January 1961
Jan 14 1961
It has been said that in certain inclement conditions, the British Alps in winter situated in the north-western corner of the Principality of Wales, resemble their Swiss counterparts. It was, therefore, with this in mind that a party of four, namely H.R.Drummond, W.Weaver, Catherine Grahl and B.H.Grahl assembled at Pen y Pass when the sun was at its zenith intent on an ascent of the mountains of Eyra. 1½ hours later the seagulls on the summit of Crib Goch were having their repast from our meal which we thankfully consumed after surmounting some perilous ice covered slopes.. Before stretched the continuation of our route "The frosted heights of Arvon glittered on all sides". So suitably armed with climbing irons and general mountaineering impedimenta we set forth again, successfully traversing the knife edge of Crib Goch which was well mantled with snow and ice. This accomplished we continued over the frozen steps of Crib y Ddysgl where we gingerly picked our way over ridges with horrifying drops into stygian depths on either side. The upper part of this ascent consisted of a thin blade of frozen snow, truncated at its top by the feet of earlier mountaineers. A descent was made to the tramway drifted over by several feet of snow which led in a while to the summit of the highest eminence in the Principality where we "comforted ourselves with the colde winde". The view, "rosy with the setting sun" was most comprehensively satisfying. Alas, all too soon, we had to make our preparations for the descent and so with our axes flying like flails dislodging countless snow chippings we descended the railway which at several places was glazed completely with angled ice. However we safely reached a small village situated at the termination of this travail where a vehicle swiftly conveyed us to the hostelry where our companions were patiently passing away the time, before sitting down to a dinner held once a year. A most excellent conclusion to a satisfying and worthwhile day!
The climb starts on the Great Terrace of the East Buttress. Shallow gully terminates the right (west) end of the Great Terrace; left of the gully is a tall steep rib of rock, which is the first feature east of the gully. The left flank of the rib is a leaning, narrow, vertically furrowed slab, the base of which is formed of ??? curled rock formations, overhanging at the base. The climb starts here, at the far west end of the terrace.
1 100ft Start up the slab, it is easier to start extreme right and step to the left onto the slab after a few feet. Proceed straight up on small, doubtful holds, gradually moving right until at about 40ft a good handhold enables one to gain the rib crest. Now proceed straight up the rib, keeping as much to the left as possible, gradually going more artificial. Pass a stance at 80ft (it is prefer to carry on) overcome an easy sloping mantleshelf and on to a good stance and belay.
The first 40ft demand care as the rock is of a doubtful nature, but with care it can be quite safe; after this the climb is on sound clean rock.
First ascent R.D. Harold, J.T. Craig August 1959.
(Please note this is not Red Wall climb)
February 1961
18.2.61
Moel Bengaw Gully. First ascent.
This is the obvious gully seen to the east of the hut (Nant y Merddwyn). It is best to cross the stream south of the gully mouth and traverse in to the gully via steep grassy slopes.
The gully contains several rock pitches usually wet and greasy and also several trees of various types and shapes. In fact the vegetation assists one to overcome one or two tricky moves (nothing desperate) and is therefore a welcome addition.
The standard of the climb is about Moderate or Difficult or there again Moderately Difficult or perhaps Very Severe, maybe Ex Severe or Easy somewhere on that borderline.
The writer does not wish this climb to be taken too seriously.
First Ascent R.D. Harold 18.2.61
May 1961
May 13/14
On Martin Trotman's meet instead of arising at 2.30am and indulging in desperate walks 4 members of the club, seeing the sun and warm rocks, decided to get their ropes out of mothballs and renew there death daring attempts on the rocks. Saturday afternoon in brilliant sunshine J.Drummond & Albert Sheppard leading through and J.Craig & Chris Shannon shakily fought their way up Milestone Ordinary . This they managed without anyone peeling off & they were so excited at this that after 10 mins for Jack & Albert's pipefuls they went hotfoot to another desperate. 1st Pinnacle Rib. Using the same ropes. Getting over this they descended by the North Ridge. A wonderful day. Sylvia Goodwin and John Bonner performed acrobatics on Spiral Stairs & The Wrinkle.
Sunday was rather a dull cloudy day when John Bonner arose at 6.20 am and everyone else at 7.30. We eventually arrived at Craig yr Ysfa where J.Craig Sylvia Goodwin - John Bonner & Chris Shannon climbed Amphitheatre Buttress which the whole party thoroughly enjoyed. Excellent climbing weekend.
21st May
14 Peaks (we've done you, you little buggers) J.B./M.O.
June 1961
June 3rd
Being excellent at the 'all round' aspect of the mountaineering sport, a very select party of three & dog joined three eminent ornithologists from Colwyn Bay. Starting outside the window of this room, and ending up on the Great Orme we formed a formidable list of birds and nests seen. Tits, chaffinches, hedge sparrows, thrushes, greenfinches, wrens, long-tailed tit, red-starts, pied fly- catcher, wrens, greater-spotted woodpecker, nut-hatch, white-throat, chiff-chaff, willow warbler, lesser white- throat, partridge, guillimots, razor bills, kittywakes, kestrel, house-martins, swallows, fulmars, cormorants, herring gulls. A garden warbler's and tree-creeper's nests had come to sticky ends, and we were lucky to see a large school of porpoises going close to the Orme.
An excellent day (26 nests)
J.F.
July 1961
July 29th 1961
First Ascent INVITATION 185ft Carreg Altrem-Tyn y Cwm
Standard Difficult (1st Pitch possibly V.D.)
Carreg Altrem is situated 1 mile outside of Dolwyddelan on the left of the cwm. The climb starts below the central tower on the left section of the cliff.
Directly below the central tower is a peculiar detached pillar offering possible lines of ascent. Start to the left of this.
Climb the jammed block and more easily left to a harder move into the bottom of the obvious crack. Ascend the crack strenuously to a fine stance and belay at the top of the pinnacle.
Move right up and over very steep but well provided blocks to and awkward landing on the grass ledge. Stance & belay.
Ascend delightfully to a small stance and belay (it is advisable to use this stance if climbing on 120ft rope or less).
Superb slab climbing following the lower edge of the slab where the exposure is remarkable. Cross the gap in the edge of the slab and finish up the steep slab beyond.
First Ascent 29th July R.D.Harold, F.A.Smith, M.Oldaker.
July 30th 1961
Then to summit of Mynydd Mawr and down ridge and great scree shoot. A most enjoyable weekend which once again proves the value of an early rise and a resolute start!!!!
Left 23rd & 24th
T & A Cardwell (with John) paid NyM a visit probably for the last time. Such happy memories, perhaps the future hut will be as happy.
T.L.C.
October 1961
The 7th Oct 1961
A very good day on Siabod after a visit to Tan y Bwlch. J Drummond led the march with Peachy. Craig acting the goat as usual. T Sands and N Forrester, D Peel and J Cooke out as well. It is hoped we will go to Cader Idris on Sunday.
J Cooke.
Meet 27/28 Oct
After a somewhat hesitant start, due of course to the weather, the party assembled at the foot of the notorious Lockwoods Chimney, ready to do battle. Having done the route so often Fred Smith led off with amazing speed, only to sit at the top laughing at the efforts of those who followed (rotten devil).
The party then decided on a visit to Chris at P y G for the usual pint (lemonade) and then ??? round to P y P prior to a visit to the Tyryn Slabs. The route chosen was Slab and Arete, or something like that, anyway it was enjoyable and we had managed to avoid the rain throughout the day so we left satisfied with our efforts.
The party consisted of Joel D, F Smith, E Shannon & R Harold
|