January 1972
1st Jan 1972
The New Year welcoming party consisted of -
Fair Dos (Keith Bowen)
James 'The Wash' Kelly
Mouse Fieldhouse (Avante Garde Bricklayer)
Peter and the Wolf (Hod carrier to above)
Fatty Di
Black Nick
Lew 'Cassius' Jones
Norman the Pawman
and Denny 'for a penny' Bissley
Sat
Denny, Lew, Jim, Norman and Pete obtained their 'first footage' of the year on the appropriate 'Hogmanay Hangover' at Tremadoc. We managed to ascend this fearsome climb in the record slow time of five hours mainly due to our alchoholically befuddled brains. Meanwhile Di and Spouse toured the principality in their limousine.
Sun
After a late rising Norman, Jim and Pete staggered off towards Betws to climb on Giants Head. 'Jungle Jim the Wash' led us magnificently up the steaming tropical rainforest slopes in search of a one-eyed giant. (Clue to route name) We eventually located the route with the aid of a friendly robin. The climb gave us three fine pitches and was well worth the effort of negotiating the clinging rainforest. Norman and Pete attempted a further route but gave up due to bad light (how's that for an excuse?!!).
Guido Pierre
Meanwhile the real mountaineers (Lew, Nick, Denny, Kip, John) staggered drunkenly over Moel Cynghorion. Di sat in the hut and knitted for her offspring.
14th 1st 72
Just for a change the glorious weather we have been having took a turn for the worst as soon as we reached Caer Fran doorway. In short it 'rained' and true to the hard British climber image we braved the gusts (gale force 18) and tramped regardless of our safety down to Wendy's; there to steam amongst more of our kind in the number one cafe of the area. So the weekend would not turn out as so many other winter weekends we diced with death by going 6 in a tiny car to Bangor, there to dance with the elite freaks at the college. At least we didn't drain the Padarn dry as per usual!
Tomorrow will no doubt be the same as today, 'wet' so in future our slings will be replaced by bathing suits and ropes by flippers, anything's better than nothing.
P.S. Good luck Freda with the crosswords, and Dave with his pipes. Never let it be said that members of M.M.C. are inactive there's always loads to do.
Nondyploom - Proops Brown
P.P.S. A historic event, an entry in the book without the name of 'Fred Smith' being slandered.
Signed a well wisher LIN
February 1972
6-2-72
Arrived at Caer Fran at 8.00 on Saturday evening weak with exhaustion having walked up from Llanberis and dying of thirst. In our youthful enthusiasm we plunged down the switches for power and light, nipped back down the track to turn the tap on in the black (and muddy) Hole of Calcutta (someone has used that before), dashing expectantly back to the hut, cupping our eager hands beneath the tap, turned it - but alack, alas and woe was us - you've guessed it no water.
Then discovery, a piece of paper with a map and cryptic message to find gold er water. Taking out map and compass but no torch (we'd forgotten it - well you can't think of everything can you) we counted ten steps East, 3 West, then hit our faces on the side of the Barn. Ha Ha it's in there we cried - in we rushed but in the dark with only a few matches the vital tap evaded us. Two hours later we decided to turn off the tap on the track and get rid of our thirst in the Padarn (pub).
Next morning we explored found the tap, turned on the main tap, turned off the dripping tap and ran back tongue hanging out screaming 'Eureka' or words to that effect. Eureka it probably was but certainly not water.
Having cooked meal already we found difficulty in washing up: but Brains Of Britain? we will find the answer. Packing our sacks we made our way down to the stronghold of the west - Wendy's and supped hot glorious tea to get rid of the terrible dehydration our dilemma had caused.
Intrepid Explorers 1972.
Jim Hawkins & Capt. Scott
Don't miss the exciting sequel to this story in next weeks 'Womans Own'.
19.2.72
Dave Clarke's Meet
Saturday
Dry but cloudy. Arrived 2a.m. having driven through a snowstorm. 7 members and guests. Collected Calor Gas to ensure cooking in event of power cut then took to hills via Cwm Glas and North Ridge of Crib Goch. Magnificent snow conditions - no wind - few nig-nogs. Traversed main ridge and Crib Y Ddysgl descending via Miner's Track. Snow as near perfect as possible.
Sunday
One party of six, Dave, Freda, Kathy, Roger, Steve and Fred flogged up Elidir Fawr in dense cloud - snow on summit excellent.
Pete and Neville climbed Ladies Gully and emerged into sunshine with the cloud below, came back via Crib y Ddysgl. An excellent meet - thanks to Dave and Freda.
March 1972
12.3.72
Fred's Work Meet.
Mainly spent wall building and landscaping with some joinery in the kitchen.
13.3.72
Monday. Hard frost overnight and trying to snow midmorning - went down to Llanberis for groceries. Back to Caer Fran then bog-hopped across to Hebron station and up to Llyn Dur Arddu which was nearly completely frozen over - took a look at Cloggy then along the ridge to Foel Goch. Found a good snow slope and practised step cutting and some crampon techniques.
14.3.72
Weather mild, hazy sun; round to the old quarry at Bwlch y Groes. Contoured around Moel Eilio above Betws Garmon and Salem and back to summit of Eilio.
15.3.72
Domestic duties a.m. - cleaned all rooms. Spent 1 hour trying to find the wretched tap that lies a whole TWO YARDS beyond the stream. Went for walk on Foel Goch, fog reduced visibility down to 20 yards, having no compass we came back via Llyn Dwythwch.
16.3.72
A warm clear sunny day. Across to Hebron Station, up the Llanberis Path (took photograph of Snowdon railway engine doing a trial run) - from Clogwyn station to the trig point on Crib y Ddysgl a very fine snow slope, kick stepped up. Laurie borrowed my crampons and made good progress - female party on the zig-zags getting a bit gripped - reassured by Plas y Brenin No.1 man who acted as scout to top of ridge - passed a party of school children on summit of Snowdon - went across and took a look down the top of Cloggy - then went down the Snowdon Ranger track and back down Foel Gron to Caer Fran. Thunder and lightning storm in the evening.
Gordon Matheson and Laurie Nelson.
18.3.72
John Baker's Meet.
Saturday. Cloud building up over Snowdon - Cloggy out of condition (Providence?) Went to Gogarth - did Britomartis in glorious sunshine.
(A. Burgess, R Hayward, K Hatfield)
19.3.72
Another fine day - off to the Grooves on Cyrn Las - we hope!
(It turned out to be Great Buttress actually).
April 1972
April 1st - 3rd 1972
Peter Brook, John Barker, John Swift, Noel Helliwell.
Arrived Saturday night.
Gogarth Sunday - Central Park, Rat Race.
Tremadoc Monday - Vector.
Tuesday - Tensor.
Noticed sinks block up easily in men's lavatory!!
April 27th 1972.
Fred Smith, Roger Barron.
2nd Parchment Passage, descended Pharaoh's Passage.
April 25th 1972.
Roger Barron.
Idwal Skyline - North Ridge Tryfan, Bristly Ridge, The Glyders, Y Garn descended by North East Ridge.
May 1972
28th to 30th May 1972 (Whit)
Attendees: Pete and Lyn Smith, Collette Tomlinson, Eileen Gardner, John Barker, Pete Brook.
'Tis rumoured John and Pete did a pretty decent walk round Snowdon Horseshoe (in fact incredible in view of the weather - misty and raining and a helluva wind blowing). As for us, we went for a walk round Beddgelert up some mountain which I can't remember the name of - they all sound the same to me! In fact we wouldn't even have gone up the mountain except it had a false looking height - we thought it was about 100 ft! Surprised there weren't more out this weekend. The pubs were chocker last night.
E.G.
June 1972
11th June
Came by accident and left next day. Awfully sorry Lin and Denny boobed again. The weather held good and the hut was used to the fullest extent.
Snoopy Features.
24 June 72
RAF Scampton Party.
Arrived late last night in high spirits as Met man said it would be fine. Awoke this morning to find low cloud base and p-ing with rain. Made our way up to Cloggy. Found it dank, dripping wet - in short horrible. Came down and had a look at the nice choo-choo trains. Weather will decide what we do tomorrow.
P.S. 2/2/74 We did nothing much!!
24 June
P.P.Davis I.F.Wilson - Pentathol.
July 1972
7th July
The bell went at 4 o'clock and three mad crazed teachers screeched out of the school gates narrowly missing the lollypop woman. A weekend without Michael Calland and Form 22, yippee!! It seems the Brains Trust were in luck a pan full of mouldy peas and cold tea a change from cabbage and egg. A change in pan is worth two in the bush. Weather kept in fine form pouring all day and being utterly hard climbers we revised our route and braved the elements to walk to the quarry. Rumour has it that Denny has shrunk in the rain, she now has five pairs of trousers and a jumper for sale! Caer Fran seems to have the world's only 'Wailing Loo', next week we'll be inundated with Jewish Scribes coming from all over for their festivals, Passovers even.
Signed Van Goch Lacey
Mini Market
Wanted
A new car with 8 ft wheels for Colin!
For Sale
A shrunken guide book of short routes.
Bargain
Second hand grave stone ideal for would be spot boulder climbers. Lin.
7.7.72
Colin Jones And Steve Kenny.
14.7.72
Nick Jones' Meet
Long Chimney : } North Buttress: Fred and Beth Smith, Peter Heron.
Skylon, Triton, Petite Fleur : Jim Kelly and Martin Lacey
21.7.72
Curving Crack: Cloggy - Martin Lacey, Colin Jones and Jim Kelly.
29.7.72
Simulator } cleared, Snowdonia cloud covered all day.
August 1972
5th Aug 72
D Salter - wandering on and around Arenig Fawr. Windy with layer of cloud touching the tops. Frequent showers around Caer Fran (rain showers!) and strong winds (meteorological type). This weather continued on Sunday.
19 Aug 1972
To give the woman a little exercise prior to the Alps we allowed Lyn, Bett and Katie to cajole us over Crib Goch, Crib y Ddysgl, Yr Wyddfa, down to Col Cloggy then (staggeringly) up Moel Cynghorion to Telegraph Col. We then walked via Spa Bould to the hut. Whilst Pete and I went to collect his car from the top of the pass these indomitable Amazons prepared our meal.
Fred Smith.
18-20 Aug 1972
Scrampton party savoured the delights of the Devil's Kitchen with a daring ascent of Devil's Staircase having been repulsed by the vast crowds on Idwal Slabs. Sunday wet as usual so a sightseeing trip to Gogarth is in order. Thanks to M.M.C. for use of Caer Fran.
A J Wright
26th August 1972
Drove down early Saturday and arrived here not so early at about 11.30. Traffic was pretty bad. We were looking forward to a hard day with several routes but after going to Llanberis to get food we were even later. It was eventually decided that Dinas Mot should receive our attentions so we set off to look at the direct route. This was reminiscent of Butlins so we moved round the corner to quieter areas. Eventually we decided on Black Spring (HVS). The starting time must have been in the region of 3.00. It was not until we started to rope up we realised that we only had one rope between three people - awkward for pitches of 150ft. However we pressed on and completed the first two pitches without particular incident. However on the 3rd pitch Charlie decided to loose himself and do a little gardening giving rise to what must be a new variation. During all this time was passing rapidly and when finally the next pitch was finished it was beginning to get dark. The last pitch was finished in twilight and the retreat after several mistakes was made in the dark arriving at the Vic pub at about 10.45. The following day was to be reserved for Cloggy but we did not surface until 11.00 so we went to Carreg Wastad. We set out on the Overlapping Wall at about 3.00 this time with two ropes. But, however, we did not get down until about 7.00. Today a determined effort will be made to get to Cloggy and do Longland's Climb.
Colin Jones, Steve Kenny, Charly Griffiths
P.S. (16.9.72) Charly and Steve did Vember instead. A mishap nearly occurred when another fella fell off and grabbed Charly's rope. Charly stayed down the rest of the week and put up a new route on Cloggy with Jeff somebody or other - Forgotten Gully Direct - details to follow.
September 1972
16 September 1972
Having had the good fortune to survive two vicious skids due to a bald tyre and the fact that Colin had broken his glasses, we arrived at the Padarn at 9.45. Here we greedily tucked away two pints and, having had our usual cup of char, retired. The following morning was a little misty and damp but we braved the conditions and aimed for Clogwyn y Grochan with the aim of doing Spectre.
After yo-yoing up and down the difficult crack like a couple of monkeys on a stick we climbed the crux and the top pitch and went in search of better things in the shape of Brant Direct. But our hopes of success were repulsed but 15 feet from terra ferma. We then did Brant Ordinary to restore our confidence and returned to the car feeling a little cheated.
Colin and Steve.
Saturday 23rd September 1972
On Friday night Fred rang me to say Dave Robinson Was unable to attend the meet because his wife was ill. I hastily gathered some food and left. On Saturday morning Bill Sutherland arrived and we went to Grochan. We decided to assault Slape. Steve led and after first deciding on what technique to use continued with competence. It was a fine route. We then went on to do Phantom Rib. Before this Steve and Bill went down to the car and while soloing Nea assisted a young lady with the crux she was delighted. Phantom Rib did not pose any great problems. After this Bill was feeling tired and I was unable to encourage Steve up Babel. I decided to solo Hazel Groove and did the first two pitches, finishing on Delphos. I then nipped over top of Babel and having got gripped a little and the crux finished I was not particularly impressed. I then soloed Nea (again) downwards; the crux is more difficult this way (a total of 1580 feet for the day)
24/9/72
Steve Kinney and Colin Jones.
30/9/72
Stone Round Table Weekend
Thirteen Stone Tablers with Colin Yorke were joined for this weekend of excess by your President Ian Wright and Hut Warden Fred Smith. An impression was made into the large supply of beer late into Friday night. A late start for the horseshoe was made on Saturday. The whole party, including portly business men sadly lacking in exercise, completed the round. Saturday night was party time in the Royal Victoria and later in Caer Fran Sunday breakfast was early, and then a party headed for Lockwood's Chimney. This was ascended by four Tablers in fine grunting, lunging swinging, style. Owing to drought conditions (of water only) the stream became an outside bathroom. Once again many thanks to M.M.C. for the use of Caer Fran. From Stone Round Table.
Colin Yorke, R V Ford
October 1972
12th Oct 72
'The big blunder week'
Owing to a mix-up of hut dates, hordes upon hordes of people descended upon Caer Fran all trying to use the pans at the same time. Needless to say the pans became congested and as the toilet had lost not only its wail but also its water life was difficult. Di found life difficult with her liver as she had had her peanuts too soon so all in all Chris' Meet met with difficulties of larger proportion than he anticipated. Once again Di offered her offal but not even Loo could eat it things were bad...
The Wayfarers, members of the other didn't cause too much trouble and so were allowed to stay!!
Climbs of various qualities were done in the Pass, Cwm Silyn and Tryfan were frequented but people had only their dinners there really.
7.10.72
Bloody Slab (Cloggy) Charlie Griffiths and Steve Kenny
8.10.72
Poor Man's Peuterey, Pear Tree Variation (with variation) and R.I.P. - Colin Jones & Bill Sutherland
25 October
Peter Brock, Stephen Beever, I Roberts.
Made film of A Dream of White Horses 'Leo Beever' filming.
20.10.72
Anthropology and Yellow Groove - Steve Kenny and Charlie Griffiths.
21.10.72
Diagonal Route (Dinas Mot) Charlie Griffiths, Colin Jones and Steve Kenny.
29.10.72
Direct Route (Dinas Mot) Colin Jones and Steve Kenny.
November 1972
4 Nov 72
The Guinness Book of Records by M.M.C.
The Largest Known Meat.
Yesterday Caer Fran was the scene of the biggest collection of layabouts that the small quiet village had ever seen. Hordes of M.M.C. members drank and bopped themselves into a stupor at Llanberis yesterday watched by a small gathering of horrified sheep. The activities in fact got so wild that the landlord Colin 'drink-a-lot' Yorke had to take a few members for a run which in fact developed into an expedition led by the intrepid Nick 'drive-a-tractor' Jones. After an action packed hour the breakaway group returned to Ye Olde Caer Fran and resumed service as soon as was possible. Sunday morning saw Fred (wake too early) Smith arousing everyone with tea (could be worse folks!) and breakfast was taken on the march to avoid congestion with the sausages. The weather was as it always is in November , the sun beating down and the clear blue sky perfect everyone was so keen to evacuate - they didn't!!!
Mini Market.
For Sale
Wanted.
Four pounds of 'keeness' must be new. Also a couple of oz's of courage would be of help,
Signed Denlin.
December 1972
9.12.72
Lew broke a cup!
30.12.72
Tryfan North Ridge. Fine day. Norm, Lin, Jim & Pete.
31.12.72
Tremadoc - Yogi and Boo-Boo, Pete & Norm
Pen yr Ole Wen - Fred, Bett, Lin, Jim.
|