the four students (John, Colin, Donna and myself, Mike) would all like to thank the expert tuition and patience of the three leaders (John G, Kathy, John B).

Saturday Night 14th Dec.

In terms of the recent games introduced to the club, Mike Rees 6th form student from Widnes and "guest" of M.M.C. separated the men from the boys. He tried his luck on the plank and iron ring "game" and performed the following feats:

1. Touched floor 99 times with hand without coming off
2. Threaded paper strip through iron ring without coming off.
3. Took off and put on pullover without coming off.
4. Removed sock and replaced sock
5. Undid boot straps and removed boot from another member without coming off.

Yes.... he is a P.A.... sheer luxury!!!

PS Thanks for the hut usage!!

27/12/74

28/12/74

Poor Man's Peuterey, Strangeways and Scratch.

29/12/74