January 1964
4th January
Last night we bivouacked under the Milestone Buttress and today we made our way over to the hut, climbing Grooved Arete and Linear Climb on our journey. George & Pete
Jan 10/12
Lancashire CRC Clubmeet - Caer Fran
Our thanks to Merseyside MC for a very enjoyable weekend. Excellent weather but a trifle too cold for climbing. Walking parties out in Glyders & Snowdon etc on both days. Some climbing in the Pass (Kaisergebirge Wall, Brandt Direct, Main Wall being the best). Walking on Cloggy.
K Holding ?? LCRCC
Jan 25th
Trotman & party trotted over from P.Y.G. towards Tryfan. Small reconnaissance party detached see effects of 7 years wear & tear thereon. Parties rapidly reunited on Tryfan due to deteriorating weather.
Jan 30th
Nick Halls now in semi-permanent occupation of Mountain Districts his base recognisable as a "Brand new Ventile Mountain tent" (note that).
Sat Walked over to Ogwen via Nant Peris Glyder Fach and the Gribbin Slab & Groove and Devil's Kitchen. Returned over top.
Sun Walked again to Ogwen with George and did Girdle of the East Wall of Idwal Slabs (a really good route).
Mon Hitched to Tremadoc
Tues Craig Dhu Wall, Scratch.
Wed One Step in the Clouds, Merlin, Shadrach.
Thurs Striptease, Leg Slip (damn hard) returned to Caer Fran.
Glen Hiron's meet, despite some funny faces being pulled at his cooking, everybody ate like gannets. He has been recommended for 7 more meets this year. Glen's comment ' Thank God it's over'.
Monday
Ron James came across to offer me some kind of job over at Ogwen Cottage, it's money. Am now to be found at Ogwen Cottage.
Nick
March 1964
21st March
Phantom Rib, after strenuous times on every boulder we could find.
Pete-Martin-George
22nd March
Crackstone Rib Martin, George, Pete
Cracks, Dinas Mot Martin, Pete Grip & wet
Direct, Dinas Mot Getting the feel of things for Diagonal
(X.X, X.X)
True, True
April 1964
Easter Weekend
A very large meet, hut full to capacity.
Sun. Party went round to Ogwen -
Sat. Individual pursuits.
Friday. A,B,C slabs at Ogwen
Monday. Large party went to Anglesey.
Ray, Buff, George, Chris Main Wall
Pete, Brian, Alaister Intermediate Slabs
Tues. Pete - Colin } Avalanche & Red Wall
Ray started work Bangor.
Wed. Pete & Buff Short Tree Chimney & Rib and Slab
Martin - Pete West Rib, half } Finish W Slabs
Thurs. Martin & John Sickle & Brant Direct
John de-pegged Ochre Groove. Martin offered first aid to a yob, was offered a pint but didn't claim it.
Fri. Flying Buttress with Ken?
It must be noted that for the first four the stove was a dead loss the living room only being warm when approx 15 people were in the room. On the last two evenings it has excelled itself, it can only be concluded that the stove does not like a crowd. It has been suggested that the coak (sic) is second hand.
Sat 4th April
Sat 4th April
Nick and his friend Denny stayed the night on their migration from Ogwen Cottage (Ugh!) to the Alps (Whoopee!). Nothing special to say except may the inhabitants of Ogwen shrivel and die in their twisted souls, and live on as the zombies they closely represent.
Denny's mark
Nick Denny
Neat but watch your spelling.
8/10
Tues 7th - Friday
Cleaned up the hut - brushed and washed throughout. Decided to brighten up the living room - so painted the table cream and the benches green.
Think it's almost time the walls were repainted, the grey looks very drab & was only as a temporary measure in the first place. Did a little work on the front garden - left the more respectable weeds in the flower beds - don't know what they will grow into.
Weekend 11th & 12th
Weather terrible on Sunday. Most went to Eddie's in Bethesda.
On Sat Martin & George did Erosion Groove, Brant Direct, Kaiser ,Ribstone Crack. Several did I - IO during the evening.
April 25th
Colin, John and Pete went down to Tremadoc and did Shadrach and Great Western.
Previous Friday
Hut to Snowdon summit 1½ hrs. Ray & Buff.
May 1964
May 2nd & 3rd
Work Meet
Those present
The work done.
Complete redecoration of living room. Fred has at last got his stones over the fireplace, in the form of printed wallpaper. The floor painted terra-cotta which is a vast improvement. The outside painted green, with George hanging from etrier attached to a gutter bracket. Painting and general cleaning up took place throughout. Dave & Ray did an excellent job in building the ladies toilet and were voted first class 'bog-men'.
On Saturday night (11.45 - 1.0pm) slides were shown by Alan. Jim showing shots of the Easter holiday at Ben Nevis Glen Coe & also several Welsh climbing ones. Fred showed us a few of his old classics. All very enjoyable. Bob, who has decided to go to sea - sailed last week.
Witsun Sat
Martin and George did Left Wall after an epic peel by Martin. 7hrs - (80Ft lob)
Sun
Same pair did Spiral Stairs and the Thumb.
Joint LC & CC & MMC 14 3000's Meet
4.30am Sat 9th Mass start from Caer Fran of 19 not too enthusiastic walkers, who set out in the most appalling weather conditions to climb Snowdon the first summit. Due to a hot pace this summit was reached at 6.00.
The multitude trotted - happily (at this stage. Fargo-Wells) along to Crib Goch. Descended to Nant Peris via Cwm Glas where MMC had a strong lead.
The second section starting at Elidir Fawr sorted out the walkers from the climbers, the latter falling by the wayside, in various stages of rheumatic distress.
When the party reached Ogwen at the foot of Tryfan it was noticed that all MMC members had long since been at Mervyn's with the exception of Stuart and Mel. , who had chosen a different and arduous route. They intended to finish via Elidier so doing the round trip, but retired after 11 summits. All but two of the very hardy LC & CC tyros failed on the final section. The two successful ones overcame the rapidly deteriorating weather, to reach Aber at about 9.30pm.
The walk was hampered throughout by very strong gale force winds, often head-on.
(Note: The catering was communal and highly successful despite the culinary efforts of Buff. Signed J Murray
Whit Meet
Saturday
Half the meet (Ray & Mike) climbed Parson's Nose - thence over Snowdon returning via the Llanberis track. John Sands did the Snowdon - Moel Eilio round.
Sunday
The continuous glorious weather coaxed the Harolds to Cloggy in a misguided attempt to escape the madding crowds. The M crowd was ahead of them, to each side, above and below on every climb. The Harolds blame the congestion for taking 10 hours on Narrow Slab and Great Slab, no doubt you will draw other conclusions.
The other 'meeters' went to Criccieth and came back imitating lobsters.
Monday
The slightly inclement weather kept the party indoors and the hut was cleared out and left in spotless condition. (It was known that Hon. Hut Warden was arriving later in the day).
A small meet but enjoyable!!!
The return to Liverpool was another matter!!!
There is no disguising Fred's writing. RDH
Ray being illiterate) Seconded & passed. Buff
Saturday May 23rd
Cwm Silyn (Mod & V Diff and VS variants)
Caer Fran depart 10am. Rhyd Ddu approached by way of Telegraph Col and Y Garn. Nantle succumbed via Eastern Arete. (Foot of arete from Caer Fran about 3hrs). Pleasant ridge trundle to Craig Cwm Silyn and descent to foot of slab via Ordinary Route. Kirkus' Route Depart Cwm Silyn 7.0pm. Direct return to Caer Fran via Nantle - Betws Garmon - Waunfawr - Bwlch y Groes. Caer Fran arrive 10.40pm. Cold milk and refreshments near church in Betws Garmon strongly recommended!
Alan Stuart
Jim Murray
Sunday May 24th
Visit to Dinas Mot, Llanberis Pass. Good conditions started off in good form:-
Ray & Buff Direct Route, Western Slabs, Diagonal Route and West Rib,Martin Jones joined in for Diagonal!
By 5.0 o'clock we had run out of routes and had to descend to egg & chips at Caer Fran. A very fine days rock climbing.
Saturday May 23rd
Martin Jones & Colin Jones (keeping up with the Jones') packed rope and nuts and set off for Cwm Glas. Climbing Main Wall then trundled to Gambit Clogwyn - Yr Ddisgl. After this second route ran round to Crib Goch. Martin suggested doing the Horseshoe whereupon Colin shifted and cracked his ankle (the excuses some people get up to to get out of a walk). The party then descended to the valley disappointed at not completing the days expedition. Tea was had at Wendy's instead of Snowdon summit.
Sunday May 30th
Martin and George did Cemetery Gates and George and Martin then did Ivy Sepulchre. Hoorah! Boulder problems. Tush. Pass Hards.
Chris, Colin, Ray & Buff flogged over to Craig Isfa in foul weather and did Pinnacle Wall. Heros . Wrong about the weather as usual. Fools .
June 1964
June 13th & 14th
Good meet with large attendance. On both days thoses present split up into various groups, to walk and climb as they wished.
Sat
Chris, Colin, Peachy & Jack - Chasm Route
Martin, Ray & George Pegging near Jones' Barn
Martin, George, Ray & Buff Chalkren Stairs (Craig yr Ogof) N - Choss
Sun
Chris, Collin, Jim & Ian Pinnacle, Flake Crack
Ray, Buff & Malcolm Brant, Phantom Rib
George & Martin Spectre, Sickle
George, Martin & Ray Karwendle, Brant Direct
As George was eating his breakfast he espied a rat, peeping at him from inside one of Barbara Hall's boots. In a flash he grabbed the boot, wrapped it up in Peachy's sweater and hurled it outside - where the rat was duly executed. Very quick thinking on the part of the Hon. Pres.
June 20th & 21st
Reasonably dry but cold weekend.
Sat George and Martin went to look at The Corner decided it was too wet to climb this weekend.
Martin & Ray Cemetery Gates, Pharaoh's Passage
George, Buff & Colin Pharaoh's Passage & part of Noah's Warning
Ray, Buff & Colin Pharaoh's Wall
Martin, Buff & Colin Karwendel Wall
Sun
Ray & Buff Ribstone Crack, Erosion Groove, Unicorn
George & Colin Erosion Groove, Shadow Wall, Ribstone Crack & Corvix
Martin & Loo Brown Pharaoh's Passage, Overlapping Wall
A good weekend.
Friday 26th June
A pleasant day on Craig Ddu when Anthropology, Petite Fleur and Yellow Groove were knocked off. Buff led Yellow Groove, her first VS lead.
Ray & Buff
73rd June
George led Colin & Pete up Brant Direct.
HARDS
28th June
Jack, Albert, Keith, Brian & Martin Trotman Up Moel Eilio, Moel Seagorian to foot of Cloggy observed efforts of climbers & then back home. A good weekend marred by uncertain weather.
29th June
Buff, Hodge & Pete - Petite Fleur, Yellow Groove and Anthropology
30th June
Merlin, Scratch Arete, Hodge & Pete - very fine climbs.
The same evening we also went up to do Slape but were beaten by the dreaded wall- but we'll be back!
July 1964
1st July
Hodge & Pete enjoyed a fine day on Great Slab on Cloggy.
2nd July
Direct, Western Slabs - Dinas Mot Hodge and Pierre.
Buff & Dog walked up to Half Way House
4th July
Martin, Colin, Chris } Diagonal
Martin, Colin West Rib (Boots)
4th July
6th July
Buff & Martin Brant Direct (Boots)
(A runner was left behind by a flying 2nd ! So muggins had to remove it)
Buff & Martin Half of Sickle - retreat from peg.
(Some people are frustrated of (sic) abseiling)
Chickens
Midnight trip on lake. Great daring!
July 5th
The Royal Grammar School, Clitheroe
Annual 14 Peaks attempt. [2 support party, 21 walkers of whom 19 finished]
Arrived on Sunday 5th at four o'clock, went to bed at nine and rose at one o'clock in the morning. Our applologies to Ray & Buff who were subjected to four hours hilarity from the inmates of one room. At two thirty the walk was started in usual mist on summits - down to support van, food & coffee at 6.20; fine morning. Slog up Elidir Fawr into mist which began to break so that we had sporadic sunshine on the Glyders.
Ogwen at 1.30 where two fell out (one blisters, one food poisoning). Our Carneddau specialist, one of two with the support van took the lead now & guided us through the usual thick mist, over the tops & down to Aber. Times of arrival varied from 8.50 to 9.30, thestaff gallantly bringing up the rear. Platefuls of stew were followed by bear bought by the staff who determined to get a good night's rest or a good night's drinking somehow. Our thanks to the MMC for the use of Caer Fran as a base; it made the wholw trip more enjoyable.
Jim Grindle, DS Rycroft, PJ Thingwal, M Cole, GM Procter
SM Rawcliffe, N Thorpe, K Barrymore, J Albridge
D Clarkinson, DET Green, D Durling, Martin D Sluth
4th July
Capel Pinnacles
5th
Tryfan
6th
Intermediate Slabs, Parson's Nose
7th
Rain?
8th
Snowdon Horseshoe
9th
Craig yr Ysfa Carnedds , Pen yr Ole Wen
Brian J Knox
10th
11th July
Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadoc
(Started damp, drying nicely the washed us off P.T. Variation which had been started inadvertently after Krakatoa lost)
12th July
Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadoc.
Hot sunny day! Believe it or not! A Stuart, J Murray
12th July
Moel Hebog along the ridge from Rhyd Ddu.
Fred Smith, Dave Salter, Colin Yorke & Dave Robinson.
13th July
Petite Fleur, Yellow Groove* - Jim Murray, *Buff (led), Dave
14th July
Very wet - a few hut jobs.
15th
A Jim Murray 'Special' Crackstone Rib, scrambled onto Esgair Felen, Glyders, down Bristly Ridge, 1st Pinnacle Rib onto Tryfan, Hope on Idwal Slabs, Grey Rib on the Upper Cliff, Glyder Fawr (for the second time) and so down to the Pass. 13½ hrs. And the weather was great also after a doubtful start.
16th July
Main Wall Cyrn Las. Jim & Dave R
17th July
Cwm Glas via Dinas Bach (Flake Chimney & Flake Traverse) & Craig Cwm Baudy Mawr (Minor Buttress) Very warm for the second day. Dave S & Dave R
18th July
Started Gashed Crag. At the top of the first chimney the taps were turned on and a fantastic thunder storm developed. Traversed to the gully on the right and waited about ½hr until rain and hail had eased, then descended gully which was a torrent of water. Soaked! (Others less lucky)
J Lloyd, I Hilditch, B Knox
The storm which lasted about ¾hr in the late afternoon, hit Llanberis Pass & Ogwen areas (Capel didn't have a drop of rain). The Nant Francon Pass was blocked & the Llanberis Pass partly so. It caught Dave Salter & me below Llyn Clyd as we descended from Y Garn. Dave had just had a dip in the Llyn! The track below Llyn Idwal became a river & the thunder & lightening were continuous. Measured a number of hailstones which were more than ½" in diameter. Passed two 'seasoned' climbers, who, unlike us, had decided to shelter under a rock. They had thought it right to place their nailed boots 15 ft away and watch them fill with water!
August 1964
1st August
Annual pilgrimage to Great Slab, Cwm Silyn where the Ordinary Route was accomplished in thick mist.
Brian G, Brian K, Geoff (Mr Edwards acted as porter)
August 2nd
Breakfast was followed one hour later by lunch (significant of the days' proceedings) The afternoon was spent festering inside or around Wendy's where the woman situation was adjudged by the interested parties as being last. Dinner followed @ 6.10pm and then as the storm clouds finally departed, Cloggy appeared in the gloom. Sudden inspiration leerd us in the face, and three parties burst forth into the Pass.
PS & FM Nea
GH & NJ & IW Wrinkle - (Nearly benighted)
Comments were passed on the dress of some people gathered about the near proximity of Wendy's. PS & FM were stalked by guilty parties to Capel Goch Road.
?
I apologise for introducing this long-winded guest to the club. In future I will ensure that his comments are confined to lavatory walls. PS
It must be realised that many people gain erotic pleasure from scrawls on bog walls?
Loquacious Wayfarer!
7th August
Arrived this afternoon in reasonable weather (basically fine at that!) A spirited charge up Capel Goch Road did not succeed me or the like through the first gate and I was forced to dismount (very forcibly). With the left footrest bent even more, the rest of the journey was completed without incident.
Whoever put that gate there wants *%$?#.
8th August
Sat The basically fine weather continued with heavy cloud, mist and rain until the afternoon when the sun shone through occasionally. Ian Wright arrived to collect some of his things, and with a great surge of energy I accompanied him to Wendy's where tea was supped. Having wished Ian 'Bon Voyage' (from the book of that name) I visited some of the more notable of the region's gems ie Dolbadarn Castle, Snowdon Waterfall (still falling), Wendy's & Caer Fran (The House Of The Rising Sun).
9th August
Sun It dawned cloudy (well at 10.00am anyway) but the basically fine weather showed through, and with the help of a few isobars, improved quickly. So donned boots and pushed off to Snowdon via Telegraph Col (Bwlch Maes-gwm ) Llyn Ffynnon y gwys, Cwmclogwyn, Cwm Treweuydd, Llyn Nadroedd, Llechog, & Bwlch Main! (Work that little lot out ). Returned down Railway Track & across the foot of Cloggy. Apart from a few bods on Primitive route it was deserted until a geological type came along with his geological hammer in his geological hand, who proceeded to knock geological shit out of Cloggy (Geolly good show!) Back home tomorrow for 6 night shifts (O joy supreme!)
Dave Salter
Aug 15/16th
Hodge and Pete did Piggot's on Cloggy on the Saturday and Erosion Groove on Sunday: Hodge did an epic lob off Kaiser (Just for the trogs!).
August 16th
Having returned from the Alps after 5 weeks, I am now in sort of residence here at the hut, until the money runs out. Went up Cloggy today and did Diglyph & Spilikin - (both good routes) with Lou Brown. I hope to get some good climbing done, at last, in the next few weeks.
George
Monday
Lousy weather - went to see the Beatle film (great).
Aug 19
Bob D and Brian G found themselves in the Llanberis Pass after a hairy incident en route which involved sundry sideways maneuvers to avoid 2 Welsh farmers unexpectedly encountered on a seldom used road. After floating down the pass the weather for once obeyed Brian G's forecast and a decision was made to ascend the Parson's Nose which appeared to (be) coated with less mucus than other crags in the vicinity. The ascent was safely made and the Continuation arete followed accompanied by much 'pleasant' language until the startling view of the Principality was suddenly revealed from the summit of Snowdon. After refreshing ourselves there in a concrete room filled with dripping and steaming tourists. Cwm Beudy Mawr was descended and the day rounded off with fish & chips in the hut.
Bob & Brian
Aug 20th
Lazy day, just festered and fished. George arrived and tales of land and sea exchanged.
Bob
Aug 21st (Friday)
A late start to the Pass, Nea, Phantom Rib, George then did Brant Direct after this returned to hut for nosh.
George & Bob
22nd August 1964
George & Bob Kaisregebirge, Spectre
23rd Aug
We have now completed the 3. Martin and myself did Cenotaph Corner, a very fine route. (1 hour)
George
John Craig & Dave Salter, finding that Cenotaph Corner and Cemetery Gates were occupied, disappeared into the mist & rain and ascended Flying Buttress (diff) (a fine route!)
Cemetery Gates still occupied when we came down so we made a wet return to Wendy's, where the rest of the party had just finished 'noshing'.
25th Aug
I did Ochre Groove today with the 'Bearded Troll' (Van-Dave) - I also did Slape with some other chap (who fell off twice due to a strained arm). "LUVLY"
26th Aug
Boulder Left Edge with a Scot named Robin. Protection: 'Lousey'.
27th
Chris and myself went up to have a look at the 'Thing' and therefore did Cenotaph Corner again, I led.
28th
Waking early this morning and having no plans for climbing. I ate lesurly ? breakfast in a lesely* fashion. Having just washed up I heard the growl of voices and who should arrive but Martin wearning to climb. But I wasn't able to climb until 2pm (dole calls you know). Anyway we did Sickle on the Grochan and Martin trying to second in boots unfortunately fell off the top traverse (Hurrah!). He still had his fingers on a little hold though, so he didn't come completely on the rope. Then we reversed Nea and Martin got soaked. (giggle)
* who's she?
29th Saturday
George and Martin decided to go on a really long mountaineering day for a change and ended up on that remote cliff in Llanberis Pass called Grochan(?) There we spent the best part of 1 Hour hanging in slings 7' from the ground on Surplomb in a state of sheer terror. As George was gripped I thought I had better lead but unfortunately was gripedereder moresowic and even succeeded in fastening another sling but having already used N slings and still only 7' from the ground we retired ignominiously.
Day after yesterday
George & Martin fell out over who should lead Overlapping Wall so George ended up doing it with Pete and Martin ended up doing it with Collin both 1st Class nut removers. Collin* ended up doing a subtle rope maneuver beneath the secondeth overlap owing to conflicting advice from a mysterious voice and Martins.
*Can't spell Colin you blit!
George & Pete sailed up Gryphon in immaculate style. Martin & Frank dithered up Ribstone Crack in dreadful style. We are thinking of taking up yachting.
Martin saw a youth in glasses (horn-rimmed) in distress on Gryphon, (hanging upside down, going blue) so took the rope when youth was freed from rope and trundled up. (Good Samaritan)
Chris, Colin, George (?), Ian, Glen, Jeff did Crackstone Rib in unison.
Glorious weather on Sunday. Pray for good weather on Monday. George & Martin ended up at dusk doing Slape (on that remote cliff in Llanberis Pass)
Martin at top of Cenotaph Corner!
Day after Yesterday
Girdle of Dinas Cromlech
The weather was fine, not a cloud in the sky so we (G.H. & J.M.P.J.) set out for Dinas Cromlech. We spent about ½ an hour hitching, eventually getting a lift to Bont y Cromlech. From here we leshurly (sic) sweated our way up the scree to beneath Parchment Passage, here we donned our nuts, PA's, slings, pitons, hammers and rope to do the Girdle.
M led the first desperate V.D. pitch and collapsed in a nervous wreck at the holly tree on Parchment Passage; G swung gracefully up through the verdure and detritus: from here he clambered down Cobweb Crack to the HAND-traverse, this turned out to be quite straightforward, or so he said as he disappeared gasping to a belay in Pharaoh's Passage.
From here the route wandered in a straightforward [climbing wise] but devious [route wise] manner across Pharaoh's Wall, Holly Buttress and Dives, ending up on a stance on Left Arete at the top of the Forest.
G launched himself onto Left Wall looking frantically for an almost non-existent ledge but found a jug instead, after an irreversible move to the Left Wall arete he merrily nutted his way to the spike, also doing one or two beautifully executed free moves on the way. After a great gulp he fixed a runner on a spike (a grotty hemp one 2nd class) and yelled for tension as he moved over to the fault. With judicious use of a few immaculately placed slings he swung across into Cenotaph Corner and ascended blithely to a constriction and belted in three pegs , over a seemingly interminable time (about 10 mins) and ensconced himself in slings.
By this time M was shivering with {cold/anticipation/fear/dread} but soon knocked out his belay piton and scrabbled onto the wrong start and promptly got gripped and so retreated. The correct line proved more amenable and he soon swung was gaily swinging up G's immaculately placed nuts. Having reached the tension sling he rested (in peace?) (No). From here he thought it would be a good idea to remove the tension sling and use slings to move across L.W. this met with some opposition from G but he did it anyway, avoiding the fate of mashing himself by pendulum-ing into the Corner, he eventually made it (praise be to Allah).
As he swarmed up past his sitting partner he gracefully booted his partner's earhole and banged his head soundly against Left Wall (groan from G)(Black-out Coma).
Having used G's foot, head, and various other parts of his anatomy for foot holds M eventually placed a runner around the chockstone at the top of the crack. Descending gracefully on tension he pushed himself on to Right Wall promptly returning, disheartened etc. Three times he tried and three times he flopped, eventually hanging head down and clawing across on minute pockets and reached a miniscule spike. Here he placed a sling and STOOD in it (Sigh!). Having stood in another sling he stepped onto the spacious (!) ledge on top of the Gates. M manufactured a reasonable web of slings around spikes, pinnacles, pitons and daisy heads. G launched himself onto Right Wall. Hanging elegantly on tension on white he half scrabbled, half fell and half was pulled by red to the first sling (Sigh Sigh). From here he traversed in traditional G.H. style to the web.
After a rest on the vast platform he disappeared in the general direction of a non-existent tree on Ivy Sep. but alas Ivy Sep was occupied so half an hour was spent by all, sunning themselves (curse).
From here the route traverses across great heaps of tottering grot to the grass ledge on Jericho Wall from there pitches 6, 7, and 8 of Horseman's Route lead to the summit (very pleasant). By this time (G & M)'s dogs were howling so they sunned them on top for a few seconds (673) then having ensured that Dog's Bod and friend (!) would remove the sling from the Corner descended with relief to their boots. A great, marvelous etc route.
Five hours in toto
J.M.P.Jones George Homer
September 1964
Thursday 3rd September
Went up to Clogg' today with a chap named Chris. We had a look at Vember, but the first crack was dripping, so we walked round and did Llithrig after spending an age in the middle of the rope move.
Tuesday 8th September
Weather not too good.
Did Old Holborn on the Wastad (not bad).
Monday - Thursday
Lousey weather went to see '55 Days at Peking' with Harris and two women. Thursday: going down to Tremadoc and then home and back to - gulp - WORK (UGH).
The End
Thursday
An Indian Summer - made the most of it by going up to Craig yr Ysfa and doing Mur y Niwl and Pinnacle Wall with Bob. Beautiful day and good climbing. Alas the weather has changed again - there's a gale blowing now. Blast!
Saturday & Sunday
Work Meet: In spite of early morning rain storms some outdoor work was done by some people. The soakaway pit was dug for the sink water drain, and duly refilled with stones (It may be considered of interest that during all the time of this work no water managed the arduous journey from the sing to the pit). The gutters were painted with gloss, and the windows a second coat of white. A new construction has been erected at the back of the cottage at great labour and expense which is really too magnificent to share the sane name as its predecessors.
The upstairs rooms were scrubbed out and the kitchen whitewashed and the old grate removed and built in.
I am also assured by reliable witnesses that that the Ladies toilet is now more tastefully decorated (taking into consideration its purpose) than any other single room in Caer Fran.
Sunday 28th Sept
Rode up Capel Goch Road at about 3mph. Suddenly(?) found the way barred by a gate (thinks - I've been here before). With engine howling & clutch slipping something 'orrible this gate was negotiated without incident. Then proceeded to waltz up the track to Caer Fran. Found Nick painting living room floor. Watched him finish it then we went down to Wendy's for tea after which he pushed off home. After doing some shopping, collapsed on grass at back & festered for rest of afternoon. Had been up since 5pm yesterday (night shift). However, have been taken off shift work (prepared sacrificial offerings on altar fire (calor gas), then ate them for dinner). Yippee.
Tuesday
Glorious weather with real sun. Wandered off in direction of Snowdon. Very successful anti-peak-bagging day. Skirted base of Moel Eilio, Moel Cynghorion, etc. Across Col Cloggy to Halfway House after sunbathing by lake. Found Halfway House closed. After unsuccessful attempts to milk sheep, and dig a well, crawled down to Wendy's for tea, and tea, and tea.
John (the ex shepherd) came up to inspect his brown cow (the one with the Beatle haircut). Spent pleasant (?) 10 minutes helping him to heard it and the black cow & calf into the barn. One of his techniques, apparently, is to grab it by the nose and with the free hand around its neck, shove it over on its side. He then sits on the cow's head and inspects it at his leisure. I didn't see this as I was having a staring match with the black cow. (PS The cow kicked him).
He says that there is going to be a big bang at the quarry at about 4pm Saturday, on the main face opposite the hut. He says 1½ tons of explosive are to be used. They're not sure what will happen!
Dave Salter
October 1964
3rd October
Cwm Idwal - lovely day.
Girdle of East Wall Martin and George, Colin and Glen
Rake End Chimney Chris, Brian and Gordon
Javelin Buttress Colin, Pete and Glen
10th October 1964
Set out in epic conditions to do the Horseshoe! (A true mountaineer). Having negotiated Crib Goch in 6" snow stood on Ye Summittee y Snowdonia. A first ascent by me! Arrived back at P y P v tired and wet!
JMP
Sat
George & Martin climbed the gates.
Bob & Lou Brown climbed the Sep with interesting artificial aids! (and Lou & George climbed Cobweb Crack) sorry, nearly forgot.
RD - Robert Dukeson, JMP - Martin Jones, X - George Homer, LB - Lewis Brown
Sunday - 25th October 1964
Weather mild, autumnal and dark, but some sunshine. We went to Tremadoc but of course never arrived, because an attempt was made to unearth Cañon Rib and in fact some lichenous rock was ascended by Glen - a great effort - but to no avail since it wasn't the climb.
No more continuous rock was seen so we descended to the path passing the National Trust which said "No Climbing"! The car was then driven into Cwm Silyn and the Great Slab, as usual dripping with moisture was climbed by the Ordinary Route. Walked via the ridge to the car which was parked at the "Dangerous Explosives" notice. Good sunset, views of Wicklow Mountains in Eire.
G Hirons Ian Wright
Marian(?) Elliott Moira Williams
Brian Grahl
November 1964
Sat Nov 1st
Colin - George - Martin Phantom Rib
Sun
George - Martin The Nib
14th Nov
Today Martin, Glen and George (Mountaineers) Extraordinary, Mountaineered. (lucid)
December 1964
13th December
Ray Harold brought his night school class out. As usual the weather was awful and only Martin and Nick Jones had the courage to venture out on Saturday. The managed to swim up the Devil's Kitchen. Everyone went round to the Milestone on Sunday except Sandy, Martin and Pete. Sandy managed to do a whole term's Law revision while M & P had a profitable time on Main Wall (2 krabs, 1 peg and 1 sling thieved!).
27th Dec 1964
Snow has arrived at last! M & G went up Main Wall and retired.
Glen & Kay went up Parson's Nose, Glen contracted frost bite (much admired).
Nick, Chris, Pete and Colin went up to the Gambit and came back just ahead of M & G.
Sylvia, Buff, Dave and canine companion ascended Snowdon by the Railway Track, 409 pitons, 2009 pegs, 2 ??. Marvelous weather but cold, much skin was lost on freezing crabs.
28th Dec (Wed)
The 4 set off from Caer Fran with great hopes of two (Sylvia & Nick) doing the Horseshoe and me & Pete doing Spectre. Alas Pete, Nick and Sylvia disappeared in the direction of Bangor, whilst M ascended Wrinkle in snowstorm and Spiral Stairs (weather steadily improving) Glyder Fawr back to P y P.
Bangor is absolutely dead on Wednesdays, even the libraries are closed. So let this be a warning to potential festerers.
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