Jan 8th 1963


Honeymoon visit by Ray and Buff - ie Mr & Mrs Harold

Snow conditions not ideal but enjoyable, despite very cold strong wind.

Called at hut on route for Cloggy - to pay our respects - nothing more.


January 12th/13th 1963


The Snowdon Horseshoe we noticed as certain people were strolling to some outlandish building, was in perfect condition for a moonlight stroll (led at a red hot pace by a Mr Stewart). We left for the start at about 9.30pm Saturday arrived at the Pen y Pass at about 9.40pm the moonlight on the snow was so bright it was casting our shadows on the snow and ice, there was even a sparkling and crackling of moonbeams as we walked our way up to fairyland. Crib Goch, Crib y Ddysgl and Snowdon soon were bagged by six members of this courageous band. The iced up snow plastered on the rock made wonderful shapes and patterns to gladden our tired and weary eyes. We descended from Snowdon after three biscuits each (and 2 chimney pots) at a great pace and made our way up Lliwedd. The moon at this time was moving and so rapid progress had to be made not to descend into complete darkness. We descended Lliwedd in semi darkness and a good descent it was and all arrived safely back at the hut and thanks to other people staying here we were left some hot water some tea, sugar, milk and a cheese snack. Thanks folks and so to bed.

The members of this intrepid and courageous team were the great

A Stewart, Nick Jones, Ian Hildich, Chris Shannon, Geo. Homer, Bob Dukeson.


Annual Dinner Meet Jan 18/20


A great dinner - 50 sat down to a fine meal well served.

The accommodation problem was solved by farming out undesirables to Ynys Ettws and the London MC hut. Two who were camping didn't - they spent the night in a van at Conway - nits!!

The weather added a spice to the weekend - although it prevented any serious climbing (as though anyone had any intention). The seventeen at Cae'r Fran suffered the cold and snow bravely and carried water from the stream for all purposes except washing.

A party went into Cwm Glas, two suffered for their temerity - Val tumbled down a gully despite the heroic effort of Nick, and Ray nosedived on the icy surface of the lake suffering a lacerated forehead. The two who should have camped claimed an ascent of Crib Goch - no comment! Others climbed Y Garn whilst the remainder found excuses including bad driving conditions. *

A gallop up and down Moel Eilio on Sunday removed the vapors brought on by excess the previous evening and the few brave souls who performed this feat at least had a feeling of moral superiority over the other lazy...


All in all a most enjoyable weekend - no doubt the treasurer has other opinions.

F A Smith

PS Sunday - Party at Ynys Ettws did gully climb between Wastad and Cromlech. JB




March 1963



29th March Sat


Weather overcast and windy. Ray & Buff came out on Saturday morning but didn't do very much. A tramp up to Cloggy via the tourist track through deep snow was the total activity of the day. Cloggy looked repulsive - black, wet and overhanging, swirling in mist. As we came down the first tourists of the season were met tramping up into the snowline (Halfway House ) wearing casual suede shoes. Clock went on 12.00am.


30th Sunday


The day dawned bright and beautiful. On the whole it was as warm as any day last summer, except that the ridges and tops were white with snow. (Almost Alpine effect). The first routes of the season were put up on the three cliffs - Crackstone Rib and Wrinkle - then a half hour fester in the sun. This was followed by a somewhat thrutchy (headjams) ascent of Shadow Wall, then a more dignified climb up Trilon.

An extremely pleasant weekend.


March 31st


Val, Joan, Jack, John and the dog ran the gauntlet of irate Vaynol tenants and managed to locate one footpath through the 'Private Land', 'Trespassers will be Prosecuted' no-mans-land of the Nantle Valley to do a most enjoyable ridge walk. Views of the snow capped hills were glorious and the skies gave a real Alpine feeling.



April 1963



Easter 12th April 1963

After an unsuccessful journey to Tremadoc Rocks to find them crowded with seasonal climbers we returned to the Aberglaslyn Pass. After trying to ford the river, (Peter having the misfortune to fall in) we used a bridge a hundred yards or so down stream. Cutting our way through the undergrowth, we arrived at the foot of CaƱyon Rib.

The rib is clean and sharp and the holds well defined. Out of the seven pitches of the 235ft of climb the fourth and sixth pitches were the most interesting. On the fourth pitch you traverse to the right along a slanting shelf, then steeply up the sharp edge to a small stance. On the sixth pitch a vertical wall forms the left side of the rib. You begin on the left and work back towards the right following a line of holds to a pulpit stance, followed by an awkward step to the left. Weather sunny, the pass was sheltered from the fresh wind.

Brian L Knox, Chris Shannon, Pete Smith, Glen Hirons.


Easter April 12th


Ray and Buff and Nick at Caer Fran decided to have a walky type day. The walk turned out to be the Snowdon summit via Moel Eilio. There was still a considerable amount of snow on the higher slopes with large drifts over parts of the railway track. It was very clear on the summit (for the first time) with heavy cloud at a higher altitude. Tourists were out in force even though the train was only going as far as the Halfway House, and the cafe at the top was still closed. It may be of interest that the Halfway House is now open and is still serving homemade lemonade.

The rest of the weekend was wet and disappointing - activities were mainly cooking meals and recovering after them. Nick and Glen were woodcarving (good until it got broken). Fred, Bett and family came up for Sat evening and gave us a slide show of climbs in Wales, Lakes and Alps, a nice change.

On Monday with Ray wielding a whip the hut was given a good clean up and looks a lot better for it.

A more restful weekend than had been anticipated.


April 21st - 26th "The Tramps" (Climbing club of the Royal Grammar School, Clitheroe)


We arrived on Sunday afternoon in pouring rain, burst in upon Ray and Buff (who took things quite calmly) drove them out and brought mountains of luggage in. We then settled down for the end of the rain which came very soon. On Monday we took the boys over Moel Siabod mainly for the views of what they were to climb later and were surprised to find that we actually could see Snowdon etc. Tuesday was spent on the Horseshoe together with several other school parties, and although we found it tedious there was no doubt that the boys enjoyed it. Wednesday was a rest day for most, a few of us strolling on the hills around Llyn Crafnant - in the rain. Thursday was the greatest success, a beautiful day on which we went over Tryfan by the N. Ridge over the Bristly, the Glyders, and down by the Devil's Kitchen & Idwal. We may hold the record for the only boy to have dived from Adam to Eve (and survived). Few of the boys had been to Snowdonia before and many have had little mountain experience, but we had no blisters and very few muscular complaints; all enjoyed staying at Caer Fran although it was clearly full to capacity.

Jim Grindle

    Jim Grindle GJ Metcalf I Smith

    DEC Green RD Scott G Sutcliffe

    JC Alexander J Boothman JM Waddington

    G Durling WC Arthur RT Ward

    D Robinson PS Lidsey AR Winning

    R Tattersall M Perkins CC Wood

    EJ Chadwick RH Robbs D Nuttall

    FJ Honeywell MC Shaw KN Veever


April 20th & 21st


Ray and Buff arrived out on a fairly reasonable Friday night and were hopeful for a dry weekend. Saturday dawned horribly, wet and cloudy - divining a brighter spell both, in a moment of madness, went round to Lliwedd and did a desperate Diff in thick cloud. The climb was 'Route 2', wet, greasy & more like Severe.

Sunday was dry but very windy, but the bug had bitten and Cracks on Dinas Mot was tackled and climbed. Just when there were thoughts of The Girdle, the rains came down. Beating a hasty but soaking retreat, came across a lilo in the river, retrieved it, had a look for the tent to go with it but unfortunately did not find it.

Can't grumble though.


April 27th & 28th Ray & Buff


Sat dawned reasonable for a change, and spurred on a feeling of activity. Main Wall (a monthly climb) was soon climbed, then across to the Mot to do Western Slabs. At this point the weather deteriorated & by the time the climb was finished it was starting to rain.

Sunday was not so good but together with a gallant group of daredevils a once in a lifetime ascent was made up Black Cleft. It was black, wet & greasy but a good thrutchy laugh (if you like that sort of thing). Everyone returned to the hut soaked but jubilant.

Pres. Jack, Tres. Albert, Alan, Jill, John C & John B struggled. Val wisely decided to go for a walk & was the only one to remain nearly dry.




May 1963



May 17th/18th

Working party - 10 members worked very hard indeed to achieve a considerable amount of success. The kitchen was stripped of plaster, paint, nails and anything else surplus and a fine job of rendering with cement/sand mix followed by a coat of cementex gave a new look to the kitchen. Other jobs - stove installed, tank lagged, floors painted, woodwork painted, glazing, and drains cleared amongst other minor tasks.

One of the more successful party do's - Jack catered extremely well.


May 25th/26th Wonderful weather


Saturday


    Craig y Bera Angels Pavement Ray, Buff, Colin York, Fred, Elwyn Morgan

    Cwm Silyn Right hand Route Ray, Buff Left Hand Route Fred, Colin, Elwyn


Sunday


    Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

    Primitive Route Colin & Elwyn

    Bow Shaped Slab Ray & Buff


Monday


    Carreg Wastad Unicorn Ray & Buff

    Lion Ray. Buff defeated alone*

*(Due to water damage to the log book the end of this entry is not clear and so may be even more innacurate than usual. Ed.)


Whit May / June 2

Saturday


    Llech Ddu. Carneddu. Central Route

A very fine climb. Steep and very exposed. The rock did not seem as sound as claimed.

Dry & Sunny Ray & Buff



June 1963



June 9th Sunday


    Dinas Mot. Direct Route. Western Slabs. West Rib.

A fine sunny day

Ray & Buff

This space reserved


June 22nd


David Robinson (Guest), Jim Murray. Ascent of "Great Gully" descent of "Amphitheatre Buttress" Craig yr Ysfa, Carnedd Llewelyn.


June 23rd


"Tennis Shoe" at Idwal under threatening skies which delayed the deluge until "Grey Rib" on Glyder Fawr had been started. In greasy conditions a retreat was made from the last ten feet. It's desperate.


June 23rd


Devil's Descent (Solo) Massively cairned by quarried stones.

Following the efforts of many previous parties (male), author effected difficult descent towards the antipodes. Route direct. Starting from hill refuge (with fire-proof door) head ten yards W. before beginning route. Rock very firm, with little purchase. Vibrams advised for all succeding parties. Not to be attempted in ice, snow, hail or sleet. (Exposure could be dangerous.) Nevertheless this is a route I would recommend all visiting parties to follow!!!!

J Sands


24 June

Having taken the recommendations of the previous author to follow the Devils Descent we took this as given, but encountered a great deal of difficulty in some form of mist and fog and found the compass bearings to be different to those recommended. I would suggest that a survey be made of the region.

Bob Powell


26 June

Having been at Caer Fran for three days and yet to see the bottom of the field from the front door we decided to go by car and have a crack at the Watkins Track (with pram) but alas the weather on that side of Snowdon was no better raining cats and dogs web feet and feathers 31/2" in 21/2 days wants some beating. So we carried on to Beddgelert, Rhyd Ddu past the Snowdon ranger still swimming (Breast stroke) to Waunfawr. There we started overland via unclassified roads and untarred paths where we saw an old horse-drawn funeral coach (see Dodge City) passing the foot of the Devils Descent and the grave of some old faithfuls we found ourselves smack on course for Caer Fran, coming over the saddle of Moel Eilio and Pen y Bwlch via Bwlch y Groes where the view of the Pass was amazing, through two more gates and we were at the Chester Clubs hut above Caer Fran.

Three of the Powells


29 June

5 days here and 5 days hard rain.

Bols


29th - 30th June

Rain came down in sheets. Those who braved the elements (Jim and Val) came home dry. Those who waited for the rain to go off before venturing out (Mike, John, Roy) came back wet. Ha - Ha!! Others (Jack, Albert, Dave) were persuaded by Fred to put in a bit of work on the hut. Mugs! (Full of tea though!)

Sunday weather no more inviting but we're off to them-there mountains in spite of the water.



JULY 1963



Mon July 1st Dave Salter - Holiday (one of them)

Caer Fran 'Trog' - Moel Eilio, Foel Gron, Foel Goch, Moel Cyngorion, Snowdon Summit, Crib y Ddysgl, (diversion to foot of Cloggy to gaze in awe, and dip burning feet in lake!), Halfway House, Llanberis and back to Caer Fran. Cloudy but dry.


Tues 2nd

Over to Glyders, down Bristly Ridge and Cwm Bochlwyd to Ogwen (what a way just for a cup of tea!) Back via Devil's Kitchen track to Nant Peris (Vaynol Arms). Was soaked by a torrential thunderstorm on last lap from Llanberis to Caer Fran.


Wed 3rd

Weather uncertain - painted hall and stairs as requested.


Thurs 4th

Up Snowdon via Llechog and Bwlch Main. Heavy showers. Sheep shearers sheared today. Sheep sheem rather Shorry for themshelves (try saying that quickly!).


Frid 5th

Moel Eilio!


Sat 6th

A great mob of townies shattered the peace of the hut during the course of the afternoon (Ray & Buff arrived 7am after a desperate trip from Liverpool, & promptly went to bed!)


Sun 7th

John Baker and Jim Murray arose at an ungodly hour and had departed by 8am for a desperate trog. Everyone else was up a little later!

Quite a pleasant day, sunshine for a change. Thanks for the milk everyone.

Peace once more!


Mon 8th

Cooler, visibility good below the layer of cloud which was down to about 3000ft. Up to Snowdon summit, down over Lliwedd to Llyn Llydaw, then up Crib Goch and over Crib y Ddysgl to Snowdon summit. Back to Caer Fran over tourist track. Large number of tourists asking Which was Snowdon? How much further? Is there an easier way? (yes, up Cloggy and down Lliwedd!) etc.


Tues 9th

Miserable day, low cloud, rain etc. Gave concrete floors a coat of waterglass (occasional interruptions by a rather persistent sheep which was driven off by waving of brush, throwing of projectiles and shouts of "Rhubarb"!). Then down to Wendy's for lunch. Returned with large bag of sweets, fresh stock of "fags", and newspaper. Spent evening reading newspaper, eating sweets, smoking & supping tea.


Wed 10th

End of holiday. Off home to pack for next one starting Saturday. Arolla here I come!

Dave Salter

You lucky bugger


Sunday June 7th

Girdle of East Wall Idwal Slabs. 500ft severe in 11/2 hours in spite of Buff in her bendy boots. New pair requested. Ray not yet coughed up.

Ray & Buff



July 1963



13th July

Early rain persuaded party to start late. A visit to Snowdon railway station produced such severe shock the party followed the sheep over Crib Goch to Snowdon summit, where sun was met. The horseshoe was completed for luck in the most refreshing summer conditions with good views.

On return to Pen y Pass the two members of the party forcibly prevented one madman living up to his name - ie Trotingman - by returning him to Caer Fran instead of driving him round to Cnicht.

B Piercy, D Coker, M H Trotman


14th July

Reconnaissance and weather at Cnicht.

B Piercy, D Coker, M H Trotman


Back to July 7th

Jim Murray and John Baker didn't even wait to say good morning to everyone before setting off for Idwal where they arrived even before Mervyn's was open, worse luck. The writer was dragged, still half asleep, up Tennis Shoe and it took the mantleshelf on Javelin Gully to shock him into full wakefulness. Then followed a little Alpine rope practice up Cneifion Arete, and a wander over Glyder Fach in the mist. The parties paths diverged at the bottom of Bristly Ridge where JB decided to drop down to see if Mervyn's was open yet & JM continued to take in Tryfan summit. Rapid motorcycle run back to Rouabon took in Horseshoe Pass and International Eisteddfod.

Enjoyable day.

JB


Saturday July 13th

On a fine day Colin Jones and John Baker arrived in the Pass in an ambitious mood, but after several hours spent in queues and several hundred fags smoked while waiting, only Spiral Stairs and The Wrinkle were done before the pubs opened.

JB


Sunday July 14th

Wet.

JB


July 20

    Bochlwyd Buttress - Wall Climb

    Glyder Fach - Direct Route with

    Gibson's Chimney.

Assisting with rescue for rest of day.


July 21

    Clogwyn y Grochan - Phantom Rib

    Kaisergebirge Wall

Ray & Buff

And yet another Pass Hard is born!


July 21st

    Dinas Mot - The Cracks

    Parson's Nose Snowdon Alan S Brian K


July 28th

The President led the 4,684,821st All British attempt on the Amphitheatre Buttress. Despite the digressions of one member who insisted on searching for bilberries the climb was completed without accident although at one point the route became so hard that belay gloves and wire slings were called for. The climb finished in the "Vaynol Arms" where the scenery was admired by all.


July 29th

An attempt was made to fine the elusive Central Arete on Glyder Fawr. Jack and Albert made a frontal assault attacking from the lake while Brian K and Roy attempted an out-flanking movement by carefully creeping up Hope and craftily traversing across. Despite all these reconnaissance's nobody even saw the climb so a short scramble had to suffice.



August 1963



August 3

An extremely close humid day. Much energy and perspiration had been expended long before we reached the foot of Great Slab in Cwm Silyn where despite the lack of guidebook or previous knowledge the Ordinary Route was climbed led by Pete Smith with Brian K, Brian G, and Dave S following. Despite the impending gloom the threatened thunderstorm never materialised and the rain held off until we finished the climb. Unfortunately the splendid views which I am informed can be enjoyed from the summit were not available - the entire Principality being enshrouded in a Van Dyke brown mist. Nevertheless, this being our first visit to the area we considered it to be a first class route with good situations and well worth repeating. On the way down the rain began in earnest and Dave S and Brian G realising that they could be drenched to the skin long before they reached the road, had a most refreshing swim in the lower of the two Llyns while people passing along the track above were doubting their sanity. The remainder of the descent was made while wearing bathing trunks and anoraks only rather to the surprise of passing tourists when civilisation was reached.

XX


August 4Th

Despite Glen's driving, the party (Ray, Buff, Brian K, Brian G, Dave, Nick, Glen, Peter and Roy) assembled at Trevor. After several trial climbs on the sea cliffs it was decided to have a look at the left tower. Despite the loose rock a safe ascent was made and the party foregathered at the top of the climb. A very pleasant time was then had by all exploring the quarry and several hard ascents were nearly done by some of the party. A gentle stroll back completed an excellent day.


August 5th

    Carreg Wastad - Skylon, Shadow Wall

Ray, Buff, Roy.


August 8th - 15th

Weather was very mixed but managed to get out most days. Our biggest walk - a night circuit of the Snowdon Horseshoe - was spoilt somewhat by the lack of moon. However, nobody was killed. Wednesday 14th was the best day from the point of view of weather, Ireland and the Isle of Man could both be seen from Moel Eilio. Also seen on Wednesday - six trains en route up and down Snowdon. It must have been choc-a-bloc on top. Taken all round a most enjoyable and restful week.

Roy & Beryl


August 16th - 18th

Early start on Horseshoe - no people or rain 'til the end. Guests on first walk in Wales v. impressed by hills but not by pseudo-Welsh singing in the bars. Weather uncertain Sunday.

A Davis, R. Davis Jim Grindle.


August 16th - 18th

Avalanche, Red Wall and Terminal Arete (Buff, Ray and Colin)

Variations on Central Chimney, Roof Route and Route II followed by the inevitable Red Wall and Longland's Continuation.

(Chris, Glen, Pete)



September 1963



Friday 13th Sept 63

George and Bob returned from Ireland after an exciting time on Tuesday and came out to Wales Thursday and they met their old buddy Nick Halls who is a member of the Club they decided to sleep the night under their respective boulders and use Hut on Friday night. Nick led us on Friday up Ivy Sepulchre and then Dives and with the Better Things variation George led through on Dives and I am hoping for better things. (Bob)

Bob, Nick & George


Sat 14th Sept 63

After a late start Nick George Bob went to "Cloggy" and had a great day doing Piggot's a fine route (We recommend)

Bob. Nick. George.


Sept 13 - 15

Drummond's Meet

Superb fine weather makes anything bearable.* (Even Fred)

On

Saturday all on Central Arete - Upper Cliff of Glyder Fawr - over Glyder and down Gribbin.

Sunday All to Cwm Silyn - Wonderful!!

    Ordinary (varied) by J.D., A.S., J.B., D.S., B.K., I.H., F.A.S., R.E., C.J.

    Left Edge Route F.A.S./R.E., & J.B. C.J.

A meet of the first quality in all respects - enjoyed by all including the old men.

(* Even climbing)

Fred


Sept 14-15

Saturday

Buff, Ray, Chris and Pete did the Direct on the Mot followed by the Gambit.


Sunday

Ray, Buffy, Chris and Pete and myself stumbled up to Cloggy in a bath of sweat (not recommended) and having looked at the face, rushed into the deepest crack we could find, which happened to be Curving Crack. After three hours many swear words and a loss of much energy, the ascent party crawled out at the top.

We then smoked and slept in the sun, by the lake.

A good day

Nick


Sept 16

Dinas Mot - The Cracks, Dave S and Pete S


Sept 19

Crib Goch, Crib y Ddysgl, Snowdon followed by various meanderings around the Far West Buttress of Cloggy

Dave, Ian & Pete


Sept 22, 1963

Fred, Alan, Bob, Joyce, and George. Went in the green limousine to Cwm Silyn and five routes fell he, he, they were Bob & George done Kircuses (sic) and Fred and Alan did Upper Slab and then the two intrepid Men of Integrity took the female type namely Joyce up the treacherous Left Edge Route she was very brave and gigled (sic) all the way . Ogof Direct did not go for Bob & George we were tired came back recklessly in the Green Bus.

Robert Charles Dukeson (ZO)MBE


Sept 28th 1963

Went to Main Wall and climbed it. Then walked over to Lliwedd via Parson's Nose. Did Avalanche - Red Wall - Longland's Continuation. Last pitch in dark.

Found it desperate personally.

I think that we both wish we were fitter.

George, Nick.


28th - 29th September 1963

An ascent of Gashed Crag by Albert & Jack, Allan & Val, and of 1st Pinnacle Rib by Dave & Brian.

Jacks comment ???? Allan's comment ? Albert's comment ????? Val's comment "They wouldn't teach me the right words to say!"

The parties met with difficulty above the snow line and encountered thick mist, however, after using 2 pitons the parties succeeded in reaching the top of Munich!!



October 1963



5 - 6th October 1963

Dave Robinson, Jed Stains, Pearl Stains, Jim Murray after rashly suggesting the project as long ago as July (when October seemed far distant) D.R. and J.A. found themselves committed to attempting the 3000's. Unfortunately at 4 am on Saturday 5th, the weather was favorable and the assault party was urged forward upward and onward. (They needed some urging too!) After being driven to Pen y Pass by Ted the route taken by the reluctant rovers was as follows:

    Pen y Pass depart 5.00am

    Crib Goch 6.25

    Crib y Ddysgl 7.20

    Snowdon 7.35

    Over Llechog Ridge at 602573 to -

    Nant Peris 8.40

    A goodly breakfast was here produced by Ted, Pearl having exercised the ladies' privilege of wisely staying abed.

    Nant Peris depart 9.10

    Elidir Fawr 10.55

    Y Garn 11.55

    Llyn y Cwm 12.15

    Glyder Fawr 12.50

    Glyder Fach 1.30

    Bwlch Tryfan 1.50

    Via screes on right (in descent) of Bristly

    Tryfan 2.25

    Ogwen 3.0pm

The weather 'til now consisted of short rain, hail, sleet showers and low thick clouds but approaching Ogwen a flood developed which washed all hopes (or fears?) of further progress. The trip was at this point abandoned thankfully by J.M. & D.R. who both however claimed(?) to be fit and good yet for a dozen or more peaks before dinner. Unfortunately the validity of their claim was not tested.


5/6 Oct

Chris came out by motorcycle on Saturday & Glen & Nick (J) by thumb & did nothing but make their dinner.


11 Oct - 14th

Hitched up on Thursday night could not make Capel & spent the night with an old farmer near Cerig y Didian who was a National Socialist, found some of Mosely's Political Broadsheets pretty interesting so slept on them on Friday night.

Friday. Helped farmer make a window through the wall of his sitting room to earn my breakfast and cleared a tree of damsons for my dinner.

Hitched to Llanberis and waited for George, almost dying of exposure on doorstep of Caer Fran. Ended up sleeping in the barn. George did not arrive.

Saturday. Walked to Llanberis to find somebody to climb with, met a bearded troll and an atomic physicist, never met them before, and the 20th century team attacked Ribstone Crack, led by the surveyor of the party. The team then crept up on Slape and managed to get the bearded troll up the first pitch before it awoke to its danger. After a spirited ascent to the beginning of the traverse, the Physicist was firmly repulsed and a quick descent followed. The surveyor then girding about his loins and commending his sole (sic) to heaven, leapt at the face with gnashing teeth, the dreaded Slape at first repulsed , allowed him to ascend to the first belay. But now the climb was fighting mad and 25 attempts were needed at the wall pitch before success was achieved. Then Slape feeling itself beaten, allowed us to get off its back with only slight trouble.

Met George at the bottom of Grochan and went to attack Yellow Groove on Craig Ddu. The docility of this climb was not at first apparent, but George's spirited ascent met with immediate success, his second, however, ascended slowly with a troubled heart (Having forgotten the pain of the experience he now recommends it).

Returned to hut, and met Ray, Buff, Chris, Nick, Glen


Sunday

Walked to Llanberis, hitched to Pass, had morning coffee with friends, but overstayed our welcome and had our second cup thrown at us.

Sticky with coffee an ascent of Babel was made, the climb gentle at first bared its claws on the second pitch. (A pleasant hardish route, recommended). The team, George Glen & Nick H arriving at the summit saw some gaily coloured Mountain Maidens disporting themselves on Drws y Gwynt and so rushed across and climbed Little Sepulchre. (Good hand jamming crack, highly recommended). And George led an unnamed crack higher up (hand jams, recommended if you can find it), exceedingly well, stimulated to his effort by the hero-worshiping gaily coloured Mountain Maidens, no doubt!!!

Being unable to obtain a lift we were forced to walk back to Caer Fran.

Not a bad weekend, as you can guess by the preceding alcoholic drivel.

Nick H


19/20 Oct

    Phantom Rib George and Pete

    Ribstone Crack George & Pete

    Trilon Pete & Mike


25th/26th Oct

Jim Grindle, D Green, B Mc Donald Resting before first all-nocturnal (24 hr ascent of Snowdon - Sc Pike - B Nevis.

[July 5th 1964 - We made it despite extensive roadside repairs on hired wreck]


26th/27th Oct

Western Slabs on the Mot:

Time 4½ hrs

Leaders: Glen Hirons, George Homer, Pete Smith, Long-suffering second - Chris Shannon.


26th/27th Oct

J Murray, D. Salter, Clive Bromelow.

Central Chimney Red Wall Longland's Direct

(Didn't flog over Snowdon summit)


Sun

    J Murray, A Stewart Mur y Niwl

    J Murray, A Stewart, Clive Pinnacle Wall


Sat

Alan J Craig, Geoff Lloyd, Ian Hilditch Alphabet Slabs & Chasm


Sun

A shower did the Amphitheatre Buttress.

God bless you all.



November 1963



Space for the Tigers. Homer & CE - ?

Pete, Glen, Chris and George went round to the Gribbin and did Pinnacle Route and Flake Crack (goes ok without tree) in parties of 2 (Glen-Pete) - (Chris-George). The party then did Nee Langly a good route.

Checked by GH

Passed by PS


Sat

*Maestros

Glen & Pete* failed to do Oxo "blast it"

**Lies you ape

Nick & Chris Bob & George succeeded with the aid of P.A.'s pegs** and the like.

We are still the better climbers. Ho-Ho-Ho very funny.

Glen & Pete


16th/17th

*stinks

Pete* and Glen sort of did Scrambler's Gate

George** did Hope with somebody. Lousy stinking weather.

**Useless, hopeless nit!


30th November

This morning, we awoke to the sound of the gay gabble of Ray's class. After this mob left we, being: Nick, Bob & George, got up had breakfast and went and did Petite Fleur and then we did Cracked Wall. A cold but dry and clear day. Goodnight.

Bob Nick George