8, 9, 10 January 1965

Joint Meet, MMC and L.C. & C.C.

By 2am on Saturday morning all transport had safely arrived and had been left to settle into the quagmires.

Despite strong winds and heavy rain, 3 parties set off on Saturday - one party ascended (and descended) Snowdon, and got drenched; and the wise party walked over the Rivals and along the coast, they reported high winds and a little rain. 3 even went up to Cloggy!

Saturday evening - much talent and wit - songs, recitations, weird jokes - Miss Palmer entertained with her word skill etc etc. An intellectual discussion started after midnight forcing most present to retire to bed.

Sunday - Stronger winds and heavier rain - disinclinations attacked the party - after consuming two meals and cleaning up an early return to England was made.

The Lancashire Caving etc members present enjoyed the weekend despite the poor weather and thank the MMC for their kind hospitality and good company.

Yeah, Yeah, Yeah!

30th Jan 1965

Mass pilgrimage to the Gromlech. Colin & Glen got gripped on Noah's Warning and retired to Pharaoh's Passage where Glen studied his transparent fingers & decided no. *The women festered around giving excuses that they had no slings. Martin & George had an excursion onto Left Wall in an abortive attempt to do the best part of the Girdle. Unfitness showed so M was lowered, much to George's glee, nearly cut in twain, so G led off up Sabre Cut (at last).

*While George & Martin were playing cat's cradle on Left Wall, Di & Lydia(?) soloed Castle Gully that well known interesting route (200') on the right of Flying Buttress. As the sun yet shed her light they continued on up to the summit of an impressive peak behind Dinas Cromlech breaking steps in the occasional snow gully en route. They descended at twilight happy to have surmounted the general festering mood of the party & in so doing showed those inimitable feminine traits of endurance, skill, strength & reason +LIES above all patience which triumphs in the face of all opposition.

31st January

Dy (?) climbed up the first 29 pitches of Flying Buttress.

Colin, George & Martin set of at an early hour for Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, commonly referred to as the Clog, expecting to have it to themselves, they generously shared it with some others. Making some extreme rock & ice moves we reached the bottom of Curving Crack. George led the pitch in immac style. Then Martin cunningly left his ruc-sack hanging ½ way up the next pitch to impede G & C (which it did). The last pitch proved immac up an exposed rib. G & C descended across the 2nd ice field on the way down, while M, followed someone's steps to the top, thence to the summit. Glen & Sandy came up to adore the precipice of the Clog, then returned to the car, thence to WENDY'S V.S.

7th Feb 1965

George & Martin, despite gibes from Messrs. Harold & Jones arose at the crack of dawn (8.am) and set off for Great Slab, having seen a seductive looking crab and sling hanging from it. G had Colin's Berg grimpers on and all were suitably gripped on the first pitch (only the fact of 15/- worth of slingage spurring them on). A great day.

14th Feb 1965

Despite snowy looking clouds, G & M reached the bottom of Sheaf having used two ice pegs. G led the first hard pitch (the 1st pitch). From then on the climb seemed to become progressively harder as we got tireder, some daring swings around and about the <??>, also ice slab climbing. Highly recommended.

G.H. J.M.P.S.

25th Feb

George's eye had fallen on a sizeable roof near Betws y Coed. So eventually we arrived at the bottom of it, laden with gear. Having wasted about ¾ hour trying to knock a large block (½ ton) off the edge of preliminary overhang, Martin traversed right to beneath a groove, using a short, stub peg and a sling on a nerve-wracking spike, a reasonable peg was embedded in a groove, thence to the pt where the groove met the roof. A freak hole took a v. good wedge and M was hanging free, launched over the 10' roof! Then another freak, a good thread, further progression, a totally new experience hanging beneath a flat roof. Another good wedge in a hole, good and safe so far. Then the 1st peg, a good channel, ripped out at the lip of the overhang, (removed by G with one swipe). A series of heaves with two slings on flat topped bollards, insecure and a great heave to drag the rope to a stance. G followed in 1/3rd of the time, cursing at having to leave two wedges behind. A good roof, two wedges in position, for anyone repeating for 2nd ascent! Only worth doing for the roof. Further details from G & M

28th Feb

George is 22 on Sunday.

To be or not to be? We wondered as we looked at the Central Gully at the Black Ladders. We were after some snow and ice work not desperate snow and ice covered rock as this appeared to be. We rose this morning at 7am after M's? fire engine like alarm clock rang us awake. Anyway 'Not to be' that was the answer so we chose another gully further east which had a steep ice pitch to start but eased off higher up. Martin led up the first ice after screwing a peg in for me. This pitch, about 701 proved quite difficult, but we were well geared and a few screws gave good protection. After dropping M's camera and watching it slide gently towards the abyss, where, praise be, it stopped, I followed M up to his stance, with the camera. From here I managed to thread a sling around a huge icicle and using this I was able to clamber into the gully proper. This was full of loose wet snow, and we just ploughed our way summit wards. By this time we were surrounded by mist and it was snowing. 700' higher we reached the ridge where a terrible wind was blowing. Only able to see about 10 yards we kept as close to the edge as possible and after some wanderings we eventually made our way back down to the cwm.

A good day. M & G

March 27th 65

Sat George and Martin did Barbarian and Chris and Babs did Poor Man's Peuterey whilst Lin and Pauline festered.

A good day

March 28th 65

Chris & Bob Flying Buttress

4th April

Ian & Chris did Canopy Wall Climb on the Milestone

Bob & Lin did Rowan Tree & part of Pulpit

5th Late start to Bochlwyd Buttress, Chris & Bob did Arete and Slab & 5 Pitch

6th Chris, Bob & Lin went to Idwal Slabs and started up Hope, but the rais came so retired after the 2nd pitch to Caer Fran and played chess.

7th Rain this morning went to Holyhead, nice and sunny in the afternoon.

8th Rain all day.

9th Chris & Bob had an unsuccessful attempt on Nea so went and did Little Buttress Climb.

10th Chris, Bob, Pete Hodge & Nick Halls did some climbs to the left of the Miner's Track.

11th Chris, Bob, Pete, Nick, Lin & Brian Knox went to Tremadoc, Chris, Bob & Brian did Oberon.

CDS & BD

24th April 65

The day dawned with a mass assault on the Clogwyn y Grochan by Colin, Glen, George, Hodge, Di, Nick Jones, Nick Halls, Chris, Bob, Fred and Harry. The following routes were ascended: Nea & Delphos by George & Di; Brant and Petite Fleur (Craig Ddu) by Colin and Glen, Spectre by Hodge and Chris, Nea and Delphos also ascended by Harry, Fred and Nick Halls who also accomplished the crux move twice!

Sylvia and John went treking, getting fit for the three thousands.

The rest of the party festered.

1st May '65

Welsh 3000's

Up at 4.0am accompanied by David Robinson and Jim Murray quick breakfast and away to Pen y Pass, arriving at 4.55. David leaving Jim & myself to bash off up Crib Goch, ½ hour to the summit of Crib Goch arriving at 6.0am on to Crib y Ddysgl at 6.40. At this time in the morning the Pass was looking in alpine form. On to Snowdon 7.01. Taking our time down to Nant Peris, we arrived at Vaynol Arms 8.04. David arrived several minutes later in a car with my next companion for the trip, Colin Yorke.

After a brew and some food we left for Elidir Fawr at 8.40 arriving at its summit 10.15 - a very heavy slog. On to Y Garn summit 11.17 followed by a gentle stroll down to Llyn y Cwm. A fresh burst of energy took me up the screes without much trouble although Colin wasn't too happy at this stage. Top of Glyder Fawr 12.12, Glyder Fach 12.45. Down screes to col on up to Tryfan at 1.45. To save our feet from a pounding we took our time down to Ogwen arriving at car park 2.30.

Another brew and grub provided by David, who had brought the next two pace setters along, namely Ray Harold & Chris Shannon. Were away for 3.0. made heavy work of Pen yr Ole Wen being hampered by high winds. Arrived at summit 4.10. made good progress to Carnedd Dafydd 4.40. Weather deteriorating, few spots of rain, sheer hell from now on.Yr Elen 5.35 Carnedd Llewelyn 6.04 Foel Grach 6.30, Foel Fras 7.07. Down to Aber 8.15 picked up by Dave & Colin. Thanks to organiser Dave for motoring around the valleys.

Brian J Knox

May 16th

Glen and Colin arrived out at 10.30am and immediately set off up Tryfan to try Munich, after a long walk up they arrived at the foot of the climb.

After a few gripping moments which included descending the crux to free a jammed rope, they eventually reached the top.

Still feeling fit and keen they set off for Lot's Wife on Glyder Fach. This turned out to be an excellent route, and on completion they descended to the car feeling happy and very pleased with themselves.

May 17th

Colin & Glen Direct on Dinas Mot.

June 26th 1965

Colin Jones & Martin Leg Slip, Tremadoc.

June 27th

The Royal Grammar School, Clitheroe

Annual 14 Peaks attempt

Arrived on Sunday at 8.30, went to bed at 11.00 and got up at 1am. We had a slight breakfast and set off in the minibus to Pen y Pass at 2.00am. The walk started at 2.35 with an interesting scramble up Crib Goch and thence along the ridge to Crib y Ddysgl and Snowdon. At 6.20 we arrived at the support van for food and coffee. By this time the dawn had broken and the sun was shining strongly and made the going difficult as we forced our way up the arduous slope of Elidir Fawr. Once again the heat made the going difficult as we climbed the Glyders. On Y Garn several members suffering from stomach troubles dropped out and took an escape route down to Ogwen. We just avoided the mist as we scrambled up Tryfan and completed the last peak of the second section.. We arrived at Ogwen at 3.00 and rested for 45 minutes. When we set off again two more were forced to remain behind. Mr Thorpe then took the leadership of the party and led us across the Carnedds, by this time covered in mist and drizzle. By some remarkably accurate compass bearings we arrived with little difficulty at the final peak. The last long slog down the winding fell path was one final test of our endurance, and curses were being heaped on to the leaders who were rightly blamed for all our sufferings. Time of arrival varied. The first few arrived at about 10.00pm and the last at about 10.30pm. Soup and stew were provided and rendered everybody fit for another day, and at 1 o'clock everybody went to bed with gratitude. Our thanks to Jim Grindle and the MMC for allowing us the use of the hut once again.

30th June 1965

George, Di, Martin & Sandy, festering in Llanberis before going to the Alps, left their respective abodes (tent & caravan) and decided as this is Sandy's 21st birthday, to do White Slab. Having approached the first pitch to study his form, with great apprehension: George maneuvered across in good style, having fixed a good runner. This traverse needs good protection and is equally dangerous for 1st & 2nd. The groove leading to the base of the actual slab was wet, loose and fairly reasonable. The 1st slab pitch looked frightening, but the presence of an extra peg (2 instead of one) made life a little rosier! By belaying just above Linnells Leap, G could protect about 30ft of the slab. Leaving the arete a deviation brings one back to the arete and a peg in the crack, thence to another, over the arete and an interesting swing into Check & Groove . After some tem minutes frustrated lassoe-ing , Geo retired to the stance and after a further 10 minutes the spike was 'caught'. An easy rope move followed to a good belay and a stance on a shifting sod. Geo dissappeared up a long narrow slab which lies at a slightly easier angle, and avoided the 20 ft groove which was dripping with slime, making a more direct climb. Now came the crux, the overhanging rib of Longland's, George was thrust into the lead as Martin quivered behind a rock; all concerned were gripped and nearly fell off. Thence to the top.

JMP Remoh Egroeg

17/7/65

Brant Colin & D Riley

18/7/65

Direct Route, Dinas Mot

Colin and Chris

D Riley and KC

Western Slabs Colin and D Riley

25 July 1965

Arrived in Wales after a journey via (Dijon) France. Quite an interesting way to come.

Colin Jones

Sun 25th

Slape Wall V.S.

Mon 26th

Babel V.S.

Phantom Rib V.S.

Lion V.S.

Crackstone Rib in reverse V.D.

Tue 27th

Bole Way V.S. Direct finish & very interesting pitch

Overlapping Wall Direct start, Variation finish

Nick Halls arrived today so my peaceful solitude is over V.D.

Wed 28th

Rained heavily all day today. Went to the Pen y Gwryd were we consumed a great quantity of ale. A strange bearded type of mountaineer came in enquiring the whereabouts of Lockwood's Chimney and promptly received the assistance of six drunken guides, a quick stumble up Lockwood's then we returned to the P y G for tea and cakes.

Thurs 29th

Continuous rain, continuous festering. To be continued...

Friday 30th

Rain in morning, Sun in afternoon, Moon at night.

Girdle of Carreg Wastad V.D. or ?

Wasted what?

Plus Meet 31st June - 1st August 1965

Snowdon Horseshoe completed an the Saturday by Dave Robinson, Chris Shannon, Brian Knox, Colin Yorke and guests Marshall Long from Kansas City and Alan Dermott. Fine day out with good views. Glen Hirons and guest David Riley climbed Babel and Ribstone Crack. On Sunday Dave & Marshall, Colin and Alan on Tryfan and the Glyders. Glen Hirons & David Riley climbed Oxo, this was Glen's first week-end for two months he has nearly recovered from his disease. Brian and Chris with Nick Halls also climbed Oxo. Another dry, clear day.

Colin Yorke

Sat Colin Yorke's meet arrived, weather fine, did Kaiser and Spectre V.S.

Sun Went to the Wenault with Chris, Glen and Co. Tried Bovine but found somebody had removed the peg from the second pitch, having no pegs or hammer with us we retreated to Oxo V.S.

Mon Rained all day today, spent the day shopping and festering.

Tues Met Nick and Richard from the Pen y Gwryd at the Cromlech, did Noah's Warning and Ivy Sepulchre V.S.

Wednesday

Sat in Hut. Grilled Mc Kinnon on sheep farming.

Medium rare. On toast is tastier.

Thursday

Walked to Grochan. Examined the dripping walls, fortunately did not fancy N'Gombo. Looked at only dry piece of rock vis Spectre. Forced our way due to Colin's sarcasms.

Friday Walked to Grochan. Examined the dripping walls, unfortunately fancied N'Gombo. Saved from death by Brian Riley, who led crux and gave that no good, gammy legged, spastic weakling* Halls a tight rope, amid violent hisses from Grochan meadow festerers, thus preserving him for more tall stories and exaggeration.

*You flatter yourself, Halls.

Saturday

Walked to Wendy's in glorious sunshine, awaited return of our climbing gear, which had wandered to Anglesey with a drinking companion. Adjourned to Padarn Lake Hotel for game of darts & liquid lunch. 3 o'clock left for Llanberis Pass. Walked up to Mot and climbed Diagonal.

Sun Narrow Slab was completed by Nick and Colin after a 30ft peel by Colin, (nut runners are great)

PASS Hard

Sat 6th Aug 65

Chris, Glen & Bob arrived in the Pass and enjoyed (?) climbing Trilon & Petite Fleur

Sun 7th Aug 65

Chris & Glen climbed Brant in immaculate style (not Chris)

Sat 14th Aug 65

French for Hill. No, Irish girl!

Wow-man?

Glen lead an incompatent party, made up of Collin Jones & wowman, up Phantom Rib.

Colline completely shatterd by the experience, festerd. Glen then did Erosion Groove with Christ, later. J Christ, Glen & Nick did Yellow Groove, later Collin did Lion with a married man!

Our lord, Amen

Glen you are a spastic speller.

Sun 15th

Went to Anglesey to fester.

Sat 21st August

Festered

Sunday 22nd

Cracks on Mot

Sat 21st Aug

Festered

Sunday 21st August

On motorbike with Chris driving!

Merlin & Festered }

Glen & Chris

Monday 23rd Aug

Arrived once more, after 2 months training in the Alps. (VS)

Residing in the Pass (Tent). (V.S.)

*Watch it!

My chauffeur* also arrived back, joining me next week.

Weather, lousy went to see the Beatle film with Bob & John (V.S.)

Tuesday 24th Aug 65

Late to rise, weather lousy when it really lashed down we decided to Climb Yellow Groove! George led magnificently (this Alpine training really improves ones technique), Bob followed absolutely saturated (wet) through to the bowels. Whilst John walked in the rain (Getting soakin wet).

A wet day. Bob, George and John

Bob had been reading the 'Observer' but we managed to persuade him not to parachute off the top (no parachute you know).

George lacks the gentle good looks of a pop singer. Here! Here! (But Bob doesn't).

Aug Latter days of.

Camped up Pass.

Sat Saw 'Help!' Then did Brant Direct & Glen retrieving ace sling & nut & crab also failed on Hangover Direct.

Sun Went to Tremadoc.

Fought our way up to do Merlin, overcrowded & trogs so did potential 1st ascent where the next climb left used to be Rienetta (Grotty, lost glasses on large oak branch that plunged down). Also Fang (gained sling) and 1st pitch of Plum.

Monday

Had an ace time on Plexus, highly recommended, somewhat like the Nose Direct in places, all necessary holds clean and necessary pegs in position.

Tuesday

Saw George on the Cromlech, rain swept up the Pass, so S Williams and I swept off to Tremadoc with it where S.W. talked me up Vector (really good).

Wednesday

Started a succession of daily flops, fell 20' off Surplomb on 1st pitch, no injury except one finger and damaged pride.

Thursday

Led Freda up Erosion then S.W. (in boots) up the direct finish, not as hard as made out. Then went for constitutional plop on Surplomb 10' on an earlier runner!!

Friday

Owing to injury sustained while doing hut problem in Cromlech Club hut, no Grimping, weather murky as well.

M

Aug

Wednesday Brant via Brant Direct with Lou. Brown damp but good

Thursday Went to look at Thing. Very wet so did Gates with Lou.

Friday Morning festered. Afternoon did Hangover with Freda.

Sat festered met MA Course.

Sunday took course on Conway crags. Then up to Dinas Bach.

Monday Direct on Glyder Fach with Diane. Lots Groove with Mr Harold = very good. Chris and Nick Halls did Main Wall.

Tuesday Flying Buttress - Spiral Stairs

Wednesday Tryfan - Gashed Crag.

Thursday Wrinkle - Crackstone Rib - Skylon. Dinner hour = 'Overlapping' with Freda

Friday Nea - with course - 4 good lads & George.

Sept - ?

Weather really lousy.

Monday Went to Clog with Lou B & Nick Escort. Very wet but did Bowshaped 'ard.

Tues Festered

Kilnsey Main

Wednesday Festered but came up with the idea to go to Kilnsey . After chatting up various people trying to get a lift up I gave up hope and went up to the Cromlech where I was given free nosh by Tony one of the Towin instructors. Meanwhile, loe had managed to fix a lift. A 4am Thursday we arrived at Kilnsey, where we expected to kip in a barn, but all the doors were closed & shuttered.

We eventually kipped under the Overhang and awoke at 7am had a brew and Lou and I started the Direct route at 8.30 whilst Nick and John, our companions, started Northey Buttress. We tossed a coin and Lou led first pitch. Lou geared himself up - and weighing at least 3 stone heavier, surged up a small overhang to the first wedge. Within seconds he was back on the ground clutching in bewilderment the wedge cord. He sorted himself out and surged back up, this time success (Rah - Rah). Eventually we were both on the ledge, and I led off across the roof. This is technically ? quite easy but some of the pegs and bits of cord look nice and EVIL. By this time we had an audience from the road - this really made us feel good (Ah! Fame at last) and we made one or two comments (not altogether nice ones). As I reached the lip and climbed over without any mishap. So by 1 o'clock we had finished. V.S.?

A great route this, a fantastic position, worth repeating.

George M.A.I. Ltd

Past Fortnight

21st September

Smith - Longland's, Ivy Sep, Scratch Arete, Striptease.

VECTOR HARRD NEBLEG SLIP TENSOR NEW ROUTE ON GROCHANHAN GOVER DIRECT SAW MAJOR DUNDEE AND CLEOPATRA WITH COURSE WRINKLE FLYING BUTTRESS SPIRAL STAIRS PULPIT DIRECT HOPE CRACKSTONE RIB RIB AND SLABONE DINNER HOUR IVY SEPAUTOGRAPH SONES HILLINGE ACH ONLY ONE PER PERSON GEORGE HOMER M.B.E.

6.11.65

Today we had a spiffing time at the tree mud rock, frolicking amongst the flora and fauna which is renown throughout the whole of Christendom for it's luxurious and tropical grandeur. On this day the sixth of November 1965, two routes fell to the deft P.A.'s of the intrepid band of pioneers, these routes being Oberon direct and Scratch Arete.

A mile by mile account of our intrepid journey from the slums of Liverpool to these lovely surroundings on our 1954 B.33 500cc Single (Ex - B31. Engine No YB 3321) with .003&" inlet tappet clearance and .001&" exhaust tappet clearance (making a hell of a row over the ton), carburating on Supercortimaggiori HCCOH4 100 octane orange juice would be here superfluous. KARATE. Die. Ugh.

Sat 27th Nov 1965

On Sat morn on snap decision came to Wales on Sat Morn arrived Pass 1500hrs. Dives, finished in dark (shape of things to come). 'Slept' at Cwm yr Wrach (v.little sleep due to various rowdy bods).

On Sunday morn, read papers @ Wendy's, thence to Clog shrouded in snow, left our trade marks on various ledges. However our choice fell on Sunset Crack the cleanest lot. Alas a be-P.A.'d extremist supported by an unbelayed 2nd was dicing with death on snowy ledges, we promptly belayed his second with various pegs etc. However, after there retreat Nick shot up to the ledge and belayed. A good runner on iced jugs to the bottom of the crack and up we went. Nick tackled a nice ice chimney, and descended 'plus vite' onto my head! The most recent tumbling clown. In a state of advanced grip reascended now with ample protection on water ice hand jams (Herman 'Bulshit' Halls) belayed on chockstone and attempted to tension to ice covered ledge. Failed. The ascent of Martin ap Jones the Grip was accomplished with much pulling on slings. He had a good idea, why not stand in a sling, 'Mein Gott' my mind is no good.

Martin gained ledge and proceeded with much scraping and and ice falling. Achieved the ledge below Taurus in dark, amid snow and icy turf. BENIGHTED!

Traversed left! Traversed right! ???

Proceeded right to verglassed corner. Full stop. I prepared for bivouac, but 'Martin the Grip' had a romantic idea, filched from Bonnatti's Book, he decided to throw a loop of rope and slingage up hoping it would catch on a spike. Felt it might keep him amused and warm so I rolled a fag, belayed and sat down to sleep.

To my chagrin (as it was his idea) it caught, we tested it by both swinging on it. Martin 'the Grip' prussicked up protected by his alarmed second. I followed hand over hand over hand protected from above, feet slipping on ice. 'Shitting red hot conkers'.

Achieved relatively easy ground above Central Gully. Stumbled off on steep snow & rock to top of crag, belaying each other. The wind & driven snow hit us as we reached the top. Still roped we stumbled through snow, loosing direction once, and tried to reach railway line. Crossed it at a place where the rails showed through the snow 'very fortunately'!!!

Followed it down rejoicing!

Arrived at car still roped, at 20 to 8, drove to Llanberis to meet rescue team 'Spider & <???> from Bryn Revail. Honour retained. Food, film show at Bryn Revail. Returned for sacks Monday.

Fri Sat 3rd December

Postscript. After a really good noghts sleep, we awoke, tired & haggard. Alas a blizzard was moaning up from the North.

Having breakfast we staggered up from the car (stuck near the bridge) to the ½ Way House, after this things became progressively fouler, almost total white out & waist deep snow. This delightful exped. Culminated in a cunning circular movement back to ½ Way House & home, our sacks still (we hope) sitting docilely beneath Clog. Tomorrow (Sat) retrieval must be made.

Route home, Monday etc: Llanberis Pass blocked

Ogwen (just)

Llandudno

St Asaph

Denbigh

Ruthin

Corwen

Llangollen

Wrexham

Chester

Liverpool

Postscript Alas: no sacks: someone hath knackered our sacs, containing v. valuable gear!! No sign. (Alas). We are now sackless. N & M. and various other things, duvet, crash hat etc