February 1966
Sunday
Foul! - Little Tryfan & T.A. Then Rowan Tree & RA
1 days pay, Yippee! N & M
Tuesday 22nd
Having messed around on a new route and failed took Freda up Pharaoh's Passage in who's opinion it was more than V.S.* Nick, Pad & Jan did Parchment Passage. V. Cold
* !! Fred climbed in fine Alpine style only used 2 slings on the 1st pitch for aid.
March 1966
Sat 12th March 1966
Ray & Buff did Ridge Route on Lliwedd in cold greasy conditions. (George Medal Awarded)
April 1966
Easter Meet '66
Small select meet consisting of the Harolds, Shannon, Yorke, the Potters and Smith & Bird (Lin). Disappointing weather. Devil's Staircase and Western Buttress, Craig Lloer were most notable achievements.
Tuesday before Easter
Delphos in foul and wet conds with Shirly Smith.
Weather lousy.
Weds Spectre & Brant Direct & L. Brown.
Thurs Gates led by L.Brown
MP Jones
29th April - 1st May '66
Colin Yorke's Meet.
Meet arrived on Friday evening. An early start was made on Sat - 9.30 (left). 12 members of the meet went to Ogwen & climbed The Slabs and Glyder Fach. The remaining members climbed on Lliwedd.
Sunday dawned even lighter & better than the previous day. And an even earlier start. The climbing was undertaken at Cwm Silyn & Pontesford. Much sun was absorbed.
Climbs accomplished over the weekend:
Sat
Sun
May 1966
20 May
W Potter, Ken O'Connor Tryfan E. Face
20th - 22nd
City of Leeds College of Education.
With many thanks, Jim Grindle.
June 1966
20 June 1966
New route, "Tremadoc" (maybe) Milestone Buttress
1st Pitch 50ft As for Trianglulum till a ledge and big tree belay.
2nd Pitch 80ft Step left back into the groove, then up underneath the overhang, traverse to the rib from here move up the groove onto a steep slab, up this to a stance behind a bramble bush beneath a steep obvious 'V' groove. Peg belay.
3rd Pitch Direct up the groove for 25ft till a move right onto the rib can be made. Straight up easier rock now to the top.
A peg was used for aid in the top groove, on the third pitch. Also an old ring peg (not for aid) was found on the rib under the overhang which was used for protection.
MP Jones CA Jones
July 1966
July 3rd - 5th 1966
Clitheroe Royal Grammar School
Annual 14 Peaks Walk.
Arrived variously between 5 and 8, suppered and slept until 1.0am. About 30 left Pen y Pass at 2.45am seeing dawn on Crib Goch ridge before proceeding in mist to Yr Wyddfa and making the quick descent to tea provided by the support party at Nant Peris. (6.30) The thick cloud enshrouding Elidir Fawr produced a wet welcome for this peak and the deluge continued to Y Garn. The majority retired at the Devil's Kitchen leaving nine to finish the central section. The rain subsided on Glyder Fach and the sun began to emerge for the descent of Tryfan. One more member dropped out at Ogwen to be replaced by a Carnedd expert from the support party. Ogwen was left at 2.30pm and the slow ascent of Pen yr Ole Wen revealed the usual mist on Carnedd Dafydd. Surprisingly, this cleared on the route to Llewellyn and the rest of the walk was accomplished in glorious sunshine. (7.15) The support party who had spent the day doing a gret job in picking up weary walkers from all point on the route made a vain attempt at consoling the eight survivors but the physical and enterological pain precluded enjoyment of the comforts offered.
Many thanks to the MMC for the use of the hut.
David Melville
Last days of freedom before WORK UGH.
PIETROVSKY SMITSCHBINKLEBIRGE
August 1966
Sat 6th August
Albert, Desmain, Bryden and Anonymous
August bank Holiday Meet Aug 26th - 29th
6/10ths of the meet arrived Fri night, Nick H & Mother already in residence, the party being swollen by Buff & sister & nip & dog, on route for elsewhere. Saturday sae Mick (Firth - a new bloke) Ray & Ian round at Cwm Idwal where they warmed up on Faith prior to a vist to Twll Du. Ray & Ian made the most of the dryness on Advocate's Wall. Sunday - a day of bad decisions from the word go. A new approach was made to Craig yr Ysfa - by road through Dolgarreg and then - it was hoped - almost to the foot of the cliff. The road did approach the cliff, however, it is surely the steepest and most bumpy road in N Wales and takes twice as long as walking (not to mention the fact that the Land Rover became bogged down and almost had to be lifted out). By about the middle of the afternoon the large party (9) were at the foot of the cliff. Nick & Lewis Jones - brother of Nick [Jones the black-hairy] & Mike (as before) & Pete & Colin opted for Great Gully. Ray, Jan, Chris & Glen for MyN . However on MyN was a party of incompetents. Glen & Chris joined the queue for Pinnacle Wall, Ray & Ian reluctantly ascended Amphitheatre Rib and were able to observe the aforementioned party on MyN in their 4th hour of suffering. The larger party were at this time experiencing a trying ascent of slimy, grotty, greasy choss from which they emerged just before dark. ETA for dinner had been 6.30 - 7.00 - the party arrived at CF at 10pm.
Monday - Pete, Glen & Lewis shot off to an unknown destination (rumour has it, Anglesey). Nick, Chris, Mike, Colin, Ray & Jan ascended Main Wall, proceeding to the ultimate summit (on the way saving 4 lost fools from almost certain death) and awaited the opening of the bar. A quick dash down Cyrn Las ridge bringing them to the road in v few minutes.
September 1966
Sept 2nd
Cyrn Las The Chasms
Clogwyn y Ddysgl Parson's Nose R.H.Route
C y Dd Arete
Crib Goch Ridge and descent by (??)
RBH
Sept 3rd
1st Pinnacle Rib, Final Wall Climb, Descent by Notch Arete, Y Gully.
4½ hrs
RBH
Sept 6th
Glyder Fach Main Cliff
Lot's Wife, Lot's Groove, Gamma
A very windy and cold day.
RB Harold, Ian Wright
Sept 7th
Round to Craig yr Isfa in order to make amends for B.H. Sunday. The weather was improving and the climbs were free. MyN, Grimmett and Pinnacle Wall, finishing in the sun, made a good afternoon's climbing.
Sept 8th
As hoped for, the weather was good, a reasonable start was made and we were at the foot of Sheaf before any other parties arrived. (By the very (?) most of whom wanted to do Sheaf as well). The route took quite a long time - quite 'ard and quite long, mind you. But the day was still young and Longland's was chosen to round it off.
Sept 9th
Weather not so settled looking, but cool, decided not to Clog today (thank God!), so went up the pass to the "practice rocks". Direct, West Rib and Diagonal gave us plenty of proof that you don't need holds to climb on
Weather seems to be going off. More tomorrow??
Weather well and truly off. Back to the fleshpots today.
R.D.H. E.T. S.D.H. I.W. & M.W.
Not so quick Mr Harold!! - the weather was not all that bad, just enough to produce the usual quota of indecision, and from undecided whether to go home or not, we got round to be undecided about climbing. By mid afternoon Ray & I were undecided enough to go and have a look at Castell Cidwm. We went, and looked, and stayed undecided just long enough to do and finish The Curver as the rains came.
17 Sept 66
Colin, Pete & Hodge to Dinas Mot : Int-
18 Sept 66
Pete & Hodge Dinas Mot : -Ruder
Colin & Ian Ribstone Crack
Glen & Chris Snowdon
Amazing effort after being awoken from slumber at 3.am by Christine. Lyn complaining about rats.
November 1966
10 Nov 1966 Eve -
Arrived in 'donia. M. (Prox week)
12/13 Nov
Jan's Meet
Will no one write up
Weather really foul constant rain.
Trips various - Lliwedd!! Snowdon zig zags
Dolerite Dump (Mot) 1st pitch Brant. Wendy's
All now quiet (except for rats) after departure of sundry damp bods. Hope the weather clears MPJ
Monday
Quite a day.
Tony was lucky to get off the ground, weather still rather mis.
Tuesday
Main Wall - weather still poor so up for the Nth time! Epic conds on the final slab very little contact with rock required just drift up on a gust! Damp. (note for day: blue sky seen in the vicinity of Anglesey!)
Wednesday
Another abortive attempt! This time on Black Cleft on Clog. Having negotiated first pitch (2nd book pitch), the remainder looked so uninviting retreat was made (also due to wetness fatigue and timidity!) Fester for rest of day.
Thursday
Festered
Friday
Weather still poor.
Saturday
Gambit, Ddysgl & Reade's Route, Crib Goch
Really excellent both routes, superb weather & day, finished nicely by seeing Bonnington hold forth on the Eiger Direct with slides. Quite impressive.
Fin MPJ
George's Meet
A fester today was had some of the party buy Bleu, Grob, D Jew and Lan Pris, Caula George and Diane went to see 'Voyage Fantastique' fantastic.
The others went waking for some reason even though it was raining. The walking party Pete - Lin, Stodge & Mike, went to Llyn Quellyn and back. Man & IARG went to Caernarvon.
(Spellington George - epoch!!)
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